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It's probably calling for mum or the rest of its litter. Give it something to cuddle when you're not there
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Aug 18, 2015 11:13
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Ariony posted:Wasn't sure if this was worthy of a separate thread - probably not. Congrats on your new rear end in a top hat Ask the vet about some general care things to watch for. If the cat can already eat food other than cat formula(do not feed cats cow milk), you may want to get a small heated bed or some other "warm area" setup for the kitten.
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Aug 18, 2015 13:01
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duckfarts posted:Generally, the diffuser should be better; it's meant to cover an area, and for prolonged periods of time. The spray is more for temporary solutions, or for spraying specific things, like a carrier. What if we have issues in multiple places in the house? (2 story). Move the diffuser or we have to buy another?
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Aug 18, 2015 16:38
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Irritated Goat posted:What if we have issues in multiple places in the house? (2 story). Move the diffuser or we have to buy another? If the cats are going to hang out on the other floor too, buy another.
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Aug 19, 2015 02:59
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My cat hates his carrier a lot, which is not surprising because the carrier is what happens immediately before the vet happens, and my cat hates being handled by strangers so he hates the vet a lot. Things I have tried: 1. Putting treats inside the carrier, which he ignores. 2. Giving treats before entering and/or after leaving the carrier, which has no effect. 3. Putting his meals inside the carrier; he eats a hurried mouthful at a time and still hates the carrier. 4. Putting his favourite toy in the carrier with him. 5. All the stuff about not forcing him into the carrier: letting him go in it at his own pace, etc. The carrier itself is clearly not the issue, since when we first got it he used to go in no problem. It's soft-sided and comfy and he at one time would contentedly take naps in it. Then he learned to associate it with going to the vet and here we are. Any thoughts? I have to take him to the vet tomorrow and I'm dreading trying to put him in.
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Aug 19, 2015 15:45
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Dogfish posted:My cat hates his carrier a lot, which is not surprising because the carrier is what happens immediately before the vet happens, and my cat hates being handled by strangers so he hates the vet a lot. I just hog-tie them (grab their front and back legs) so they can't squirm, and jam them in. I don't really care if they like it, they have to go anyway. You could also burrito them in a towel and leave the towel in there. The time it takes to get free will be enough to get the door closed.
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Aug 19, 2015 15:48
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Deteriorata posted:I just hog-tie them (grab their front and back legs) so they can't squirm, and jam them in. I don't really care if they like it, they have to go anyway. "Put the cat in a towel" sounds like such good advice for situations like this one, nail clipping, etc. except I can't get my drat cat in a towel!! How do you do it?? Every time I try I end up with an empty towel and a very angry cat.
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Aug 19, 2015 15:58
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Just grab angry cat and hold their legs and put them in.
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Aug 19, 2015 16:03
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Dogfish posted:The carrier itself is clearly not the issue, since when we first got it he used to go in no problem. It's soft-sided and comfy and he at one time would contentedly take naps in it. Then he learned to associate it with going to the vet and here we are. My cats came to hate their carriers after we moved house - they spent several hours in the car in the carriers and hated every second of it. Now what we do to get them in is pick them up and roll them into a lil ball/like a baby with their back facing the ground and lower them into the carrier from above so they can't splay their paws out. As long as they're relatively calm and you pop them in quick enough to avoid them twisting around to get their paws in play, it works pretty well. Obviously though, it only works if your cat will tolerate being held like that(mine will, but Cinnamon has a generally very low tolerance for being held if she's not in the mood so you have to be quick) and it's much easier with a top-loading carrier. Whatever you do, don't just try and force them in without somehow keeping their legs out of action. I have a long white scar on one of my fingers from impatiently trying to squash a very agitated cat into his carrier paws-first. Once they plant their feet around the carrier door: you're done, start over and try again. floofyscorp fucked around with this message at 16:10 on Aug 19, 2015 |
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Aug 19, 2015 16:06
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I've had a much easier time with the cheap cardboard carriers because they're top loading and closing them doesn't invite the cat to scratch the poo poo out of you. Pick up cat. quickly shove him in, close carrier. He hates it but it's usually not much of a struggle.
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Aug 19, 2015 16:09
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Holding the legs is the missing puzzle piece here I think. I have tried shoving him in but he spread-eagles so it's looking like I just need to try the ol hog tie trick. Thanks all.
