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I've got a question for the colour experts out there. A few years back, I picked up a complete box of the New Citadel paints on sale, and it's been awesome, having access to tons of colours has definitely levelled up my paintwork. However, now that i've had a taste, I can't shake the feeling that there are things i'm missing out on - especially noticeable in the lackluster selection of reds and pinks. Dakka's paint range chart seems to mostly just cover old citadel -> new-citadel-or-other-brands, and it doesn't have the rest of the new-citadel range, nor - I'm assuming - the complete range from Vallejo or P3 or etc. Are there any resources like this that would be useful as a "what you're missing out on by only having Citadel paints"? Or, hell, even matching new-citadel colours with alternatives from other companies? I've already ordered some dropper bottles off Aliexpress, for which I'll post a trip report if they end up being decent.
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Aug 19, 2015 18:12
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| # ? May 9, 2024 15:27 |
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IMO, and not to be a pain, the adherence to a paint 'range' is one of the stumbling blocks to getting better at painting. Let's take a hypothetical. You're painting what I assume is a squadron of Fanta bottles with the new bodacious flavor 'Warp Orgasm'. You know, deep in your bones, that the color "tentacle merengue" is excessively magenta, while "Lich underboob" is not nearly too not purple enough. You decide to mix these chemicals in a volatile concoction, the result of which is a refreshing blast of madness. You paint 3/4s of your fanta bottles in this admixture of mad genius, and then run out or what's left is too dry to use. You then have to recapture the color. But you can't! You gnash your teeth. You beat your head against the Venetian blinds of your spare room, like a zoo-maddened wild ape. You try to paint the new bottles in this new, subtly different, and therefore bad color, and you end up with several bottles of similar, but clearly distinctly different tones. You've just fallen prey to the consistency delusion. Look at your paints. Now look at me. Now look at your paints. Now look back at me. That beauty? That inherent majesty and sensual promise of raw art in your hands is, at least partially, the result of all the colors sitting next to each other. Take each bottle one at a time into a completely empty white room harshly lit with fluorescent light from above, and each one will be a disappointment. They are stronger together! Hybrid vigor! First, being able to adjust a color to match another color is a skill. And it's a *good* skill. A skill worth practicing to get better at targeting an artificial lighting scheme or even just managing subtle compliments. Begin your training. Then, look at your goal. Is each fanta bottle meant to be a relatively consistent, and similar color? Is it?! Or should they subtly display a gradient, or perhaps a daring contrast in a narrow range between Violet and Iris, flushing into a erotic Orchid in the full flush of blooming? Perhaps a saturation shift from one side of the bottle to the other? Each bottle a subtle expression of possibility! Each member of your squadron a unique individual, despite being made of identical metal or plastic shapes! As you stare, gaze widening into the maw of your own perception turned in upon itself, dare to imagine, a world where you achieve a new palette with each project. Never to be recreated. Never to be revisited. A million upon million new moments of creation in every brush stroke. I mean, obviously, get a set of paints you like. But IMO see how far you can get with what you've got. It's just paying someone else to mix acrylics for you, anyway, unless you're talking about solvents or exotic pigments. Like blood diamonds suspended in virgin tears (a subtle color, not particularly useful, frankly. And WAY overpriced!).
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Aug 19, 2015 18:40
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My favorite paints are my favorites not because of their colors but instead because of their other properties. Thinness, adherence, opacity, all that stuff matters much much more than getting exactly the same color of paint on a dude in my opinion.
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Aug 19, 2015 19:07
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TCM that's an awesome little practice thingy there, scored an 8.7 and i'll be going back to keep sharp and increase the score. I appreciate the advice, but the reason i'm looking to add more colours is more to do with what I'm usually painting than a difficulty getting the same colour, though I'll admit that it does gnaw at me if two troopers are standing next to each other and have slightly different shades of what should be identically painted armor. My reason for preferring premixes is because most of the time I'm batch-painting a squad of guys while watching TV; my brain is turned off and I'm following a predetermined workflow of which colours to use when. I don't mind mixing or blending for unique characters, but it's a nuisance when doing the production-line grunts. Having more colours means being able to use them in that kind of situation without needing to mix paint at two or three steps on 50 different models, and most importantly, I figure that if I'm going to try paints from other ranges, they might as well be ones that are different to what I already own.
