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One day I'm going to make an effort post on mixing colors and all the things I learned in color theory. You too will learn the horrors of trying match the color of cardboard.
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Aug 11, 2015 00:28
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Star Man posted:One day I'm going to make an effort post on mixing colors and all the things I learned in color theory. You too will learn the horrors of trying match the color of cardboard. Do it, that actually sounds fascinating
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Aug 11, 2015 00:53
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Looking to see if anyone knows of candidates for a particular sort of mini. I'm looking for something diminutive compared to a human-sized 28mm figure, posed to carry something. The feel I'm going for is an artifact bearer, a lot like the dude holding the Dark Angel Lion Helm (click here if you don't know what that looks like). I want it to look sort of like a magical or otherworldly servant, but I'm flexible on exactly what form that takes: little robed guy, minor devil, imp, ghost, goblin, etc. I'm also flexible on pose, so it can be standing or kneeling or whatever. The main thing is that it be posed ready to carry something or be already carrying something that can be easily and cleanly cut away.
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Aug 11, 2015 01:13
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DJ Dizzy posted:Is Purity Seal good enough?
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Aug 11, 2015 01:19
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JerryLee posted:Looking to see if anyone knows of candidates for a particular sort of mini. I'm looking for something diminutive compared to a human-sized 28mm figure, posed to carry something. The feel I'm going for is an artifact bearer, a lot like the dude holding the Dark Angel Lion Helm (click here if you don't know what that looks like). Extoller Soulward?
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Aug 11, 2015 01:21
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Seems to be human sized, but that's definitely a neat suggestion--I especially like that he's got a real ritual acolyte look going on. I'll keep that in the book for sure. 
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Aug 11, 2015 02:59
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JerryLee posted:Looking to see if anyone knows of candidates for a particular sort of mini. I'm looking for something diminutive compared to a human-sized 28mm figure, posed to carry something. The feel I'm going for is an artifact bearer, a lot like the dude holding the Dark Angel Lion Helm (click here if you don't know what that looks like). Night Goblin Standard Bearer? There seems to be a fair amount of pose variations. Googling it should bring up a few more different ones. 
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Aug 11, 2015 03:16
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Cross post from Oath Thread. As always feedback is welcome.The Sisko posted:Oath Complete!
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Aug 11, 2015 04:47
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Good skulls.
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Aug 11, 2015 05:01
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JerryLee posted:Looking to see if anyone knows of candidates for a particular sort of mini. I'm looking for something diminutive compared to a human-sized 28mm figure, posed to carry something. The feel I'm going for is an artifact bearer, a lot like the dude holding the Dark Angel Lion Helm (click here if you don't know what that looks like). There is a really cool old Chaos Sorcerer model called Stabb but he's kinda hard to find these days. Lot's of good options from Reaper, not so much in their actual Familiar packs: The Squire is one of my fave models: http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/Boneyard%20squire/sku-down/P14212B http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/P03438B/sku-down/P03438B http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/Bloodstone%20Gnomes/sku-down/14625 Other Options: http://www.miniaturemarket.com/hornm-08.html http://www.miniaturemarket.com/pip34022.html http://www.miniaturemarket.com/wyr20223.html http://www.miniaturemarket.com/wyr20421.html http://www.miniaturemarket.com/cishd1010.html http://www.miniaturemarket.com/cshd4004.html
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Aug 11, 2015 05:43
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I'm working on a Morkanuat at this very moment. Take a look!    Any suggestions on how I should paint the big body? I could keep alternating between the tiger and winter camo schemes or I could do something different for the torso. Couldn't decide!
