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I went and got the Citadel pots of shades and painted the Sorceress today. This was a test in using proper shaders, painting some purple and painting a nonwhite skin color. I think the shading turned out good but I was impatient with the face and it shows. also, the prior red Wizard, the frog and this model were the first things I ever sprayed with primer and it was way too much. A lot of the original detail I kinda primered away.    I'm getting a little bored painting pieces for a game i'm not playing so next I'm actually gonna try to paint a warmachine figure
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Aug 18, 2015 04:41
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I seem to remember a link in this thread about premade grass and flower tufts for sale. The page was covered in grass texture or something. Does anybody know the site im talking about? Ive got some bolt acton to base and i think some flowers would help keep up morale
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Aug 18, 2015 08:30
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Speckled Jim posted:I seem to remember a link in this thread about premade grass and flower tufts for sale. The page was covered in grass texture or something. Does anybody know the site im talking about? Ive got some bolt acton to base and i think some flowers would help keep up morale
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Aug 18, 2015 08:41
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Thats the one, cheers!
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Aug 18, 2015 08:55
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Does anybody know when the Sotar 2020 is going to be back up on Amazon? Or is it a random thing
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Aug 18, 2015 13:42
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Hixson posted:Does anybody know when the Sotar 2020 is going to be back up on Amazon? Or is it a random thing Pretty random, but they might do it again in time for holiday sales. Just FYI, if you get stung for UK Customs (it could happen) and add in shipping from the US the cost is the same as just buying it from the Badger UK distributor (£125).
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Aug 18, 2015 14:15
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fleshy echidna posted:Does anyone have any advice for making a paint job on a shield look like it was done hastily by an illiterate peasant? I know that someone posted a valhallan army that had the sort of effect I'm looking for but any advice would be helpful. Those are mine. I have a really stiff, lovely brush and I use Citadel's dry white paint (Praxeti White) and just kinda jab and drybrush everything. Get a stiff, lovely brush and drybrush and stipple it on. Word of warning though, it will absolutely massacre your brush, so don't use a good one.
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Aug 18, 2015 17:31
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Hixson posted:Does anybody know when the Sotar 2020 is going to be back up on Amazon? Or is it a random thing I'll sell you mine if you are in the US and PM me. I never use it since I got my Badger 155
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Aug 18, 2015 18:45
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Are any of you UK guys going to a Forgeworld event in the near future? I found out there was a 2012 Event Skin Wolf model that I was hoping was still available. I'd love to get my hands on it for a non-Ebay price.
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Aug 18, 2015 18:52
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I can vouch that both Hixson and Signalnoise are two cool hetero dudes
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Aug 18, 2015 20:11
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What wonder chemical do I buy to make decals align nicely to space marine pauldrons? VVV: Thanks Pierzak fucked around with this message at 20:44 on Aug 18, 2015 |
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Aug 18, 2015 20:32
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Micro Sol TM
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Aug 18, 2015 20:38
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Has anyone here had any experience chopping up sprues and using them as random pipes and scrap metal? I think it might be a good idea, but I've thought that about a bunch of things that turned out to be mistakes.
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Aug 18, 2015 20:43
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berzerkmonkey posted:Are any of you UK guys going to a Forgeworld event in the near future? I found out there was a 2012 Event Skin Wolf model that I was hoping was still available. I'd love to get my hands on it for a non-Ebay price. I'm going to the Warhammer World weekend in October, happy to get more stuff for goons.
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Aug 18, 2015 20:46
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demota posted:Has anyone here had any experience chopping up sprues and using them as random pipes and scrap metal? I think it might be a good idea, but I've thought that about a bunch of things that turned out to be mistakes. If the sprue you have on-hand has rounded parts that look like pipes, go for it. A lot of people cut sprue up into tiny chunks for debris and then glue it down with sand. A hand-cranked meat grinder is actually perfect for this, because you can just feed it the leftover sprue and it takes like no time at all to get equal-sized debris. Just uh, don't use one if you've used it with meat before or plan to use it for meat later, for obvious sanitary reasons.
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Aug 18, 2015 21:32
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BULBASAUR posted:I can vouch that both Hixson and Signalnoise are two cool hetero dudes Oh. 
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Aug 18, 2015 22:21
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What's the current prevailing wisdom, should I prime minis black or white? Or does it really even matter?