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Aug 19, 2015 19:35
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The only GW paints I miss are flip-top bolter shell Catachan Green and Foundation Iyanden Darksun. When mine run out, i'll probably cry.
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Aug 19, 2015 19:44
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Silhouette posted:The only GW paints I miss are flip-top bolter shell Catachan Green and Foundation Iyanden Darksun. When mine run out, i'll probably cry. I pour out a bit of wash each time I paint in memory of my old pot of Charadon Granite, my favorite paint. It was a curious mutant greenbrowngray that seemed to just work well with anything. http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2012/05/my-replacement-for-charadon-granite.html
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Aug 19, 2015 20:10
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Back when there were paint pots similar to today's P3's there was a color known as Warlock Purple. It was the loving best because it coated decent, but more importantly, it was thin and allowed you to layer the color perfectly and blended nicely. It was also a great all around color.
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Aug 19, 2015 20:14
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Boon posted:Back when there were paint pots similar to today's P3's there was a color known as Warlock Purple. It was the loving best because it coated decent, but more importantly, it was thin and allowed you to layer the color perfectly and blended nicely. Coat D'Arms. That should be your first stop when you're missing old Citadel colors. They don't have everything (they don't currently have Nebal's charadon granite), but they have a lot of the old colors. It's the exact same formula used. Sometimes the names are a bit different (Magic Metal vs. Tin Bitz), but its the same stuff. Warlock Purple is CDA paint 157.
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Aug 19, 2015 20:20
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Painted my son's bus with a red pattern to match the ones in our city: Learned a few things on the technical side: Vallejo air is more transparant than I thought. I just sprayed red over the black lettering. Tamia masking tape is incredible. Microsol varnish can take a beating.
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Aug 19, 2015 21:09
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This isn't to do with miniatures per se, but there's a lot of expertise in this thread about varnishes and spray coatings and such, so I thought I'd ask. I have made some custom dice by buying blank d8s then putting stickers on the blank faces. Works well but the problem is that the stickers are starting to come off through use. What is the strongest sealant I could use on the dice to "seal" the stickers in while maintaining a clear coat?
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Aug 19, 2015 21:46
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Nebalebadingdong posted:I pour out a bit of wash each time I paint in memory of my old pot of Charadon Granite, my favorite paint. It was a curious mutant greenbrowngray that seemed to just work well with anything. This is my favorite paint ever. Found a retail pack of six on eBay a couple years ago that I keep sealed and protected like rare jewels or some poo poo. Such a great paint. That and Asurmen Blue wash are the two discontinued paints essential for my trolls. I can probably replace the blue wash but Charadon is irreplaceable.
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Aug 19, 2015 22:14
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Unzip and Attack posted:This isn't to do with miniatures per se, but there's a lot of expertise in this thread about varnishes and spray coatings and such, so I thought I'd ask. Many swear by Future floor finish
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Aug 19, 2015 22:18
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Unzip and Attack posted:This isn't to do with miniatures per se, but there's a lot of expertise in this thread about varnishes and spray coatings and such, so I thought I'd ask. My first thought was clear nail polish 
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Aug 19, 2015 22:24
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Both of those should work, no problem. I prefer future because it doesn't smell as bad and cleans up easier. Give it a few thick coats and it should hold up for a good long while.
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Aug 19, 2015 23:06
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Fyrbrand posted:...but Charadon is irreplaceable. there's a P3 paint that isn't 100% perfectly identical, but it's about as close a match as you're going to get out of the pot. Unfortunately I've forgotten the name of it. It might be bastion grey, I'd go look at my paints to find out but they're out in the shed and I'm inside and it's late. I did a comparison pic on a piece of old sprue for someone ages back, either in this thread or another around here:  Like I said, it's not perfect but when the pots are sat side by side, they look pretty drat close.