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Aug 11, 2015 08:17
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I finally got a ton of tiny magnets in the mail and then my Dremel dies on me. My brief search indicates that that particular model was pretty lovely (8000), and sending it in gets it replaced with an 8220 model for $65. I just want to glue tiny magnets to arms and poo poo 
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Aug 11, 2015 09:44
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Iron Crowned posted:I finally got a ton of tiny magnets in the mail and then my Dremel dies on me. My brief search indicates that that particular model was pretty lovely (8000), and sending it in gets it replaced with an 8220 model for $65. If you're magnetizing plastic/resin models, just get a selection of drill bits, they're like £1+ each for 2mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm etc. from a DIY/hardware store and make the holes by twirling the bits with your fingers. If you have a pin vice with a 1mm bit use that for a pilot hole, it makes it easier by having a perfectly placed starting point. I use these pin vices for each drill bit, it makes it much easier to spin the bits: 
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Aug 11, 2015 10:25
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Iron Crowned posted:I finally got a ton of tiny magnets in the mail and then my Dremel dies on me. My brief search indicates that that particular model was pretty lovely (8000), and sending it in gets it replaced with an 8220 model for $65. Do not use a full size dremel to put magnets in poo poo. Don't. Use a pin vise or one of these. I have the actual Dremel version, and it is pretty good for this kind of stuff. Just don't throw 30000 RPM out of an heavy, unwieldy dremel at a miniature please.
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Aug 11, 2015 15:57
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signalnoise posted:Do not use a full size dremel to put magnets in poo poo. Don't. Use a pin vise or one of these. I have the actual Dremel version, and it is pretty good for this kind of stuff. Just don't throw 30000 RPM out of an heavy, unwieldy dremel at a miniature please. It's the only thing other than a drill that I have that'll hold a 1/8" bit
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Aug 11, 2015 16:05
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Iron Crowned posted:It's the only thing other than a drill that I have that'll hold a 1/8" bit A pin vise will do it just fine and you should own them anyway if you're doing any pinning.
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Aug 11, 2015 16:07
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signalnoise posted:A pin vise will do it just fine and you should own them anyway if you're doing any pinning. I have one, it's just about 2 sizes too small
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Aug 11, 2015 16:11
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Iron Crowned posted:I have one, it's just about 2 sizes too small http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EPX75U?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage This is 8 dollars
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Aug 11, 2015 16:14
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HardCoil posted:I agree. Once I get them under proper lighting I'll add some edge highlights and deepen the shadows a bit. Any further suggestions to make them pop? I'm thinking some of the red/white stripe design on the marine weapons maybe? For the knight and dread I should probably look intro weathering. Maybe a gentle application of a bright metallic highlight on the weapons, I see some hints of that on the gatling weapon on the Dreadknight. Some more red/white mural work could be done on the Knight and other stuff, I wouldn't go too strong with the edge highlights because these are bordering on the semi-realistic look that some SA painters have done recently. I'm trying to edge away (ho ho!) from hard edge highlighting myself, it's less flashy but more natural looking. I should take some photos of the full set of Dark Eldar stuff I've done, some photos that aren't crap. It's not easy getting that balance between something in miniature that pops when looked at from a distance, yet isn't muddy or dull, and looks good when photographed up close.
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Aug 11, 2015 17:49
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Bavius posted:
Take a red similar to the one on the arm and head camo, then dull it and darken it slightly with a bluish-grey mix so that you get something sort of looking like copper bottom primer for boats. http://www.vintageraceboatshop.com/images/OurVintageBoats/Babe/PB090002.JPG Then weather it with - chipping (black with white bit in middle) - scratching/scrapes (little bit of white rim with silver or tin in a streak or splotch) - rust (streaks of dusty reddish brown--might need to do like streaks of black wash and then watered down reddish brown to get the right feel). Basically red with weathering from the ww2 vehicle mini guys' playbook. TheCosmicMuffet fucked around with this message at 18:45 on Aug 11, 2015 |
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Aug 11, 2015 18:31
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This isn't directly miniatures related but it is tradgames related.. I have an idea for a tiny item and I need a prototype 3D printed but I have no idea where to start with that. How do I make a file that a 3D printing service can do for me and which service should I use? Low-detail here
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Aug 11, 2015 18:53
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signalnoise posted:This isn't directly miniatures related but it is tradgames related.. I have an idea for a tiny item and I need a prototype 3D printed but I have no idea where to start with that. How do I make a file that a 3D printing service can do for me and which service should I use? Low-detail here Have windows 10? Go to all apps, and the first one should be '3d builder'. Doesn't get much more basic than that, and has a handy button to send it off for 3d printing right in the app. Don't or won't or can't windows 10? https://www.blender.org/download/ Blender has been puttering along for a while as a possible free-to-use standard for 3d programs. It's not as [robust/dynamic/paradigm shifting/exoplantoidal] as 3d max or maya, but at a steep several thousand dollars discount, it can't be beat. It has tutorials: https://cgcookie.com/flow/introduction-to-blender/ Whither Canada? http://store.steampowered.com/app/253670 is a thing I bought. All things considered it does an ok job trying to make this 3d bullshit easier. If you're into drawing and have an idea of how to, for instance, sketch your poo poo in 3d and trace it, or want organic shapes but fundamentally lack the psychosis necessary to achieve it by dragging vertices into position for hours on end, then this purchase may be for you! It is not Thousands of dollars. In fact, it is a single hundred dollars. In american. In other currencies, there's literally no knowing. It would be impossible to find out is what I'm saying. Have fun! and above all, don't get lost in the blurry line between digital imagery and reality.
