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Hi! I just got into minitures painting recently. I re-painted a heroclix figure (starfire, because I didn't like her super skimpy clothing) and I did a cool workshop at Dragonflight a few weeks ago (which I got to keep a free figure, which was nice. The person running it was really cool.). So now I'm trying it out on my own, I picked up a Bones Holy Vindicator, and some more paint, and some "green stuff" to do a mod on it, but I realized the paints are the normal kinds of paints I've used before. One is a "Layer" paint (the light yellow), and the other a "dry" paint (silver), which is more solid. I used them, and they are looking alright (I added a little water to my brush after putting paint on with the dry paint). but Is there anything I should know about working with these paints? Are these for specific tasks and I should get other kind of paint in the future? This is the workshop one, a archer:   Needs some more touchup work. I realized I accidentally touched the bow when doing whites on the eyes, but I like how the hilights turned out. And for the curious, here's the holy vindicator, which is a work in progress. I'm turning him into a literal Onion-head knight:  I havn't painted the cape yet, and I'm not really liking the face, but I'm not sure how to make it look good. Edit: Sorry forgot to /timg
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Aug 26, 2015 02:27
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:I'm about to paint up ImpAss next month. I watched a couple of that guys videos. He's got a lot of bad habits: overloaded brushes, not taking colors to opaque/ poor basecoat, haphazard washes, that glazing... Yikes. Those poor sable brushes. If you really want, watch a couple of dr. Faust painting clinic or something. Somebody probably has some good youtube recommendations. Mostly though just paint. Pierzak posted:Your standard cyanoacrylate superglue should work, I use two-part epoxy on those because they're more bendy and easier to break again. Thanks again!
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Aug 26, 2015 02:57
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Excellent tutorial!
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Aug 26, 2015 03:07
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HardCoil posted:Procreate and magicsculp is what I use for hard edges. Magicsulp is the harder of the two I feel. You can mix both with greenstuff for varying results Yeah, I got some Procreate because the nerd store didn't have any Privateer. I'll see how I like it. First step: resculpting a finger onto a Dark Age mini.
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Aug 26, 2015 05:12
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Note, that the better the material is for hard edges the less sticky it is. Greenstuff is often best for fixing small things, simply because it doesn't fall off your model.
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Aug 26, 2015 13:07
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Quick crosspost from the Warmahordes thread. What is everyone's take on the P3 inks and washes?
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Aug 26, 2015 13:32
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Iron Crowned posted:Quick crosspost from the Warmahordes thread. What is everyone's take on the P3 inks and washes? I like em
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Aug 26, 2015 14:26
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BULBASAUR posted:Big rear end basing post.
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Aug 26, 2015 14:29
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Foolster41 posted:One is a "Layer" paint (the light yellow), and the other a "dry" paint (silver), which is more solid. I used them, and they are looking alright (I added a little water to my brush after putting paint on with the dry paint). but Is there anything I should know about working with these paints? The Citadel "Layer" paints are what they call their standard colors. "Dry" are thick paints meant for drybrushing, which is a technique where you wipe most of the paint from the bristles, then brush the tips over a textured surface like fur or armour. It creates a rough, textured look. There are two basic approaches to painting armor - one is to base-coat black, drybrush gunmetal, then another drybrush of silver, focusing more on raised areas and edges. The other approach is to base-coat silver, then use washes (usually black) to bring the brightness down and add depth to grooves, etc. If you haven't already, get your hands on some washes - black and brown are the basic ones. They're extremely thin inks that flow into detail and immediately add definition to flat paint jobs.
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Aug 26, 2015 15:08
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Electric Hobo posted:You varnish over static grass? I've always been told that's a bad idea. Is it just a quick airbrushing? Hell, I paint right over static grass on my ebay rescues. Why would varnishing static grass be a bad thing?
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Aug 26, 2015 15:44
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So Army Painter just put out a new set of their Quickshade Inks that includes a new 'Flesh Tone'. I've ordered it from my FLGS but I've never used AP inks before. Anyone with experience have some tips to offer? Are they best diluted? What about washing with them?
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Aug 26, 2015 16:02
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Can that black lava stuff be used straight as asphalt?
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Aug 26, 2015 16:03
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krushgroove posted:Hell, I paint right over static grass on my ebay rescues. Why would varnishing static grass be a bad thing? Don't know. People have just told me that it looks like poo poo. It's good to know that I can do paint it however I want with no problem.
