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Chances are good you'll have to rejet if you change the exhaust at all, yes.
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Aug 10, 2015 22:28
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Chances are good you'll have to rejet if you change the exhaust at all, yes. poo poo, ok. I have a workshop manual but don't know gently caress all about tuning two-strokes, would I just buy a bunch of jets and step them up until I get decent power? The oil pump flow is adjustable so no worries on that front.
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Aug 10, 2015 23:35
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So I've got something going on with my cooling system that's kinda puzzling me: Two weeks ago, I rode it home in ~100-ish degree weather, parked the bike, and the next morning, there was a small puddle of coolant on the floor that appears to have been puked out the vent tube from the expansion tank. No biggie, I inspected the coolant level, checked for leaks both off and with the engine running on the center stand, it appeared to come up to temp and kick on the fans as needed with no overheating, so I figured no big deal, it just got heat soaked sitting in the garage after I turned it off and stopped circulating the coolant and caused a little bit to burp out, no big deal, and the coolant level was still halfway between the min and max marks on the tank, so no harm no foul. Cue forward to the following week, and once again, I get home, park it in the garage, and there's another puddle of coolant the next day; except this time it was after riding home in the early morning, in 55-60 degree temps, which shouldn't have been anywhere near hot enough to cause heat soak in the coolant after the bike shut off. So now I'm trying to figure out what caused it to do it the second time; which was over a week after the first occurrence, with no detectable loss of coolant in the intervening time (i.e. it's not losing any coolant except when it pukes out the vent). It's worrying me because I'm afraid there's some underlying condition I'm not finding that's causing this - bike's still a hair under 20k miles, so water pump and tstat should still be ok, there's not a significant amount of grime or crap caked onto the radiator to impede airflow, nor are there a bunch of bent fins, and I can find no evidence of any leaking or cracked hoses in the cooling system. Only thing I can think of is maybe some air got into the system the first time it puked out coolant, but the coolant level never got below the minimum mark in the expansion tank, so I wouldn't *think* that would have happened, nor do I expect the coolant level was lowered enough to reduce the system's ability to absorb heat significantly enough to make it puke out after 45 minutes of steady freeway riding with only a few stops in sub 60F weather. Any ideas? Should I just top it back up with coolant again and run it with the cap off to bleed out any trapped air and hope for the best?
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Aug 11, 2015 00:33
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Have you checked the radiator level yet?
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Aug 11, 2015 00:58
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Sounds somewhat like a bad radiator cap.
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Aug 11, 2015 01:25
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Slavvy posted:poo poo, ok. I have a workshop manual but don't know gently caress all about tuning two-strokes, would I just buy a bunch of jets and step them up until I get decent power? The oil pump flow is adjustable so no worries on that front. No, the opposite. Start with the fattest and work down until it revs clean and doesn't foul plugs. It'll make great power when lean... until it seizes or you put a hole in the piston. And then consider going back up a step. Way better to be a step rich and sacrifice a couple % peak power and a fraction of an MPG than risk your top end. Buy a stack of plugs, you'll go through them all on a 2-stroke. Do some Googling on reading 2-stroke spark plug color and "plug chops." Plug chops could mean literally taking your plug out and cutting it up, but in the Vespa scene it's more like this: run at full throttle at the top of 3rd gear for 30 seconds, then, while still holding the throttle open, cut the ignition (then close the throttle), pull the clutch and coast to a stop. Pull the plug and check the color - that's the best you'll get at seeing your mixture at the top of your throttle range. The exact processes in tuning yours will be different since you won't have the Dell'Orto Si-type carbs Vespas have but the concepts will be the same, the plug chop will still be part of it. For tuning idle we've got an idle speed screw (sets how open the throttle is when closed) and an idle mix. The goal on the idle mixture is to have it rich enough that the idle drops at a reasonable rate (a lean bike or a bike with an air leak will hold revs, rev up, or just drop very slowly) but lean enough that it doesn't bog when you open the throttle quickly (and doesn't foul plugs). Again, this will depend on your carb. Obviously.
