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I tried playing with adaptive on my Griphon and found out the amount of voltage it will add during loads was constant, so I could just lower the normal voltage to control the ceiling, but then the normal voltage would be too low to even get into the OS, so I just use a fixed voltage now. I don't actually know a lot about overclocking so I might be wrong on multiple instances here. Edit: I even posted some impressions about my experience concluding in this post program666 posted:I think I finally understood how this works thanks to your post and some fiddling. The voltages without offset are:
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Jul 9, 2015 15:07
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Asus uefi havers trying to adjust adaptive voltage please go into digi power control settings and raise/lower CPU Load Line Calibration. You'll have to redo your desired voltage again but this way you can curb your Vdroop/Vbump on load Sidesaddle Cavalry fucked around with this message at 16:11 on Jul 9, 2015 |
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Jul 9, 2015 16:08
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Thank you both for the replies. I don't want to run a constant voltage for a couple reasons, not the least being that I shouldn't have to do that on a board that cost me around $300 CAD after tax. I guess it's a good time to learn about LLC. I'll post back with the results of this.
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Jul 9, 2015 16:42
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I am thinking about upgrading the fans in my Fractal Design Define R3 but am not sure if it is worth it. I'm running a 2500k at 4.4 which reaches 71 degrees in Prime95, idles around 36. and a MSI 970 that gets up around 76 degrees playing the witcher 3. Is that a reasonable temp for a 970 running at 1530 MHz? When I tried to push it further it got up to 82 degrees. I don't plan on overclocking any further but do you think I would see any improvements both temp and noise wise? What fans would you recommend? I saw the bitfenix fans recommended in the parts thread, I'm thinking about going with those. Noise level is a priority because my PC is in my bedroom. Ambient temp in the room is around 70 Fahrenheit.
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Jul 10, 2015 14:24
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Your temps are completely fine and well within spec. I'd push the 970 more if I were you, 82c is below what the reference card runs at by default and still ~13c below the rated max temp of the card.
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Jul 10, 2015 14:49
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It probably auto throttles back like mine for no obvious reason and you probably runs 1530 for only a few seconds especially if you don't crank the voltage up (in case you're using these afterburner/precision utilities the voltage sliders don't do anything, you have to bios flash to edit the voltages). In case you want to fine tune your OC you need some kind of realtime OSD for voltages and clock speeds, don't trust unigine benchs clock speeds display cause they are wrong (unigine valley showed my gpu core clocks at 1800+) and while benching watch for clock throttling most of the time offset overclocks will make the card throttle so much you'll be like 200Mhz below your target. At this time I haven't found out why this happens even after bios flashing huge voltage and power limit increases.
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Jul 10, 2015 16:42
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Yeah from what I've seen the 970, at least my MSi isn't at all limited by heat but by power limits and voltage. Well that and while mine will go to like 1570mhz just playing with sliders, it artifacts pretty bad above 1545. It has has never even cracked 70 though.
Mazz fucked around with this message at 18:28 on Jul 10, 2015 |
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Jul 10, 2015 18:22
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Ya mine starts getting artifacts around 1545 also. I just set the numbers from the hardocp review using afterburner and haven't had time to find anything stable above that. When I get some time I'll try to push it higher. Right now I'm still on 1080p but have a qnix 1440p monitor on the way. I upgraded from a 6870 so I'm really happy with the performance I'm getting. Hopefully when my new monitor arrives I won't want to buy a 980ti. I'm fine with not having everything on ultra. BurritoJustice posted:Your temps are completely fine and well within spec. I'd push the 970 more if I were you, 82c is below what the reference card runs at by default and still ~13c below the rated max temp of the card. Good to know, thanks. I won't worry about getting new fans then.
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Jul 10, 2015 19:14
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I have a 120mm Thermalright heatpipe cooler that is a few years old that needs to be reseated with new thermal paste on my CPU due to a slowly increasing temps. It currently has one 120mm on there on a rheostat, but I was thinking about putting two 120mm fans in push/pull config. Is this a more effective setup as far as noise/performance goes than a single beefier 120mm fan? I'm don't have much of an overclock on my old i7 2600k, but I'd like to keep it reasonably quiet. Is there a favorite 120mm CPU fan out there currently? I have a Scythe fan with some kinda fancy bearings on right now, but I don't know if there is a new hotness now.
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Jul 12, 2015 04:04
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TenementFunster posted:I have a 120mm Thermalright heatpipe cooler that is a few years old that needs to be reseated with new thermal paste on my CPU due to a slowly increasing temps. It currently has one 120mm on there on a rheostat, but I was thinking about putting two 120mm fans in push/pull config. Is this a more effective setup as far as noise/performance goes than a single beefier 120mm fan? I'm don't have much of an overclock on my old i7 2600k, but I'd like to keep it reasonably quiet. Get a name brand 120mm fan that is 4 wire (pwm). Plug it into the cpu header on your motherboard and the motherboard will speed it up or down with temperature.
