|
Yond Cassius posted:I got a bonus at work a little while ago. Rather than do anything even vaguely responsible with it, I found and ordered a 6x7 projector. give this thing to me. give it to me, i want it.
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2015 20:43
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 28, 2024 08:48 |
|
|
what the gently caress posted:Thanks for the bellows tip. I was under the impression that chinese bellows were a bit hit-and-miss as far as quality goes...? I think the one thing I've learnt through this whole learning process with alternative processes is to not jump too quickly from one thing to another, or try to do too many things at once. And you've always got to think, what am I going to gain from learning that new process, rather than thinking, that looks neat, I want to do it. With wet-plate you've got a finished image in your hands and you just need to hang/frame it and you're done. And its very appealing, and I might go back to it if we have more room next year. Now daguerreotypes, there is a difficult and potentially life threatening way to make an image, but the results sure are spectacular.
|
|
#
?
Aug 5, 2015 03:54
|
|
|
Spedman posted:you've always got to think, what am I going to gain from learning that new process, rather than thinking, that looks neat, I want to do it. Thanks for crushing my dreams lol
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2015 00:17
|
|
|
Yond Cassius posted:I got a bonus at work a little while ago. Rather than do anything even vaguely responsible with it, I found and ordered a 6x7 projector. dear god where did you find one? can you post pics?
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2015 00:36
|
|
|
what the gently caress posted:Thanks for crushing my dreams lol It is a hobby, so if it makes you happy, do it! But as a boss of mine says, six weeks in the lab can save you an hour in the library.
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2015 01:13
|
|
|
Spedman posted:It is a hobby, so if it makes you happy, do it! But as a boss of mine says, six weeks in the lab can save you an hour in the library. This is very true. Or even a workshop. I got all three of the 'main' manuals for WPC, Jacobson, Osterman's and Coffer's (+DVD's) manuals... still even reading through those I can see massively how a workshop would have saved me so much trouble. Even read Silver Sunbeam from loving cover to cover (that was a headache!) Nothing puts you in your place like jumping face first into a whole new world of poo poo you know nothing about :P With the money I blew on making my first few plates and screwing them up I could have bought a plane ticket and tuition fee for a class at GSS. Oh well 
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2015 09:36
|
|
|
dorkasaurus_rex posted:give this thing to me. give it to me, i want it. If you're ever in Seattle I'll be happy to take it out somewhere and share! I'm ordering a proper display screen (70" on a side!) soon to go with it. I might be convinced to drag it down to Portland, too, if the MF Crew down there is interested. Ezekiel_980 posted:dear god where did you find one? can you post pics? They're around if you look hard enough! A few companies have made them over the years, and they tend to be well-cared-for. I bought a gently-used Goetschmann, which cost a little more than expected (seller only took wire transfers), but the weak Euro helped make up for it. I'll try to post pictures when I get home tonight. If you're interested in one, there's an old Pro Cabin on eBay, and a Viewlex too. Unfortunately the Cabins (rebranded by Mamiya) have great optics, but a reputation for not-great shielding. Supposedly they will fade your slides in just a few hours of display, so be careful of how much you use them - they're for quick-ish slide shows, not exhibitions. The really irritating thing is that MF slide mounts are nearly out of production, so being able to use the projector is nearly as much of a time investment as getting the thing to begin with. Cassius Belli fucked around with this message at 17:02 on Aug 6, 2015 |
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2015 17:00
|
|
|
Yond Cassius posted:a gently-used Goetschmann I can't be the only one who chuckled at this. Sorry, carry on.
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2015 17:07
|
|
|
Yond Cassius posted:If you're ever in Seattle I'll be happy to take it out somewhere and share! I'm ordering a proper display screen (70" on a side!) soon to go with it. If you are ever having a Seattle medium format party let me know, I'll bring beer.
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2015 20:08
|
|
|
http://thephotopalace.blogspot.com.au/2015/08/introducing-clera-1st-transparent-camera.html
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2015 04:37
|
|
|
Let's take pictures of an IMAX-level projector with a crappy cell phone camera:  35mm Tri-X roll for scale. Cassius Belli fucked around with this message at 17:37 on Aug 7, 2015 |
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2015 17:28
|
|
|
Scanning a bunch of 6x7 Portra 400. Love how it looks at night. Untitled by Drew Davis, on Flickr
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2015 23:13
|
|
|
So local shop ran a deal to rent a Hasselblad 501cm for 8 bucks. It's like I didn't have a choice. I rented that + a polaroid film back for next weekend. It's only gonna shoot a 6x6 square on the FP100c, correct? I'll probably want to shoot a roll of Portra 400 as well. Thinking of doing some window light portraits with it, any tips tricks or whatever?
