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Does anyone more in-the-know than I am have any idea when the new Basius pads might be available at retail? The website has a speculative date of last May. 
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Aug 4, 2015 08:08
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Bit more happy with him now, though the armour is still sloppy as hell. I haven't touched it up yet, just highlighted the metallics and loincloth/holster. The dark purple is a nod to the old Rogue Trader Alpha Legion scheme. Just some final edge highlights and a bit of shading to do, then onto the base.   
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Aug 4, 2015 10:35
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:Bit more happy with him now, though the armour is still sloppy as hell. I haven't touched it up yet, just highlighted the metallics and loincloth/holster. The purple really works well with the shifting green/blue of the armour, as does the silver. Like I said earlier, you've done a great job and should be proud of that model.
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Aug 4, 2015 11:08
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Fearless posted:The purple really works well with the shifting green/blue of the armour, as does the silver. Like I said earlier, you've done a great job and should be proud of that model. My main problem is that I have and can do better. I'm generally quite critical of my own work. Still, I've learned some things, which is the main point.
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Aug 4, 2015 11:47
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JerryLee posted:Does anyone more in-the-know than I am have any idea when the new Basius pads might be available at retail? The website has a speculative date of last May. No idea. I could've sworn they were going to be sold through Mantic too, but I didn't see any on their site.
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Aug 4, 2015 14:51
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I'm painting some Zombicide hero pieces so that I can take a break from Infinity and Trollbloods. The models are actually pretty nice and detailed for monopose, soft plastic, boardgame pieces.  
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Aug 4, 2015 16:02
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Slimnoid posted:No idea. I could've sworn they were going to be sold through Mantic too, but I didn't see any on their site. People in the TG Kickstarter thread are talking about just now receiving theirs. I would imagine that they're just waiting to get them out to backers before selling them retail.
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Aug 4, 2015 16:31
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I hosed up and posted this in the wrong thread originally, but here is one of three Reaper minis (for the Frostgrave game) that I oathed in the Oath Thread: It's the "Bertrand, Monk" figure from Reaper. I also decided to challenge myself and limit my palette for the figure to just browns/earth tones. Pleased with how he's turning out so far, especially considering I did this all pretty much in one night (Army Painter Strong Tone and Soft Tone inks are literally talent in a bottle). I just have to do some metallic bits and he's pretty much good to go. Not quite as pleased with how the paintjob on the base (from Dragon Forge) turned out, but I figure I can just re-do that until I'm happy with it.
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Aug 4, 2015 20:18
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Back to the primer chat at the top of the page, do you all use different primer for resin models than you do for plastic?
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Aug 4, 2015 21:27
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Lord Thrust posted:Back to the primer chat at the top of the page, do you all use different primer for resin models than you do for plastic? I use automotive spray, and it's worked fine for me on metals, plastics, and resins. As far as I'm aware there's no primer especially for resin. The only thing that comes to mind is that bonesium doesn't like primer.
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Aug 4, 2015 21:39
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I use Armory and/or Rustoleum primer on both plastics and resin and they work fine.
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Aug 4, 2015 21:44
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ijyt posted:I use automotive spray, and it's worked fine for me on metals, plastics, and resins. As far as I'm aware there's no primer especially for resin. Montana Gold works great on bonesium
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Aug 4, 2015 21:53
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What's a good source for Silflor Grass Tufts in the US?
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Aug 4, 2015 23:33
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signalnoise posted:Montana Gold works great on bonesium As does Krylon. Really though, for bones, if you give it a thin layer of paint over it first you'll be fine. I typically hit it with one layer of airbrushed VMA white before I do anything else with it.
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Aug 4, 2015 23:39
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MasterSlowPoke posted:What's a good source for Silflor Grass Tufts in the US? http://www.sceneryexpress.com/SilflorMiniNatur/departments/1040/
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Aug 5, 2015 00:10
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Getting ready to start painting my first modełs just waiting on some last supplies to come in next week but I'm kind of nervous all I'll do is make a horrible mess and I won't be able to assemble and paint these things. Is it common to be nervous about doing this stuff for the first time or am I just a big dumb baby? I don't want my stuff to be fodder for the horrible painting thread 
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Aug 5, 2015 01:40
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Dr. VooDoo posted:Getting ready to start painting my first modełs just waiting on some last supplies to come in next week but I'm kind of nervous all I'll do is make a horrible mess and I won't be able to assemble and paint these things. Is it common to be nervous about doing this stuff for the first time or am I just a big dumb baby? I don't want my stuff to be fodder for the horrible painting thread This is the first thing I painted for the last thread:  Don't sweat it
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Aug 5, 2015 01:44
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SRM posted:Sorry buddy, once I went scorched brown I could never go back. @~'~,~~ Gone But Not Forgotten ~~,~'~,~@ My last pot of that dried out so I started modifying Dark Flesh. One of the last remaining batches of Calthan Brown shall soon turn to a useless polymer lump. 
