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anyone have any tips for flags? i have a background in graphic design so i'm thinking i'll just print them, but i'm unsure.
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Aug 16, 2015 17:50
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There are times where blood effects look pretty cool. It is a game where many people are messily butchered, it fits the setting, when someone uses the gore effects delicately rather than slamming red paint onto the miniature it looks great.
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Aug 16, 2015 18:17
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Post 9-11 User posted:... when someone uses the gore effects delicately rather than slamming red paint onto the miniature it looks great. In my opinion, it shouldn't be too delicate, either. Sometimes the blood effect on a sword looks like the weapon was very carefully dipped into a pot of blood, rather than looking like it just hacked into a dude. There should be a little splatter/messiness around the point of impact, not all over half the model.
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Aug 16, 2015 19:44
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Printed flags look as good as the amount of effort you put into them. Make use of Photoshop's paper texture filters, add weathering and make sure you double print the image so that the ink is nice and saturated, and they'll look good. Also, insert some thin copper wire between the layers of the flag when you glue the sides together so that you can pose it the way you want.
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Aug 16, 2015 19:45
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Case in point:
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Aug 16, 2015 19:46
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BULBASAUR posted:Case in point: All I see is the hair/dust/bristle on his nose.
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Aug 16, 2015 20:18
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LordAba posted:All I see is the hair/dust/bristle on his nose. As someone who has become more conscious of how hard it is to keep dust and debris off of models and in the paint (and who paints large white areas) I wamt to give a friendly but firm "gently caress you" for noticing these things
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Aug 16, 2015 20:28
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Boon posted:As someone who has become more conscious of how hard it is to keep dust and debris off of models and in the paint (and who paints large white areas) I wamt to give a friendly but firm "gently caress you" for noticing these things This is one reason I never take super close zooms of my models. The other is that I'm a poo poo painter. But yeah, it is the worse.
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Aug 16, 2015 21:21
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I get them all the time too. At this point I just don't care. I hardly every notice them tbh
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Aug 16, 2015 21:22
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loving scrubs painting outside of positive pressure clean-rooms
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Aug 16, 2015 21:45
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BULBASAUR posted:Case in point: motherfucker LOVES him some koolaid
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Aug 16, 2015 22:36
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Moola posted:motherfucker LOVES him some koolaid That isn't supposed to be Kratos face paint?
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Aug 16, 2015 23:08
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That image is at least ten times larger than the actual miniature. I've said before how Painter Vision can make people have conniptions about teeny tiny imperfections that no one else will ever notice. I scaled-down the image, this is still larger than the model but it's more true to life: That's pretty loving cool. He is splattered with gore but it's not like someone smeared a red crayon over it. This guy has been bustin' some heads. The World Eaters legion colors work really well on a thematic level, too. All the blood and viscera these soldiers wade through is a stark contrast on their white uniforms.
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Aug 16, 2015 23:11
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Martian Skitarii have a sort of white checker pattern lining their red robes: What's a good technique to learn to paint a pattern like this?
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Aug 17, 2015 01:18
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GreenMarine posted:Martian Skitarii have a sort of white checker pattern lining their red robes They're cogs.
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Aug 17, 2015 02:19
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I'm painting my Talisman figures as learning activities before going on to my new warmachine army. Here's the Wizard and a frog. Frog isn't great but the wizard looks alright. These are the first things I've painted after some Bones minis in the Reaper learning kit. 
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Aug 17, 2015 04:06
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Is there a good source of non-ribbon greenstuff other than the GF9 pack? I'm going through an astonishing amount thanks to my Basius pads and I'd love to be able to buy a bigger quantity.
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Aug 17, 2015 04:13
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It's sold for around $16 a tube at a lot of hardware stores, brand name Kneadatite.
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Aug 17, 2015 04:58
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Don't buy Kneadatite for stuff like that, just buy a tub of Magic Sculp on Amazon. It's epoxy putty, but you get a fuckload of it for cheap, and it holds detail just as well as green putty.
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Aug 17, 2015 05:06
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GreenMarine posted:Martian Skitarii have a sort of white checker pattern lining their red robes: Honestly, it's just a super simple design to paint on. You could paint two thin white lines parallel to each other and then paint in equally spaced horizontal lines, so it'd look like a ladder. Then you could fill in every other one in white, and go back with the base color and cover up the extra construction lines. If you wanted to make them even you could eyeball it or just try painting dead center between every two points and kind of subdivide it further and further from there.
