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Moola posted:More bases! HOW did you do this? It looks awesome!
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Aug 9, 2015 23:03
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I also appreciate the layer of chocolate fondant between the chocolate sponge. The top layer really does look good, and not in a culinary sense.
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Aug 9, 2015 23:05
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Moola posted:More bases! What kind of herbs did you use for the loam? It looks fantastic, and I want to steal your basing recipe. (no, i'm not making food puns)
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Aug 9, 2015 23:22
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Cheers duders the soil/tree bark/small stones are simply various different blends of tea granules. Earl Grey, PG tips etc. The tea bags were boiled first, then the bags were drained and cut open when dry; the granules were then broken apart by hand and baked in the oven for about 10 minutes to dry them out and prevent any trapped moisture creating mold in the future. Finally the baked granules were left out in the hot summer days to further dry them out and remove the smell The grass is a combination of GW green flock, and the leafy bits are a mixture of finely ground basil and not ground up bits of parsley. You need to air the parsley and basil outside a bit to remove the smell, but the PVA glue will also remove a lot of it Soil mixture goes on the base first, then small dabs of the grass are clumped on top. Base itself was painted GW mournfang brown.
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Aug 9, 2015 23:51
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ijyt posted:I also appreciate the layer of chocolate fondant between the chocolate sponge. Ive never used liquid greenstuff, do you reckon this would make the base rim flatter???
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Aug 9, 2015 23:53
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Moola posted:Cheers duders Seal it with varnish. Without any UV protection it will fade really quickly to a sort of tan shade. I know this because I make all my own basing materials and flocks out of natural materials and I often intentionally let them age in order to get the sort of dry southern swamp grass look I want. Here's an example of some speed painted Mordheim ghouls hanging out on a piece of terrain from my table.  That grass was like Dark Angels Green when it was applied, for reference, and faded to this shade. I had some of it pre faded laying around so I used it on the ghouls to get a good match.
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Aug 10, 2015 00:15
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Ok cheers I have this:  Will it do the trick???
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Aug 10, 2015 00:31
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It'll work, but note that Satin is a step in-between Matte and Semi-Gloss, so it'll have a bit of a shine to it.
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Aug 10, 2015 00:36
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I will do it on a test base!
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Aug 10, 2015 00:50
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I'm about to paint some Reaper Bones and since theyve been used in unpainted fashion theyre covered in finger oil. Can i use Acetone on Bones Vinyl or should i use just ethanol?
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Aug 10, 2015 01:51
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occamsnailfile posted:It does depend on the brand, cadmium is a bit toxic and also more expensive (we need our batteries okay) so you'll see a lot of "cadmium yellow (hue)" on non-miniature paints to indicate they're matching the hue but not using cadmium specifically. I've never had issue with a cadmium-based yellow paint, is why I was confused.
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Aug 10, 2015 02:45
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Kommando posted:I'm about to paint some Reaper Bones and since theyve been used in unpainted fashion theyre covered in finger oil. Just use dish soap.
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Aug 10, 2015 02:58
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Indolent Bastard posted:Just use dish soap. But i have all these solvents by virtue of working in a lab, that dont leave residue.
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Aug 10, 2015 03:35
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Kommando posted:But i have all these solvents by virtue of working in a lab, that dont leave residue. Just use dish soap.
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Aug 10, 2015 04:50
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It's pretty amateur-ish, but I'll live with it.
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Aug 10, 2015 05:39
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Moola posted:Cheers duders fuckin limeys
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Aug 10, 2015 05:55
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Moola posted:Ive never used liquid greenstuff, do you reckon this would make the base rim flatter??? Wood filler and fine grain sand paper might work better, personally I think LGS is poo poo.
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Aug 10, 2015 06:52
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El Estrago Bonito posted:Just use dish soap. Oh, ok.
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Aug 10, 2015 06:57
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Kommando posted:Oh, ok. Just use dish soap. But if you felt like cutting off some spare bits of Bonesium (the bases are usually removed by most painters anyway) and testing them in various solvents, I'd certainly be interested in the results!
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Aug 10, 2015 08:21
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ijyt posted:Wood filler and fine grain sand paper might work better, personally I think LGS is poo poo. Eh I might just leave it, it kinda looks like a cross section of a layer of soil below the base anyway which is cool
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Aug 10, 2015 12:15
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Star Man posted:It's pretty amateur-ish, but I'll live with it. This is great and you should be proud.
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Aug 10, 2015 12:50
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Moola posted:Eh I might just leave it, it kinda looks like a cross section of a layer of soil below the base anyway which is cool I would, I thought that was a really cool detail. Don't ever admit it wasn't on purpose
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Aug 10, 2015 13:03
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Put a couple of skulls and bones in the layers.
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Aug 10, 2015 13:17
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Weird question, but I'm considering getting a uniform-colour spray to do lots of soviets quickish. I've never done that before, though; will I need to spray-prime everything first, or is a base uniform spray going to do fine enough for that job on it's own?