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2015 01:47
|
|
|
iSheep posted:So local shop ran a deal to rent a Hasselblad 501cm for 8 bucks. It's like I didn't have a choice. Don't wind the body then attach an unwound lens (or vice versa) or you will jam the fucker, otherwise hassies are pretty bombproof.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2015 02:32
|
|
|
 The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier by alkanphel, on Flickr
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2015 17:10
|
|
|
 I was going so well when I had that last batch of chemicals.. I knew how it all worked, then I went ahead and started loving around with chemistry in developers and collodion now I'm running into all sorts of bullshit. Good news is I've figured out ONE of my major problems (development and even pouring of developer) so good news is I have a 'helper tray' on the way from Lund. In any case... I wish I could go back to how it was before. I've rented a cheap little studio with a couple of other photographers so I've got a nice space to work in with a nice little storage/dark room but to be perfectly honest I much preferred it when it was just me and my mobile darkroom in my van out in the bush taking photos of loving trees and poo poo. Anyway, here's a lovely 4x5" black glass ambrotype, under 5x 65w 5500k CFL's. 16 second exposure @ f/11, 300mm. I'm not generally a fan of still life stuff but it was late at night and I wanted to go into the studio and get some practice under my belt and none of my friends were sober enough willing to sit under that kind of light wattage. Weird that working in a studio is harder than working outdoors for me, I guess that's just what I'm used to. Spedman; how weird is it that with this collodion (the same formula that Ellie Y. uses) litereally as soon as I've poured off the drain corner back into the bottle I pretty much have to put the plate straight into the silver bath before it's too dried... I used to have to wait at least a good 30 seconds... but for some reason the air must be super dry here at the moment because it just dried almost as soon as it hits the glass. Anyway, I'm determined to keep at it. I'm sure I'll get there eventually just ironing out me being a spastic. Also, a fellow Aussie LF shooter made me a 4x5 reducing back for my 8x10 camera out of a busted old camera of his which is frigging awesome. So happy with that 
Sludge Tank fucked around with this message at 16:29 on Aug 14, 2015 |
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2015 16:05
|
|
|
I ended up making my own helper tray out of some perspex I had for making plates with, anything bigger than 4x5 needs a tray I think. And instead of making a reducing back, and made a plate insert for my plate holder, basically a perspex frame that fits the 8x10 holder which the smaller plate can just drop into. Works pretty well. I think the collodion from Ellie has plenty of alcohol in it, she uses the Coffer formula rather than the Scully & Osterman / Q ones. I always just went straight from the pour to the silver bath, mainly because I was rushing, but the finger prints would always come out immediately on the poured plate. I had some days were literally nothing would work properly, super low contrast and streaks everywhere. Then other with pretty much the same chemicals, everything was fine. Its the definition of a fickle process.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2015 08:00
|
|
|
Yeah well interestingly enough I used the Coffer's Old Reliable with alcohol in place of the ether (Ellie's formula, which she recommends) and when I was shooting those other plates outdoors I had to wait a good half a minute before putting it in the bath. Using the same recipe the last few days I literally pour the plate, drain the corner and throw it in the silver bath. WHen I had that outdoor technique downpat all I had to sort out was my development technique... now I'm back to square one.... what gives? here's one I did today (debut appearance by fellow dorkroomer... excuse the focus... i didn't stress enough the 'hold still' instruction)... I hosed up trying to rub some of the scum/veiling off (you can see the tear in the collodion in the top right corner) which is something I never encountered with previous chemistry... no idea where thats coming from. I'm trying not to ask the bastards on facebook because they just say "you're a noob... go back to the manuals..." which I've read back to front a thousand loving times and still run into problems they don't quite answer for me.  I dunno, it's such a loving fickle process!!! But so addictive.... even when you gently caress it up you're still like "goddamn, I made that" BTW I suck hard at DIY so making anything out of perspex is out of the question for me. You're blessed you have those skills! I ended up just filling the developer tray with developer and dunking the plate, which chews through so much developer but the only way I could get semi-consistent development.... meh! Sorry for rambling... I don't really have anyone else to bounce off with all of this. Sludge Tank fucked around with this message at 14:41 on Aug 15, 2015 |
