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The problem is they are all marked up at the dealer except maybe the extended warranty. But they still make more money on it than it pays out. For example the window etch is $200 at the dealer, $20 DIY with the same insurance discount. Edit: thanks for letting me know about the insurance discount. I bought a Tundra two months ago and the dealer did it without my approval, claiming it was mandatory. rdb fucked around with this message at 18:50 on Aug 26, 2015 |
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Aug 26, 2015 18:45
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Ozmiander posted:All your examples of things to avoid are actually Good Things (tm). VIN Etchings lower your insurance, Undercoating extends the life of your car if you aren't in the west and an extended warranty is generally cheaper than paying out of pocket. I think the idea isn't that getting them is a bad thing, it's that you can get them much, much cheaper elsewhere and you won't be paying for them over a 3-5 year loan.
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Aug 26, 2015 18:47
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Morter posted:Would this be a place to ask for car buying advice? In particular, I know what I want--looking at a specific car in a specific dealership-- but I've never been to a dealership before, and I want to know what I'm getting into before I do it. AI meets BFC: Car Buying Thread: No Rentals and No Salvage Titles is the best thread on SA for car-buying advice.
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Aug 26, 2015 18:48
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I have a 98 Dodge Dakota, 4x4 with the 3.9L V6 engine. It is driven rarely nowadays, maybe once every 3 weeks about 20 miles. From time to time, I will smell a weird plastic burning smell. The other day I started getting this, and it turned into a "fire" smell, and then a lot of white smoke started coming from the passenger side front wheel well area. I got out and popped the hood and there was white smoke coming out of the engine, seemed like from the bottom of the engine. Additionally, the truck was severely lacking in power, if I took my foot of the brake, it wouldn't move forward at all, and I had to really give it some gas to even move, and it was kind of herky jerky. I had a lot of trouble getting it to go over 20 mph to limp home. Today, started it up and it drives fine and no smell. What could be going on? I am clueless here.
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Aug 26, 2015 20:33
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My first instinct is "look at the brake rotor on that wheel".
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Aug 26, 2015 20:39
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That's definitely what I thought at first too, but the smoke seemed to be coming out of the engine somehow. It's had brake problems before, so maybe I should take another look. Another thing I considered was head gasket but there's no water in the oil. Also that should result in white exhaust not engine smoke I think.
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Aug 26, 2015 20:51
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Ozmiander posted:All your examples of things to avoid are actually Good Things (tm). VIN Etchings lower your insurance, Undercoating extends the life of your car if you aren't in the west and an extended warranty is generally cheaper than paying out of pocket. VIN etching discount only applies for some companies and it is usually such a paltry amount it would take decades to recoup the cost Dealer undercoat are usually marked up to hell. You can often score the very same factory extended warranty online. Many forums have dealer reps who will quote and sell that warranty for significantly cheaper. If you can quote this and get the dealer you buy from to match it's usually a good price.
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Aug 26, 2015 22:50
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Bovril Delight posted:VIN etching discount only applies for some companies and it is usually such a paltry amount it would take decades to recoup the cost Then negotiate. You're negotiating the car, why wouldn't you on the rest?
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Aug 26, 2015 23:58
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In general, how hard is replacing a fuel pump? I have an MG, and my friend has one too. His fuel pump appears to have poo poo the bed (makes no noise, engine cranks but fails to turn over).
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Aug 27, 2015 02:25
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Top Hats Monthly posted:In general, how hard is replacing a fuel pump? I have an MG, and my friend has one too. His fuel pump appears to have poo poo the bed (makes no noise, engine cranks but fails to turn over). MG what? My Midget's fuel pump stopped working, but I eventually found that a wire had come disconnected under the dash.
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Aug 27, 2015 02:29
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Top Hats Monthly posted:In general, how hard is replacing a fuel pump? I have an MG, and my friend has one too. His fuel pump appears to have poo poo the bed (makes no noise, engine cranks but fails to turn over). 75-on had a mechanical pump on the right side of the engine. It's easy as pie to change. There was a part change sometime in 78 so make sure you get the right one. Moss has a diagram. Prior to 75 was electric and somewhere under the trunk. I don't know exactly, but it's still pretty accessible. I'm on my 4th Midget, but I'm more 1500-familiar.