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Aug 19, 2015 00:18
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Depends on what you want. White will give you brighter colors with less work, but if you miss a spot, it'll show up pretty obviously. Black is more forgiving in that regard, since the places you're likely to miss will be shadow areas anyway. However, it tends to mute the colors painted over it. Red and yellow especially are a huge pain with black. Grey is kind of an intermediate between the two. I personally like to do zenithal priming. Basically, prime black. Prime grey at about a 45 degree angle, then white at a 10 degree angle just overhead. basically pre-shades the mini for you.
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Aug 19, 2015 00:24
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krushgroove posted:I'm going to the Warhammer World weekend in October, happy to get more stuff for goons. OK, if I haven't found a cheap one by then, I'll PM you. Thanks!
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Aug 19, 2015 01:21
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Does anyone have any good guides on how to paint creatures that have black skin? I don't mean dark skin, I mean black like there is no color skin. I want to tackle some drow but not do it with purples and such like the reaper masters series and several others do. I want to get close to the original description for them and am just not sure how to do it. Just psi them the blackest of blacks and the do a little highlighting with white or grey? Their hair seems to have the same problem only in the complete opposite direction. Here is the original description for them:Gary Gygax" posted:Description: Drow are black skinned and pale haired. They are slight of build and have delicate fingers and toes. Their features are somewhat sharper and ears are pointed and large, but this does not make them unhandsome. Their eyes are very large, being all iris and pupil. Male drow are of thin build, about 5' tall, have dead black skin and dead white hair, and the irises of their eyes are orange to orange-yellow. Females are slender and shapely, about 5 1/2' tall, and have glossy black skin and shining silvery hair. The eyes of female Drow are amber, though a few are said to possess irises of lambent violet. This below fire giant is sort of an example of what I want to achieve, but not sure how to pull it off with drow. The skin is just the blackest of matte blacks, and it seems to be all the other details that make it look great IMO. The drown don't have such a lively contrast though and I am concerned it will look like I just slapped black on some parts, white on others and called it a day. Ideas or links?  http://belchedfromthedepths.blogspot.com/2014/11/dungeon-dwellers-fire-giant.html
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Aug 19, 2015 01:38
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Is there any guides to green stuffing seams focusing on organics? I'm picking up the Jacob Lynch crew box for my first Malifaux models but from what I've seen around online there's a really big seam the runs right down the middle of the model vertically for the Hungering Darkness
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Aug 19, 2015 01:40
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^^^: Oh right, that. gently caress the Huggy model. You want something round and flattish like the tip of those ergonomic brushes to smooth it. Also, be very very very careful with the build order for the mini-Huggy Illuminated. Paint the human, the parasite, and the parasite's arms separately, otherwise it's a major PITA to paint. Mask the contact surfaces with PVA glue or masking fluid before priming. Seriously, you don't want to paint that model inside-out. No, really. nesbit37 posted:Does anyone have any good guides on how to paint creatures that have black skin? I don't mean dark skin, I mean black like there is no color skin. I want to tackle some drow but not do it with purples and such like the reaper masters series and several others do. I want to get close to the original description for them and am just not sure how to do it. Just psi them the blackest of blacks and the do a little highlighting with white or grey? Their hair seems to have the same problem only in the complete opposite direction. Here is the original description for them: Pure black, RMS Noir Black as the first highlight (it's a very very dark graphite), then VMC German Grey. Both highlights using glaze medium. Pierzak fucked around with this message at 01:49 on Aug 19, 2015 |
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Aug 19, 2015 01:45
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tokyosexwale posted:What's the current prevailing wisdom, should I prime minis black or white? Or does it really even matter? JackMann says it how it is. If you need a tutorial on how to prime zenithal, check out my lovely blog (its a repost of what I wrote in this thread, just easier for people to find) http://www.powerfisted.com/?p=199
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Aug 19, 2015 02:28
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nesbit37 posted:The skin is just the blackest of matte blacks, and it seems to be all the other details that make it look great IMO. Vallejo Model Colour Black-Grey, highlighted with BG and a medium grey 50/50, then pure medium grey, then washed with black.
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Aug 19, 2015 03:51
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Why is the primer on this so loving bad, and how do I fix it?
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Aug 19, 2015 05:31
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It dried before hitting the model, the only way to fix it is to strip it, unfortunately.
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Aug 19, 2015 05:33
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MasterSlowPoke posted:It dried before hitting the model, the only way to fix it is to strip it, unfortunately. I sprayed it at room temperature from about 12 inches away, is that wrong?
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Aug 19, 2015 06:12
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Mugaaz posted:I sprayed it at room temperature from about 12 inches away, is that wrong? Could be the can or the nozzle. I had a lovely can of citadel spray back in the day that would fuzz no matter what temperature or humidity I sprayed it at.