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Aug 11, 2015 06:32
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Gay Nudist Dad posted:No, the opposite. Start with the fattest and work down until it revs clean and doesn't foul plugs. It'll make great power when lean... until it seizes or you put a hole in the piston. And then consider going back up a step. Way better to be a step rich and sacrifice a couple % peak power and a fraction of an MPG than risk your top end. This is extremely helpful, thanks dude! I'm not too concerned about idle mixture as the shop manual has a very detailed procedure that mirrors the 4t method almost exactly (turn it until it starts idling rough etc). I'll definitely buy a bunch of plugs and jets after I get an exhaust made up, though. It has a reed valve from the factory, is there any benefit to replacing/modifying this? The mileage is super low so I can't imagine the reeds are worn out; I also don't know if reed valve dimensions are at all standardised or if they're model specific.
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Aug 11, 2015 08:10
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Slavvy posted:poo poo, ok. I have a workshop manual but don't know gently caress all about tuning two-strokes, would I just buy a bunch of jets and step them up until I get decent power? The oil pump flow is adjustable so no worries on that front.
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Aug 11, 2015 19:06
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First thing you want to do with any old bike regardless of 2t or 4t is to set the carb to stock and make sure the timing is set properly with good spark. If you do buy a pipe, it should come with some jetting guidance.
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Aug 11, 2015 21:06
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It has cdi and the timing isn't adjustable. I intend to take the carb and engine apart before doing any modifying because both are undoubtedly filled with filth from not running for over half a decade. Definitely won't be able to buy a pipe though, I'd have to get one made up.
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Aug 11, 2015 23:18
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Anyone have any experience with Cleveland Cyclewerks? I'm looking for a starter bike and their Misfit is right up my alley in the looks department, and since I'll only be doing town riding, 250cc seems like a decent size to start on. I'm kind of set on that "look" for a bike because cafe racers tickle me in all the right places. I'm just wondering if anyone has any idea on the build quality of the bikes. OHV thumpers seem like a breeze to work on and I'm pretty mechanically inclined, so basic maintenance wouldn't be a worry; I just like the added insurance of a new bike over starting with an old Honda or Suzuki. Is this a good idea or am I terribly off-base with this? EDIT: Welp, nevermind. Typical Chinese quality control issues (bearing failures after 140 miles? Jesus). Looks like it's a craigslist used bike and waiting for spring for me. Professor Bling fucked around with this message at 01:39 on Aug 12, 2015 |
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Aug 12, 2015 00:19
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Yeah you are buying crappy chinese bikes with a few bells for a massive markup.
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Aug 12, 2015 01:43
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Professor Bling posted:Anyone have any experience with Cleveland Cyclewerks? Buy a TU250
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Aug 12, 2015 02:30
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Gay Nudist Dad posted:Buy a TU250 Don't be mean. What he really wants is a Ducati Scrambler and or/a savage beating until the hipster demons are driven out.
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Aug 12, 2015 02:57
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Professor Bling posted:Welp, nevermind. Typical Chinese quality control issues Misfit : Cleveland :: Harbor Freight wrench : Pittsburgh
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Aug 12, 2015 03:02
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Marv Hushman posted:Misfit : Cleveland :: Harbor Freight wrench : Pittsburgh Please, "Pittsburgh" steel wrenches are perfectly serviceable, if low quality, articles. "Cleveland" "Motorcycles" aren't even that, they're like those hollow plastic hammers you give three year olds.
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Aug 12, 2015 03:28
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Elviscat posted:Please, "Pittsburgh" steel wrenches are perfectly serviceable Misfit : Cleveland :: Harbor Freight Open Heart Surgery and Fly Fishing Kit : Pittsburgh
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Aug 12, 2015 03:59
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Gay Nudist Dad posted:Buy a TU250 This is a fantastic motorcycle and it looks great. Really consider it. Its fuel injected, gas mileage is great, and will run forever.
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Aug 12, 2015 04:23
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Minkee posted:This is a fantastic motorcycle and it looks great. Really consider it. Its fuel injected, gas mileage is great, and will run forever. So long as you never, ever need to get above 45 mph.
