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Z3n posted:Clogged main jet, sounds like. Especially if poo poo was leaking into there. So pretty much get some canned air and kerosene and clean me a carburetor system? Woo, fun times.
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Apr 28, 2015 01:54
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First week with the new bike and I am in love. The thing just is fun. I was concerned the power might overwhelming coming from a 78 400 CB (20 or so hp) but the power bands on the v-twin are predictable and fairly forgiving, considering it can still go crazy fast 0-60. Am looking at replacing the seat or getting an airhawk though, even after an hour my butts getting numb from the stock gel seat. Also I absolutely love the looks of this thing in person. This naked style still looks so modern even though its just a 2004. Everyone of my non bike friends thinks its brand new.I do love the fact for ~3500 CDN I got a vehicle that goes faster than my coworkers 50 grand Camaro SS 0-60. Hah 
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Apr 29, 2015 17:20
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ArbitraryTA posted:Mkay, replaced the fuel line and it has much better pickup right until it hits that 4000 RPM mark. I can actually physically feel the power loss once it hits that mark, like someone just took part of the torque away and I shift forward a bit. If I lay the throttle on it still does the same thing where I can hear in the exhaust it sounds like it's getting too much air for how much fuel is coming in. My SV1000 was doing this when I got it. I believe that the fuel pump damaged itself pulling against the fuel filter the PO clogged up. I ended up needing a new fuel pump, which fixed the issue. I also cleaned out the tank, changed the plugs, changed the filter, sea foamed the intake, etc. It wasn't fixed until I replaced the fuel pump. I think it wasn't able to keep up with heavy loads at higher rpm.
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May 1, 2015 00:03
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Day Man posted:My SV1000 was doing this when I got it. I believe that the fuel pump damaged itself pulling against the fuel filter the PO clogged up. I ended up needing a new fuel pump, which fixed the issue. I also cleaned out the tank, changed the plugs, changed the filter, sea foamed the intake, etc. It wasn't fixed until I replaced the fuel pump. I think it wasn't able to keep up with heavy loads at higher rpm. Out of curiosity what year SV1000 was that?
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May 3, 2015 13:35
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ArbitraryTA posted:Out of curiosity what year SV1000 was that? 2003, it's the naked version only sold in the states for one year.
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May 3, 2015 15:06
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Day Man posted:2003, it's the naked version only sold in the states for one year. Ah ok. This is a 2001, with the carbureted engine. The fuel pump only comes into play once the fuel gets below a certain level and wouldn't be causing this issue as far as I'm aware. It's pretty much the last thing I'm looking at. The way the carbed bike is designed it sucks a lot of the fuel directly into the carb bowls vacuum style but part of the tank is below the carbs, so the fuel pump is there when it's needed.
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May 3, 2015 15:58
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M. Night Skymall posted:My rearsets were a bit hosed up when I got the bike from the previous owner, and I haven't done them any favors Time to do a review of these I guess. They lasted about a year, but were kind of poo poo the whole time with fitment issues and a lot of the bolts feeling pretty lovely. I did get around 8-10k miles on them including one minor tip over before the shift rod sheared, rendering the bike unrideable (The shift rod sheared like 6 months after the tip over, not sure they were related) and not really easily repaired without some serious bodging/fabrication. Going with the SVRacingParts rearsets as a guy next to me who seemed to be unhealthily obsessed with his SV650 was running them at the track and seemed to like them. Still quite a bit cheaper than Vortex/Woodcraft but more than the Danmotos. I have clipons with a 2 inch rise from the same guy and I've been pretty happy with them so I'm hoping the rearsets are similar. They looked pretty solid on the other guy's bike.
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May 17, 2015 04:57
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. Think I'm at the stage where OEM parts are going to be at least as much as replacing both rearsets with aftermarket parts, not like OEM is cheap. I replaced my gear shift assembly with a cheap one from e-bay once already and was a bit underwhelmed with the quality, though I'm pretty happy with my e-bay levers so far.
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anyone have recommendation on SV650S seats? my butt gets sore after about 2 hours or riding and I intended to take this bike on longer trips.