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Aug 19, 2015 16:32
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Or get a top loading cat carrier as said above, they work great. I have this one: http://www.amazon.com/Petmate-24-In...ers+top+opening
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Aug 19, 2015 16:36
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Puppy Galaxy posted:I've had a much easier time with the cheap cardboard carriers because they're top loading and closing them doesn't invite the cat to scratch the poo poo out of you. Pick up cat. quickly shove him in, close carrier. He hates it but it's usually not much of a struggle. We tried that and our cat ate her way out in about 3m
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Aug 19, 2015 16:37
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goodness posted:We tried that and our cat ate her way out in about 3m I should clarify, my cat is a stupid idiot and would die in there if I left him to his own devices.
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Aug 19, 2015 16:38
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Puppy Galaxy posted:I should clarify, my cat is a stupid idiot and would die in there if I left him to his own devices. It's interesting how some cats have very different reactions to being 'trapped'. Some, like my Cinnamon, will scrabble at boxes and push open doors and will not tolerate having anything draped over her. Others, like her brother, will just lie down and wait for the end. I sometimes drape a bedsheet over him for fun and he just... sits there. He accepts his lot in life very quickly, that one. Not the smartest.
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Aug 19, 2015 17:08
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My favorite thing to do is throw sheets over our cats and see how they react.
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Aug 19, 2015 17:59
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Dogfish posted:My cat hates his carrier a lot, which is not surprising because the carrier is what happens immediately before the vet happens, and my cat hates being handled by strangers so he hates the vet a lot. That's the opposite timing you'd want for conditioning, so yeah, no effect. You need to break the relationship between the carrier and the vet. Put him in the carrier, give him treats once he's inside, pet him, play with him, let him out. Really, really brief at first, then gradually longer. Leave the carrier out more often. Will he chase toys or play in/around carrier with you? I've had mine chase da bird into it.
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Aug 19, 2015 21:17
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Dienes posted:That's the opposite timing you'd want for conditioning, so yeah, no effect. I should clarify that he gets treats inside the carrier as well, just that I've also (ineffectively) tried to coax him in/out with treats. We leave the carrier in the living room all the time as it is but I will try making it the centre of playtime. We have a nightly game of chase-the-toy so that shouldn't be too difficult. He has a little squeaky bird that he will chase anywhere, even close to the dreaded vacuum, so that should work. Drythe posted:Or get a top loading cat carrier as said above, they work great. My carrier is top-loading, which he has effectively foiled in the past by spread-eagling but now hoping that holding his legs will do the trick!
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Aug 20, 2015 03:48
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I asked earlier about how to re-introduce a cat to a cat tree after fleas, and a catnip spray was suggested. We tried the catnip spray (had to go to a few stores to find it), but as I suspected, Tiger isn't susceptible to catnip at all. We tried regular catnip as well, but she just sniffs it, and does.. nothing out of the ordinary. She's just not interested at all. She's sleeping on the bed again though. Too bad I can't sleep on the cat tree :P As for those wondering about the fish head adventure, I guess I'm feeding her well enough, since she only sniffed it, and started batting at some bug. Though she was interested in the cooked fish  Anyways, how to re-introduce a cat to a cat tree without catnip? And without fattening her on treats.. BF tries that, but she'll just grab the treat and carry it off. Heh, smart kitty.
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Aug 20, 2015 05:53
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Vampess posted:I asked earlier about how to re-introduce a cat to a cat tree after fleas, and a catnip spray was suggested. We tried the catnip spray (had to go to a few stores to find it), but as I suspected, Tiger isn't susceptible to catnip at all. We tried regular catnip as well, but she just sniffs it, and does.. nothing out of the ordinary. She's just not interested at all. Try Feliway Its happy kitty pheromones in a spray, calms them down and (sometimes) keeps them from mauling/spraying on your stuff. I sprayed it liberally almost everywhere and kitty was super chill within an hour of moving into my new place.
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Aug 20, 2015 07:05
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Ok, thanks! I'll try to find it (Seriously, we live in bumfuck nowhere here, it's a miracle we found a catnip spray) I guess we can order it online if need be. She generally sits on my lap these days, with my legs crossed, because there's not much lap to begin with, and then my leg goes asleep. I mean, I love her dearly, but my leg's going to fall off one of these days :P She used to really love the cat tree. She still uses it as a scratch post, but that's about it. I'll see about getting Feliway, thanks again!
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Aug 20, 2015 07:46
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You may have to accept that the answer is she's a cat Maybe one day she will like it again, maybe she will find a bit of string. Who knows with cats
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Aug 20, 2015 12:27
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All this feliway chat reminded me that I needed to get a refill. There's a six pack of refills available on Amazon for $60, and it's prime-eligible. Thought that might be helpful for the thread.
