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Post 9-11 User posted:The other people who gave advice seem to be correct, I would add that other painting gurus told me to shake the everloving daylights out of the can. Shake it, keep shaking it, then turn it over and twirl it so that the ball inside smoothly rolls around the interior edge. This process "wakes up" the propellant and other substances in the can, "primes it" is probably a better phrase. Shake that thing like an unwanted baby! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UAGlJvmldto
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# ? Aug 21, 2015 00:32 |
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# ? May 16, 2024 19:04 |
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So that's where all those fleshlight attachments went.
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# ? Aug 21, 2015 01:31 |
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The value is amazing. I can think of at least 3 uses for it.
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# ? Aug 21, 2015 01:50 |
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"I solve practical problems..."
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# ? Aug 21, 2015 03:08 |
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It took what felt like forever, but I finished up the Devastators! This squad was fun to paint. The new kits have so many little details to work through and there's just so much to paint on them, but I really do like the look of them. I also had to use some old bits I had on hand to flesh out the squad and give it some ablative wounds. My favorite guy is actually the bolter dude on the far right in the front row; with the giant Forgeworld shoulder pad and Mk. III armor he just looks so grumpy. I also really liked doing the freehand squad markings on these guys; it was easier than I thought it was and I'm pretty pleased with the results.
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# ? Aug 21, 2015 04:11 |
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I haven't painted in like a decade but I decided to get back into it, so here's a fairly-basic question: when priming, about how thick should the coverage be in the end? I used to have a habit of using a very light coat of primer to avoid priming mishaps, but I figure now's a good time to break bad habits. (Followup question: I assume it's better to wait for each coat to dry if doing multiple coats? My test with a bit of sprue and not waiting to dry resulted in a somewhat ripply texture.) As penance for the dumb question, have a couple of pictures of the last models I finished:
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# ? Aug 21, 2015 04:41 |
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Post 9-11 User posted:I was dating a woman with a four-year-old who liked toy cars and Ben 10, [skip the horrific accident that ended what was to be our family] so I painted one of his cars in the colors and logo of the show. I even bought some extra Hotwheels cars and added racing slicks to the back of the car, replaced the broken axle in the front. That you painted a bus for your son is very, very sweet and the paintjob is great. I've never had painter's tape work well for me (even when painting walls) but you are the latest in a string of people this year that said it works superbly. Hazard stripes, canopies, et cetera. There's a lot of "look honey, I'm useful" in it, but he did love his new bus Normal painter's tape sucks for both appartments and minis. Tamiya tape is awesome, and a completely different product.
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# ? Aug 21, 2015 18:37 |
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Question for you all about doing canopies. What colors should I snag to do a blue windshield canopy with a white highlight at the edge? I've seen a few tutorials that involve blue, white, and a few shades of lighter blue, but I get super overwhelmed staring at the rack of paints in my FLGS. I currently have a basic white, ultramarine blue, the ultramarine dry brush color, and some lovely craft store blues that I could theoretically mix. What 2-4 paints should I grab at the store next time I'm there? (If it helps, I am painting dropzone minis that have windshields-specifically the Wolverines) I should say that they mostly have citadel paints, though they have a poor selection of 10-15 p3 colors.
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# ? Aug 21, 2015 18:53 |
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SRM posted:It took what felt like forever, but I finished up the Devastators! Wow, I love these guys
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# ? Aug 21, 2015 20:27 |
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Yeah, great work SRM, you're making me want to paint up a squad of devastators.
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# ? Aug 21, 2015 21:27 |
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Thanks guys! And you totally should! Devastators actually are worth their points now that GW realized nobody wants to spend 35 points for a lascannon.
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# ? Aug 21, 2015 22:25 |
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SRM posted:Thanks guys! And you totally should! Devastators actually are worth their points now that GW realized nobody wants to spend 35 points for a lascannon. *buzzer noise* I'm sorry, the correct answer is "Nothing GW makes is worth its points because don't give GW your money!" I'm sorry but you've lost all your oath points, SRM, and have to spend a minute in the contestant appreciation stove.
