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canyoneer posted:My favorite is buying a duplicate tool because I can never find the one I already have The best kicker is when you have a good idea for where to store the new one "so you won't lose it like the last one" and behold! There's the goddamned old one! So you put the new one there too, and can't find either one a month later.
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Aug 25, 2015 01:24
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http://amzn.to/1Ef6Skq Is this going to be a piece of poo poo? It's less expensive than a harbor freight plunge router. I'm aspiring to start doing some woodworking. I've made a few items but want to round the edges. And it seems like a router is the way to go. I want a plunge router to make some interior cuts too. I'd be using it for maybe 5-10 pieces for my kids made from pine. If I'm any good at it I plan making stuff out of wood for sale on etsy or locally. At that point I'd want to upgrade to something not sucky and probably get a table /make jigs and all that jazz. Edit: also I'm cheap and like to spend as little money as possible. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 03:47 on Aug 25, 2015 |
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Aug 25, 2015 03:28
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It'll work fantastically until you use it then it'll break in the middle of a project and you will curse yourself for buying it then curse your forefathers for having brought you into such a cruel world. Seriously though, don't buy that. At a minimum buy a PC690 and never look back and regret it. Or if you want a plunge router, plenty of options there too. The idea of "upgrading" in woodworking is not going to serve you well. You will spend a lot of money on literal garbage and have to rebuy it all. There are tools on which you can save money but a router isn't one of them IMO.
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Aug 25, 2015 05:00
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That's kind of what I figured after looking into it a bit more after posting I realized that I don't need a plunge anything I am using it for will be okay to tip the router into, cutting a big hole in something or rounding edges are going to be the 2 primary uses I think. I also totally get the point of buying a good one now because basically you get to relearn how to use a good one instead of a fiddly poo poo one.
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Aug 25, 2015 05:05
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Plunge routers have become sort of the default although I own 2 routers and neither are a plunge and I've never wished for one either. But then I don't use a router very often.
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Aug 25, 2015 05:08
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Since you're in america where routers with replaceable bases are more common, I'd go for one of those. Was it porter cable that was a good cheap brand? I had to spend €€€ on a Bosch GMF 1600 to get that kind of functionality, pretty sweet though to be able to swap between a fixed and plunge base.
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Aug 25, 2015 05:59
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If the porter cable is able to go to plunge with a different base it looks like it'll cost about another 100-150 for the base.
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Aug 25, 2015 12:38
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A combo kit is the way to go, it's cheaper than buying the bases separately it seems http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-...+and+Fixed+Base
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Aug 25, 2015 13:16
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I have this router combo and its fantastic http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1617EVS...ds=bosch+router
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Aug 25, 2015 13:37
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His Divine Shadow posted:A combo kit is the way to go, it's cheaper than buying the bases separately it seems I have this. It is great. Want to buy another.
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Aug 25, 2015 13:40
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The 1617 is terrific, as is the craftsman house branded 1617 (it's their "Pro" model). Oddly enough, craftsman's $100 combo fixed/plunge is actually Not Horrific and A Pretty Good Starter Router!
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Aug 25, 2015 13:41
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Sylink posted:I have this router combo and its fantastic http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1617EVS...ds=bosch+router I have the euro equivalent to this. It cost and arm and a leg, but I really like it. Only negative thing is it came with a 12mm collet instead of a 1/2" collet so now I gotta get a 1/2" collet somewhere: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-Multifunction-Router-Accessories-L-Boxx/dp/B00531ALDM/ref=pd_sim_sbs_60_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1Q8KRJZEN2609EVKVAQ0
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Aug 25, 2015 13:51
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tater_salad posted:That's kind of what I figured after looking into it a bit more after posting I realized that I don't need a plunge anything I am using it for will be okay to tip the router into, cutting a big hole in something or rounding edges are going to be the 2 primary uses I think. I'd get it if I were you, it's got a 2 year full warranty. If it breaks after that and you still need a router, you've gotten your $ worth. There's nothing to relearn, that router is aimed at the weekender project person, which you sound like (not that there's anything wrong with that, Jerry) If it were me, I'd get the 3 horse Makita plunge I've owned for 20 years, but I used that to make a living with. When I bought my 1st one of those, they had a 3/8" collet included, which is kinda rare. Still have it. Tim Thomas posted:The 1617 is terrific, as is the craftsman house branded 1617 (it's their "Pro" model). Craftsman's stuff used to be rebranded B & D in the 70's and on after they cheapened out. Before that their power tools were higher quality.
