|
nsaP posted:Please record yourself trying to do this.
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2015 15:27
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 05:29 |
|
|
What would you* call that kind of wheel design you get with single sided swingarms, where the cast spokes and the bit that bolts to the hub are entirely off to one side? As on eg the vfr800 vtec *by which I mean someone with a better grasp on technical terminology than me
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2015 21:22
|
|
|
An SSA wheel.
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2015 23:27
|
|
|
I'm having charging system issues. I had the battery run flat, and after charging it, it soon after happened again. I tested charging voltage and found that it never exceeded 13v,and the stator voltage was less than half of spec on 2 phases and 10% on the third. This seems to suggest a damaged stator, so I replaced it with an aftermarket unit. Now I get good stator output voltage but charging voltage doesn't get above 12.2v. So, I replaced the rectifier/regulator, and... The same. I've tested stator resistance and it's equal on all phases. Except, no resistance to ground.  Did I get a doa stator? Or have I just hosed up the installation? Edit: if anyone can explain to me how this is possible that'd be great. Surely if each lead is shorted to ground, there'd be no resistance between them too? But the meter shows 0.5 ohm lead to lead. tzam fucked around with this message at 10:52 on Aug 7, 2015 |
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2015 09:10
|
|
|
stator sounds fine to me. (they're generally delta wound) I'd be looking for a hosed connector or wire somewhere between the rectifier and battery. E: Shunt rectifiers also are kind of wonky with voltage handling if its cheap. Fets are a bit more consistent. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 14:17 on Aug 7, 2015 |
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2015 14:09
|
|
|
Huh. So my brake fluid (just what's in my reservoirs, as far as I know) has gotten pretty dark again, even though I changed it just a few months ago. I installed speed bleeders at the same time, and I used a fresh bottle of brake fluid. Afterwards I checked for leaks for a few weeks and couldn't find anything. Is this normal? I've ridden in a shitton of rain since then.
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2015 21:25
|
|
|
Your MC might be deteriorating, or you have a bad piston seal, or you had extremely dirty brake fluid to start with, or you brake like a lunatic all the time, or your MC reservoir cap isn't sealing.
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2015 21:39
|
|
|
You're probably just threshold-braking like Rossi.
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2015 21:41
|
|
|
Any way to differentiate between mc/reservoir/caliper seals deteriorating, or is it just a trial and error thing? 
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2015 21:45
|
|
|
You could try taking the pads out and calipers off, then having a look at the pistons to see if any are weeping or stuck (if they're stuck the seal might be buggered and releasing rubber dust stuff into the fluid). If it were me, I'd just flush it out with some fresh fluid (you got speed bleeders for a reason right) and see if it turns black again and how long that takes. You could also try clamping off the line(s) leading to your MC and squeezing the lever - it should be absolutely rock hard, if it slowly creeps toward the bar you have a torn MC seal.
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2015 21:47
|
|
|
captainOrbital posted:You're probably just threshold-braking like Rossi. Why would you say that? I'm sure there isn't anybody here who would make a claim like that!
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2015 22:02
|
|
|
My 98 Honda CBR 600 didn't have enough juice to turn over this morning after sitting for a few days. The battery is new this season, so that shouldn't be the issue. I know that I replaced the regulator on this bike before, but that was years ago, so I'm thinking it may have gone again. I tested it by putting my multimeter on the 200 ohms setting and testing these three yellow wires:  I checked A&B, B&C, A&C. On each pair, the numbers cycled through randomly, just as they do when you touch the two leads together. Does that mean my regulator is dead again, or did I not test it properly?
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2015 22:29
|
|
|
The Wonder Weapon posted:My 98 Honda CBR 600 didn't have enough juice to turn over this morning after sitting for a few days. Did you test the battery too? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2015 22:31
|
|
|
Koruthaiolos posted:Why would you say that? I'm sure there isn't anybody here who would make a claim like that! Did I miss something? The Wonder Weapon posted:My 98 Honda CBR 600 didn't have enough juice to turn over this morning after sitting for a few days. Try jump/push starting the bike. After it's running, stick your multimeter on DC voltage and measure how much voltage there is across the battery terminals.
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2015 22:32
|
|
|
builds character posted:Did you test the battery too? I didn't test the battery yet mostly because it's brand new, and jumping it is a pain, so I was hoping to rule out the R/R first. Is it possible to figure that out before testing the battery? My regulator doesn't look like the one in the video. When I unplug it, this is all I end up with:  There are no floating plugs as seen in the video. Connecting any two pins in the regulator with the multimeter I either get no change (continues to display 1) or the rolling numbers.
