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Leaky wheel cylinder on the driver's side.
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Aug 12, 2015 01:48
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Slavvy posted:Leaky wheel cylinder on the driver's side. Took the hub off the wheel i replaced the cylinder in and the parking adjuster, the spring for the bottom of the shoes and the bracket that has the ebrake wire and spring connected to it fell out.... WTF?
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Aug 12, 2015 02:11
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rdb posted:Don't let anyone fool you, the Toyota dealer makes thier money in the service department. They rely on owners not being educated about the maintenance of thier own vehicles, and the false pretence that only the Toyota dealer can make the proper fix with only Toyota certified parts, fluids and special tools. There probably is an oil leak(the dealer would be breaking the law by attempting to sell the service otherwise), but its miniscule and won't cause issues. Take it somewhere else for an honest opinion, or post pictures here. I'm gonna second all this but go a step further. If a car is out of warranty, you shouldn't take it to the dealership for anything other than a recall. Exceptions: if you drive a high-end luxury vehicle like a mercedes or something, and you are very rich. The Prius has that magical hybrid drivetrain, though! Surely only the experts at Toyota can service it, right? No, definitely not. They've sold a bajillion of the things and most mechanics have had training and done plenty of work on them. Find a reputable local independent mechanic and stop paying dealership prices for work that will probably be done better, by someone with more knowledge and experience, for something like half the price or less.
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Aug 12, 2015 03:58
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Senior Funkenstien posted:Took the hub off the wheel i replaced the cylinder in and the parking adjuster, the spring for the bottom of the shoes and the bracket that has the ebrake wire and spring connected to it fell out.... WTF? If the spring wasn't broke, not an attachment point, then it likely wasn't seated right and popped off, letting the adjuster fall out. Also, did you take the time to adjust it before you drove? Usually they're tight enough in there they can't fall out even without the spring.
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Aug 12, 2015 04:58
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When is it a good idea to change to a cooler plug? I'm running OEM plugs with about 15k on them, but I've been hearing pinging under load ever summer really hit, and mileage has gone to complete poo poo since I started hearing the pinging (I assume the ECU is pulling timing because of the pinging). I did try filling it with 93 octane to see if the pinging goes down, and also to see if mileage goes up (if it goes up, I know the ECU is pulling timing). I'm averaging 19-21 MPG right now. 2006 Saturn Ion, L61 Ecotec 2.2L, 5 speed manual, 119k. Currently has AC Delco iridium plugs in it, the same ones that replaced the part number recommended in the owner's manual (I know they're made by NGK, but AC Delco had a hell of a rebate at the time). Really stupid followup question - could the engine running a bit on the warm side cause the pinging? The gauge has been sitting a bit higher than usual lately - I know the thermostat spring is broken, and that the thermostat has been stuck roughly halfway open since about November, but since spring it's been running at normal temps until we started breaking 100. It'll occasionally get above the halfway mark if left idling for awhile, and pretty much always sits just below halfway; it used to sit a bit above 1/3. e: the thermostat gets replaced Sunday, along with the DexShit.
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Aug 12, 2015 08:06
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I'm going on a 12 day 4000 mile trip in two weeks. Should I do anything special to be prepared? I'm driving a 2012 Subaru Impreza. I'm already doing an oil change before I go, and thinking of putting in fresh headlights since they're the original bulbs. I have some basic hand tools, a tire plug kit, jumper cables, and a blanket that I keep in there all the time. Tires and brakes are good.
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Aug 12, 2015 13:04
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FogHelmut posted:I'm going on a 12 day 4000 mile trip in two weeks. Should I do anything special to be prepared? Breakdown coverage.
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Aug 12, 2015 13:21
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spog posted:Breakdown coverage. I got roadside assistance with AAA, Subaru, and Liberty Mutual.
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Aug 12, 2015 14:26
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Are you set on sweet tunes?
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Aug 12, 2015 14:34
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dammit, my 2000 Ranger is throwing an airbag code. It's flashing at me, but it seems like it's giving me four or five numbers which is two or three more than it seems it should be. How do I decode it? I cleaned the connection under the seat (per the internet's recommendation) and it didn't help.
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Aug 12, 2015 14:54
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FogHelmut posted:I got roadside assistance with AAA, Subaru, and Liberty Mutual. Tyre compressor Decent tyre wrench Might want to give it a wash and wax before you go
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Aug 12, 2015 15:09
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GenIII SBC intake gaskets are generally reusable unless they're cracked/damaged/crusty right? I've got to do knock sensors on my 2000 LR4.