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Aug 17, 2015 06:12
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Silhouette posted:Don't buy Kneadatite for stuff like that, just buy a tub of Magic Sculp on Amazon. It's epoxy putty, but you get a fuckload of it for cheap, and it holds detail just as well as green putty. You can also mix it with greenstuff to get better properties for hard surface modelling.
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Aug 17, 2015 08:57
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Got some painting done over the weekend!    My phone has a cracked camera lens  pictures come out blurry on the left side of the image but these are 'quickie' WIP shots anyway
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Aug 17, 2015 08:57
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That is a freaking gorgeous Knight. I did a new thing!       The lighting is kind of poo poo and I need to clean up I know but I wanted to grab a picture before I varnished it. I got a poo poo-ton of dreads from the guy who sold me his extra Marines - I'm going to have a unit of three standard dreads with lascannons (and fists with heavy flamers or missile launchers) and a unit of two venerables with plasma cannons and fists/flamers. Always loved dreadnoughts and now they should be semi-viable.
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Aug 17, 2015 09:10
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Danimo posted:I'm painting my Talisman figures as learning activities before going on to my new warmachine army. Here's the Wizard and a frog. Frog isn't great but the wizard looks alright. These are the first things I've painted after some Bones minis in the Reaper learning kit. those cool dudes need some washes imo I like your froggie
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Aug 17, 2015 12:32
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Silhouette posted:Don't buy Kneadatite for stuff like that, just buy a tub of Magic Sculp on Amazon. It's epoxy putty, but you get a fuckload of it for cheap, and it holds detail just as well as green putty. There we go, that's what I'm talking about. Not cheap to ship it, but that's going to last a while.
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Aug 17, 2015 13:04
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Danimo posted:I'm painting my Talisman figures as learning activities before going on to my new warmachine army. Here's the Wizard and a frog. Frog isn't great but the wizard looks alright. These are the first things I've painted after some Bones minis in the Reaper learning kit. Can't believe I missed those! Agree with the skelebro - they're pretty solidly blocked out for the different colors. A simple wash - brown if you want to go with the easy option, color-specific for a cleaner deeper richer look - should make the shadows pop. Then you just clean up the brightest areas with the original paints and boom, they'll look even better.
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Aug 17, 2015 13:48
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Moola posted:those cool dudes need some washes imo Those guys have been sprayed with finish so they are done, but I had been kinda afraid of overdoing the wash. I was just using black paint and water, should I be using some kind of dedicated wash substance?
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Aug 17, 2015 13:54
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Danimo posted:Those guys have been sprayed with finish so they are done, but I had been kinda afraid of overdoing the wash. Anyone have a good tutorial for glowing/overheating gun barrels?
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Aug 17, 2015 13:58
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Silhouette posted:Don't buy Kneadatite for stuff like that, just buy a tub of Magic Sculp on Amazon. It's epoxy putty, but you get a fuckload of it for cheap, and it holds detail just as well as green putty. Magic Sculp is (as far as I can tell) the same stuff as Apoxie Sculpt, which is great for bulking up parts and bases and the like, but is kind of poor at handling details. If you're looking to make a large figure from scratch then it's great stuff to have because then you can just use greenstuff over it for the finer details such as faces, clothing, fur, etc. It should be fine for Basius pads however, since that's just a press-mold.
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Aug 17, 2015 14:02
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rantmo posted:There we go, that's what I'm talking about. Not cheap to ship it, but that's going to last a while. I use standard yellow-grey Milliput for my basius bases now, down here at least it's 1/3 the price of kneadatite/greenstuff
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Aug 17, 2015 14:11
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Danimo posted:I was just using black paint and water, should I be using some kind of dedicated wash substance? If you only have access to GW paints (you poor thing), their equivalents are ?(forgot) Sepia, Agrax Earthshade and Nuln Oil. VVV: most P3 paints are really good, but their washes are noticeably different. And don't touch their metallics. Pierzak fucked around with this message at 14:37 on Aug 17, 2015 |
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Aug 17, 2015 14:16
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Pierzak posted:Yes. Much easier than paint+water. If you have access to Army Painter stuff, buy the Soft Tone+Strong Tone+Dark tone washes (those in dropper bottles, not those in metal cans). Soft is for skin and light colors, Strong is universal for midtones and heavier darkening, Dark is black so for metal and dark colors like grey or blue. My local game shop has a bunch of Citadel stuff, I'll see if they have it but probably not. The owner uses all the P3 & Army Painter stuff himself and hasn't restocked any of it. I'll just order the army painter stuff online, I need to get a real red paint anyway. I had to get a bottle from Michaels since no local shops had any red.