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Aug 25, 2015 15:52
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His Divine Shadow posted:I have the euro equivalent to this. It cost and arm and a leg, but I really like it. Only negative thing is it came with a 12mm collet instead of a 1/2" collet so now I gotta get a 1/2" collet somewhere: I've had this or its predecessor for years, and for all you Bosch fanboys, it's poo poo. Garbage, and I regret every getting it. http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-PR20EVS...ate+trimmer+kit
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Aug 25, 2015 15:56
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tater_salad posted:http://amzn.to/1Ef6Skq Devil's advocate here, you can do that stuff with hand tools cheaply. Pick up a block plane or #4 at a yard sale for the rough roundovers on straight sections, a 4-in-1 rasp for curves, and a flat file and sandpaper for a smooth finish. Interior cuts can be done with basic chisels.
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Aug 25, 2015 17:07
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Mr. Mambold posted:I've had this or its predecessor for years, and for all you Bosch fanboys, it's poo poo. Garbage, and I regret every getting it. I have the variable speed colt and I love it. Really powerful little router. What dont you like about it?
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Aug 25, 2015 17:47
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Mr. Mambold posted:I've had this or its predecessor for years, and for all you Bosch fanboys, it's poo poo. Garbage, and I regret every getting it. I have that and recently grabbed the plunge base for it, it's been a great little router for me.
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Aug 25, 2015 19:19
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mds2 posted:I have the variable speed colt and I love it. Really powerful little router. What dont you like about it? Mine isn't variable speed, and I reckon it was an early iteration of that kit, since I've had it a few decades. Ironically I tried a DeWalt set first, then returned it because the collet didn't seem to hold the bit. I loved the idea at the time of 4 base options, etc. The Bosch is worse in that regard, plus the main base is off-balance, and maybe the shaft as well. You get a bevel bit floating up to ruin one job, and it kind of sours you. The 3rd option was a Porter-Cable set, iirc, I probably should have returned the Bosch for that, but after one drama return, they would have been looking at me like "Maybe it's you, buddy." edit: I'd bought it to replace a Rockwell beercan router which served me well until it died, I and wanted to 'upgrade' functionally speaking.
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Aug 25, 2015 19:37
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tater_salad posted:http://amzn.to/1Ef6Skq
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Aug 25, 2015 20:14
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I wouldn't care about depth of cut adjustments foe the pkunge.. but.... I'd want it to hold the depth setting for the bit. Ie the rounding bit would need to be set so the flat piece isn't sitting 8n contact with the wood. the only reason I wanted plunge was to make the interior cuts easier so I didn't need to tip in.. I'm not going to set the depth At 2 3/4.. maybe.. just maybe I'd do a joint or two but that would be possible with a fixed base. For now I'd like to be able to cut out a pattern and use it to follow that then round edges of the finished product. For the do it by hand guy.. I mean you can start a car by hand too! I'd be looking at rounding around around 80 feet of edges each time I made one of these things. Plus if I end up making a stove or fridge play set using a chisel to knock out a 2 sq foot hole by hand in a piece of wood is not super exciting. If a $40 router worked I would rather do that especially since I've got like $15 in amazon bucks. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 02:02 on Aug 26, 2015 |
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Aug 26, 2015 01:59
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Hurray my dad is giving me his drill press since he doesn't use it anymore, the press he paid $30 for 20 years ago!