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Aug 12, 2015 15:19
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FogHelmut posted:I'm going on a 12 day 4000 mile trip in two weeks. Should I do anything special to be prepared? Keep a couple of 1L~ bottles of fluids with you, whatever oil you changed, coolant, washer fluid, and lots of water. You're going to be driving the poo poo out of your car for the next 12 days, it might need a little topup or something along the way.
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Aug 12, 2015 15:43
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spog posted:Tyre compressor I'd second this. They might take a long time to air up a tire but they can still be a lifesaver. If most cars had anywhere to put a full-size wheel and tire I'd say you should get one so you don't have to run on a donut in case of a flat (I see so many people who seem to think those are good to just drive on indefinitely, but then they are the same people who seem to not want to take care of their vehicles in any way), but for just one trip, there are other, less time-intensive ways to get prepared to go on a long road trip. e: Take lots of bottled water, in a cooler or not, it doesn't matter. In the summer, you don't want to be stuck on the side of the road if you have a break down, and have no water to drink while you wait for a tow truck. This is especially true if you are on a state highway or an interstate with 40-50 miles in between, well, anything. life is killing me fucked around with this message at 16:02 on Aug 12, 2015 |
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Aug 12, 2015 15:59
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some texas redneck posted:When is it a good idea to change to a cooler plug? Changing to a colder plug won't hurt your engine; the only risk is fouling (and/or wasting your money if it doesn't help the issue). What part number is your plug, 12620540? 12625058? Either way, if it's 12620540, you can try 12647827 (for Ecotec Gen 2 2.0L T/C LTG) and if it's 12625058, you can try 12642791 (for HFV6 Gen 1). The gaps will be the same. That said, I don't think a colder plug will fix the issue; spark plug heat range doesn't affect knocking, just pre-ignition, which is different and you'll definitely know if that happens. The thermostat, on the other hand, definitely could be the fix, because knock has a high correlation with intake air temperature. And FWIW, it doesn't matter if you bought AC Delco or NGK 
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Aug 12, 2015 16:03
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Tommychu posted:GenIII SBC intake gaskets are generally reusable unless they're cracked/damaged/crusty right? I've got to do knock sensors on my 2000 LR4. eehhhhhhhh maybe. I would have one on hand before you do the job, I have had some pretty poo poo luck with gaskets lately.
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Aug 12, 2015 16:09
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BrokenKnucklez posted:eehhhhhhhh maybe. I would have one on hand before you do the job, I have had some pretty poo poo luck with gaskets lately. Alright, I'll make sure to pick some up. Any other things I should order for this job, or common 'while I'm in there' stuff?
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Aug 12, 2015 16:40
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some texas redneck posted:When is it a good idea to change to a cooler plug? Might not be a saturn issue, but could be your knock sensor. My subies all have trash knock sensors to begin with and most of the time that the first place i look to a pingin/ mpg issue.
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Aug 12, 2015 18:45
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Wait, what's the difference between pinging and knocking?
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Aug 12, 2015 18:52
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Safety Dance posted:Wait, what's the difference between pinging and knocking? a ping is a term for a preignition of fuel, knock can also mean the same thing. However, a knock can also be used to describe a sound. I hope this made it clear as mud.
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Aug 12, 2015 19:30
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The word "ping" can also be used to describe a sound  vvv definitely with you there. One thing English is missing is really good onomatopoeias. totalnewbie fucked around with this message at 19:51 on Aug 12, 2015 |
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Aug 12, 2015 19:41
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totalnewbie posted:The word "ping" can also be used to describe a sound I think it's misleading because pinging to me has always sounded like tapping or ticking.
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Aug 12, 2015 19:48
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I posted this helpful chart from a local motorcycle shop a while ago. Sorry, no "knock".
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Aug 12, 2015 20:37
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I just bought a 1986 Mazda B2000 that I know basically nothing about because the PO was some shady dude who met me in a parking lot. Still, the truck was cheap... Anyway, I've got a couple questions. I'm thinking I should probably replace the timing belt to be safe. I think I have the 2.0L SOHC, which makes it non-interference based on what the Internet says, but Rockauto's timing kits say "interference engine" on a lot of them. Should I just pick one that doesn't say "Interference" and buy it? Should I get the kit with the water pump included or is it not that important? How would you recommend cleaning out bedliner glue, and the sand that's stuck in the glue, out of the bed of a truck? I mostly want to get the sand off so I can spray it with rattlecan bedliner. It's got some pretty gross purple tint on the windows as seen below... best way to get that off? 