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May 30, 2015 20:19
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Dr. Jackal posted:anyone have recommendation on SV650S seats? my butt gets sore after about 2 hours or riding and I intended to take this bike on longer trips. I got a Sargent seat and it's been pretty good to me. When I got the bike the seat was a little torn up and I replaced it pretty much immediately so I can't really do a direct comparison to stock, but I rode it 300-400 miles a day for a couple weeks with an 800 mile day to finish it off and I managed. Also had plenty of 8+ hour weekend day rides outside that trip. If you're going to try that I'd get a bead seat to put on top of whatever seat you end up with, they're awesome. Even with the Sargent/bead seat there was an adjustment process, but 2-3 hours in a day shouldn't be a problem. That said it's not really going to turn the bike into a sport tourer or something in terms of comfort.
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May 30, 2015 20:32
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Dr. Jackal posted:anyone have recommendation on SV650S seats? my butt gets sore after about 2 hours or riding and I intended to take this bike on longer trips. I got a Sargent and it was like night and day. I couldn't recommend one enough. As well as being comfortable for as long as I wanted to be on the bike it also made it so my crotch didn't slam into the tank on decel.
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May 30, 2015 21:18
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Anyone ever replace their front MC with a radial one for a gsxr swap SV? Mine is the stock SV one, it's kinda meh. I have a hose setup where both of the hoses connect with two separate banjos at the MC itself. I'm not sure if that will work on a radial, or how to reconfigure my brake light switch.
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May 31, 2015 16:45
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I'd be skeptical whether a radial m/c would really make a difference in brake feel in and of itself. Unless the piston is different sized? But I wouldn't think you'd need to go radial to get that. Anyway I'm saying don't buy some expensive aftermarket thing when maybe all you want is a different sized piston m/c. But don't you have a GSXR front end? Does it really not feel good? I would expect any gixxer components to feel fantastic out of the box unless they're like hella old, a gixxer is a top level sport bike after all. Maybe it's got a sticky caliper piston or needs bleeding? If you do swap m/cs I think the double banjo setup at the m/c won't be an issue, just reuse the double width banjo bolt. And if the brake switch is a regular clicky type thing on both m/cs then I think you should just be able to plug it in no problem.
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Jun 3, 2015 03:55
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GSXR master cylinders were recalled a couple of years ago... get one of the new ones. Or be cool, get R6 front calipers, TWF spacers, and an R6 front master.
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Jun 3, 2015 04:30
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I've got a track day coming up this weekend and just flushed and bled my front brakes, again. The best they felt was right after I cleaned the pistons last time, but they're adequate for now. Nowhere near as firm as my brother's R6 as the guy above me, mentioned. Come to think of it, we have a spare set of R6 forks lying around. Any idea how much it would cost to do the swap and pick up an R6 wheel, brakes, mc, etc.? Edit: I thought I had read about someone doing this swap on svrider, but maybe I'm confused and it's not nearly as easy as a gsxr front end. MetaJew fucked around with this message at 05:27 on Jun 3, 2015 |
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Jun 3, 2015 05:22
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I heard from a bunch of people more experienced than me that having an axial mc and radial gsxr calipers means you may as well not have the radial calipers at all. My friend just replaced her stock sv one with a radial r1 mc and says it's tons better. I dunno!
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Jun 3, 2015 11:14
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The Brammo/MV/newer ducati monsters all have axial MCs with radial calipers, and they're totally fine on the brakes, even under track use. I'd address the following items in order: Bleed quality (no bubbles!), brake fluid quality (Motul RBF at the minimum, Castrol SRF for track/race use), pad life/quality/appropriateness for use (don't use track pads on the street if you want the brakes to work well over time), MC, lines (as long as the ones on there aren't dry rotted to gently caress rubber ones), calipers. This assumes that the system is otherwise in decent shape (no seized pistons, not using a recalled GSX-R MC...). Nearly everyone who's like "Radial MC is SO MUCH BETTER" just drained a bunch of brake fluid that looked like coffee out of their MC. Ya, no poo poo it's better. Z3n fucked around with this message at 18:30 on Jun 3, 2015 |
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Jun 3, 2015 18:26
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Gotcha. I was actually just about to install my speed bleeders and refresh the fluid, so I wondered if there was some other while-I'm-in-there upgrade I could do.
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Jun 4, 2015 00:23
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M42 posted:Gotcha. I was actually just about to install my speed bleeders and refresh the fluid, so I wondered if there was some other while-I'm-in-there upgrade I could do. Start with the fluid, see how it goes from there - if it's still marginal, get on dat Brembo RCS. (Will need a different double stacked bleeder bolt for the Brembo - they use fine threads, not coarse ones).
