|
Enourmo posted:You could probably stick it in the oven, reflow the solder on the cooling vanes and be could to go. Makes me glad Audi went overboard on their condensor coils...
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2015 05:16
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 16:03 |
|
|
I have several things here: A 1984 VW Scirocco with partially charged freon sytem A nice R-134a Manifold Gauge set A Harbor Freight single stage vacuum pump A R-134 can valve An unopened (!!!) case of R-12 cans  (I actually have the EPA cert)So I need a can tap for the R-12 cans obviously. Do I run R-134 adapters and use my current gauges, or should I go find an old guy who has old R12 gauges?
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2015 03:15
|
|
|
0toShifty posted:I have several things here: Just run the current gauges and add R-134 conversion adapters. Not a major issue.
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2015 04:03
|
|
|
dyne posted:Backstory: I bought a used 2008 STI this past winter. This past spring, the AC pulley bearing went bad and I believe the friction related heat melted the wire insulation of the electromagnet coil. I cut the AC belt off (it's a stretch fit belt) and proceeded to drive it until last week until I decided to fix it. I just decided to pick up a new set of gauges so I could get this worked out before a road trip. The old compressor didn't seem to be generating the correct pressures (was getting 60s on the low side and 120s on high side at 80 degrees). I picked up another vacuum pump and swapped out the compressor, and recharged the system. It's now working great. Question: I was only able to dump out about a quarter ounce of oil out of the old compressor, so should I add any PAG oil? I have one of those combo 1oz PAG100/1oz r134 cans that I can put in (plus I was about 2oz shy of the recommended amount of r134 so I couldn't hurt in that respect)..
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2015 04:11
|
|
|
CommieGIR posted:Just run the current gauges and add R-134 conversion adapters. Not a major issue. But you might want to tape a note on there that the system is still r12 for future reference, almost any shop that sees the 134 adapters will just assume the system underwent conversion even if you directly tell them it didn't
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2015 05:45
|
|
|
0toShifty posted:I have several things here: Sell the R12 for thousands of dollars and put R134 in the car.
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2015 15:39
|
|
|
0toShifty posted:I have several things here: My R134 gauges unscrew at the ends and already have R12 fittings, but mine are from HF.
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2015 15:48
|
|
|
ShittyPostmakerPro posted:So I finally took Motronics advice from last year and replaced my condenser. Anyone know if this is still good to use? Just wondering if the replacement was necessary... This needs to go over in the mechanical failures thread. That's amazing. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2015 12:39
|
|
|
Oh man, I really regret not fixing the AC on my Miata this year. The temperature's been at pretty much record levels for a couple of weeks and I'll need to drive like 4 hours tomorrow. It'll probably be too hot for top-down and likely even more miserable with the (black) roof up. Also no brick and mortar shops seem to have one of those recharge kits 
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2015 16:44
|
|
|
BrokenKnucklez posted:My R134 gauges unscrew at the ends and already have R12 fittings, but mine are from HF. Mine don't. If anyone can actually find R134>R12 adaptors for gauges let me know please I have looked quite a bit. I think I actually even asked in one of these threads like a year ago. Also would like to know where to find adapters for house AC as well...
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2015 20:50
|
|
|
I found some on eBay, they are just short lengths of hose with the correct fitting on each end. Something like this: http://www.aliexpress.com/store/pro...2316076759.html The easier/cheaper solution may be to get R134a adapters for the R12 system in the car instead. They are just fittings which screw over the end of your old R12 ports. I had to remove the schrader on the low-side to fit mine (not a problem if there's no refrigerant in the system). edit: in fact, the item I linked to is just a set of R12 to R12 fittings, with a R134a adapter screwed onto the male end. Hah.
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2015 21:46
|
|
|
revmoo posted:Mine don't. If anyone can actually find R134>R12 adaptors for gauges let me know please I have looked quite a bit. I think I actually even asked in one of these threads like a year ago. Also would like to know where to find adapters for house AC as well... Amazon. They sell yellow jacket gauges which seem to be highly regarded (according to motronic)
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2015 02:45
|
|
|
mobby_6kl posted:Oh man, I really regret not fixing the AC on my Miata this year. The temperature's been at pretty much record levels for a couple of weeks and I'll need to drive like 4 hours tomorrow. It'll probably be too hot for top-down and likely even more miserable with the (black) roof up. Also no brick and mortar shops seem to have one of those recharge kits Harbor freight sells gauge sets and cans of r134a.
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2015 03:09
|
|
|
BrokenKnucklez posted:Amazon. They sell yellow jacket gauges which seem to be highly regarded (according to motronic) Seconding the Ritchie/Yellow Jacket gauges. I have several of their products and use them just about every day. The only thing I have complaints about are their digital micron gauges. Poorly made. CPS is the way to go for those.