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Aug 19, 2015 23:34
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Working on some snow bases for Frostgrave  Aplogies for poor quality pics. Will post some better ones when the light is better The snow is made using equal parts Sodium bicarbonate mixed with Vallejo white 70951. This creates a paste which seems to dry totally without the need for PVA Cant decide between black or grey rims Black looks clean. but the grey makes the black stone pop better imo
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Aug 20, 2015 00:04
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Moola posted:Working on some snow bases for Frostgrave They look really good dude. I did some snow bases a while back with Sodium Bicarbonate and PVA glue. I noticed yellowing around the edges less than a couple days later. Maybe you'll have better luck with the white paint! Also black rimmed bases for everything forever.
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Aug 20, 2015 00:42
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thanks dude yeah I tried it with PVA on a test run and had the same problem too
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Aug 20, 2015 00:45
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Oh I forgot to post the process: Lots of GW stirland mud on the base, or a piece of cork alternatively Wash with Badab Black Drybrush with GW Dawnstone grey layer paint Apply snow paste by blopping a large blop down at a point, then brush away from that point creating a splatter effect Varnish
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Aug 20, 2015 00:57
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Fyrbrand posted:I can probably replace the blue wash but Charadon is irreplaceable. Try Vallejo's Heavy Charcoal.
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Aug 20, 2015 01:19
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enri posted:there's a P3 paint that isn't 100% perfectly identical, but it's about as close a match as you're going to get out of the pot. Unfortunately I've forgotten the name of it. It might be bastion grey, I'd go look at my paints to find out but they're out in the shed and I'm inside and it's late. You're probably thinking Thornwood Green. It's a close enough match. adamantium|wang posted:Try Vallejo's Heavy Charcoal. Not really the same. It's really more a dark grey-black than anything else.
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Aug 20, 2015 01:29
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I painted my first Warmachine mini. It was fun, if a bit more time-consuming than the Talisman figures.  Only part I don't like is the metal backpack thing, for some reason it got real blobby then it got roughed up by superglue when i was trying to stick the rocket on there.
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Aug 20, 2015 02:49
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Cross post from the oath thread. Happy with how the 10mm flaming ent turned out, though painting the terrain material I used for leaves wasn't as smooth as I would have liked.      
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Aug 20, 2015 03:04
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Seal your snow bases made with baking soda with some varnish. Otherwise you'll see it turn to a piss yellow color in a few years.
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Aug 20, 2015 03:45
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I'm trying to find a ~28mm miniature of a generic modern day male office or IT worker. Basically just some dude in a button up shirt, preferably no glasses, no weapons or anything fancy or at least something that couldn't be cut off and sculpted to replace. I thought one of the zombie games might have had something like this but I haven't had much luck so far. Any ideas?
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Aug 20, 2015 03:52
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Hasslefree might have something. I know there's a dude matching that description in the Mars Attacks game but he's holding a raygun.
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Aug 20, 2015 03:58
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Slimnoid posted:You're probably thinking Thornwood Green. It's a close enough match. Yeah, Thornwood is the closest match, especially if I mix in Codex Grey or something similar. Luckily I won't have to bother with that anymore for a very long time now. 
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Aug 20, 2015 04:04
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nesbit37 posted:Cross post from the oath thread. Happy with how the 10mm flaming ent turned out, though painting the terrain material I used for leaves wasn't as smooth as I would have liked. Oh my god. That poo poo looks so great, it's not noticably 10mm. Can we see a photo with like an eraser for scale. The flaming ent is amazing.
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Aug 20, 2015 04:10
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nesbit37 posted:Cross post from the oath thread. Happy with how the 10mm flaming ent turned out, though painting the terrain material I used for leaves wasn't as smooth as I would have liked. my eyes hurt just thinking about the focus it would take to do that fire on a 10mm model edit: moola is diversifying his bases and is putting powdered sugar on top of his brownies now 
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Aug 20, 2015 04:24
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Slimnoid posted:You're probably thinking Thornwood Green. It's a close enough match. That's the one! 