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2015 14:22
|
|
|
 Clementi by alkanphel, on Flickr
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2015 01:19
|
|
|
what the gently caress posted:Yeah well interestingly enough I used the Coffer's Old Reliable with alcohol in place of the ether (Ellie's formula, which she recommends) and when I was shooting those other plates outdoors I had to wait a good half a minute before putting it in the bath. Using the same recipe the last few days I literally pour the plate, drain the corner and throw it in the silver bath. WHen I had that outdoor technique downpat all I had to sort out was my development technique... now I'm back to square one.... what gives? Making stuff with Perspex is easy, it's like working with really stiff cardboard. Are you fixing the plates long enough to get rid of all the unexposed, cruddy collodion of the edges? I found that was a regular issue for me with Old Reliable. No worries about the wet plate chat, happy to help with my very limited experience.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2015 15:00
|
|
|
Spedman posted:Making stuff with Perspex is easy, it's like working with really stiff cardboard. The cruddy poo poo appears when I put the plate in the fixer. So I'm lead to believe it's scum coming from the developer (which was fresh like literally made that day) or something in the silver bath, but I filter, sun and upgrade my silver bath after every session (generally 10 or so plates in a session?) which as far as I've read is a bad track record as some guys can get many more plates out of a bath in a day. Perhaps it's the sodium nitrate which I've just added to the developer. it's definitely not 'embedded' in the collodion, and is a surface scum, which I've only just encountered since adding nitric acid and sodium nitrate to the dev chemical. But I can see the difference from both in terms of definition and contrast, but if they're causing these problems then maybe I should just gently caress them off...?
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2015 15:42
|
|
|
 img111 by Benjamin Gibb, on Flickr img108 by Benjamin Gibb, on Flickr
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2015 20:16
|
|
|
what the gently caress posted:The cruddy poo poo appears when I put the plate in the fixer. So I'm lead to believe it's scum coming from the developer (which was fresh like literally made that day) or something in the silver bath, but I filter, sun and upgrade my silver bath after every session (generally 10 or so plates in a session?) which as far as I've read is a bad track record as some guys can get many more plates out of a bath in a day. I'd get rid of the sodium nitrate, I don't think I've seen that in any developer recipe, or even as an alternative additive. As the developer is iron based, the sodium nitrate could be reacting with that to produce some kind of precipitate wiki posted:Sodium nitrate can be combined with iron hydroxide to make a synthetic resin Just go back to the standard Iron Sulfate/Alcohol/Acetic Acid developer recipe. Spedman fucked around with this message at 00:32 on Aug 17, 2015 |
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2015 00:26
|
|
|
True. Well Coffer and Quinn both say in the manuals and Coffer makes a pretty strong point of it on his dvd, that adding a gram of sodium nitrate to the developer (as well as the nitric acid) brightens and cools the image (for positives/ambrotypes not negatives) which i have definitely noticed but ok yeah i'll drop it and let u know. Cheers
Sludge Tank fucked around with this message at 02:50 on Aug 17, 2015 |
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2015 02:23
|
|
|
Here's a bunch of Japanese dudes shooting 20x24 to make Collotypes, I think the last place in the world that makes them: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qq9fe7M7BWA https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Collotype
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2015 08:26
|
|
|
Spedman posted:Here's a bunch of Japanese dudes shooting 20x24 to make Collotypes, I think the last place in the world that makes them: Jesus that is awesome. Serious commitment. Reminds me of this Takashi fellow over there as well who made a Daguerreotype collage in Fukishima https://vimeo.com/131992281
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2015 09:58
|
|
|
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2015 13:51
|
|
|
Spedman posted:I'd get rid of the sodium nitrate, I don't think I've seen that in any developer recipe, or even as an alternative additive. As the developer is iron based, the sodium nitrate could be reacting with that to produce some kind of precipitate Well that's totally embarrassing. I just found out I was supposed to use potassium nitrate, not sodium nitrate. Jesus christ. How am I still alive. I am a classic candidate for the Darwinian award for photography. I will blow myself up one of these days. Sludge Tank fucked around with this message at 16:28 on Aug 17, 2015 |
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2015 16:23
|
|
|
How are you guys taking these photos? Did you build a special back for a LF camera to accept glass plates?