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# ? Aug 21, 2015 23:17 |
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:*buzzer noise* I'm sorry, the correct answer is "Nothing GW makes is worth its points because don't give GW your money!" What if I already have the models? Should I burn them for warmth this winter?
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# ? Aug 22, 2015 00:05 |
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Burn yourself so that you live forever as refracted firelight in the facets of those precious jewels.
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# ? Aug 22, 2015 00:17 |
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Bavius posted:What if I already have the models? Should I burn them for warmth this winter? I have a big box of GW sprues that I'm probably never going to use since I switched over to Warmahordes, I have no clue what to do with them
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# ? Aug 22, 2015 00:18 |
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I am working on a infantry themed trollblood army based loosely off Gunnbjorn. Here is my first Warder group, I think they came out great. In the back is my Axer. I love the look of these guys because I feel Warders have a 1700/1800s era breastplate armor look, and with some bits they look like tough fellows out to defend the clan. I have heard a lot of good things about Long Riders and thought it would be awesome to convert them to look a lot more irregular, like the roaming riders who carry their homes like the fluff describes them. Plus their bases are so big, they would look reasonable carrying all their possessions on their backs. Then I had this idea... + So my call to you folks, is does anyone have any good ideas for places to get either ww1/2 helmets / backpacks or good Napoleonic Era hats? For example, I was thinking of buying some Bart Pirate Hats and giving them outlandish feathers like Dragoons.
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# ? Aug 22, 2015 02:04 |
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I think I'm going to take back any idea of getting more ebay rescue projects because my first one is proving to be a sheer hell. This is how a Leman Russ chassi I got a while ago looks like after three weeks in a pure green soap bath aside from periods where I've gone at it with an toothbrush which has only helped to gotten rid of the first layer of paint apparently. So does anyone have any better ideas for paint stripping that can be acquired in the EU that might help me get rid of the rest of it?
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# ? Aug 22, 2015 14:02 |
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Cooked Auto posted:
One of these at least http://www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-Reveal-Power-Scrubber-Grout/dp/B00IIVM2UE/
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# ? Aug 22, 2015 14:08 |
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Finally a nice morning, I got to prime my Menoth test models! Now I need to see if I can find some p3 paint locally, because I really want to get cracking before I finalize my basing scheme. I used valspar primer that I found at Lowe's, not sure how well it works yet, but it seems to go on nice and thin, so I hope it works well!
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# ? Aug 22, 2015 14:13 |
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Cooked Auto posted:I think I'm going to take back any idea of getting more ebay rescue projects because my first one is proving to be a sheer hell. I would also like to know Fairy Power spray works well on metals, but stripping plastic is a loving nightmare
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# ? Aug 22, 2015 15:28 |
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Moola posted:I would also like to know Ive had decent luck with Montana Gold paint remover spray, I've used it even on years-old latex paint and it worked.
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# ? Aug 22, 2015 15:40 |
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Cooked Auto posted:I think I'm going to take back any idea of getting more ebay rescue projects because my first one is proving to be a sheer hell. This is what we Warhams know as "terrain"
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# ? Aug 22, 2015 15:43 |
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Cooked Auto posted:I think I'm going to take back any idea of getting more ebay rescue projects because my first one is proving to be a sheer hell. Brown Dettol hasn't failed me yet. Not sure if it's in the rest of the EU but it's certainly here in the UK. I heard Fairy Power Spray used to be good but they changed the recipe so YMMV
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# ? Aug 22, 2015 15:51 |
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Zark the Damned posted:Brown Dettol hasn't failed me yet. Not sure if it's in the rest of the EU but it's certainly here in the UK. So this is what you mean with Brown Dettol I assume? SRM posted:This is what we Warhams know as "terrain" Tempting but I have a spare FW Vanquishier turret that is badly screaming for a chassi of its own. Now this on the other hand is terrain. Or a possible sacrifice to the dark gods.