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Aug 19, 2015 06:22
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Dr. VooDoo posted:Is there any guides to green stuffing seams focusing on organics? Clay sharpers and lots of lube.
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Aug 19, 2015 06:23
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Mugaaz posted:I sprayed it at room temperature from about 12 inches away, is that wrong? Sometimes it's just a bad can. I had a bad can of krylon that coated on like sticky black tar no matter how much I shook it. Using spray cans sucks because sometimes you just can't fix it.
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Aug 19, 2015 06:36
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Try holding the can closer to the model.
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Aug 19, 2015 06:58
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The can itself should tell you the appropriate distance; AP white primer, for example, actually says 'no more than 8 inches' IIRC. Also, yeah, for the rpimer question - the primer you want to use depends on the kinds of models you're painting. White: Good for bright, cheery colors (white, yellow, red, orange, light blues - Eldar, in particular). Pairs well with more organic shapes and miniatures like Tyranids, fabric, bare skin/flesh. Bad for metallics. Responds particularly well to washes. The 'hard' option. Black: Good for dark, dull, muted colors. Recommended for color schemes with plenty of metallic colors (see, drybrushing). Bad for bright colors, especially red, white and yellow. Works well with drybrushing. The 'easy mode'. Gray: A dull neutral gray primer is the middle-of-the-road pick - works equally well with everything, doesn't really favor anything else. If you want one can that can do (sort of) everything, go for gray. Color primer: The 'easy way out' if you have miniatures that have plenty of particular color.
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Aug 19, 2015 08:06
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I want to add some snow to my Frostgrave bases, but I just can't find any Woodland Scenics anywhere around here. What's the best alternative? I could probably get some Noch snow from one of the local model train stores, but I don't know if it's any good.
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Aug 19, 2015 09:20
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I had a can of recently purchased Rusto grey primer that worked amazingly on the first batch of models and fuzzed up on the second batch. I have no idea what's going on there, but if I have to buy a new can at least it's cheap.
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Aug 19, 2015 14:35
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Dr. VooDoo posted:Is there any guides to green stuffing seams focusing on organics? I'm picking up the Jacob Lynch crew box for my first Malifaux models but from what I've seen around online there's a really big seam the runs right down the middle of the model vertically for the Hungering Darkness If you have magic sculpt use some water to dilute the mixture slightly till its more paste-like in consistency. I find that helps.
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Aug 19, 2015 15:39
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Electric Hobo posted:I want to add some snow to my Frostgrave bases, but I just can't find any Woodland Scenics anywhere around here. What's the best alternative? I could probably get some Noch snow from one of the local model train stores, but I don't know if it's any good. I use Gale Force Nine's snow, which you can usually find at a hobby shop, but it's basically repackaged Woodland Scenics stuff for more money. Have you tried any crafts stores like Michael's? There's a chance they'd have Woodland Scenics stuff in their modelmaking sections. Their website at least shows bags of grass and stands of trees and stuff.
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Aug 19, 2015 16:04
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SRM posted:I use Gale Force Nine's snow, which you can usually find at a hobby shop, but it's basically repackaged Woodland Scenics stuff for more money. Have you tried any crafts stores like Michael's? There's a chance they'd have Woodland Scenics stuff in their modelmaking sections. Their website at least shows bags of grass and stands of trees and stuff. I should probably have said that I'm in Denmark. We only have one chain of hobby shops and it's no good. But I can get Gale Force Nine stuff, so I'll go for that. Thanks.
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Aug 19, 2015 16:30
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I thought that a krylon primer actually had some texture to them? Since when priming larger things the texture is helping your subsequent layers adhere, but when dealing with minis the texture is just destroying the detail? Or something...
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Aug 19, 2015 17:26
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Super 3 posted:I thought that a krylon primer actually had some texture to them? Since when priming larger things the texture is helping your subsequent layers adhere, but when dealing with minis the texture is just destroying the detail? Or something... There are textured primers you can get, but the "tooth' that primers have for paint to bond to is actually super duper fine and you can't really see it with the naked eye. I've been using Krylon for years, and aside from the specific textured can I did get (solely for terrain) I've never had any texture on anything I've sprayed.
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Aug 19, 2015 17:28
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I'm still really sloppy, but definitely improving.  Has anyone had any luck with using some kind of magnifiers? When I zoom in on the photos I take, I can see exactly what I've done wrong, but otherwise it's nearly impossible.
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Aug 19, 2015 17:41
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