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2015 16:27
|
|
|
BANME.sh posted:How are you guys taking these photos? Did you build a special back for a LF camera to accept glass plates? Chamonix makes specific wet plate holders that are basically normal gutted LF sheet film holders with a tin brace that has a 'spring' that sits behind the plate and holds it firm in the frame of the holder.. You can make them yourself also from regular sheet film holders but I suck at DIY. The chamonix holders accept either tin plates or glass to a maximum thickness of 3mm I think. Tin plates are just more susceptible to "bowing" from the pressure of the springs behind them and may need a glass plate support behind them to prevent this bowing. Also period-era wet plate cameras are built with their own unique plate holders specific for that camera, like what Alex Timmermans uses. http://www.chamonixviewcamera.com/wetplateholders.html Chamonix are super quality built and despite being soaked in silver nitrate, which is relatively corrosive to organic material, my holders (4x5 and 8x10) are loving ace and I would much prefer having a pro-built one than a hand made one. The big difference being that with DIY ones you put a wire-brace in the corners and you can get almost absolute total coverage of the plate despite the black corner marks from the wire brace (see Craig Tuffin's work), the chamonix holders because of the frame create a black "border" where the sensitized collodion has not been exposed. The border of the chamonix holders could possibly present peeling issues due to contact with the fragile collodion, but subbing the edges with albumen (egg white) stops this issue and since using egg-whites I've not had any peeling issues. tl;dr no modification necessary to any LF camera, just accept the risk of staining your camera with unlikely silver nitrate dripping/spillage. I'm a clumsy fucker and my 8x10 is a wooden camera and I haven't had any silver drip onto that yet. But any silver stains will greatly ruin your chance of a profitable resale. E; Would it be worth stating an alt process thread? IDK I don''t think there are enough dorkroomers doing it but would be nice to have a dedicated thread so we're not polluting the LF/MF thread with my bullshit. Sludge Tank fucked around with this message at 18:18 on Aug 17, 2015 |
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2015 16:29
|
|
|
That's rad. I gotta get me a chamonix one day.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2015 19:37
|
|
|
what the gently caress posted:E; Would it be worth stating an alt process thread? IDK I don''t think there are enough dorkroomers doing it but would be nice to have a dedicated thread so we're not polluting the LF/MF thread with my bullshit. Dodge This: Wet Printing and Alternative Processes
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2015 20:38
|
|
|
Yeah that's printing not necessarily actual alt processes. Never mind. I guess I''ll just keep spamming this thread with my downward spiral into biological intoxication with heavy metals. lel
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2015 22:12
|
|
|
what the gently caress posted:Yeah that's printing not necessarily actual alt processes. Never mind. I guess I''ll just keep spamming this thread with my downward spiral into biological intoxication with heavy metals. Warn us when Daguerreotype starts sounding like a good idea.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2015 22:57
|
|
|
I've been enjoying being a fly on the wall for your alt process discussions, fwiw.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2015 00:00
|
|
|
what the gently caress posted:Yeah that's printing not necessarily actual alt processes. Never mind. I guess I''ll just keep spamming this thread with my downward spiral into biological intoxication with heavy metals. IMO that's already an alt process printing since you're playing with chemicals and all that. Plus the wet plate is kinda like a final print and not a negative that you work off.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2015 00:21
|
|
|
Well that's the thing, I was planning on making wet plate negs for alt printing, when I get the time and space to do it again. Wet plate is kind of in the grey area of making direct positives and negatives for printing.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2015 00:40
|
|
|
i just bought a pentax 67. im enjoying my greater ability to crop.  cables by Phillip Chicola, on Flickr
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2015 03:02
|
|
|
Tony Two Bapes posted:i just bought a pentax 67. im enjoying my greater ability to crop. Welcome to the club. Buy a handle.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2015 06:11
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 28, 2024 08:48 |
|
|
Spedman posted:Well that's the thing, I was planning on making wet plate negs for alt printing, when I get the time and space to do it again. Wet plate is kind of in the grey area of making direct positives and negatives for printing. I seriously have so much respect for people that do this. Watching people like Borut Peterlin go from start to finish with plate to print is loving agonising and must take so much patience and discipline.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2015 06:50
|
|