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Aug 20, 2015 14:37
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I just moved in with my boyfriend and we're about to introduce my cat to his cats, so I think we'll pick up some Feliway. He's introduced cats before so I'm not too worried about the process, but anything that will make it smoother will help! I also just flew with my cat across the country and it was SO much easier than I was expecting! A friend suggested Rescue Remedy and I thought it sounded like some hippie nonsense, but I tested it on her before we went to the vet and she was super cuddly after I gave it to her and very calm at the vet. She was also super chill at the airport, and the most upset she got were the few moments we were on the plane and I didn't have my hand in her carrier for comfort. I was super worried about taking her out of the carrier for TSA (I had a harness on her and everything) but she just clung to me while my hands were swabbed and hopped in the carrier immediately to get away from the scary crowd. Not sure if it was Rescue Remedy or her just bonding with me a ton, but it sure beats the last cloth carrier that she ripped open in 10 minutes and spent the rest of the hour car ride desperately yowling and clawing at me.
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Aug 20, 2015 15:01
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My "cat you go in carrier now plz" epiphany was TGIF - Tail Goes In First. For whatever reason, once their tail went in, the rest of them tightened up and they went right in. Tip the carrier vertical if it's not a top loader.
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Aug 20, 2015 15:45
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Litter questions/issues : Using A&H Multi-Cat is the best in terms of smell, I've found. But it's clumping clay so dust + cannot flush. Using World's Best is best in terms of no dust, and flushable. But it just doesn't stop the smell like A&H does! Is there a cat litter out there that blocks smell as well as Arm&Hammer, but is flushable and thus more convenient? Deviant posted:My "cat you go in carrier now plz" epiphany was TGIF - Tail Goes In First. For me I put her back to the carrier and put my hand over her eyes. She'll instinctively back right in trying to get away from the hand. It's like all those videos of cats trying to get away from a piece of cheese/ham on their face. khy fucked around with this message at 17:07 on Aug 20, 2015 |
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Aug 20, 2015 17:03
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Having a small issue with my girlfriend's adorable 3 month old kitten. It's a night yowler. She adopted it at about 4 weeks old. The first few nights, it was expected; it was a new and unfamiliar place, and the people he'd been playing with constantly suddenly went away. So he'd go nuts throughout the night, we'd ignore him to try to get him to break the habit, and we'd eventually get 3 or 4 hours of not very good sleep before getting up in the morning. Such is life with a kitten. Now, the kitten tends to let us sleep through the night, with a caveat: If any of us gets out of bed for any reason, the kitten will hear it no matter where he is in the house (the floors are very creaky and sound travels well through the house), run up to the door, and start his "let me in" routine. This means if we have to use the bathroom, adjust a fan, open/close a window, whatever, it basically guarantees about 15 minutes of loud moaning while the cat pokes his nose under the door and scratches. The obvious answer is to just take care of everything before we settle in for the night, and we do try to do that as much as we can. We don't want to reinforce this behavior, though, so how can we avoid giving the impression that meowing = door opens in the mornings when we have to leave for work or use the bathroom in the middle of the night? It's a small nuisance, but one that's been driving us bonkers lately.
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Aug 20, 2015 18:37
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Feliway is supposed to help with excessive meowing. Out of curiosity though, why not just let the cat sleep in the room with you?
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Aug 20, 2015 18:50
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 Within an hour or two or feliway, Kaylee and Jayne stayed in the same room with no growling or hissing for a couple of hours. We let them out together again near the end of the evening and they watched each other but no noise!  This is the best stuff! I'm interested in the litter question as well. We're using world's best and it doesn't do much for smell like the bad stuff does. We don't ever flush it so I wonder if A&H would be perfect for us.
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Aug 20, 2015 19:20
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Puppy Galaxy posted:Feliway is supposed to help with excessive meowing. Out of curiosity though, why not just let the cat sleep in the room with you? Didn't think of using Feliway, but I'll ask the girlfriend if she wants to give that a shot. We don't want the cat sleeping with us because we're actually both allergic. It's fine in the open areas of the house, but once the little guy gets all up in our faces (and oh how he loves to attack our faces while we're trying to sleep) for more than a few minutes, it's an all-night wheezefest.
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Aug 20, 2015 19:22
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Irritated Goat posted:
The problems I run into with A&H are the unflushability and the dust. It manages smell AMAZINGLY, you would not believe how good it is with handling smell. But the dust/flush makes it difficult for me personally to use it...
