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Gorson posted:I've had good luck with plain old "satin black" VHT engine enamel in a rattle can. Give it a good surface to adhere to, spray it on, bake it with engine heat or put it in the oven. The black comes out between matte and semi gloss, similar to factory engine black. Paint the head silver and the rest black, that would look p cool. I used the same sort of "VHT header paint" stuff on my Uly's muffler. Seems to hang on OK. I thought I'd just bake it on by running the bike but the exhaust straps dug through some of it before it cured properly so next time I have it off I'll need to touch it up. What I'm saying is if you have the means to cure it in an oven or whatever, that's probably a better option.
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Aug 17, 2015 16:36
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I can vouch for PJ1 Fast Black (satin) engine and case paint. Good to 500F, and they now have a version good to 2000F. I believe it's been one of their core products for decades. Expensive, but you don't need a lot. Also--no silver, afaik.
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Aug 17, 2015 17:22
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Gorson posted:I've had good luck with plain old "satin black" VHT engine enamel in a rattle can. Give it a good surface to adhere to, spray it on, bake it with engine heat or put it in the oven. The black comes out between matte and semi gloss, similar to factory engine black. Paint the head silver and the rest black, that would look p cool. This is my exact plan, I just thought I'd have to polish the head because I didn't know engine enamel came in silver. That makes life MUCH easier! Marv Hushman posted:I can vouch for PJ1 Fast Black (satin) engine and case paint. Good to 500F, and they now have a version good to 2000F. I believe it's been one of their core products for decades. Expensive, but you don't need a lot. Also--no silver, afaik. I think I need to go to a shop and look at some rattle cans.
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Aug 17, 2015 19:39
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So how do you get the straight rim tape (with the plastic applicator doodah) to look non-lovely as you go past the wheel weights? I'm happy enough with my freehand attempt but I know the weird wobble around the weights is going to annoy me more and more and it's so cheap to buy I'll end up ripping it off and starting again, so if there's some special trick I'm missing please clue me in.
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Aug 17, 2015 22:26
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Take off the weights, put the rim tape on, reattach weights? I don't know, I've never done rimtape.
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Aug 17, 2015 22:42
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Your weights shouldn't even be near where the tape goes :/
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Aug 17, 2015 23:07
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Shimrod posted:Your weights shouldn't even be near where the tape goes :/ He might have bang-on weights that clip onto the rim, in which case: shame on you ducati.
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Aug 17, 2015 23:10
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Slavvy posted:He might have bang-on weights that clip onto the rim, in which case: shame on you ducati. no, the weights are on the... I haven't got the vocab here, the bit of the wheel parallel (more or less) to the road, right at the edge (which is the only place I've ever seen wheel weights go). They're not on the bit of the rim perpendicular to it, where the tape goes, but the applicator needs to run along that parallel bit.
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Aug 17, 2015 23:24
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drat, first you ditch the aprilia for a ducati, now it's rim tapes....
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Aug 17, 2015 23:54
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goddamnedtwisto posted:no, the weights are on the... I haven't got the vocab here, the bit of the wheel parallel (more or less) to the road, right at the edge (which is the only place I've ever seen wheel weights go). They're not on the bit of the rim perpendicular to it, where the tape goes, but the applicator needs to run along that parallel bit. Yeah, what you're describing is bang-on weights. Ideally you'd have stick-on weights that sit closer to the spokes, nowhere near the rim tape area.
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Aug 17, 2015 23:57
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Huh. Wierd.