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Jun 4, 2015 21:58
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Mitch Williams from CMRA had this to say about the SV650 brakes when I was having all of my issues (OEM front end/calipers)quote:If you haven’t replaced your master cylinder yet you should do so. Find a late model R6 or R1 master on ebay. They are brembo radial masters and they sell for about $60 – $80. Huge difference between those and the junk stock master. So I would do that, but no personal experience with the results.
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Jun 5, 2015 19:52
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xaarman posted:Mitch Williams from CMRA had this to say about the SV650 brakes when I was having all of my issues (OEM front end/calipers) Worth adding to that that there's a large difference between "OEM Brembo" and "Aftermarket Brembo" - the OEM stuff is built to a mass production budget and QC, whereas the aftermarket stuff (RCS 19 systems) are much higher quality. The SV master cylinders aren't bad by design, it's just that the manufacturing tolerances swing pretty widely, so some are pretty good and some are really crap. Same for the GSX-R MCs, just that they also have the treatment issues that led to the recall on top of that.
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Jun 5, 2015 21:35
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How often do you all change the oil in your SVs? I had it done by a shop in January and I've put on 1600-1700 miles since then so I thought it was time for an oil change. Now I've just done an internet search for what kind of oil to use and found this thread on SVRider: http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28135 in which they say that Suzuki recommends a 3500 mile oil change which seems on the high side to me.
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Jun 8, 2015 17:05
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3500 is what the user manual says, on that, how often do y'all re-lube your chains? it says clean and lube 600 miles, but that seems very short.
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Jun 10, 2015 10:09
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I lube mine every 400ish (every weekend basically) and clean it every 1k. But it rains a ton here and I've been doing some offroading on dusty gravel and mud too.
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Jun 10, 2015 11:14
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Speaking of chains, mine is getting pretty old and worn down and I want to try and replace it myself and put some new sprockets in. I think you guys like going -1 tooth on the front sprocket? I'd sure like to try that. I've already ordered a chain breaking/riveting kit, but what else do I need? Any brands/types? What chain length? Where do Canadians order their parts from? Bike is a naked 07.
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Jun 14, 2015 17:19
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With how wheelie happy the sv is stock, I can't imagine how going -1 would be. Definitely do that, because it's not like you are really going to use that 100+ top end.
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Jun 15, 2015 04:53
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Coydog posted:With how wheelie happy the sv is stock, I can't imagine how going -1 would be. Definitely do that, because it's not like you are really going to use that 100+ top end. Mine's -1/+2 and it still tops out a little under 140 indicated. It does make being on the highway a tad more annoying though because your RPMs end up high enough to be pretty buzzy over 70 mph.
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Jun 15, 2015 05:28
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140 indicated 105 actual...
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Jun 15, 2015 05:29
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I asked in the general thread but maybe someone here has had this issue too. My rear brake pad pin is still stuck. I tried penetrating oil and got a manual impact driver but it still won't budge. My problem with the impact driver is I kinda have to come in at an angle since the exhaust is in the way and I figure that's not helping it's effectiveness. Do I need to just off the exhaust or am I missing something? It's a bit frustrating since i just want to change the pads
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Jun 22, 2015 01:38
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Yeah, pull the exhaust to start with. Also just order a replacement caliper on ebay.
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Jun 22, 2015 02:23
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Can anyone give me a recommendation on a good chain/lock combo? Something that would be impossible to cut with a bolt cutter, and not outrageously expensive. I imagine whatever chain/lock I buy would need a chain carrier? My 2008 does not really have room under the seat to store anything that will be thick enough, I think. I live in NYC and I know a few people that have had their bikes stolen because someone drove up with a van and two people lifted their bikes into the back. Obviously my bike is not that expensive, but I'd rather not loose it if I can help.