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Aug 26, 2015 16:05
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For me, ebay rescues are conversion/bitz fodder or just going to be painted over to be bulk army units, it's not like I'm using them for display models or whatever. A quick drybrush gets color on the grass bits and they're done. But you can strip/scrape/burn away the static grass on models you get to put in your own colors of grass.
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Aug 26, 2015 16:22
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Iron Crowned posted:Quick crosspost from the Warmahordes thread. What is everyone's take on the P3 inks and washes? The couple inks I have are incredibly strong. Like artist grade ink strong. Which is fine and often very useful, but why not just buy a pot of artist ink for the same price and 3x more ink at that point.
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Aug 26, 2015 16:29
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Re: static grass & varnish, I think the main issue with it is if you spray varnish and haven't shaken the grass fully off the base, and end up with your jewel-like objects of wonder suddenly covered in loose static grass that has just been varnished onto it.  Never brush-painted over static grass here, so you're probably OK to do that. I just varnish everything else first, plop a blob of some matte medium down (Mod Podge works great), attach static grass, and call it a day.  Here's a couple of Brits for Bolt Action to show how I do basing (used basing stuff by Army Painter and Gale Force 9). 
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Aug 26, 2015 16:47
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I Am The Scum posted:Can that black lava stuff be used straight as asphalt? Probably. It might actually be a little more coarse than you want for asphalt at your average miniature scale, but if you're careful to smooth it out well I think it would be fine. I love Black Lava, but another thing to note is it's messy as hell. If you're applying it to something that you don't plan to ultimately prime and paint over you've gotta be super careful; It gets everywhere, and while it wipes up easily it tends to leave behind almost metallic silvery residue. I'd be iffy on applying it to an otherwise finished piece if that's your intention.
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Aug 26, 2015 16:47
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I Am The Scum posted:Can that black lava stuff be used straight as asphalt? Yeah, I use it as asphault on my Deadzone duders: 
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Aug 26, 2015 16:48
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Speaking of basing pastes, what's a good one to use on smaller scales, like 6-10 mm, when you still want something a bit coarse but even fine sand looks like large pebbles?
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Aug 26, 2015 16:50
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MasterSlowPoke posted:Yeah, I use it as asphault on my Deadzone duders: I assumed his question was if it needs paint.
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Aug 26, 2015 17:37
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will blow your mind.
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:The Citadel "Layer" paints are what they call their standard colors. "Dry" are thick paints meant for drybrushing, which is a technique where you wipe most of the paint from the bristles, then brush the tips over a textured surface like fur or armour. It creates a rough, textured look. Okay, so Layer IS the normal stuff. Thanks!
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Aug 26, 2015 20:59
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Electric Hobo posted:Don't know. People have just told me that it looks like poo poo. It's good to know that I can do paint it however I want with no problem. I've never heard this or had trouble with it. As with most painting things, if you use thin layers and thin your varnish you shouldn't have problems. I spray my varnish through an airbrush though so maybe that's a factor?
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Aug 26, 2015 22:03
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BULBASAUR posted:I've never heard this or had trouble with it. As with most painting things, if you use thin layers and thin your varnish you shouldn't have problems. I spray my varnish through an airbrush though so maybe that's a factor? I airbrush my varnish too. I've just always placed the grass after I varnished since I didn't want to mess anything up. Granted, the people who said never to varnish your grass aren't even close to the level of skill and experience that's in this thread, so they were just dead wrong. At least I know better now 
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Aug 26, 2015 22:15
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Foolster41 posted:Okay, so Layer IS the normal stuff. Thanks! No problem! If you're using Citadel paints* you'll also come across Base, Shade, Glaze and Technical. Base are quite similar to Layer, just with more pigment - the idea is that they will more easily cover any undercoat. Shade are the washes I was talking about - you probably want to pick up at least Nuln Oil, which is a multi-purpose black wash, plus whatever the brown one is called. Glaze is similar to Shade, but it doesn't pool in recesses as much, sitting more on the surface. It's good for tinting colours. Technical covers a wide range of things - mostly it's textured paint for weathering/basing, but also "liquid greenstuff" for gap filling (don't buy this, it's poo poo), matt medium for mixing, etc. * If you have a choice, don't use Citadel paints except for maybe their metallics and washes. They're massively overpriced and the pot designs suck. Try other ranges like Vallejo, Game Color, and the like.