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Aug 18, 2015 00:40
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Slavvy posted:Yeah, what you're describing is bang-on weights. Ideally you'd have stick-on weights that sit closer to the spokes, nowhere near the rim tape area. Like I say I've only ever seen weights on that area. Sometimes they are nearer the spokes but only by a cm or so, the Monster wheels have a curve up towards the spokes that probably prevents that. e: Correction, now I think of it, the Mille had weights on the perpendicular area where the tape itself would go, and that again had a curve on the parallel area. goddamnedtwisto fucked around with this message at 07:28 on Aug 18, 2015 |
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Aug 18, 2015 07:25
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goddamnedtwisto posted:So how do you get the straight rim tape (with the plastic applicator doodah) to look non-lovely as you go past the wheel weights? I'm happy enough with my freehand attempt but I know the weird wobble around the weights is going to annoy me more and more and it's so cheap to buy I'll end up ripping it off and starting again, so if there's some special trick I'm missing please clue me in. What might work is saving the part with the weights for last and snapping the tab off the applicator. Or, if you're a pro, just doing it without the tab all around. I just did it by hand, like you. Towards the end of the roll it got kind of botched too as the tape had been so coiled up it didn't want to stay on the rim.
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Aug 18, 2015 17:05
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For a 2013 DRZ SM thinking of pilot power in the front and pilot power 2ct in the rear then since they stopped production of the regular pilot power size for the rear. What do you guys think? Or both Q3s. I mostly commute with the occasional twisty. Also, my rear tire slowly deflates over 3-4 days. Just going to replace the whole tire while I get it fixed. Leaky stem maybe?
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Aug 18, 2015 17:44
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2CT is just their trademark for dual compound tires. Why aren't you looking at Power 4s? You're most likely to get a fresh pair if you get the current model.
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Aug 18, 2015 17:53
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So I'm stationed in Bahrain, and bikes out here are hiked up like 6 times the price. I want a bike, and have a pretty drat good toolbag (thought I was bringing my car here), and have apprentice mechanical knowledge from working on my lovely 4runner's 3vze. There's also an idea stuck in my head that I should build a Honda CRF 250 from ebay parts. Please tell me how insane/good this idea is. If good, then please give me a few ideas of good resources for my impending journey of learning and bleeding fingertips.
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Aug 18, 2015 17:54
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After messing about with lightworks free and the free gopro studio I found the easiest is just to colour correct the clips I need with the gopro software then overlay graphs in virb.
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Aug 18, 2015 17:57
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X-post from the gear thread; Considering a Schuberth C3 for a new skid lid, has anyone had any experience with one? It's this one, http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/schuberth-c3-helmet
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Aug 18, 2015 21:14
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Outside Dawg posted:X-post from the gear thread; First and way the most important question - does it fit you properly? It's literally pointless to even ask any more if it doesn't. The only other observation I'd make is that for the thick end of 500 quid I'd want a helmet with a better safety rating than 3 stars.
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Aug 18, 2015 21:52
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Nostalgia4Dicks posted:For a 2013 DRZ SM thinking of pilot power in the front and pilot power 2ct in the rear then since they stopped production of the regular pilot power size for the rear. What do you guys think? Or both Q3s. I mostly commute with the occasional twisty. Yep, pilot power 1 in front and 2ct in rear. You could also try contiattacks, but for the money pilot powers are great. You can spray soapy water on the valve stem to see if it's leaking, but I would just order a new rear tube with the tires.
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Aug 18, 2015 22:47
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Outside Dawg posted:X-post from the gear thread; Have you considered the Nolan N104? http://sharp.direct.gov.uk/testsratings/nolan-n104
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Aug 18, 2015 23:30
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velocross posted:Yep, pilot power 1 in front and 2ct in rear. You could also try contiattacks, but for the money pilot powers are great. You can spray soapy water on the valve stem to see if it's leaking, but I would just order a new rear tube with the tires. Awesome, thanks. Seems like that's what people are doing now that they discontinued the PP 150. I ran the contiforce SM tires before but they wore fast Just called a local Ma and Pa shop. How's $360 for a 2ct rear and original pilot power in front? If I ride in and they do everything Nostalgia4Dogges fucked around with this message at 01:56 on Aug 19, 2015 |
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Aug 18, 2015 23:42
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Radbot posted:Have you considered the Nolan N104? http://sharp.direct.gov.uk/testsratings/nolan-n104 In truth no I had not considered a Nolan as when I started riding they were a $40 helmet you got through JC Whitney.