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Aug 5, 2015 02:46
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First Cygnar I've painted. I've done a bunch of Menoth in the past, so painting with blue is a new thing. Tried to keep it simple and fast, so I could paint up a bunch for a journeyman.
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Aug 5, 2015 02:55
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GreenMarine posted:First Cygnar I've painted. Consider doing some edge highlighting on the gold with silver, and perhaps some purple washes on the deepest recesses too. Really helps it look more rich and less flat.
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Aug 5, 2015 03:25
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I'll try the purple in a small area to see what the results look like. Or maybe on a little solo first.
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Aug 5, 2015 03:29
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$11 flat rate shipping!
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Aug 5, 2015 05:04
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MasterSlowPoke posted:$11 flat rate shipping! Outrage is not the reaction I'd expect when you're clearly buying up to 500 dollars worth of stuff Seriously though if you want silflor, you buy from a railroad shop. You could always just buy the army painter kits though, it's the same poo poo.
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Aug 5, 2015 05:30
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Post 9-11 User posted:@~'~,~~ psst...Reaper Master Series Muddy Brown. 
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Aug 5, 2015 05:49
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just getting back into painting again, was never any good to begin with tear me apart, help me get better!  
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Aug 5, 2015 06:07
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ijyt posted:Tried it on a bit that was hidden and the little void it leaves is almost worse than the dust. It's fine from a distance, not like this was going to be a competition entry or anything. Try sanding with fine grade sandpaper - it's going to be a pretty big hole to fill afterwards because you have to get a gentle gradient. You could try painting the hole as a chip in the ice? Highlight up the edges and add some cracks. Dust is a real pain...
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Aug 5, 2015 09:59
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bencreateddisco posted:just getting back into painting again, was never any good to begin with Mmm. The eyes. Eyes on the first model are a bit off. That's mostly a matter of practice and technique. Personally, I usually paint eyes inside out. I'll start with some walnut brown, paint some off-white around it to shape pupils, then paint some black around the whites to shape the eyes, and finally paint skin tone around the black leaving just a very thin line behind. That's also what's missing from the second model. Needs something to help define the eye from the face. You've got the eyes pretty well lined in the first model, but there's not a strong enough transition in the second model. There are a few places (like the first guy's face) where it looks like the paint went on a bit thick. Needs a bit of highlighting too. Second guy, give his face a wash to help bring out his features, with some highlighting on the cheeks and nose. There's some sloppiness on second dude's cape. Practice layering to help get nice, smooth transitions between different colors. Mind, they both look good for someone who's been out of the game a while. But you asked, and those are things that look like they could use a little fixing.
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Aug 5, 2015 10:38
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Z the IVth posted:Try sanding with fine grade sandpaper - it's going to be a pretty big hole to fill afterwards because you have to get a gentle gradient. It disappeared during the drybrushing, but that's a pretty good idea that'll I'll remember for later.
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Aug 5, 2015 10:41
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Just gonna leave my new Croak Raiders here, very happy with how they turned out. Painting these guys taught me a lot about using Shades and Washes (the skin is just 2 yellow washes followed by 2 orange shades).
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Aug 5, 2015 12:04
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Dr. VooDoo posted:Getting ready to start painting my first modełs just waiting on some last supplies to come in next week but I'm kind of nervous all I'll do is make a horrible mess and I won't be able to assemble and paint these things. Is it common to be nervous about doing this stuff for the first time or am I just a big dumb baby? I don't want my stuff to be fodder for the horrible painting thread Generally the stuff that ends up in the Bad Painting Thread is stuff listed as PRO PAINTED A++++ on ebay when it is anything but, or the stuff that's so bad it trancends reason and becomes something sublime. It's pretty unlikely that anyone's going to post your very first miniature in there, we all started somewhere. Just take your time, thin your paints and play with some washes, you'll be fine. Plus if you really gently caress it up, you can just strip the paint off and try again!