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Aug 27, 2015 02:46
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eddiewalker posted:Prior to 75 was electric and somewhere under the trunk. I don't know exactly, but it's still pretty accessible. I'm on my 4th Midget, but I'm more 1500-familiar. You pull the right rear wheel and it's under there. Very accessible.
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Aug 27, 2015 02:50
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Ozmiander posted:Then negotiate. You're negotiating the car, why wouldn't you on the rest? Of course. The problem is that while there are tons of resources on what a good price for the car is, there is very limited info on these. It you're not knowledgeable you stand a much higher chance of getting hosed.
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Aug 27, 2015 03:05
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I think I've sorted out the pickup's misfiring problem (1986 Mazda B2000). Now I'm trying to figure out two things: why does the v-belt squeal for about 3 seconds when I first start it up, and why does it occasionally blow lots of white smoke out the tailpipe when I start it? The white smoke only seems to come when it's starting from cold, and it goes away after a minute, but there's a fuckload of it.
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Aug 27, 2015 03:21
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Belt is loose and/or glazed. Smoke is probably valve guides or head gasket. Leakdown will tell you for sure.
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Aug 27, 2015 05:30
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A family friend had a B2200 of similar vintage that would literally smoke out our entire street when warming up on cold mornings. Burned no coolant, but it wasn't valve stem seals either (replaced those, zero improvement). Best we could ever figure was a ring issue that resolved itself when warm. It kept doing it for years until it eventually needed a new engine - I wasn't involved with it anymore at that point so I don't know what ended up being the final straw for the engine.
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Aug 27, 2015 07:20
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1973 VW bay window bus. I have a leak in my new master cylinder, but I'm not sure if it's a real leak or I'm doing something wrong. 211611021AA - Master Cylinder, Dual Circuit, For use with Power Brakes from SoCalImport I tried reseating it, and checking o-rings, but this is a constant, slow drip. One big drip every five seconds or so that I can stop by putting my finger over it. Pumping the brakes does not make it worse. Is there supposed to be a plug for this hole, or is this a faulty cylinder, or what? Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 08:03 on Aug 27, 2015 |
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Aug 27, 2015 07:32
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Is this a new, rebuilt, or rebuilt-by-you MC?
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Aug 27, 2015 07:55
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Allegedly new
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Aug 27, 2015 08:01
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Take it back, provided you haven't left any marks or anything indicating that you've taken it to bits.
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Aug 27, 2015 08:02
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So I'm in the process of installing a custom 2.25" strut tower spacer lift in my 06 Outback wagon, first problem I run into is that my tires rub on the rear springs. So wheel spacers are ordered, should be here any day. Second problem is the front spacers are too small, so I sent pictures/measurements to the guy who built them and new ones should be in the mail soon too. Yesterday I pulled out the rear spacers and discovered that I bent one (or maybe both) of my rear springs. I'm a careless cro-magnon and didn't realize that the rear struts aren't reversible... so how much am I risking by re-installing them the right way and hoping they maybe bend a little bit back into shape? Do I need new springs? Do I also need new struts? Is it a bad idea to opt for stiffer rear springs (Rallitek or King Springs) while leaving OEM springs up front? They're not dramatically hosed up, just a little bent, and it's difficult to tell if the struts were affected at all.
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Aug 27, 2015 18:23
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Ok, I am a fountain of stupid questions. 00 4Runner, 166k mi. Had brakes done/rotors resurfaced a few months back. I've noticed recently that I've developed a light metallic clank or click from the front end when braking--basically as soon as the brakes engage it makes the noise. It's repeatable and consistent regardless of weather or moisture. I'm not sure but it sounds like it's coming from the driver's side front. There is no change to the quality of braking. Everything feels normal, but the noise is decidedly abnormal. If I ever get off work, I'm going to pull the wheels and inspect the brakes/spindles/etc. and look for signs of what could be causing it. Is there anything in particular I should look out for? Could it be a failing LBJ? Anyone experience something similar?
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Aug 27, 2015 23:52
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Sometimes people leave out the little tensioning springs/shims that go around and under the pad pins and it can cause noises. A bad ball joint won't be audible from inside the cabin unless your wheel is about to fall off. It's also possible that they hosed up putting the 4WD hub gubbins together. Basically just check everything.