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Aug 19, 2015 02:47
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Nostalgia4Dicks posted:For a 2013 DRZ SM thinking of pilot power in the front and pilot power 2ct in the rear then since they stopped production of the regular pilot power size for the rear. What do you guys think? Or both Q3s. I mostly commute with the occasional twisty. I'm pretty happy with my Bridgestone S20 Evos that I got to replace the old pilot powers, but I can't comment on wear yet. Only about 300-400mi on them (no flat spots though)
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Aug 19, 2015 04:22
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Nostalgia4Dicks posted:Awesome, thanks. Seems like that's what people are doing now that they discontinued the PP 150. I ran the contiforce SM tires before but they wore fast Seems v.high to me. Do you know anyone that can change tires? If not, taking in the tires separate from the bike usually saves you major cash for minimal effort. E: Chaparral for instance has 2CT fronts for $100: http://www.chaparral-racing.com/product/michelin-pilot-power-2ct-radial-front-tire/190-03010100.aspx and rear pilot 3's in 150 for $150: http://www.chaparral-racing.com/product/michelin-pilot-road-3-radial-rear-tire/190-879780.aspx IMO you should be buying a soft front and harder/ more ST rear as opposed to vice versa. Others can weigh in on this but it's the best way to get even tire distribution imo. I have had both pilot 3's and 4's now and I don't think I'd say either are as "hard wearing" as some people claim but YMMV. I wouldn't be scared of a more ST-oriented rear tire. Baller Witness Bro fucked around with this message at 04:44 on Aug 19, 2015 |
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Aug 19, 2015 04:38
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My buddy's Kymco scooter has been acting up, particularly dying at idle when warm. We suspected a sticking auto-choke, but when we were going to test that we noticed that the stalling coincided with a complete loss of headlights (this bike should have a DRL-style light even with the engine off) so I took a look at the electrics. I saw unstable voltage at the battery, and intermittent voltage when measuring from a harness ground to the engine. The resistances across the generator looked good, so we took a look at the regulator/rectifier. The service manual provided the following table, and our measurements weren't even close. All values in kilo-ohms, and the asterisks would flash 16k ohm and then go to infinity.   I'm thinking this r/r is toast, but the manual specifies using some rando Japanese analog multimeter. Would using my Actron DMM throw off the values?
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Aug 19, 2015 05:46
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Boys who love boys
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On a scale of 1-10, one being "lol" and 10 being "Bwaaahahahaha!!", how bad an idea would this be? http://m.kijiji.ca/motorcycle-other/city-of-toronto/moto-guzzi-stornello-1964/v?adId=1095908023&ck=CK&from=Search&ts=1439997463134
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Aug 19, 2015 16:21
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Linedance posted:On a scale of 1-10, one being "lol" and 10 being "Bwaaahahahaha!!", how bad an idea would this be? You knew the answer before you even wrote this post. Do it.
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Aug 19, 2015 16:23
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Outside Dawg posted:In truth no I had not considered a Nolan as when I started riding they were a $40 helmet you got through JC Whitney. I like mine a lot, 100% made in Italy is kinda nice too (trying to buy as little from China as possible).
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Aug 19, 2015 16:29
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monsterzero posted:My buddy's Kymco scooter has been acting up, particularly dying at idle when warm. We suspected a sticking auto-choke, but when we were going to test that we noticed that the stalling coincided with a complete loss of headlights (this bike should have a DRL-style light even with the engine off) so I took a look at the electrics. I saw unstable voltage at the battery, and intermittent voltage when measuring from a harness ground to the engine. You always want to test the output on the electrical systems with the bike running, not the static values. Also bikes don't charge at idle, and its relatively normal for a bikes headlight to go off /come back on when it dies, depending on the bike wiring. Test the voltage with the bike running and revved and see if it's charging between 13.5 to 14.5v.