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Aug 5, 2015 12:07
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Thinking of replacing my crappy knockoff airbrushes with a proper one. I'm looking at the SP-35 vs the Revolution - is the Iwata worth the 300% price increase over the Sparmax? Or is there a superior alternative to both? I'm looking to do some zenithal highlighting /pre and post shading for larger models.
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Aug 5, 2015 13:18
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Z the IVth posted:Thinking of replacing my crappy knockoff airbrushes with a proper one. I'm looking at the SP-35 vs the Revolution - is the Iwata worth the 300% price increase over the Sparmax? Or is there a superior alternative to both? I've reviewed the SP-35, it's a decent airbrush and much better than an eBay clone. If you will be using the airbrush a LOT for fine detail work and need super smooth layers the expensive brushes like the Revolution or the Badger Krome or Sotar are another option. The SP-35 will be a good general purpose brush though, but it won't spray as wide as the Patriot because of the smaller needle size, so if you're doing a lot of terrain or many vehicles look at getting a larger needle/nozzle set or the Patriot.
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Aug 5, 2015 14:20
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krushgroove posted:I've reviewed the SP-35, it's a decent airbrush and much better than an eBay clone. If you will be using the airbrush a LOT for fine detail work and need super smooth layers the expensive brushes like the Revolution or the Badger Krome or Sotar are another option. The SP-35 will be a good general purpose brush though, but it won't spray as wide as the Patriot because of the smaller needle size, so if you're doing a lot of terrain or many vehicles look at getting a larger needle/nozzle set or the Patriot. Thanks! General purpose is all I need. The eBay ones all packed up on me and I want something reliable.
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Aug 5, 2015 14:27
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Luebbi posted:Just gonna leave my new Croak Raiders here, very happy with how they turned out. Painting these guys taught me a lot about using Shades and Washes (the skin is just 2 yellow washes followed by 2 orange shades). I really like these. They remind me of poison dart frogs. 
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Aug 5, 2015 15:10
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JackMann posted:Mmm. The eyes. Eyes on the first model are a bit off. That's mostly a matter of practice and technique. Personally, I usually paint eyes inside out. I'll start with some walnut brown, paint some off-white around it to shape pupils, then paint some black around the whites to shape the eyes, and finally paint skin tone around the black leaving just a very thin line behind. That's also what's missing from the second model. Needs something to help define the eye from the face. You've got the eyes pretty well lined in the first model, but there's not a strong enough transition in the second model. There are a few places (like the first guy's face) where it looks like the paint went on a bit thick. Needs a bit of highlighting too. Second guy, give his face a wash to help bring out his features, with some highlighting on the cheeks and nose. There's some sloppiness on second dude's cape. Practice layering to help get nice, smooth transitions between different colors. I'll post my next couple models and keep that in mind, much appreciated!
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Aug 5, 2015 16:58
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Chance II posted:I'm painting some Zombicide hero pieces so that I can take a break from Infinity and Trollbloods. The models are actually pretty nice and detailed for monopose, soft plastic, boardgame pieces. Duuuude - you need to refocus your camera and post better shots, because, from what I can see, those are some really nicely painted minis!
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Aug 5, 2015 20:48
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Does anyone have recommendations on a good mobile painting setup? As in something you can just fairly quickly pack up and deploy in a park, or just some other location with some of your paints, brushes, and other basic necessities. Also, anyone have good recommendations for tiered paint racks for reaper bottles for a desk?
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Aug 5, 2015 21:10
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nesbit37 posted:Also, anyone have good recommendations for tiered paint racks for reaper bottles for a desk? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004W8XLAM/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=5ZRU6P99TCXH&coliid=I3JGSE9ISA381V http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004VN31JO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=5ZRU6P99TCXH&coliid=I142S8ZXPYKH73 Nail polish racks are fairly cheap and fit Reaper/Vallejo bottles perfectly.
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Aug 5, 2015 21:44
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Slimnoid posted:http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004W8XLAM/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=5ZRU6P99TCXH&coliid=I3JGSE9ISA381V Perfect, thanks.
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Aug 5, 2015 21:47
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Advance Deployment also makes a customizable shelf that's pretty affordable if you need to accommodate larger paint pots. http://store.advanceddeployment.com/mdf-paint-rack/
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Aug 5, 2015 21:55
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