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Jul 12, 2015 05:08
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TenementFunster posted:I have a 120mm Thermalright heatpipe cooler that is a few years old that needs to be reseated with new thermal paste on my CPU due to a slowly increasing temps. It currently has one 120mm on there on a rheostat, but I was thinking about putting two 120mm fans in push/pull config. Is this a more effective setup as far as noise/performance goes than a single beefier 120mm fan? I'm don't have much of an overclock on my old i7 2600k, but I'd like to keep it reasonably quiet. If you have a Scythe Gentle Typhoon you're going to have a hard time finding a better 25mm fan, but if it's a Slipstream or a Kaze you might want to look into replacing it. If you go with a single 38mm-thick fan you can get most of the pressure benefits of push-pull without needing 2 fans. If you want to go with 38mm fans you could look into a low or medium-speed panoflo like this: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/pa12ulqu.html or http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/pa12mesp.html -Avoid Delta (loud) or Yate Loon (cheap, but lovely sleeve-bearing fans) For 25mm fans you could grab a couple of these for push-pull: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/scge120mmsic2.html
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Jul 12, 2015 17:51
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Can anyone confirm that with ASUS z97 boards, the "VIN4" voltage measurement is the actual vCore? I don't have easy to access multimeter points on my mobo. My build is an i7 4790k overclocked lightly to 4.6ghz at 1.210v with an ASUS Maximus VII Hero board. Cooled with a 212EVO with an extra fan for push/pull. Reason I ask - with a manual voltage and c-states/speedstep enabled, I get the expected 0.02v->1.23v displaying on the VIN4 heading. I'm guessing the extra 0.020v is just fluctuation or LLC or something, you can see it in the voltage graph on the OCCT capture below (I've left my LLC to auto). I'm not too concerned because it's still a low voltage and it's stable. My Vcore seems to be displaying my actual voltage supplied to VRM (1.86v). This label scared the poo poo out of me for a second until I figured out what it was actually measuring. My VID I'm not sure what the gently caress it's measuring since it's not throttling down but it's reading my manually set max voltage. I expect it's picking this value up from BIOS somewhere.   Can anyone confirm these suspicions, that VIN4 is my actual CPU core voltage?
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Jul 13, 2015 00:15
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Pretty sure it's not, that 0.02V reading is way too low, I'd say "VCORE" is your Vcore
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Jul 13, 2015 10:20
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Sh4 posted:Pretty sure it's not, that 0.02V reading is way too low, I'd say "VCORE" is your Vcore If my vcore was 1.86v I don't think my computer would run long enough to make the thread I made! I agree 0.02v is low and it's weird that HWmonitor is showing 0.02v and OCCT is showing 0.16v. I have heard that haswell processors run super low resting voltages though.
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Jul 13, 2015 10:33
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VelociBacon posted:If my vcore was 1.86v I don't think my computer would run long enough to make the thread I made! I agree 0.02v is low and it's weird that HWmonitor is showing 0.02v and OCCT is showing 0.16v. I have heard that haswell processors run super low resting voltages though. Well, to be sure set your Vcore to offset and then compare with VID edit: would also advise against auto LLC Sh4 fucked around with this message at 10:42 on Jul 13, 2015 |
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Jul 13, 2015 10:40
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Sh4 posted:Well, to be sure set your Vcore to offset and then compare with VID When I alter the CPU voltage settings the VIN4 behaves exactly like CPU vcore should behave. I agree about LLC. I guess I'll play with that next, is the idea to use the lowest stable LLC level?
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Jul 13, 2015 11:09
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VelociBacon posted:When I alter the CPU voltage settings the VIN4 behaves exactly like CPU vcore should behave. I agree about LLC. I guess I'll play with that next, is the idea to use the lowest stable LLC level? I'd check the voltages with HWInfo and compare. We don't have the same board but my Asus Z87-A seems to show around the same voltage as my CPU voltage listed as VCore0 through VCore3 in the motherboard sensors. Maybe they're for each core or something, but they bip and bop around about the same as what the CPU package lists for it's cores (listed as Core #0 VID through Core #3 VID). CPU:  motherboard: 
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Jul 13, 2015 11:18
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Rexxed posted:I'd check the voltages with HWInfo and compare. We don't have the same board but my Asus Z87-A seems to show around the same voltage as my CPU voltage listed as VCore0 through VCore3 in the motherboard sensors. Maybe they're for each core or something, but they bip and bop around about the same as what the CPU package lists for it's cores (listed as Core #0 VID through Core #3 VID). I actually can't use hwinfo, I'm not sure if it's windows 8.1 or the Asus EC stuff or what but running it bluescreens my computer. I figured I just needed to update the drivers since it's a new build and did that but I'm still having the same problem. A fair number of people online are also having this issue. I used hwinfo on previous builds and I miss it. e: Here's another 4790K guy with an ASUS board, I stole this from another forum. This is on stock BIOS settings, and looks the same as my setup. 
VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 11:53 on Jul 13, 2015 |
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Jul 13, 2015 11:38
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VelociBacon posted:I actually can't use hwinfo, I'm not sure if it's windows 8.1 or the Asus EC stuff or what but running it bluescreens my computer. I figured I just needed to update the drivers since it's a new build and did that but I'm still having the same problem. A fair number of people online are also having this issue. I used hwinfo on previous builds and I miss it. Gremlins.
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Jul 13, 2015 11:49
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VelociBacon posted:I actually can't use hwinfo, I'm not sure if it's windows 8.1 or the Asus EC stuff or what but running it bluescreens my computer. I figured I just needed to update the drivers since it's a new build and did that but I'm still having the same problem. A fair number of people online are also having this issue. I used hwinfo on previous builds and I miss it. Agreed but I still can't believe the vcore can go below 0.1V haswell or not, something fishy with this board sensors I guess. As for LLC I'd for High setting, it minimizes Vdrop without increasing the voltage too much
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Jul 13, 2015 12:28
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Sh4 posted:Agreed but I still can't believe the vcore can go below 0.1V haswell or not, something fishy with this board sensors I guess. As for LLC I'd for High setting, it minimizes Vdrop without increasing the voltage too much I'm not at home but I think my LLC options are numbered 1-8. Thanks for the info.
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Jul 13, 2015 12:34
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I'd definitely try another program just to see because it does seem like weird sensors, see if the values change spots or anything at least.
Mazz fucked around with this message at 14:50 on Jul 13, 2015 |
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Jul 13, 2015 14:47
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Mazz posted:I'd definitely try another program just to see because it does seem like weird sensors, see if the values change spots or anything at least. I'm stoked - managed to get HWinfo64 up and stable with an older version - 4.64. Everything looks good! 
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Jul 13, 2015 15:59
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Followed the guides in the second post about airflow, bumped the multiplier on my i7-3820 to 42, bumped the RAM to 1600 because I'm too poor to afford actual 1600, and now my computer's all like  and idling at 32 C.This thread rocks. e: Erm. Apparently my motherboard was running what turned out to be 1866 at 1333. I guess I'm going to go bump that up another notch.  e2: Uh, is this considered normal at all? Happened during a CPU benchmark. e3: It seems that Task Manager doesn't understand that just because your memory is outside of JEDEC spec, your entire system bus is not and it does not need to assume your CPU is in fact five loving gigahertz. Kazinsal fucked around with this message at 06:41 on Jul 21, 2015 |
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Jul 21, 2015 05:47
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Yeah if you want accurate numbers use hwinfo
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Jul 21, 2015 13:22
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When overclocking an i7-4790K, should I increase my Uncore multiplier or leave it at stock frequency?
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Jul 29, 2015 22:27
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I leave it at stock in trying to find highest stable clock speed multiplier, then adjust it upwards to to find highest stable uncore multiplier.
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Jul 30, 2015 01:43
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Daysvala posted:When overclocking an i7-4790K, should I increase my Uncore multiplier or leave it at stock frequency?
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Jul 30, 2015 02:20
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Managed to get stable bios overclocks for my 970's WF3 G1 the problem was that I had different PCB versions, one is Hynix and the other was Samsung so they use different bioses too. In my tests I found that the Hynix was the better overclocker by far with 1640 Mhz stable core clocks but it also had far better ASIC quality rating than the samsung one, I kind of gave up when I was able to run them both stable and synced at 1525. I can upload bioses if anyone is interested but be aware that they are modded to have the fans completly stopped when not gaming.
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Aug 15, 2015 01:46
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Has anyone done any benchmarking on win 10 vs win 7 now? Anything interesting happen? I've heard win 10 reserves some resources for it's own means but that was anecdotal from some guy at work.