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Aug 26, 2015 04:18
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tater_salad posted:For the do it by hand guy.. I mean you can start a car by hand too! I'd be looking at rounding around around 80 feet of edges each time I made one of these things. Plus if I end up making a stove or fridge play set using a chisel to knock out a 2 sq foot hole by hand in a piece of wood is not super exciting. Of course you aren't really describing what is you're trying to make so I can only describe generalities. Planes can round over straight edges very quickly, curves not so much. No need to chisel out a large hole. Start by drilling a hole in the corner and then either use a coping saw if it's near the edge or a stab/jab saw. You wanted cheap and hand tools are an option. Whether it's worth your time depends on what you're doing and how much you enjoy the process versus the results.
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Aug 26, 2015 04:55
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I'd be making playhouses (play stands) and wooden kitchens or other playsets. I want to do it primarily for my kids but wouldn't mind making them for others if I make jigs \templates The thing is that most of these qooden setsnthat aren't poo poo (mdf and fiber) use the word "waldorf" which adds like 50% to the price of what they should be.
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Aug 26, 2015 05:05
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His Divine Shadow posted:I have the euro equivalent to this. It cost and arm and a leg, but I really like it. Only negative thing is it came with a 12mm collet instead of a 1/2" collet so now I gotta get a 1/2" collet somewhere: Another complaint I might add is that the router I linked is gently caress off huge. The listed HP is higher than my Grizzly table saw. So if you are doing finer work you might want to consider a smaller router for easier use.
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Aug 26, 2015 12:09
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tater_salad posted:I'd be making playhouses (play stands) and wooden kitchens or other playsets. I want to do it primarily for my kids but wouldn't mind making them for others if I make jigs \templates Circular saw and miter saw will get you a long way.
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Aug 26, 2015 13:59
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Yes I know they will but again if a $50 tool and a $60 set of bits worked well enough to keep me from having to do the extra cleanup from a circular saw I figured why not. My next step if I can get folks interested is to make a proper jig for the cuts with my circular saw. That way I'm not spending 1/2 the time making them adjusting my circular saw guides and lining up drill holes.
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Aug 26, 2015 15:43
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tater_salad posted:I wouldn't care about depth of cut adjustments foe the pkunge.. but.... I'd want it to hold the depth setting for the bit. Ie the rounding bit would need to be set so the flat piece isn't sitting 8n contact with the wood. the only reason I wanted plunge was to make the interior cuts easier so I didn't need to tip in.. I'm not going to set the depth At 2 3/4.. maybe.. just maybe I'd do a joint or two but that would be possible with a fixed base. You will use the plunge function even if it isn't to make plunge cuts. So you will want decent depth of cut control.
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Aug 27, 2015 02:02
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Sylink posted:Another complaint I might add is that the router I linked is gently caress off huge. The listed HP is higher than my Grizzly table saw. So if you are doing finer work you might want to consider a smaller router for easier use. Those HP ratings really are not commensurate. There's no way my 3 horse router can keep up with my 1 1/2 horse shaper motor. But yeah, you don't want a max router for tiny roundovers....also the variable speed option is a blessing from heaven, I must say. Also for my Bosch diss, I totally forgot my Bosch 4x24 belt sander which I've owned for ever, and which has worked like a mule and been thoroughly abused, but still hogs like a boss when asked.
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Aug 27, 2015 02:18
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Any suggestions on a staple gun that can handle both normal staples and some type of insulated cable staple (mainly for CAT5)? Manual, not air powered.
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Aug 31, 2015 02:39
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Aug 31, 2015 03:00
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So this might be a bit of an outside question, I hope I'm in the right area. My best friend is an architect and is getting married in a month. Where should I look to find old architectural drawing tools and like a nice display case as a gift? There are some on ebay in decent shape, but some have damage, I'd like it to all be functional.