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# ? Aug 22, 2015 17:03 |
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Cooked Auto posted:So this is what you mean with Brown Dettol I assume? That's the stuff, and it does work, but your whole life will smell of dettol for days, weeks even
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# ? Aug 22, 2015 17:06 |
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Dettol works. I used it to strip 100s of Orks I obtained from ebay. It can take a while and you have to be careful to avoid the goop - avoid mixing with water when scrubbing the paint off as it can turn it into some weird sludge poo poo that I would expect to see oozing from some mysterious barrel.Cooked Auto posted:I believe I heard something in the lines of that being mentioned during a previous paint stripping discussion. Guess I'll order a bottle at some point then. Should I dilute it somehow or just chuck the entire bottle inside a container of some sort like I do with green soap? I used it neat and it was pretty effective. Raphus C fucked around with this message at 20:01 on Aug 22, 2015 |
# ? Aug 22, 2015 17:19 |
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Raphus C posted:Dettol works. I used it to strip 100s of Orks I obtained from ebay. It can take a while and you have to be careful to avoid the goop - avoid mixing with water when scrubbing the paint off as it can turn it into some weird sludge poo poo that I would expect to see oozing from some mysterious barrel. I believe I heard something in the lines of that being mentioned during a previous paint stripping discussion. Guess I'll order a bottle at some point then. Should I dilute it somehow or just chuck the entire bottle inside a container of some sort like I do with green soap?
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# ? Aug 22, 2015 17:42 |
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You could also try using 90% or higher rubbing alcohol. Because it's plastic you don't need to worry about melting anything.
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# ? Aug 22, 2015 20:51 |
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SRM posted:It took what felt like forever, but I finished up the Devastators! Looks good SRM! I'm right in the middle of painting Dark Angel devs too. Its lovely the new dev box only comes with Ultramarine transfers
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# ? Aug 22, 2015 20:55 |
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Just use super clean to get it off. I've had that take even the toughest of paints off of plastics. Seriously, it's the best.
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# ? Aug 22, 2015 21:08 |
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Hixson posted:Looks good SRM! I'm right in the middle of painting Dark Angel devs too. Its lovely the new dev box only comes with Ultramarine transfers
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# ? Aug 22, 2015 22:26 |
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For those of you who airbrush inside, what's the recommended filter for 3m half masks? I remember an old post linking to a pink one but I can't find it. I can only find the particulate one with a large circle shape but it wasn't that one. It was trapezoidal and I forgot the terms used - organic, acidic?
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# ? Aug 22, 2015 23:33 |
You're probably thinking of the 3M P100 Filters for Organic Vapors/Particulates. http://www.amazon.com/3M-60921-Respirator-Cartridge-Particulates/dp/B002D8ZR5K
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# ? Aug 22, 2015 23:49 |
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Thanks for the quick reply! That looks like it! Looking around, the 60923 looks a couple dollars cheaper. Is there any difference? It says they're both organic P100s.
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# ? Aug 22, 2015 23:55 |
According to this guide the 60923 also protects against acid gases, so I'd probably go for that if they're cheaper.
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# ? Aug 23, 2015 00:14 |
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I have a Sable Kolinsky 000. It won't dot eyes. Touching models with the tip does nothing. I have to drag the side, which defeats the purpose of the brush size. Any idea what might be happening? The tip is still super sharp.
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# ? Aug 23, 2015 02:56 |
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demota posted:I have a Sable Kolinsky 000. It won't dot eyes. Touching models with the tip does nothing. I have to drag the side, which defeats the purpose of the brush size. Any idea what might be happening? The tip is still super sharp. The tip's so small that the paint dries too quickly. Be faster or use a 0 brush.
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# ? Aug 23, 2015 03:22 |
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Pierzak posted:The tip's so small that the paint dries too quickly. Be faster or use a 0 brush. Drying retardant could help. Dish soap might work (or is that for flow improver?).
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# ? Aug 23, 2015 03:30 |
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Anyone have any experience with AK-Interactive paints?
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# ? Aug 23, 2015 05:54 |
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# ? May 16, 2024 19:04 |
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LordAba posted:Drying retardant could help. Dish soap might work (or is that for flow improver?). IIRC, dish soap is best used as flow improver, it breaks the surface tension of the water and helps keeps the paint from breaking down when you thin it. signalnoise posted:Anyone have any experience with AK-Interactive paints? No experience with the paints, but the primer is pretty good. Granted I've only used one (the dark yellow), but had zero issues with it.
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# ? Aug 23, 2015 05:58 |