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Aug 19, 2015 16:30
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https://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf Much of this will be N/A for your application, but it may be instructive in terms of the overall process used to isolate charging failures.
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Aug 19, 2015 16:57
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Linedance posted:On a scale of 1-10, one being "lol" and 10 being "Bwaaahahahaha!!", how bad an idea would this be? Do it, feel the burn. I want to see some suffering.
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Aug 19, 2015 19:44
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Z3n posted:Also bikes don't charge at idle, That used to be true but doesn't seem to be the case any more, at least universally. The Shiver made a solid 14v at idle, as does my colleague's MT-01, and that's a pretty wide sample.
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Aug 19, 2015 19:50
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Yeah the Uly charges at idle too. I think it's more common on bikes they expect you to run at lower revs.
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Aug 19, 2015 19:55
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Baller Witness Bro posted:Seems v.high to me. Do you know anyone that can change tires? If not, taking in the tires separate from the bike usually saves you major cash for minimal effort. Ah yeah I figured that much. I really like supporting local shops especially ones with good reviews. We'l see. And I don't know apparently that's what a lot of people are doing and seems to work well enough for my needs (commuting with an occasional spirited ride) upwards of 5k miles apparently
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Aug 19, 2015 20:19
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Baller Witness Bro posted:IMO you should be buying a soft front and harder/ more ST rear as opposed to vice versa. Others can weigh in on this but it's the best way to get even tire distribution imo. I have had both pilot 3's and 4's now and I don't think I'd say either are as "hard wearing" as some people claim but YMMV. I wouldn't be scared of a more ST-oriented rear tire. One thing about the Road models is that they don't last nearly as long as advertised if you air them down.
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Aug 19, 2015 20:31
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Z3n posted:You always want to test the output on the electrical systems with the bike running, not the static values. Also bikes don't charge at idle, and its relatively normal for a bikes headlight to go off /come back on when it dies, depending on the bike wiring. Test the voltage with the bike running and revved and see if it's charging between 13.5 to 14.5v. Yeah, I get that. My DMM was basically a random number generator anytime it was reading volts from the bike, including from ground to engine. 16v, 10v, 80085v flashing randomly across the screen at idle and revved, increasing with RPM. I'm thinking the R/R is hosed because I'm not seeing the specified resistances across the pins, and most worryingly I'm seeing continuty between the AC phases (peach/yellow wires) and ground (green) which could explain why I was seeing the above. Marv Hushman posted:https://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf That's a pretty pro flowchart. Thanks.
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Aug 19, 2015 20:39
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Yes, I couldn't find the break even test for leaks on that one, so I believe my actual process was a mashup between the above and this, which is Honda SOHC-specific: http://www.motorcycleproject.com/text/SOHCcharging.html The bike in question will keep the SOHC forums busy and aftermarket sellers happy until it goes to a crusher. Or England, where they know how to tame these beasts.
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Aug 19, 2015 21:13
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You also might wanna check the flowchart all the way through even if you find a fault at the R/R. Sometimes a messy stator can break the R/R, and if you don't catch both errors you end up having to wait for 2 separate part delivers. That is not fun in the middle of the riding season. I managed to fall into that trap that last summer. The last test on the last page was the give away for my stator error.
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Aug 19, 2015 21:20
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Yeah, at this point the plan is to hand the r/r to the dealer this afternoon to confirm it's bad, and then bring the whole bike in to them under warranty. Whole thing is a mess because the local dealer is lame and charging $80 bucks diag that maybe you'll get back if it's covered by the warranty is a lot for a guy who's riding a Kymco 50 to swallow. Edit: Marv Hushman posted:The bike in question will keep the SOHC forums busy and aftermarket sellers happy until it goes to a crusher. Or England, where they know how to tame these beasts. 
monsterzero fucked around with this message at 22:51 on Aug 19, 2015 |
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Aug 19, 2015 22:43
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