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Aug 11, 2015 19:04
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signalnoise posted:This isn't directly miniatures related but it is tradgames related.. I have an idea for a tiny item and I need a prototype 3D printed but I have no idea where to start with that. How do I make a file that a 3D printing service can do for me and which service should I use? Low-detail here Do you already have a file and need it saved corretly? Shapeways eats a LOT of different filetypes and isn't fuzzy about a lot of the details. It all depends on the 3D vendor and your software. I use Blender (which is free) for modelling and from there it's simple to export to printing. Post 9-11 User posted:Maybe a gentle application of a bright metallic highlight on the weapons, I see some hints of that on the gatling weapon on the Dreadknight. Some more red/white mural work could be done on the Knight and other stuff, I wouldn't go too strong with the edge highlights because these are bordering on the semi-realistic look that some SA painters have done recently. I'm trying to edge away (ho ho!) from hard edge highlighting myself, it's less flashy but more natural looking. I should take some photos of the full set of Dark Eldar stuff I've done, some photos that aren't crap. Yeah. I need to decide if I just want a tabletop force or keep trying to make them better. From the conversions I hope it's clear that I'm going for a more realistic style, so I guess I have to think about the edge hilghlights. The idea with the guns is to hit the metal parts with a satin varnish when they are done. Guns usually don't have metal parts showing bare metal unless they are really banged up. The psycannon barrels are drybrushed with metalichs though, I hope to make some kind of heat discolouring on them .
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Aug 11, 2015 19:38
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:Take a red similar to the one on the arm and head camo, then dull it and darken it slightly with a bluish-grey mix so that you get something sort of looking like copper bottom primer for boats. http://www.vintageraceboatshop.com/images/OurVintageBoats/Babe/PB090002.JPG I like this idea. I'll have to play around when I get back to my hobby desk and see if it'll work for the whole model, it's quite a bit of open space.
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Aug 11, 2015 22:14
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signalnoise posted:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EPX75U?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage I have ran to Lowe's since I don't want to wait for something to arrive. Couldn't find a pin vise, but I have a Kobalt handle with a 1/4 quick release socket and I found some 1/8 drill bits with a 1/4 shank that works perfectly for $4 
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Aug 11, 2015 22:29
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Woops forgot the topic Good find man
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Aug 11, 2015 23:48
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Floppychop posted:I thought the same. Testors brush on gloss and dull cote have never let me down. They are lovely chemicals though so wear a respirator. For cheap gloss get some pledge. I've switched to using it for all my layering needs since it's so darn cheap.
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Aug 12, 2015 00:21
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Finished Ghast, of the Morticians team, for Guild Ball. Better photos to come at the end of the week when I have painted Silence and Dirge.
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Aug 12, 2015 01:40
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And this is the upside to working at a fabrication shop, one piece of steel scrap for priming magnetized parts.