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Aug 10, 2015 19:46
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If you buy actual OD Green camo spray paint from a milsurp supplier, it'd work perfectly fine on its own.
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Aug 10, 2015 19:53
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spectralent posted:Weird question, but I'm considering getting a uniform-colour spray to do lots of soviets quickish. I've never done that before, though; will I need to spray-prime everything first, or is a base uniform spray going to do fine enough for that job on it's own? You can likely skip the primer, but I tend to be a "belt and suspenders" person in this regard, and would apply primer then the base coat, but that might just be me.
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Aug 10, 2015 19:58
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Silhouette posted:If you buy actual OD Green camo spray paint from a milsurp supplier, it'd work perfectly fine on its own. It'd be the mustard/brownish uniform colour, but thanks.
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Aug 10, 2015 19:59
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How do you guys prevent the paint on stuff like rivets from fading and rubbing off within a few games?
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Aug 10, 2015 21:19
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DJ Dizzy posted:How do you guys prevent the paint on stuff like rivets from fading and rubbing off within a few games? Wash minis, good primer, varnish after painting, transport in something soft and packed so they don't bounce around. Should be enough.
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Aug 10, 2015 21:23
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spectralent posted:Weird question, but I'm considering getting a uniform-colour spray to do lots of soviets quickish. I've never done that before, though; will I need to spray-prime everything first, or is a base uniform spray going to do fine enough for that job on it's own? Depends. Army Painter sprays sometimes are great primers and are sometimes awful primers. Their Crystal Blue is a lovely color but a poo poo primer, so priming white is advisable beforehand. If you're going for a camo green or dark grey or whatever it probably won't be as much of an issue though.
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Aug 10, 2015 21:26
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Pierzak posted:Wash minis, good primer, varnish after painting, transport in something soft and packed so they don't bounce around. Should be enough. Varnishing is really scary to me, becausr either it A) ends up looking terrible, or B) ruins the paintjob.
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Aug 10, 2015 21:39
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Is there a secret to getting the yellow half of green stuff out of its plastic wrap? I got the GF9 stuff so each tube is in its own wrapping and the blue half's plastic rolls off just fine but the yellow has to be basically scrapped out of the center and then I still have to pick plastic out of it before I start the mixing.
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Aug 10, 2015 21:58
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rantmo posted:Is there a secret to getting the yellow half of green stuff out of its plastic wrap? I got the GF9 stuff so each tube is in its own wrapping and the blue half's plastic rolls off just fine but the yellow has to be basically scrapped out of the center and then I still have to pick plastic out of it before I start the mixing. Unfortunately, I don't think there's any way to stave off the sticking (rubbing some oil on the plastic wrap, etc.) without messing with the chemical integrity of the yellow half. I've got the same problem myself (same brand, even), and I've never had a batch where the yellow half didn't stick to the plastic wrap. Fortunately, I seem to have less of the blue hardener stuff than I thought I did, so either it's shrunk in the tube somehow or I've overused it (which is more likely).
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Aug 10, 2015 22:11
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DJ Dizzy posted:Varnishing is really scary to me, becausr either it A) ends up looking terrible, or B) ruins the paintjob. Don't be scared of varnish. It's your friend. If you have an airbrush.
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Aug 10, 2015 22:47
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BULBASAUR posted:Don't be scared of varnish. It's your friend. Testors Dullcote. 
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Aug 10, 2015 23:02
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Is Purity Seal good enough?
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Aug 10, 2015 23:37
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Any advice on paint color/combination of colors to get that peachish, pinkish, reddish desert stone look like you see in Bryce or Zion Canyons? (Reference: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f0/Delicate_arch_sunset.jpg)
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Aug 10, 2015 23:56
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head58 posted:Any advice on paint color/combination of colors to get that peachish, pinkish, reddish desert stone look like you see in Bryce or Zion Canyons? (Reference: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f0/Delicate_arch_sunset.jpg) Off the top of my head: mix all three primary colors together at different ratios. Go mostly for red and yellow and a little bit of blue to neutralize. Making browns like this is the best way to mix natural neutral colors.
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Aug 11, 2015 00:13
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BULBASAUR posted:Don't be scared of varnish. It's your friend. I thought the same. Until I tried it with Vallejo Gloss with a coat of matte. The matte won't matte and the process darkened the hell out of my models. I'm not pleased at with the results at all. I'm going to try Liquitex and Testor's next. Hoping I don't ruin more paintjobs.
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Aug 11, 2015 00:16
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Star Man posted:Off the top of my head: mix all three primary colors together at different ratios. Go mostly for red and yellow and a little bit of blue to neutralize. Making browns like this is the best way to mix natural neutral colors. I agree, and blue is the best way to get the top layer of darkened spots. It should probably be a bluish grey drybrush. Only other thought I have is to lay down the striations--the white and black layering under the red/orange first and then use thinned paint to get the color on top. Then drybrush the shaded spots on almost as a highlight. Use saturation for the lit side and desaturation for the shaded side.
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Aug 11, 2015 00:25
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