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Aug 20, 2015 19:31
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My cat Tucker is having possible allergy issues in his ear. Vet suggested hypoallergenic diet. Vet also said that not all over the counter cat foods are hypoallergenic even though the label says so. Anyone else having cat allergy issues, and can suggest a true hypoallergenic cat food?
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Aug 20, 2015 19:50
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Bina posted:My cat Tucker is having possible allergy issues in his ear. Vet suggested hypoallergenic diet. Cats can be allergic to all kinds of stuff, so the only way to know is to have him tested. Hypoallergenic would generally mean something with relatively few ingredients, to minimize the odds of hitting something sensitive. No guarantees that one of the remaining ingredients is safe, though. For example, one of our cats is allergic to corn, so grain-free would seem a natural fit, but she's also allergic to pork (with minor reactions to a few more) so we have to be really careful with ingredient lists to ensure it's OK for her. Getting food that is that specific on its contents is also expensive, but it's cheaper than the allergy medication she was on so overall it's worth the cost.
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Aug 20, 2015 19:55
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Deteriorata posted:Cats can be allergic to all kinds of stuff, so the only way to know is to have him tested. Tucker had blood drawn, cause he's now considered a SENIOR.  I hope the tests come back showing negative on allergy. 
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Aug 20, 2015 20:00
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Not a Children posted:Having a small issue with my girlfriend's adorable 3 month old kitten. A vacuum cleaner. Teach him that scratching or poking under the door will result in loud scary things. Or buy an SSSCat and put it beside your door at night, so when he goes near he gets blasted. Both should stop the behavior quick.
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Aug 20, 2015 20:17
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Had to put down my old lady today. She was 20 but creaking around and eating PetSure okay for the past few months. But according to my stepdad she started wobbling and falling over and not doing well the past few days, and it reached a point where she couldn't hop up and get to the sink where she liked to drink water from the tap or get up and down stairs, and she hasn't peed in a long time or eaten more than a few licks of PetSure. So we had to let her go, and I've been doing the covert desk cry all day while I arranged everything. We got her euthanized at home for her sake, and are getting her cremated for mine. I spent way too much on a nice wood box. I don't know. I'm having a lot of feelings and I feel like this thread understands all of them.
Nicol Bolas fucked around with this message at 23:06 on Aug 20, 2015 |
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Aug 20, 2015 21:05
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mcbagpipes posted:I rescued a 4 week old kitten and introduced her to a 3 year old black lab and its gone well. The kitten in now 5 months old. From a couple pages back but I adopted a 3 year old cat almost a year ago and my roommate has a 6 year old black lab. They seem to have communication problems. When the lab wants to play she'll lung back and forth and bark at the cat trying to get him to play and the cat will just lay down and make a belly trap. When the cat wants to play he'll do some swipes at the lab with his paws and the lab will just growl and move to another spot. Other then those instances they pretty much ignore each other.
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Aug 20, 2015 23:22
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Bina posted:Tucker had blood drawn, cause he's now considered a SENIOR. Unfortunately a routine senior panel doesn't check for allergies. Dermatologists can do skin tests for environmental allergies, but for food allergies, unfortunately the only way to really tell is through a food trial. That means switching food to a completely different one, and only eating that one for 2 months. A hypoallergenic diet would be the best for that (I feed my cat with food allergies Royal Canin HP) but the first thing I do before I go to hypoallergenic is usually just try a novel protein diet, so use a food with a protein that your cat has never eaten before - common ones to try are lamb, rabbit, venison, or even kangaroo. The over-the-counter ones aren't as guaranteed as the veterinary prescription ones just because the quality control won't be quite as good and there's a higher risk of cross-contamination.
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Aug 21, 2015 01:13
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I have a white cat who can't stop biting her tail. The vet tested for fungal infection. Negative. Fleas...negative. Bacterial infection...negative. So I'm thinking it's either a food allergy or a litter allergy. I've been using the same food and litter her whole life since we've had her (she's 3, we got her at 1.). This has only been going on past 6 months or so. The food is Solid Gold Indigo Moon. The litter is tidy cat multi cat. Any opinions? The vet doesn't know what the gently caress and doesn't think it's a food allergy because it's only her tail.
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Aug 21, 2015 01:45
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It wouldn't hurt to do a food trial, because if it doesn't work then at least you've ruled it out. It's actually more common for food allergies to develop as an adult, especially when they're on the same food their whole life - it takes time to develop this sort of allergy.
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Aug 21, 2015 02:57
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