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Sep 2, 2015 19:39
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There is some old drafting kits and stuff like that on Etsy, in the vintage area. But it looks pretty similar to what I've seen on ebay. Maybe you could try visiting a local college with an architecture program. You might get some local clues like 'check out Dan's Antiques on main st, he loves this kind of thing'.
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Sep 2, 2015 20:16
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red19fire posted:So this might be a bit of an outside question, I hope I'm in the right area. My best friend is an architect and is getting married in a month. Where should I look to find old architectural drawing tools and like a nice display case as a gift? There are some on ebay in decent shape, but some have damage, I'd like it to all be functional. I'd say ebay as well. You could check local thrift stores or whatever but it'd probably be a waste of time.
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Sep 2, 2015 20:37
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I know there's oil free and oil lubricated air compressors. Do they both use the same kind of universal electric motors? Like if I buy a broken/old compressor will I be able to take the motor out and use it for some other woodworking tool or do some compressors have some kind of specialized non-standard motors? I'm looking specifically at this ad for a broken compressor that leaks oil now. Would I be able to buy that and use the 15amp motor for something else like a jointer or a bandsaw?
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Sep 5, 2015 05:31
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Squibbles posted:I know there's oil free and oil lubricated air compressors. Do they both use the same kind of universal electric motors? Like if I buy a broken/old compressor will I be able to take the motor out and use it for some other woodworking tool or do some compressors have some kind of specialized non-standard motors? The RPM on the compressor motor may differ from a typical jointer or bandsaw, but I think they're the same induction type motors. Solution to RPM is to change out pulley sizes until you get the math right. e. For instance, when I needed a motor for my table saw,(typically 3450 RPM) the tool house I used to frequent didn't have anything in the HP range I wanted. But they had some bigass 5HP compressor motors at 1725 RPM. I got one and doubled the pulley size on it, walla. Mr. Mambold fucked around with this message at 15:21 on Sep 5, 2015 |
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Sep 5, 2015 15:19
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Mr. Mambold posted:The RPM on the compressor motor may differ from a typical jointer or bandsaw, but I think they're the same induction type motors. Solution to RPM is to change out pulley sizes until you get the math right. Yeah I was just wondering if some use different types of motors that wouldn't work for other purposes. Like how vacuum motors are of a different design and wouldn't work to power something like a bandsaw afaik.
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Sep 5, 2015 15:29
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Have had Makita drill/driver, came in a kit with a case, charger and two of the 1.5ah LXT batteries, (The compact ones,) and it's been fairly needs suiting for a while. However, I'm just buying my first house so decided to grab a few more cordless tools to move in with for basic household shits, so... Looks like I'm fully invested now into the Makita LXT world of brand affinity. Not regretting it so far, but only done some basic stuff to test out the tools.
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Sep 6, 2015 01:27
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No Makita vibrator yet? Pffft.
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Sep 6, 2015 03:23
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kid sinister posted:No Makita vibrator yet? Pffft. You know, I was thinking the oscillating punch cut multitool would probably suffice as an industrial magic wand if you could get an attachment to mount on it right....
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Sep 6, 2015 03:47
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So after poking around for best bang for my buck around I picked up a craftsman router the other day and so far seems good. 109 gets a 12 amp motor with soft start replaceable brushes and work lights. Fixed and plunge bases. I haven't played much with the plunge but it seems to hold its adjustments well. Unless you use the motor release and clamp it back again. (No clue why you'd do this) The collet nut is a bit sticky you think it's hand tight and let go of the bit and it drops in. This makes putting the bit in tricky and you need 3 hands to make it easy.. I'm going to clean it all up and see if I got some dust or a burr in there. Also included Carrying bag with interior pockets and straps. Dust collector with an adapter for hose sizes. Edge guide. Next step is to flush out my bit collection.. picked up a starter ryobi kit. My plan is to replace bits that break with bosch or smilar. Also pick up a 1" long flush trim bit with bottom bearing How are mlcs bits? They seem like they're really into woodworking and tools but never heard of em until I saw bits on amazon / their store.
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Sep 6, 2015 15:19
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