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Aug 12, 2015 05:56
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HotCanadianChick posted:So long as you never, ever need to get above 45 mph. Don't speedshame
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Aug 12, 2015 06:29
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Those hipster demons find me good whiskey and great jazz  Besides, I should really just get a UJM and go from there before worrying about "the cafe look," it's been over 5 years since I touched anything with two wheels and an engine and I've never been licensed for road riding anyway. Edit: To bring this back in line, I'm 6'3" and about 195 big fat American pounds on a heavy day; would I be wrong in looking for a 500cc UJM over the 250? I'm guessing the Honda>Yamaha/Suzuki standard still applies for the older bikes. Again, town riding only, no highways (not ruling out long rides, but backroads get me to Chicago, no need to hop on the Reagan if I don't have to). Professor Bling fucked around with this message at 08:36 on Aug 12, 2015 |
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Aug 12, 2015 08:33
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If you want a bike you get to work on, tinker with and take out on the weekends, get an ancient UJM. If you want a functioning vehicle that goes when you want it to get a modern bike. Realtalk, those are your choices. Reliability is neither here nor there; there's no such thing as a reliable 35 year old bike unless you buy something that's already been completely rebuilt, and even then they're not that great.
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Aug 12, 2015 08:53
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I say buy something cheap and popular that runs, so you can ride it and find out which bike you really want. Or you can crash it and part it out. UJM, cruiser, Ninja 250, anything will do as a learning tool. If you're not quite sure which type of bike you want, you'll find out faster if you're riding something, anything. E: weight wise you needn't worry, but height wise you might get cramped on many small bikes. A dual sport like a KLR is accommodating, can be very cheap and a finely done DS or supermoto is much cooler than a café'd blogmobile. Ola fucked around with this message at 09:57 on Aug 12, 2015 |
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Aug 12, 2015 09:52
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Slavvy posted:If you want a bike you get to work on, tinker with and take out on the weekends, This is what I'm looking for. My job is a mile away from my apartment and my college campus is half that; I walk everywhere. Getting/being able to work on whatever motorcycle I buy is actually a factor in what I'm looking at.
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Aug 12, 2015 18:07
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Professor Bling posted:This is what I'm looking for. My job is a mile away from my apartment and my college campus is half that; I walk everywhere. Getting/being able to work on whatever motorcycle I buy is actually a factor in what I'm looking at. Then go hog wild and get something old and lovely. Power and weight aren't really considerations unless your pockets are deep enough to buy a CBX or one of the big old two strokes or something - most old bikes are heavy and gutless to varying degrees. Just try to find something japanese, a not-too-obscure model (avoid special editions, limited runs etc) that hasn't sat outside or been hacked up.
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Aug 12, 2015 19:51
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Anyone got their dog on a bike before? Have a 6 mo boy. I have a general idea. Practice bringing him to and from the bike, maybe have someone pass him off to you, incorporating treats. I'm more worried about the noise. I have a luggage rack (DRZ 400 SM) so I'm not sure if I'm going to try to figure out a mounted box of some sort, a backpack baby carrier, or just have him sit in front. He might be slightly too large as an adult for a box on the back. Should be 25 lbs grown.
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Aug 12, 2015 20:38
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There are quite a few companies that make motorcycle dog carriers. I guess the key would be getting him used to the noise and the wind, and making sure if something happened if you went down that he'd be OK.
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Aug 12, 2015 21:19
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All the money being thrown around lately to mess with CA avs, yet this...
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Aug 12, 2015 22:33
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Lol you can change it but someone in GIP is just gonna buy it back
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Aug 12, 2015 22:37
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Nostalgia4Dicks posted:Lol you can change it but someone in GIP is just gonna buy it back It's less offensive than mine.