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Aug 12, 2015 21:07
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Those windows are hilariously purple. It looks warm where you live, is it? Get some window cleaner with ammonia, spray a healthy amount on the inside tint. Get black garbage bags or some aluminum foil and cover the whole inside window with it. This will cook the adhesive inside at long as its at least 70ish degrees, and if you're lucky it will peel off in pretty big chunks.
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Aug 12, 2015 21:13
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go to gates website and look up the part number for the timing belt. as for the glue... heat and a scraper? Goo gone? I am lost on that one.
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Aug 12, 2015 21:16
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Cool truck!
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Aug 12, 2015 21:18
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Pham Nuwen posted:It's got some pretty gross purple tint on the windows as seen below... best way to get that off? Removing a mod that looks like it was put on in a driveway? Mighty Car Mods can help! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vmR8LlGkGJQ
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Aug 12, 2015 21:32
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License plate chat: Been pulled over twice for no front license plate, warnings both times, but my 2010 Acura TSX cannot mount a front license plate. Without a bracket, the holes in the bottom grille are too far apart compared to the holes in the license plate, and with a bracket, well, the fucker won't fit in there anyway so with a bracket is a moot point. The bottom grille, height-wise, is too short for the license plate itself. I mean, I can force it in the space, but not without scratching paint, which I don't want to do. Another thing I don't want to do is drill holes in the top part of the bumper, not unless I have to. Is there something else I can do that I'm too dumb to think of, or am I just going to have to endure getting pulled over a million times and explaining the situation a million times? The state trooper who pulled me over three weeks ago said putting it inside the windshield won't fly, so I'm kind of bummed at Texas state law and at Acura for making a front grille that can only viably fit a plate the size of a motorcycle license plate.
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Aug 13, 2015 00:06
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Get some material (I used aluminum sheet on my jeep, but you probably want something more like plastic) and make an adapter. Drill holes to match what's in your bumper, drill holes to match your license plate. Attach plate to adapter, protect the bumper from the back of the nut/screw, then attach to the bumper. I wasn't about to try to drill holes through my new 5/32" thick steel bumper for a loving license plate. I had some leftover aluminum sheet scrap (from lowes) that I trimmed, drilled, and painted black. It mounts to the fairlead, then the license plate sits just below. Unless you get right up to it, you can't even see the adapter.
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Aug 13, 2015 00:58
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Hey all, I'm looking at buying a 1982 Vanagon Adventurewagen, that's in nice condition with 73k miles and a perfect (original engine). Took it to a mechanic who diagnosed some brake issues, but not much else. The real problem is that the title is not in the seller's name (Mike). The title is in someone named Kathy's name and signed. Mike says that Kathy was the original owner, and had the van in her shop/garage for 15 years and had it registered as a non-op in CA (where this transaction would be taking place). There is a bill of sale from Kathy to Gabe, and another bill of sale from Gabe to Mike. How do I make sure this is not a scam, cause this is a dream car, but it's setting of alarms in my head.
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Aug 13, 2015 03:08
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life is killing me posted:Is there something else I can do that I'm too dumb to think of Do you have a front tow hook (usually there's a little plastic flap over a threaded hole that a eyehook screws into)? If so someone undoubtedly makes a front plate frame that screws into the threaded hole. Some people think it's  but I'd rather have that than drill holes in my bumper.
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Aug 13, 2015 03:16
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choprite posted:Hey all, Walk away. This is not going to work well when you try to register it, period. The only ways you are going to succeed here are: - if CA allows vehicles over a certain age (1982 probably does not qualify in CA but I have no firsthand knowledge of this. Ask the DMV what their title requirement cutoff is) to be registered using a previous registration and a bill of sale from the named person on the registration to you, you need the old registration and a bill of sale from that party to you. - otherwise, you need to find the last person who actually titled it, have them file for a duplicate title, and sell it to you. A cockamamie story that goes "I have a title signed over to this person and some bills of sale written on napkins from that person to this one, and this one to that one, and that one to me" is just entertainment for the DMV person who will ultimately tell you to go fish. At least if CA is anything like MA - which I bet it is. Only backwater states like Maine and NH are allowing BOS+old registration titlings these days. If you insist on buying this one... get the last owner who titled it properly to do the title paperwork before you ever pay the person holding the vehicle right now. Otherwise, you are just going to end up reselling it on craigslist with the same exact song and dance, except now there will be 3 daisychained bills of sale and the next guy still won't be able to register it. Worstcase, said previous owner who titled it properly can claim you stole it from them and get it back, now that they know where it is and still have legal title claim to it.