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Aug 28, 2015 01:32
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Pham Nuwen posted:I think I've sorted out the pickup's misfiring problem (1986 Mazda B2000). why does it occasionally blow lots of white smoke out the tailpipe when I start it? The white smoke only seems to come when it's starting from cold, and it goes away after a minute, but there's a fuckload of it. Unlikely, but my BMW did this for awhile (before I was a DIY car guy). I finally took it in to the shop and the guy laughed and pointed out that my oil dipstick wasn't seated in all the way. Pushed it in and it never did it again.
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Aug 28, 2015 04:00
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So my car is literally under about 14" of water and was under more earlier. I've never had an accident or dealt with car insurance ever aside from sending them money. What exactly do I need to do to fix this?     To add salt to the wound I bought this car 2 weeks ago tomorrow.
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Aug 28, 2015 07:22
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This is why you have insurance. Call them, say "my car is in a flooded parking garage, and has water inside", and hope you opted for rental coverage. And GAP insurance, either in the loan or with your insurance, since if you just bought it, you're probably upside down on it a bit. You'll pay your deductible to the body shop/dealer/whatever when they finish repairing the car, or if it winds up being a total, the bank that holds the loan will get a check minus your deductible. Floods usually result in a total unless it's a rather expensive vehicle, simply because so many electronics live so low in the vehicle, and the chance of future issues showing up down the road from the water damage is high. There's a very good chance your insurance will sue the owners of the parking garage; if they do, and they win, you generally get your deductible back, and the claim usually gets changed to not be your fault. What's the story on the flooding anyway? edit: I wouldn't even try to start it - your insurance could potentially use that as "well, it could have been repairable if the owner hadn't tried to drive it...". Get Uber or find some other way to get home, but get the claim started before you leave, and get pictures of both the inside and outside, preferably with a flash so you can see how high the water got inside. As high as the water line is, if that white SUV is yours, you're looking at pretty severe damage to the interior and a lot of electronics. Stuff like seatbelt pre-tensioners ($$), airbag controllers ($$$), ABS controller ($$$$), engine computer if they mounted it somewhere stupid ($$$$$), power seats ($$), etc. There's so much electronic poo poo in a modern car that it will cost a fortune to repair something like that AND give it a lifetime warranty (which most insurance companies do if you use an approved shop). If the door seals wound up being unicorn farts and magic, you might just have damp carpet. That's pretty unlikely, but you may want to wait to open the doors until the water goes down a bit. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:39 on Aug 28, 2015 |
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Aug 28, 2015 07:34
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Nothing exciting, it rained hard all night tonight. I have Progressive insurance with their "gap" insurance which isn't really gap insurance but up to 25% above the pay out to cover the loan. I called them tonight and verified I have comprehensive coverage which includes flood damage so that's a plus. I'm worried they'll play down the problem and down the road my car will end up having issues but I may be jumping the gun on this. My partner's work vehicle was having a rave light-fest while the car next to his had a malfunctioning alarm. Rental coverage isn't a huge issue for me as I work from home.. My last car was a 3 year 30K lease and I put 10K miles on it. I can survive without a car. I'll be pretty sad though if I end up paying extra on this car though 
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Aug 28, 2015 07:42
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Wow that sucks. I hope they just total it...it's unlikely to ever be like it was prior to this.
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Aug 28, 2015 07:45
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Godholio posted:Wow that sucks. I hope they just total it...it's unlikely to ever be like it was prior to this. At least in my experience, Progressive tends to be fairly reasonable to deal with when you're the policy holder. Though I haven't heard of that "up to 25%" "GAP insurance" they offer. I wound up rolling GAP into my loan - knew it'd cost a little more than doing it through insurance, but at least that way I knew it was a sure thing. Think it added $300-350 over a 5 year loan? And yeah, cross your fingers and hope for a total, most of the invisible electronics (ABS, security, etc - stuff that tends to live under the carpet or seats) are likely damaged, and the carpet (along with padding, sound deadening, etc) is the very least that will need replacement - you're looking at thousands right there. Start checking craigslist and car dealer online ads for a similar vehicle, and print them, in case they try to lowball you (they might or might not - I haven't had a total with Progressive, but I did get jerked around pretty bad by one claim agent who refused to authorize stuff as minor as a boot for a tie rod and some screws to attach the fender liner). I've only had one insurance total, and got what I felt was a very reasonable offer ($2000 less than what I paid for the car 4 years prior), but that was a different insurance company. Best of luck with it.