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Aug 17, 2015 14:24
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Danimo posted:My local game shop has a bunch of Citadel stuff, I'll see if they have it but probably not. The owner uses all the P3 & Army Painter stuff himself and hasn't restocked any of it. Keep in mind that you can usually order through the gamestore too. Most gamestores have no issue with adding your stuff to their usual order and holding it for you. This isn't always the best way to get stuff (sometimes you can get a better deal online), but if you're not ordering a bunch of stuff, the lack of shipping costs can make it worthwhile. It also helps out your FLGS and shows them there's some demand for the stuff you're ordering. Of course, there's the occasional gamestore that gets pissy about doing special orders, or neglects to put them in, but if yours is even halfway decent, they'll be willing to put the order in for you, especially if you pay some or all of the cost up-front. It really comes down to whether or not your FLGS likes making money.
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Aug 17, 2015 17:58
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Uroboros posted:Anyone have a good tutorial for glowing/overheating gun barrels? Found this on From the Warp for heat stained barrels, but that's a bit more after-the-fact. http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/09/how-to-paint-heat-stained-gun-barrels.html
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Aug 17, 2015 18:00
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JackMann posted:Keep in mind that you can usually order through the gamestore too. Most gamestores have no issue with adding your stuff to their usual order and holding it for you. This isn't always the best way to get stuff (sometimes you can get a better deal online), but if you're not ordering a bunch of stuff, the lack of shipping costs can make it worthwhile. It also helps out your FLGS and shows them there's some demand for the stuff you're ordering. That's what I do. The delivery comes in on Thursdays, I pick up my stuff Friday after work, and usually place another order for the next week.
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Aug 17, 2015 19:02
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Does anyone have any advice for making a paint job on a shield look like it was done hastily by an illiterate peasant? I know that someone posted a valhallan army that had the sort of effect I'm looking for but any advice would be helpful.
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Aug 17, 2015 19:26
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fleshy echidna posted:Does anyone have any advice for making a paint job on a shield look like it was done hastily by an illiterate peasant? I know that someone posted a valhallan army that had the sort of effect I'm looking for but any advice would be helpful. Paint drunk? Painted up some of my Zombicide models as a quick tester and a break from 40K stuff, got these guys done in half an hour, not counting the priming and varnishing: 
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Aug 17, 2015 20:29
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fleshy echidna posted:Does anyone have any advice for making a paint job on a shield look like it was done hastily by an illiterate peasant? I know that someone posted a valhallan army that had the sort of effect I'm looking for but any advice would be helpful. Fray your brush and then cut it short
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Aug 17, 2015 20:58
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My annoyance with being completely unable to photograph this Skiavoros (along with needing to take good pictures of other things) made me go out and buy a real deal light tent. Savage makes really nice ones with integrated LED panels if you're looking for low frustration. My post-processing routing needs some work, but I'm on the way to figuring that out. Exposure and color correction is hard. Reshot my Kornak and took some pictures of a Sogorat while I was at it.            
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Aug 18, 2015 01:47
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Those models are really cool and you did a splendid job painting them.GreenMarine posted:Martian Skitarii have a sort of white checker pattern lining their red robes: Keep it simple and use hard edges to your advantage. I'm not going to try to make words to explain this visual process and it's not to scale so sue me:  1) Sloppy, long line 2) Block it in to get the general shape 2) Fill in that extraneous white you don't need 4) Now, block-out the teeth 5) Lastly, draw a nice straight line down the edge, the rounded "tip" of the start and end of your line are camouflaged in the blocks on the end This uses long brush strokes to create hard, right-angle corners. Otherwise, you'd need to carefully paint in those corners one at a time which would take ages and ages. Checkers aren't so different, with Lamenters I base coat white, create a grid in black, then fill it in with black. That means they are not true checkers, more like a windowsill, but at this small scale the eye tends not to notice. Post 9-11 User fucked around with this message at 03:12 on Aug 18, 2015 |
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Aug 18, 2015 03:08
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