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Aug 27, 2015 00:02
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:Try other ranges like Vallejo, Game Color, and the like. Just to clarify: Game Color is a line of Vallejo products. Vallejo Model Color is real nice too if you need more "realistic" colors. Privateer also makes some good paints. While it's a bit high-effort, I usually look online for examples of the paints in use, especially for problem colors like red, white, and yellow. Definitely don't feel the need to be loyal to a particular brand; get the paints that work best for your purposes.
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Aug 27, 2015 00:22
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Vallejo/Panzer Aces, Reaper, Privateer, Army Painter and Foundry are all top of the line. I'd like to put Coat D'Arms in there as well, but they're apparently super inconsistent, which is a shame because they're the original Citadel Colours (round and hex vinyl flip-top bottles) manufacturer.
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Aug 27, 2015 01:04
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I'll have to see what they have at my local game shop. They might only have citadel at my shop besides larger bottles of cheaper I think paints that have far fewer choices of colors.
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Aug 27, 2015 01:50
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:"liquid greenstuff" for gap filling (don't buy this, it's poo poo) Yup. Its a neat idea but I can't get it to apply very well, and it ALWAYS dries out after like a week. Has anyone had any luck with it?
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Aug 27, 2015 02:18
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Foolster41 posted:I'll have to see what they have at my local game shop. They might only have citadel at my shop besides larger bottles of cheaper I think paints that have far fewer choices of colors. Here are a few reference charts that show swatches of paints taken from actual photographs (granted, unless you've perfectly calibrated your monitor, this won't be totally accurate). I've found it useful for figuring out which VMC paints to grab, since Vallejo's swatches seem inaccurate in some cases: http://www.danbecker.info/minis/miniother/PaintCharts/. I would be super-pumped if I could get good-quality (physical) swatches of all the various paint ranges. 
Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 02:23 on Aug 27, 2015 |
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Aug 27, 2015 02:21
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BULBASAUR posted:AMAZING TUTORIAL Thank you so much for this, I've been unhappy with my bases for ages and been looking for a way to make them pop a little more. Tried a simplified version of it out last night and absolutely loved the results. EDIT: I also bought some of the soil effect tamiya color diorama paints (Linky). If anyone's interested in how they look in practice I can post some pictures. hooman fucked around with this message at 02:32 on Aug 27, 2015 |
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Aug 27, 2015 02:28
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hooman posted:Thank you so much for this, I've been unhappy with my bases for ages and been looking for a way to make them pop a little more. Tried a simplified version of it out last night and absolutely loved the results. Glad to help! You should definitely share pictures of how yours turned out. Would be cool to see examples of the tamiya color diorama paints too.
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Aug 27, 2015 04:31
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BULBASAUR posted:Glad to help! You should definitely share pictures of how yours turned out. Would be cool to see examples of the tamiya color diorama paints too. Here you go, 2 of the bases I did last night: The base on the left I coated with Tamiya Soil effect, sprinkled on some Talus brown fine fill for some chunkier rocks, then washed with badab black and devlan mud. I glued on some pieces of cork afterwards, painted with fortress grey, washed with devlan mud then drybrushed with skull white. Then some glue, some static grass and holding upside down while tapping and blowing. The base on the right I glued the cork on first, then used the tamiya soil effect second. This resulted in quite a bit of the soil effect getting onto the "rocks" but once painted fortress grey ended up looking quite good, didn't add any fill to this one but otherwise followed the same method as above.    Still got some cleanup to do around the edges but pretty happy with how they came out. Here's one of my Satyxis raiders on the new base! Still needs a little touch up and sealing but very happy with the result.  EDIT: For reference here's how my old bases look. 
hooman fucked around with this message at 12:59 on Aug 27, 2015 |
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Aug 27, 2015 12:47
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So through a family friend I might be able to get a free airbrush. Besides priming and varnishing what other things can you do with an airbrush?
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Aug 27, 2015 21:13
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It's an entire new skillset. You can do a ton of things. Check out the airbrush post at the start of this thread.
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Aug 27, 2015 21:35
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Got tired of painting blue and wanted to do something different for the Extreme Mauler.  