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Aug 28, 2015 08:07
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flyboi posted:To add salt to the wound I bought this car 2 weeks ago tomorrow. Holding on to this car will be a nightmare of years of strange electric issues and blinking dashlights, unless you want to spend a few hours per week working on your car for several years. Angle for your insurance to call it a total loss, even if you have to pay a deductible and the remaining about of the loan. Think of it as a two week car rental, then go buy another car.
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Aug 28, 2015 15:23
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When you do get rid of it, look forward to seeing it for sale somewhere, listed as 'excellent condition'
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Aug 28, 2015 15:38
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In addition to the electrical woes, seals on passenger vehicles almost never stand up to immersion. You'll have water in all of the mechanical bits that were soaked. Wheel bearings, probably your transmission, any differentials, etc. It will be less than if you had been driving through it, but enough to warrant replacing all of those lubricants; I wouldn't be surprised if you couldn't repack any of the wheel bearings and had to replace them instead.
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Aug 28, 2015 15:48
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Well as an update I filed my claim and Progressive is giving me up to 2 business days to get back to me. They said my local office is open on weekends so hopefully they get back to me sooner. The car is completely hosed up and I doubt they will be able to fix it. There was standing water in the car when I got to it this morning, the floorboards are completely drenched and the electrical system is malfunctioning to say the least. When my neighbor cleared his shelf away from my car I found the seat is set all the way forwards and the controls no longer allow me to move it. Starting the car caused ~10+ gallons of water to come rushing out of the exhaust however it did turn over. Every time I turn the electrical on the car automatically tries to do a SOS call and fails as well. Happy Friday!  
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Aug 28, 2015 16:23
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It actually started? How did it sound? If there was water in the air filter box you probably damaged the engine to the point of a complete rebuild. Water in the exhaust = not a big deal. Water in the intake = $$$. Edit: Based on that water line it's probably ok. I can't imagine BMW would put the intake lower than that. Not on one of these.
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Aug 28, 2015 16:31
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flyboi posted:Well as an update I filed my claim and Progressive is giving me up to 2 business days to get back to me. They said my local office is open on weekends so hopefully they get back to me sooner. The car is completely hosed up and I doubt they will be able to fix it. There was standing water in the car when I got to it this morning, the floorboards are completely drenched and the electrical system is malfunctioning to say the least. When my neighbor cleared his shelf away from my car I found the seat is set all the way forwards and the controls no longer allow me to move it. Starting the car caused ~10+ gallons of water to come rushing out of the exhaust however it did turn over. Every time I turn the electrical on the car automatically tries to do a SOS call and fails as well. Happy Friday! Remember where everybody told you not to try starting it? What happened to that?
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Aug 28, 2015 16:33
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Pham Nuwen posted:Remember where everybody told you not to try starting it? What happened to that? I asked Progressive if I should drive it and they said that if it works that it was ok and to check if it functioned. Engine sounded fine, only the exhaust got water in it.
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Aug 28, 2015 16:36
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Here's the fun thing about questions like that: they're meaningless if it goes south. It's not in writing, and if you destroyed the car then guess who destroyed the car?
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Aug 28, 2015 16:41
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We shall see.
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Aug 28, 2015 16:44
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flyboi posted:I asked Progressive if I should drive it and they said that if it works that it was ok and to check if it functioned. Engine sounded fine, only the exhaust got water in it. In some ways, I can see the sense in deliberately hydralocking it, to make sure it is written-off. As it's been pointed it, that car will never be good again, no matter what they do. Even to the point of pouring a bucket of flood water down the air intake.
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Aug 28, 2015 17:25
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spog posted:In some ways, I can see the sense in deliberately hydralocking it, to make sure it is written-off. As it's been pointed it, that car will never be good again, no matter what they do. See hydrolocking it at this point would be counterproductive, as they've already been told it was parked and off when the flooding happened.
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Aug 28, 2015 17:38
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