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Aug 12, 2015 22:41
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Nostalgia4Dicks posted:Anyone got their dog on a bike before? Have a 6 mo boy. I have a general idea. Practice bringing him to and from the bike, maybe have someone pass him off to you, incorporating treats. I'm more worried about the noise. I have a luggage rack (DRZ 400 SM) so I'm not sure if I'm going to try to figure out a mounted box of some sort, a backpack baby carrier, or just have him sit in front. He might be slightly too large as an adult for a box on the back. Should be 25 lbs grown. If you still have the stock exhaust it should be ok, it'd be cruel to put a dog on a DRZ with an aftermarket exhaust though. My dog used to ride on my old BMW F650 sitting between me and my ex. I wanted to make something like this but he hates my DRZ with its current exhaust  http://i.imgur.com/RE1RvQQ.jpg http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/dog-carrier.733528/ echomadman fucked around with this message at 23:16 on Aug 12, 2015 |
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Aug 12, 2015 23:12
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Stock but gutted by previous owner I believe so I think it's a bit louder than stock
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Aug 12, 2015 23:14
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It depends on your dog's personality. Some take to it, some don't. A friend's scottish deerhound absolutely loves the sidecar and I've seen him get more excited by that thing than any amount of treats. For noise, they actually give him earplugs. That said, 25lb is probably too large for anything but a sidecar, rides other than very controlled/short trips are a bad idea, and you need to be prepared to abandon the whole project instantly if it's obvious he doesn't have the temperament for it. tirinal fucked around with this message at 00:38 on Aug 13, 2015 |
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Aug 13, 2015 00:25
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So I noticed something I think is weird tonight. While I'm at work I was going to zip around the parking lot. I started the bike and waited a few seconds then decidedto coast and let the friction zone pull me and see how low the rpm will go till it stalled. As I'm letting out the clutch the rpm dips below idle(800-1k) and back up to idle(1k-1.2k)and maintains 4-5mph. Our parking lot is slanted in areas so it would change. The clutch has to be engaged slow, but not incredibly slow. Dropping it will stall the bike ubless above idle rpm. It'll fall back down to idle rpm and 4-5mph and roll around. 4-5 in 1st, 6-7 in 2nd, 8-9 in 3rd but it was chuggy. I've never noticed this before and I'm almost certain I've done this before without it maintaining speed. Im thinking clutch or maybe throttle need to be adjusted, but I'm pretty sure the throttle is ok. Could this be a symptom of a more serious clutch issue?
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Aug 13, 2015 06:35
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My Buell will raise the RPM a touch while I'm letting out the clutch. I hesitate to say "normal" based on my experience with Weird Bike, but it's pretty normal. Gearing in 1st is too tall for me to do anything but chug a few times before stalling though.
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Aug 13, 2015 06:50
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You're just achieved some good clutch control. Any bike should be able to get moving at idle if you feather it well. edit: well maybe not inferior vtwins but all the p2s and i4 i've ridden you can get rolling with no throttle.
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Aug 13, 2015 07:03
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Schroeder91 posted:So I noticed something I think is weird tonight. While I'm at work I was going to zip around the parking lot. I started the bike and waited a few seconds then decidedto coast and let the friction zone pull me and see how low the rpm will go till it stalled. As I'm letting out the clutch the rpm dips below idle(800-1k) and back up to idle(1k-1.2k)and maintains 4-5mph. Our parking lot is slanted in areas so it would change. The clutch has to be engaged slow, but not incredibly slow. Dropping it will stall the bike ubless above idle rpm. It'll fall back down to idle rpm and 4-5mph and roll around. If the bike's got modern fuel injection then no, it's just a symptom that your fuel injection is working properly. Carbed bikes, when the throttle's closed, have just a generic idle setting which should be enough fuel and air to keep the bike running (on some bikes this may still be enough to keep going with no throttle). Fuel injected bikes instead try and keep the revs at a stable low setting - increasing load makes the revs drops so the ECU gives it more fuel to keep the revs up, until you reach the maximum torque the engine can deliver at idle. It's really handy when you're in really slippery conditions. nsaP posted:You're just achieved some good clutch control. Any bike should be able to get moving at idle if you feather it well. V-twins do it better (like they do everything better) because they make more torque at lower revs. It's wrong to say any bike can do it though - like I say, carbed bikes will have a harder time of it.
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Aug 13, 2015 07:13
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nsaP posted:You're just achieved some good clutch control. Any bike should be able to get moving at idle if you feather it well. Is it still good clutch control when I'm riding with no hands? It was literally going about 5mph with no input. Rpm stayed at idle and it just rode its self. Shouldn't it stall with no throttle and clutch lever out all the way? ^^^well the bike is FI, so it's normal than? I could've sworn it would stall everytime, but I dont intentionally try and stall my bike often. Schroeder91 fucked around with this message at 07:45 on Aug 13, 2015 |
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Aug 13, 2015 07:42
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If your bike is FI it's normal, I regularly cruise around parking lots without my hand on the throttle at all. The zx10 will roll like that at about 15km/h.
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Aug 13, 2015 07:50
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Shimrod posted:If your bike is FI it's normal, I regularly cruise around parking lots without my hand on the throttle at all. The zx10 will roll like that at about 15km/h. It's really handy if you've got really lovely traction - I've used that trick to get a car out of a totally frozen car park (while watching 4x4s sitting there spinning their tyres before catapulting into each other - that was a fun night)
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Aug 13, 2015 08:10
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