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Aug 20, 2015 06:23
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So I visited the mancave last night and snapped 'some' pictures. Apologies for the quality, I had to use the flash and it kind of distorts the colors - I was in a hurry, next time I'll lay them out in the gaming table and see if a more natural lighting won't help.                     The Typhon isn't mine, but a friend's - I like the conversion, even if it's a little bit smaller than an 'actual' Typhon.
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Aug 20, 2015 08:31
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I've got a interest in adding some words to my UCM drop-ships for Dropzone commander - but I'm worried my attempts to paint words on will look terrible. Does anyone do a pack of white letters about 2-3mm in height? That or any other suggestions. Basically, I want to add some Vietnam era names to my craft to help differentiate them.  The thing in the Center is my Phoenix Gunship (with my commander in it), and its just crying out for "Puff the Magic Dragon" or "Spooky" along the side or on the sensor dish......
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Aug 20, 2015 14:11
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hooman posted:Oh my god. That poo poo looks so great, it's not noticably 10mm. Can we see a photo with like an eraser for scale. Thanks! I'll get a photo up with something to show scale soon, possibly tonight. These guys are all 10mm scale, but obviously an ent is larger than a 6' tall humanoid so the model itself is larger than 10mm. Also, things look so much better now in photographs that I finally have an actual light box.
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Aug 20, 2015 17:15
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THEYRE NOT BROWNIES 
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Aug 20, 2015 22:38
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#LeaveMoolaAlone #BaseGate
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Aug 20, 2015 22:41
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Moola posted:THEYRE NOT BROWNIES Embrace it man
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Aug 20, 2015 22:46
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People who know painting stuff. I paint a red base using mephiston red over black primer. I love the colour when mephiston red is wet. I assume that more and more layers will not prevent the fading. Is there a way of keeping that vivid red? Do I have to prime white?
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Aug 20, 2015 22:54
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Raphus C posted:People who know painting stuff. So, here's the issue you're going to run into. Acrylic paints dry translucent. That's part of why layering and glazes work. With enough layers, you could have the red be vibrant over black. But that's gonna take a lot of layers before it's opaque. So white will be less work. However, maybe you don't want to prime white. Maybe you don''t like playing hunt the nooks and crannies to find every last bit of unpainted primer on the model. Maybe you don't want to buy any. There is another solution. White paints are much more opaque than other paints. This means you can paint white over a black primer with less work than you might need to paint red over it. Then you can paint that section red. This will likely take fewer layers than just hitting it with layer after layer of red and it won't have all the same issues as priming white.
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Aug 20, 2015 23:10
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Mugaaz posted:Why is the primer on this so loving bad, and how do I fix it? The other people who gave advice seem to be correct, I would add that other painting gurus told me to shake the everloving daylights out of the can. Shake it, keep shaking it, then turn it over and twirl it so that the ball inside smoothly rolls around the interior edge. This process "wakes up" the propellant and other substances in the can, "primes it" is probably a better phrase. Shake that thing like an unwanted baby! I had a problem with a can of GW paint crapping-out entirely (lots of paint in it) and someone explained that the propellant can leak out, leaving an inert canister of paint that has no way of being used. Regardless, sometimes you just get a janky can. If you bought in in person, bring the mini with the junked primer coat and asked to exchange it for a new can. If you bought it online or it's many years old it's non-refundable and not worth the effort regardless. HardCoil posted:Painted my son's bus with a red pattern to match the ones in our city: I was dating a woman with a four-year-old who liked toy cars and Ben 10, [skip the horrific accident that ended what was to be our family] so I painted one of his cars in the colors and logo of the show. I even bought some extra Hotwheels cars and added racing slicks to the back of the car, replaced the broken axle in the front. That you painted a bus for your son is very, very sweet and the paintjob is great. I've never had painter's tape work well for me (even when painting walls) but you are the latest in a string of people this year that said it works superbly. Hazard stripes, canopies, et cetera. Post 9-11 User fucked around with this message at 23:47 on Aug 20, 2015 |
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Aug 20, 2015 23:39
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Tamiya tape is amazing stuff, stick it to yourself once before the model though, it needs a little stickiness taken away from it I find
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Aug 21, 2015 00:24
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