MasterOSkillio fucked around with this message at 19:00 on Aug 4, 2015 |
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Aug 4, 2015 18:57
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NYC sucks for bikes (I live here too). Desirable bikes are snatched up pretty efficiently here, although desirable is usually tilted towards the kind of bikes twat thieves want to ride and not dollar value (I had my WRX with a bigass disc lock stolen off the street during the day, but in my neighborhood there are SVs, a GS, and even an RSV4 on the street regularly with no locks for months on end that go untouched). The ADVrider NYC thread has a guys-in-a-van-nabbed-my-bike post what seems like every couple of weeks. You will need a bigass chain and lock and a cover ideally. Any chain worth a drat won't fit anywhere but some kind of real luggage. I have tried wrapping them all sorts of ways around the subframe and they always vibrate loose in the wrong way. They are also really heavy and cumbersome. Also something to chain it to that is sturdy, won't piss anyone off, and won't net you a ticket. I have seen a bike chained to a pole on an uncrowded sidewalk on a queens (the land where no laws are enforced) side street way up against a building with a ticket stuffed in the gas cap. The real answer is a garage and it goes without saying you better have comprehensive insurance.
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Aug 5, 2015 00:21
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In a wold of cargo vans, battery powered angle grinders, and hydraulic cutters, locks are merely a deterrent. Securing it inside of a locking structure, or a ground anchor are your best bets, otherwise this is why you have insurance. I own this chain and it's about as good as it gets. http://www.kryptonitelock.com/content/kryt-us/en/products/product-information/current-key/999492.html Be sure to loop it through the frame, try to avoid leaving a lot of slack, and avoid using the wheels as chaining points since those can be removed fairly easily. Edit: since it's not an high end bike or a supersport, your goal really only has to be this: be harder to steal than another bike. Thieves either want bikes that can be parted out efficiently and profitably, or something easy to steal. `Nemesis fucked around with this message at 03:04 on Aug 7, 2015 |
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Aug 7, 2015 03:01
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`Nemesis posted:
I agree, I found the kryptonite 999492 chain for $100 so i grabbed that. Generally my bike is in a garage, but when I go somewhere and it's parked on the street hopefully this will make it a much less appealing target. Especially considering that it has a few dings on it, and doesn't look like the perfect bike. Quick question, sometimes my bike doesn't want to shift into first gear, it's as if when you push on the gear lever it doesn't feel like it makes contact with anything in the transmission, it's kinda like just dead space, or it will grind a bit going into first. That happens only when I am moving slowly, coming to a stop. Should I look at adjusting my clutch cable? I don't think the clutch isn't disengaging all the way, because it never does that shifting into any other gears or would this be more like something where I need to adjust the gear shift rod? I am not sure where I should start looking.
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Aug 7, 2015 16:33
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The transmission relies on rotation on both sides of it in order to get the gear dogs to engage. If you're basically at/nearly at a stop, the bike will often fail to mesh the dogs correctly, so the solution is to downshift to first while you're moving more quickly.
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Aug 7, 2015 18:12
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Z3n posted:The transmission relies on rotation on both sides of it in order to get the gear dogs to engage. If you're basically at/nearly at a stop, the bike will often fail to mesh the dogs correctly, so the solution is to downshift to first while you're moving more quickly. Fair enough, what about the times it refuses to shift at all? Where I go to shift it's kinda like there's a dead space? I should have mentioned that often does happen after I'm stopped at a light for a while.
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Aug 7, 2015 19:28
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Normal, rock the bike back/forth a little while pressing down on the shift lever to get it done.
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Aug 7, 2015 19:43
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M42 posted:Normal, rock the bike back/forth a little while pressing down on the shift lever to get it done. Cool, Thanks!!!
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Aug 7, 2015 21:05
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M42 posted:Normal, rock the bike back/forth a little while pressing down on the shift lever to get it done.
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Aug 8, 2015 01:37
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M42 posted:Anyone ever replace their front MC with a radial one for a gsxr swap SV? Mine is the stock SV one, it's kinda meh. I have a hose setup where both of the hoses connect with two separate banjos at the MC itself. I'm not sure if that will work on a radial, or how to reconfigure my brake light switch. did you switch to braided lines? I put braids on my bike and it improved the braking quit a bit.
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Aug 8, 2015 05:39
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`Nemesis posted:In a wold of cargo vans, battery powered angle grinders, and hydraulic cutters, locks are merely a deterrent. Securing it inside of a locking structure, or a ground anchor are your best bets, otherwise this is why you have insurance. I use the old tried method of 'out of sight, out of mind'. I keep my bike in a garage which is a god send and a pain in the arse. Especially when I want to go riding. Apartment complex still gives out the garage door openers the size of coke cans.
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Aug 8, 2015 05:42
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