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2015 22:51
|
|
|
The Wonder Weapon posted:My 98 Honda CBR 600 didn't have enough juice to turn over this morning after sitting for a few days. follow this guide and you'll figure it out, also put your meter on a lower range if it has it. https://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2015 23:24
|
|
|
Well, I'm sitting here sweaty and tired after trying everything to get this oil filter off of my bike. I've tried the metal plier grips (not enough clearance), the metal strap wrench (this one worked last time), and just twisting it off with my hands. The metal strap wrench has mashed up the filter where it crimps down, and inserting a screwdriver to fill the gap just smashes it more. I really don't want to try the screwdriver smash method but that's about all I have left. I'm concerned that a rubber strap wrench won't work at this point as the filter is too mashed to have full contact.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2015 07:04
|
|
|
Just ram a screw driver through it. Your threads will be fine unless you do something completely spastic and it'll take you a total of 30 seconds to get it off. Also get a K&N to replace it, they have a socket attachment on the end.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2015 14:17
|
|
|
If you do the screwdriver jam method make sure you get it all the way thru and you are careful when you start torquing it. Obviously stab it in a way that you can get the most turn out of it as well. Once you break the seal it will be fine, but if you stab the wrong spot in the filter it can just tear it instead of turning.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2015 14:31
|
|
|
I did this once and to be safe i took it to the dealer because i was working in my living room and if i tore up the filter without it coming out i'd have been out of options and need the bike to get to work. He said it came right out using something like this: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Oil-Filter-Wrenches-Three-Jaw/_/R-SER773288_0405868291 Unlike those stupid can wrenches, it grips harder the more pressure you apply. I guess you could also try using your strap wrench near the end, where the end of the filter may give it a bit more rigidity. It may work similarly. I think this design spreads the force around a bit better so it's less likely to buckle. I'd try that before ripping it open. In my case it happened as I was trying to swap the stock filter out for a K&N because getting the filter off was always a bitch. So lesson learned, but problem ultimately solved.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2015 14:47
|
|
|
Radbot posted:Well, I'm sitting here sweaty and tired after trying everything to get this oil filter off of my bike. I've tried the metal plier grips (not enough clearance), the metal strap wrench (this one worked last time), and just twisting it off with my hands. The metal strap wrench has mashed up the filter where it crimps down, and inserting a screwdriver to fill the gap just smashes it more. I really don't want to try the screwdriver smash method but that's about all I have left. Those all suck for motorcycle oil filters. You want an end cap wrench and the leverage provided by a beefy ratchet w/ extension if necessary. You have to find whatever size snaps on snug--not one that kinda sorta fits, but one that's drat near bespoke. Take a similar filter to the store with you if necessary to try them on for size. This will work if you haven't already munged the flats.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2015 15:35
|
|
|
I've tried the three prong gripper thing and I destroyed it in my hands, though it being Harbor Freight likely had something to do with it. The flats are already hosed as the can is pretty crushed up, so I think the screwdriver method is the only one left. By the way, gently caress most of Harbor Freight. I'm not that strong and have destroyed four separate hand tools while working with them, poo poo just shearing off, Chinese shitmetal bending, etc. edit: Whelp, drove a screwdriver through and bent the gently caress out of the screwdriver, zero give from the filter. I'm hosed, I have no idea what to do at this point. Really trying not to get to tearing it completely apart and hammering at the base plate. Radbot fucked around with this message at 16:43 on Aug 8, 2015 |
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2015 15:56
|
|
|
Dunno if this is what you're talking about, but aside from a very snug (as mentioned) end cap wrench, I like these: They usually work well enough at most angles to get a filter off, and if you can't get it off easily, sinch them down, crush the filter with them and then turn it off, sort of like the screwdriver aided method.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2015 17:06
|
|
|
I've tried those, but the clearance on my bike is terrible - the coolant take basically wraps around the oil filter. However, SUCCESS! I punched a screwdriver all the way through and couldn't get it to turn for the life of me. I PB Blasted the mating surface (I know, probably not a great idea), cranked it like a motherfucker, and then... pop. It budged. Drove the screwdriver all the way through again and I loving got it. Thanks so loving much guys, now instead of contemplating suicide on this beautiful weekend, I'll get to enjoy the first weekend Mt. Evans is open. I doubt I would have had the balls to do the screwdriver thing if y'all hadn't encouraged me.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2015 17:45
|
|
|
Kill all POs that don't use an oil filter with a bolt on the end. When I first changed the oil on my versys I had to screwdriver it too, always use K&N with the bolt on the end after that.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2015 18:35
|
|
|
I always smear some fresh oil on the filter gasket before installing, and only tighten it until 'snug' and never have any of the problems other people seem to have with getting filters off. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2015 01:16
|
|
|
HAMAS HATE BOAT posted:I did this once and to be safe i took it to the dealer because i was working in my living room and if i tore up the filter without it coming out i'd have been out of options and need the bike to get to work. I have one of these, don't like it too much, it just slips around and never really starts gripping.