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2015 03:13
|
|
|
Another crosspost with the mechanical failure thread I have successfully diagnosed my AC error code:       
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2015 19:30
|
|
|
The AC in my 04 RX8 went out a month or so ago. On its last few days working it was spitting water droplets out the center vents and then a thin piece of plastic came out another vent. Now the compressor no longer comes on and there isn't even a hint of cold air. Fortunately the OP was a really good run down of how the AC system works and was a huge help in confirming that my AC is completely hosed. So thanks for saving me the 100 bucks or whatever I'd have wasted trying to recharge it like a dummy. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 11, 2015 08:02
|
|
|
Doesn't water from the vents mean evaporator freezing? Which means low refrigerant? You should do a quick visual with a UV light and look for leaks, check the valve cores, and get a set of loaner gauges and see if there is any pressure in the system too.
|
|
#
?
Aug 11, 2015 08:38
|
|
|
SperginMcBadposter posted:Harbor freight sells gauge sets and cans of r134a. I'm not in the states, sadly. However I left early enough in the morning that it was just getting unbearably hot when I arrived.
|
|
#
?
Aug 11, 2015 08:44
|
|
|
mafoose posted:Doesn't water from the vents mean evaporator freezing? Which means low refrigerant? Could also mean moisture in the system causing the evaporator to freeze. Could also be a leaking heater core. Any unusual sounds from the compressor? Does it turn smoothly by hand? Is there a sight glass near the receiver-dryer/accumulator? The compressor no longer coming on isn't a bad sign - it could just be a cut-off due to low pressure. My compressor didn't come on as Toyota fitted a speed sensor to the compressor, to detect when it has jammed. Usually it's a pressure cut-off. Best bet is to buy a set of manifold gauges and check your own pressures. Plastic coming from the vents will be unrelated to the AC system itself. Could be a piece from inside the heater/AC box. My car can sense when the internal doors/flaps are not working, and will not run the system. Perhaps yours is the same, and something is stuck inside.
|
|
#
?
Aug 11, 2015 11:46
|
|
|
ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Could also mean moisture in the system causing the evaporator to freeze. Could also be a leaking heater core. No noise from the compressor and it seems to spin freely. It doesnt stick or feel gritty or anything. I COULD buy the gauges and check the pressure, but my budget is so tight right now I wouldnt be able to afford to fix it afterwards.  I couldnt find the accumulator. It might be hidden under something. Or maybe I was looking for the wrong thing.
|
|
#
?
Aug 11, 2015 21:50
|
|
|
If you have an accumulator - But you need gauges - simply throwing parts at a car is much more expensive than proper diagnostics. edit:  yeah i was thinking something else.But this is what most of them look like - your results may vary depending on your system. 
BrokenKnucklez fucked around with this message at 22:02 on Aug 11, 2015 |
|
#
?
Aug 11, 2015 21:54
|
|
|
The car will either have an expansion valve and receiver/dryer, or an orifice tube and receiver. Sometimes, the accumulator or receiver will have a sight glass on it. Sometime it won't. The fact that the compressor spins freely is a good sign for the overall health of the system, but there's still a good chance that you are low on refrigerant. Seconding the need for a manifold gauge here to see what the issue is. These aren't expensive if you buy second hand, and are useful to have around, as they will work on 99% of all car AC systems.
|
|
#
?
Aug 11, 2015 23:05
|
|
|
Great Beer posted:. I COULD buy the gauges and check the pressure, but my budget is so tight right now I wouldnt be able to afford to fix it afterwards. That's why I said loaner gauges. Parts stores should have rentable ones.
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2015 01:23
|
|
|
You never know what kind of life the loaner gauges have lead - the ones I borrowed from AutoZone wound up being nearly 100 PSI off on the high side. Also had a cracked gauge face. When I mentioned it to them, they said "*sigh* yeah, unfortunately any idiot can rent them, and they treat them like poo poo". I bought their $55 gauges, turns out my high side was a bit over 300 PSI, not the 210 the loaners were showing. Explains why the compressor would run for about half a second at a time the next day once the sun was out! Oh yeah, R134a is much, much cheaper at Wal-Mart. <$7 can there, usually $10+ for store-brand at AutoZone.