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Aug 12, 2015 12:36
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I've been indirectly inspired to get back into minis painting by the death of Warhammer Fantasy. We were going to get back into that but now we've decided to try out Osprey's Ronin game and run it kind of like a Mordheim campaign. That being said I dug out my GW paints from several years ago and...they're mostly dried up and dead. I liked GW Citadel paints a lot but don't really want to give them any more money and replace my paints only to see them dry out again if I go into another hiatus. Also, it seems like they changed the names on a lot of their paints, which sucks, because I depended on the names to help me pick out my paints, for reasons described below. What recommendations do others have, or specifically from people who migrated from Citadel paints to something else. I've been looking at the Privateer P3 paints. I'm colorblind so I'm intrigued by their references for dummies: http://privateerpress.com/files/P3_Paint_Mixing_Guide.pdf http://privateerpress.com/files/Formula%20P3%20Paint%20Reference%20Sheet.pdf Those seem to be a good idea for me because I can just look up what I need to use versus trying to judge with my broken eyes. Does anyone else have resources like this for their paints? Are there any good guides to match what colors I liked to use with Citadel paints to others? My only percieved drawback to P3 paints is it looks like I either have to buy them individually or in "faction" sets.
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Aug 12, 2015 17:39
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http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart I remember this being linked in here not long after GW renamed everything, and it's been my go-to for paint comparison since.
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Aug 12, 2015 19:09
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Gumdrop Larry posted:http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart http://www.scaleworld.info/#!page2/cjg9 I found this site a while ago that has the GW paints as well as covering other paint ranges if you want replacement or similar colours.
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Aug 12, 2015 19:39
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Cooked Auto posted:http://www.scaleworld.info/#!page2/cjg9 Scale 75 paints are great. The flesh tones set I really like as they dry very mat. The Unnatural Flesh set is also great. I also have the Inks set and plan on getting some more before my Fallen Frontiers pledge ships. http://www.miniwargaming.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1003936&sid=e8757a48ca4b6ddf9aadcba7a4976c77#p1003936 dr_ether fucked around with this message at 23:22 on Aug 12, 2015 |
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Aug 12, 2015 23:12
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 eyes are just not something i can do please help
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Aug 13, 2015 00:44
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The eyes should be the first thing you paint on the model, after laying down your skin basecoat. Paint the entire eye socket black or a dark grey, then put two small off-white dots on either side of where you want the pupil, but make sure to leave some of the initial black/grey around them as an outline. Clean up any messes and finish your dude.
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Aug 13, 2015 00:58
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 Bought myself a present. Most of the pieces are warped though, so I had to soak them in boiling water to unbend them. That method works GREAT for swords and spears, but not so much for giant landscape pieces. After soaking and bending several times, they're still not flush with the ground or other pieces, which I plan on having set together permanently. Any advice? I'm worried if I keep them in boiling water enough they'll melt and lose detail.
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Aug 13, 2015 01:04
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Finished Katalyst, for the Alchemist team in Guild Ball.
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Aug 13, 2015 01:08
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crime fighting hog posted:
You're the man for using god's own liquid gold paint (the best metallic paint) Sadly when it comes to resin sometimes you have no choice but to sand, fill the gaps with greenstuff, and then sand again.
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Aug 13, 2015 02:00
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Silhouette posted:The eyes should be the first thing you paint on the model, after laying down your skin basecoat. Paint the entire eye socket black or a dark grey, then put two small off-white dots on either side of where you want the pupil, but make sure to leave some of the initial black/grey around them as an outline. Clean up any messes and finish your dude. I just fill the eye sockets with wash so all my models look like Brock from Pokemon
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Aug 13, 2015 02:08
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Silhouette posted:The eyes should be the first thing you paint on the model, after laying down your skin basecoat. Paint the entire eye socket black or a dark grey, then put two small off-white dots on either side of where you want the pupil, but make sure to leave some of the initial black/grey around them as an outline. Clean up any messes and finish your dude. Alternatively paint 15mm or smaller models 
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Aug 13, 2015 02:26
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