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Aug 28, 2015 01:02
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that is super fuckin rad my friend
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Aug 28, 2015 01:04
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So upthread I was asking about painting some Star Wars dudes for my board game - now I'm looking at piecing together a starting kit. I had some old gw screw top paints and brushes, but they're back at my parents' house in another state so I'm going to work under the assumption that they're all garbage for now and if they happen to still be useable down the road when I can get ahold of them, so much the better. That said, I'm not sure which direction to go in terms of actual paint: like I said for now I'm just painting star wars dudes, and all imperial to start, so most of what I'll be doing is restricted to white, greys, blacks, browns, reds and metallics, plus associated washes/inks. Maybe a little bit of blue detailing and a bit of flesh here and there. Given the restrictive color scheme should I: a) get my paints all piecemeal b) get a small/basic starter set and fill out with individual pots as needed c) get a bigger, more comprehensive set. I've been looking mostly at Vallejo since they seem highly recommended, have a wide variety of smaller sets and seem to have a lot of direct analogues to citadel from their game colour line. My reasoning on the last bit was since I'll be starting from scratch skill wise and a lot of tutorials, blogs, guides reference paints by GW names, I figured it would just be easier if, while learning, I can look up a counterpart rather than try to eyeball stuff and guess if it'll behave the same. I was also looking at army painter, but I wasn't able to find a good comparison/compatibility chart that included their paints. The main upside there being that they're significantly cheaper in quantity than the Vallejo stuff. Like, I'm not sure how deep into painting I'll get yet and it seems more reasonable to blow $100 on a big set than to drop $225 for example. Any goon preference between the two brands, or anything else I should consider or be aware of? Off the bat, I think I'm looking at around 20 paints including various metallics, inks, washes and base colors just to do storm troopers, imp. officers, droids, walkers, royal guard & vader. I'm not 100% sure what colors I'd want on the heroes & mercenaries/animals yet. Anyway, besides paints themselves, I was planning on getting: a brush set incl. 0, 1, 2, 3? I'll probably look at synthetics to start. I might have some old brushes around for dry brushing etc. a can each of white/grey/black army painter spray primer some glaze medium maybe acrylic medium for old paint mentioned above? Testors dullcote Some sort of satin or gloss varnish to paint on storm trooper armor etc.? Given the varied environments on the board, I'm just gonna do matte grey bases for now with the intention of getting a purpose-made clear acrylic set from litko and rebasing them later. I should have a lot of basic craft supplies around the house like superglue, hobby knives, mat, palette, manual drill etc. Uh, anything else I'm missing or should consider?
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Aug 28, 2015 01:45
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That Mauler reminds me of the old Growler figures from that sci-fi miniatures game Vor, which was awesome.
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Aug 28, 2015 02:16
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Cross posting some poo poo from the PP forums that I just finished up. Pretty happy with both, especially the gorax. My phone did some weird poo poo with the color on the War Hog. It's reds look more true to the gorax.       Could use some advice on the bases. I don't know how many tufts to add. I think it's too bare, or too busy. =\ Alokgen fucked around with this message at 04:20 on Aug 28, 2015 |
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Aug 28, 2015 03:53
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lovely conversion time! So, my FLGS has a contest this month with the theme of "desert." I wasn't sure what I wanted to do until I saw the GW River Trolls package. They normally look like this:  Decided I would convert them into horned toads. One of these beauties:  Oh, the folly of man. It took way longer than it should have, and I was only able to finish one.  Note the blood squirting from his eye. I snipped a bit off of the fish vomit that comes in the kit and glued it into the eye. If you're familiar with the trolls, you may notice a few extra spikes on the head. That was most of my conversion work right there, making spikes out of greenstuff and gluing them on. Cow skull is from the Malifaux ghost town basing accessories.  It's really not the greatest shading/highlighting job ever, but for the first half of the paint job, I was convinced I had utterly wrecked it and would need to strip and start over. I could not get the brown and the tan to blend neatly, until I kept going with different mixes and eventually got to the point where it blended smoothly.  So, not the greatest spikes in the world. I tried, guys, but I don't work with greenstuff very often. The cactus is from the same kit as the skull.  You can't really see it here, but there are bits of orange tinting on some of his back scales.  Base was basically just a thin layer of greenstuff so it wouldn't be flat, painted with a dark tan, and then with sand glued to it. EDIT: I'm not sure why he's so greenish in the pictures. In real life, he's varying shades of brown and tan.
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Aug 28, 2015 06:43
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