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2015 06:14
|
|
|
Not only that, walmart cans (the white ones with blue lettering) are stopleak free, as far as I could tell reading the ingredients list! So that's what I bought. So far so good, I've had working AC in the Forester for a month or two now.ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Another crosspost with the mechanical failure thread I think that might actually be dirtier on the inside than the outside. Impressive.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2015 00:47
|
|
|
I'm currently removing the entire AC system and throwing it in the garbage. I'll get replacement parts from a junkyard. A whole car may be cheaper, so I may end up doing that instead.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2015 00:55
|
|
|
I"m not sure if this has been covered yet (my apologies if it has) but I didn't see it covered in the OP(s). I have to add a bit of oil to my (R134A) system, and have a container here I bought a while ago that has 1 oz R134A, 1 oz PAG 46 oil, and 1 oz of  "Ice32 Performance Enhancer". This exact can, actually. I have already made sure that the oil is correct - my car calls for Nippondenso ND-8 which crosses over to PAG 46.I figure the performance enhancer poo poo is just some gimmick, but is there any reason I shouldn't add this to my car? What is the "performance enhancer" stuff exactly? It doesn't really say on the can - just has some marketing fluff that says "advanced chemistry for improved cooling and extended compressor life". I guess I'm wondering if this additional ounce is more oil, or more refrigerant, or something else??
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2015 03:36
|
|
|
The performance enhancer will be another gas that alters the performance of the refrigerant. It turns your R134a+oil system into an unknown mixture that you can no longer properly diagnose with pressure and temperature readings, though.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2015 16:15
|
|
|
EightBit posted:The performance enhancer will be another gas that alters the performance of the refrigerant. It turns your R134a+oil system into an unknown mixture that you can no longer properly diagnose with pressure and temperature readings, though. Yup. You dont need mystery snake oil ingredients to get ice cold ac.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2015 01:02
|
|
|
Full disclosure: I'm dumb when it comes to A/C. I'm buying a truck (2001 Silverado, 5.3L) that has a strange problem. I jumped in it, A/C was running and cool air from the vents. I drove it down the road and wanted to test the heat so I moved the knob from cool to hot. Heat worked, and I twisted it back and A/C no longer worked. Only hot air from the vents. Before when it was working, I looked under the hood I saw the A/C lines were frosting over, and after the drive (after it wasn't working for a bit) they were dripping with condensation but not frozen anymore. Of course the dealer says they'll give it a recharge before I pick it up but does it sound like that's the problem? Or something with the doors that open and close for the vents?
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2015 20:08
|
|
|
Blend doors, or the cable from the knob to the blend door broke.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2015 21:15
|
|
|
Moisture in the system can cause the evaporator to freeze after a few minutes which will reduce its cooling ability (ice is an insulator), but yeah if you're getting hot air (rather than outside-temp air) then it's probably your blend door rather than the AC itself. The whole 'recharge it and see!! $$$' philosophy at most shop really pisses me off.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2015 22:02
|
|
|
Blend doors. The Silverado/suburban family is notorious on eating blend door motors.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2015 02:35
|
|
|
Awesome, thanks dudes. Sounds like it should be well documented on how to fix it then, too.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2015 15:04
|
|
|
Recharged my '90 RX-7 a little while back, after replacing both schrader valves (I suspected the low side was leaking, based on the little psst! I got when I removed the cap. While I was in there with the valves out, I added some UV dye. Well, the valves may or may not have been leaking, but I found where it definitely is leaking: Through the UV glasses:  Nuts. Looks like I may be able to get an o-ring kit for it and just replace the front cover o-rings and shaft seal (because you;re already in there...) Just need to confirm that it's the factory installed Nippon-Denso, rather than the dealer installed whatever.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2015 23:31
|
|
|
If your '90s Denso compressor is like my '90s Denso compressor, replacing the shaft seal is a bitch to do without damaging it. The main o-rings should be easy to find though. Be careful not to damage the shaft seal when replacing the front housing.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2015 23:38
|
|
|
Just a follow up: AC is still ice cold in my Audi using R152 and Esther oil.
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2015 02:53
|
|
|
Any reason why you used esther oil and not PAG-46? I'm planning to regas my old R12 system after replacing every single freaking component, and was wondering which oil to use. There would still be some mineral oil residue in the replacement (junkyard) parts, but I don't think it matters?
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2015 19:44
|
|
|
ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Any reason why you used esther oil and not PAG-46? I'm planning to regas my old R12 system after replacing every single freaking component, and was wondering which oil to use. There would still be some mineral oil residue in the replacement (junkyard) parts, but I don't think it matters? Compatability and Availability. Esther oil is compatible with both R134 and R152 and will work with any remaining Mineral Oil, as well as it was easy to find.
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2015 20:03
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 16:03 |
|
|
I've just read up on it, apparently it's compatible with everything and you can also get it with some anti acid/corrosion additives, which considering my history with BLACK DEATH is probably not a bad thing to have. My bottle of PAG oil has some milky white swirls in it and is of questionable age. I'm gonna go ahead and assume it's moisture contaminated and not use it. In other news: Last week I filled my receiver/drier with the correct amount of PAG oil (I didn't have my manifold gauges with me at the time), vaccd the system and found it leaking slowly. I haven't touched it since (been waiting for UV dye to turn up, it just did). Is the drier now garbage? They aren't cheap. But neither is a compressor, so.... have I just answered my own question, or am I being over cautious?
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2015 20:18
|
|