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Aug 15, 2015 14:14
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Sh4 posted:Managed to get stable bios overclocks for my 970's WF3 G1 the problem was that I had different PCB versions, one is Hynix and the other was Samsung so they use different bioses too. In my tests I found that the Hynix was the better overclocker by far with 1640 Mhz stable core clocks but it also had far better ASIC quality rating than the samsung one, I kind of gave up when I was able to run them both stable and synced at 1525. I can upload bioses if anyone is interested but be aware that they are modded to have the fans completly stopped when not gaming. 1640MHz is loving insane. That is the highest air clock I've ever seen. You could probably sell that card for well above retail on overclock.net
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Aug 15, 2015 14:59
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BurritoJustice posted:1640MHz is loving insane. That is the highest air clock I've ever seen. You could probably sell that card for well above retail on overclock.net I don't really care about selling but I would be open to trade the hynix for a samsung one just so I don't have to gently caress around with 2 different bios versions, if you're interested I can find some time to reflash it for non-sli oc and show you proof 
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Aug 15, 2015 17:53
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Just got my 6700k overclocked to 4.7ghz stable at 1.3v on a 120mm closed loop cooler. Here's a screenshot on my 5760x3240 screen:  Hey, questions though: 1) I set the voltage manually to 1.3v in the bios, but HWMonitor shows it going as high as 1.391 volts, what's up with that? 2) The cores stay at just below 4700mhz at all times, even if no programs are running. Isn't it supposed to SpeedStep or something? The CPU can go down to idle percentages and the temps stay low when nothing is running, but the clocks stay around 4689mhz.
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Aug 18, 2015 01:44
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Zero VGS posted:Just got my 6700k overclocked to 4.7ghz stable at 1.3v on a 120mm closed loop cooler. Hwinfo64 displays it's labels improperly with some builds including my 4790k on asus maximus VII Hero. I just found the voltage that was fluctuating with my C-states and monitor that.
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Aug 18, 2015 01:49
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Zero VGS posted:2) The cores stay at just below 4700mhz at all times, even if no programs are running. Isn't it supposed to SpeedStep or something? The CPU can go down to idle percentages and the temps stay low when nothing is running, but the clocks stay around 4689mhz. What version of Windows are you running and what power option plan? On 8.x and 10, the default settings for High Performance has minimum processor state set to 100% and will disable CPU downclocking. This took me quite a while to realize and drove me nuts for the longest time as I think there was something wrong with the CPU or MB.
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Aug 18, 2015 05:42
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Zero VGS posted:Just got my 6700k overclocked to 4.7ghz stable at 1.3v on a 120mm closed loop cooler. VID is not Vcore, not sure why the software is not picking up the correct sensors tho
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Aug 18, 2015 15:37
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Did a quick overclock on my i5-2500K (in a Asus P8P67 board) last night and have a question I didn't see in the OP or the last few pages: how long do you run the stress tests for? At 4.3ghz the processor hit 72 degrees C after 4.5-5 minutes running Prime95. Before then everything was a-ok. When it did hit that wall it did slow itself down automatically. For now I have it on 4.1 since it was more like 69 degrees after 5 minutes then. Also when some more ram gets in and I have the case open anyways should I go ahead and redo the thermal goop with something from Arctic Silver? Got a tube but went ahead and used the bit that came on the Corsair H80i when I put it in yesterday. After pulling enough stuff out to get the H80i's mount in place I was kinda in a 'gently caress it, let's get this together and running' mood. And a stupid ram question -- the stuff in the computer should be 1600, but is running at 1333 according to the BIOS. Any reason I shouldn't just manually bump it up where it should be?
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Aug 19, 2015 23:21
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Getting some bad keyboard lag when I put my 2500K on a measly 4GHZ. Mouse is unaffected. Ram is untouched, temperatures go to in low 60s and VCORE on the motherboards automatic settings doesn't go above 1.34 on HWInfo 
Carecat fucked around with this message at 19:13 on Aug 22, 2015 |
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Aug 22, 2015 18:57
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Is it changing the internal bus/uncore speed at all? Try setting it manually to 100mhz. Also 1.34v is really high for 4ghz, although with auto settings it's probably just pushing things harder. What board is it? Parts Kit posted:Also when some more ram gets in and I have the case open anyways should I go ahead and redo the thermal goop with something from Arctic Silver? Got a tube but went ahead and used the bit that came on the Corsair H80i when I put it in yesterday. After pulling enough stuff out to get the H80i's mount in place I was kinda in a 'gently caress it, let's get this together and running' mood. And a stupid ram question -- the stuff in the computer should be 1600, but is running at 1333 according to the BIOS. Any reason I shouldn't just manually bump it up where it should be? future ghost fucked around with this message at 19:58 on Aug 22, 2015 |
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Aug 22, 2015 19:54
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Thanks. That was 72 degrees after about 5 mins so should I just not worry and give it a little more, maybe 4.5ghz? Normal processing temps have been much lower while playing games/using photoshop and it did auto throttle down when it hit 72 degrees.
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Aug 23, 2015 05:58
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