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Aug 13, 2015 03:44
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Tommychu posted:GenIII SBC intake gaskets are generally reusable unless they're cracked/damaged/crusty right? I've got to do knock sensors on my 2000 LR4. They're just rubber, so yeah they are. But, I just did an LS1 intake, and I had seven perfectly fine gaskets and one slightly torn one so I had to get new ones anyway. So if it's your only mode of transport, I'd get another set and only open it if your old ones look kinda busted.
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Aug 13, 2015 04:45
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My '04 GTP has a pretty noticeable shimmy on the highway. I've had the wheels balanced multiple times so I'm pretty sure that isn't the trouble. It seems to do it mostly while accelerating. For instance, cruise set at 75 on the highway, smooth as silk while going downhill or coasting but when I come to a hill and the car powers up I feel the shimmy. Shimmy goes away once I crest the hill. I'm told its probably the axles. I replaced one along with a wheel bearing several years ago but the other is still stock. What would cause an axle to come unbalanced? It doesnt seem like something that would just wear out. I'd like to understand what causes this condition if anybody can help explain it to me. Also, how would I determine which side is causing the vibration?
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Aug 13, 2015 05:35
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life is killing me posted:License plate chat: Check your local laws, in Washington State the law is it cant be higher than 4 ft off the ground and must be clearly visible from the front, so I interpreted that law as attached to my passenger side sun visor. It isn't higher than 4 ft on my car and is clearly visible. I have been pulled over for it, I just recite the RCW to the police officers, they grumble and let me on my way. The downside is the passenger has to deal with a sun visor at all times.
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Aug 13, 2015 16:42
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Liberty Mutual called me to tell me they accidentally issued the check to me instead of to the shop doing the repair on my bumper. The check is for $235, and they want me to pay that and my $500 deductible to the shop, which they will refund to me when they get the money from the other guy's GEICO. I feel I shouldn't have to front any money, deductible or not, as this guy hit my parked car and was arrested for DUI. Is this normal procedure? Should I not front any money for the insurance co? Should I ask them to stop the check sent to me and reissue a new on directly to the shop?
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Aug 13, 2015 16:46
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FogHelmut posted:Liberty Mutual called me to tell me they accidentally issued the check to me instead of to the shop doing the repair on my bumper. The check is for $235, and they want me to pay that and my $500 deductible to the shop, which they will refund to me when they get the money from the other guy's GEICO. Well, I'm taking my car in tomorrow to get the rear bumper fixed after being rearended, and I'm supposed to front the deductible. My insurer (GEICO) will then get the deductible back from the at-fault party's insurance.
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Aug 13, 2015 16:58
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Geoj posted:Do you have a front tow hook (usually there's a little plastic flap over a threaded hole that a eyehook screws into)? If so someone undoubtedly makes a front plate frame that screws into the threaded hole. Some people think it's I'll look into that, thanks. That's probably the only viable solution if my car has what you're talking about. Will that basically make the plate off-center? Lord of Garbagemen posted:Check your local laws, in Washington State the law is it cant be higher than 4 ft off the ground and must be clearly visible from the front, so I interpreted that law as attached to my passenger side sun visor. It isn't higher than 4 ft on my car and is clearly visible. I have been pulled over for it, I just recite the RCW to the police officers, they grumble and let me on my way. The downside is the passenger has to deal with a sun visor at all times. According to any Texas state trooper that has pulled me over ever (I remember once in my early 20's I was pulled over for actually having my license plate in the dash), it can't go inside the car, but I'll have to do more digging, because cops are not infallible. Later last year I was pulled over by a Wise county sheriff deputy for the same thing, and he cited Texas state law to me on that as well. He let me off with a warning too, but no city cops have seen fit to care about my lack of a front plate, and their presence in my most frequented areas is pretty high. The last time I got pulled over for speeding, the city motorcycle cop who pulled me over didn't even mention it, but possibly because he didn't notice.
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Aug 13, 2015 17:08
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life is killing me posted:I'll look into that, thanks. That's probably the only viable solution if my car has what you're talking about. Will that basically make the plate off-center? Yes, usually these frames result in the plate being to the passenger side of the car. Unless your state has very specific laws about the plate being centered on the front bumper you should be fine from a legal standpoint.
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Aug 13, 2015 17:16
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