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2015 15:16
|
|
|
The problem with oil filters is usually that the PO or a shop tightened it to "gently caress you newtonmeters" instead of merely hand tight.
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2015 15:49
|
|
|
Radbot posted:the clearance on my bike is terrible Often the case, which makes ratchet & extension & (end cap | integrated nut) a good choice. The nylon/plastic units are generally superior to the all metal ones in terms of grip and durability, as the latter tend to be made from recycled party favors. Something to consider for next time.
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2015 18:24
|
|
|
Okay, so what the hell is this on my exhaust? (click for bigger) The kind of nut thing at the top is - I think - for attaching some sort of extra probe (there's a similar thing next to the lambda probes higher up the pipes), but the spring thing and the bracket thing it's in are a mystery. My first suspicion was that it was an air inlet (it's just upstream of the cat and I know some engines inject air into the rich exhaust when cold to heat the cat up quicker) but there doesn't seem to be any sort of mechanism for that to happen, it seems to be entirely passive. e: The Ducati site mentions an exhaust pipe valve but like I say this is (or at least appears to be) entirely passice
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2015 23:01
|
|
|
It's an EXUP valve thinger. It blocks part of the exhaust at low RPM to increase grunt. There will be a cable attached to it operated by an actuator somewhere in the bowels of the bike.
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2015 23:05
|
|
|
90% of triumph daytona owners get rid of that thing, or disable it in the ECU fully open. Dunno what kind of gains you'd get, but maybe it's worth looking into?
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2015 02:15
|
|
|
After valve adjustment on the ninja 250, my valves are REALLY LOUD. I mean, they were loud before, and apparently tight, and I guess the valves on these are loud anyway, but I'm VERY afraid that I may have messed something up. It seems to idle ok, but I didn't let it warm up. I want to go ride it, but I don't want to grenade it. In the adjustments, I was very careful to use the right measurements, and lean towards looser than tighter, but always within range. I triple checked everything before buttoning it up, and followed the directions to the letter. I'm just filled with self doubt now. Of course, I started it without fairings, a helmet, or earplugs, so maybe that's why. Am I good to ride it?
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2015 02:30
|
|
|
If its in range, go ride the fucker! they'll quieten up.
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2015 02:33
|
|
|
Thank you so much! Time to go enjoy what I've missed for two weeks.
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2015 02:39
|
|
|
Coydog posted:After valve adjustment on the ninja 250, my valves are REALLY LOUD. I mean, they were loud before, and apparently tight, and I guess the valves on these are loud anyway, but I'm VERY afraid that I may have messed something up.
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2015 03:17
|
|
|
I have two-stroke questions. I recently acquired a lovely Old Bike (I'll post more when I have pictures) and it has a reed valve from the factory but no expansion chamber exhaust. If I were to get an expansion chamber made up for it, would I need to re-jet the carb? It's a 100cc air cooled single with a cable operated carb (as in the plunger is directly connected to the throttle, no vacuum fuckery).
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2015 04:05
|
|
|
I'm so paranoid after a deep repair like that, which was preceded by poor running, that it's really reassuring to hear that. There IS a slight surging or maybe hole at about 7k rpm. If I cruise there, which is often with the gearing, there is a barely perceptible surge, and maybe a hesitation to increase rpm (which could be in my head). I need to research that more. Right now I'm happy I did it successfully and did not blow it up. Slavvy posted:I have two-stroke questions. Is it red? Are the prophesies coming to pass? I really want to see you make an expansion chamber with the pressure washer method. Coydog fucked around with this message at 04:10 on Aug 10, 2015 |
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2015 04:08
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:It's an EXUP valve thinger. It blocks part of the exhaust at low RPM to increase grunt. There will be a cable attached to it operated by an actuator somewhere in the bowels of the bike. Couldn't find a cable, it's apparently bolted to the side of the engine - possibly the cable runs in that mounting? Also if that's closed at low RPM I can't imagine how much more antisocial the fucker would be without it, so I think I'll leave it alone... for now...
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2015 07:18
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 05:29 |
|
|
Coydog posted:I'm so paranoid after a deep repair like that, which was preceded by poor running, that it's really reassuring to hear that. There IS a slight surging or maybe hole at about 7k rpm. If I cruise there, which is often with the gearing, there is a barely perceptible surge, and maybe a hesitation to increase rpm (which could be in my head). I need to research that more. It's blue thank gently caress. I've thought about it but it occurred to me that if I could weld well enough to get that result, and had a welder, I'd just do it properly out of steel rings.
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2015 08:55
|
|