|
Bloody Hedgehog posted:They're a japanese product called Kamizukuri. They're a laser-cut paper product, so you get a few paper sheets of plants with each leaf/frond/whatever attached at a few points, and some wire with a thin paper coating. I sponged on a base color for the plants, then sponged on highlights and some mottling, and brush-painted a few brown spots. Lastly I sponged on a coat of satin varnish, to give the leaves a slight sheen. The wire was painted with a thin green paint as well. I then detached the plants from the main sheet, used some tacky glue to affix them to cut lengths of the wire, and let them dry. Once everything was dry, you can bend the wire and the fronds themselves to get the sort of curve and drape you're looking for. I wish I could get trees and underbrush like that in 1:160 scale. I'm modeling very similar terrain but at N scale you're really limited in how you can depict plants. For the most part you're stuck with generic foliage. What type of bush is that? It's.. a bush.
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2015 21:02
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 11:26 |
|
|
Baronjutter posted:I wish I could get trees and underbrush like that in 1:160 scale. I'm modeling very similar terrain but at N scale you're really limited in how you can depict plants. For the most part you're stuck with generic foliage. What type of bush is that? It's.. a bush. Can you use portions of real plant matter to simulate smaller plants for that scale? The sort of fluffy, reedy plants I used around the edge of the water area was actually from a big sheet of dried moss. I plucked off the individual little fingers of moss, from the substrate, and then they become their own little full-size plants at this scale. Michaels sells really cheap packs of dried mosses, fungus, and lichens that can be separated into smaller parts that scale well with whatever model scale you're going for.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2015 21:22
|
|
|
Bloody Hedgehog posted:Can you use portions of real plant matter to simulate smaller plants for that scale? I'm always worried about using natural materials because I always think they'll rot or lose their colour or something bad will happen. I should look into those.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2015 21:25
|
|
|
It's a great skill to take something that is effectively a model in just one plain drab colour all over and make it as interesting, dynamic and detailed as that. Well done. Greyhawk posted:
I would recommend not using anything but X-20 to be honest.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2015 21:26
|
|
|
big_g posted:I would recommend not using anything but X-20 to be honest. Then I'll delay painting my gun barrel and fetch some fresh x-20 first. Thanks. This thing is going to be huge. Can of primer for scale. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2015 21:39
|
|
|
The entire diorama is great, but I especially love the trees. They look great and also very Endor.Greyhawk posted:Then I'll delay painting my gun barrel and fetch some fresh x-20 first. Thanks. Hahaha, what?! So jealous right now.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2015 21:40
|
|
|
Greyhawk posted:Then I'll delay painting my gun barrel and fetch some fresh x-20 first. Thanks. 1:16th Tiger?
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2015 21:48
|
|
|
lilljonas posted:
It's an old partwork I grabbed cheap of ebay. A Tiger I at 1:16 with full metal chassis, metal track and a complete interior. The previous owner collected all 140 issues, tried to build it and gave up on issue 1, step 3 of.... a few thousand steps roughly. There's some pins that have to fit into slots to build up the barrel. The pins were too long, the slots too shallow, so he sold the whole collection on ebay. Cut the pins, drilled out the slots, fits perfectly.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2015 21:51
|
|
|
Greyhawk posted:Then I'll delay painting my gun barrel and fetch some fresh x-20 first. Thanks. Nice! I've got a huge 1/16 T-72 that's been sitting in my stash for ages now. It's just such an intimidating project to start.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2015 21:52
|
|
|
Bloody Hedgehog posted:Nice! I've got a huge 1/16 T-72 that's been sitting in my stash for ages now. It's just such an intimidating project to start. "Every journey starts with the first step." and all that. The thing I noticed with intimidating projects is that the longer they sit in the stash, the more you're afraid to start them. Once you do though, that fear goes entirely away and resolves into more effort than usual to get things right. I've been filing and sanding and priming this thing for days now to get as perfect a surface as possible.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2015 21:58
|
|
|
Greyhawk posted:Does anyone have a recommendation concerning thinner for Tamija acrylics for airbrushing beside X-20? Rubbing alcohol, available at your local drug store. Get the 99% pure stuff.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2015 23:20
|
|
|
That is an enormous gun, I think it's just actually put me off 1/16.. Methylated spirits will also work with ~some~ tamiya paints, but can cause separation with others. It works well with Desert Yellow, but Field Grey not so much. A methylated spirits/rubbing alcohol mix works better, but there's a few esters in X-20 that help keep the more difficult paints dispersed that you can't easily put in your own mixes. Also how warm is it where you are? If its' quite cool you might find a mix heavier on the methylated spirits works better for you, if it's warm go for more rubbing alcohol. I tend to find nearly straight methylated spirits is good in winter, but dries before it hits the model in summer here.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2015 00:02
|
|
|
Baronjutter posted:I'm always worried about using natural materials because I always think they'll rot or lose their colour or something bad will happen. I should look into those. Soak them in glycerine overnight. They won't change colour , dry out and break or rot.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2015 02:18
|
|
|
Molentik posted:Soak them in glycerine overnight. They won't change colour , dry out and break or rot. True, but most store bought plant matter has already been prepped.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2015 02:24
|
|
|
Bloody Hedgehog posted:Nice! I've got a huge 1/16 T-72 that's been sitting in my stash for ages now. It's just such an intimidating project to start. I've been considering getting a 1:16th tank, but the cost and complexity of every kit of that size is pretty off-putting.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2015 04:17
|
|
|
Ensign Expendable posted:I've been considering getting a 1:16th tank, but the cost and complexity of every kit of that size is pretty off-putting. This made me check e-bay, and it's tempting when I saw that the cheaper kits was less than I expected. Sure, still a lot, but not so much that I couldn't excuse buying one of them, once. The bigger (*drumroll*) question is where the hell I would keep it once built. e: like this one, it looks like a pretty cool kit, and I think I've wasted 120 bucks on worse things in my life. But it is also half a meter long. http://www.hobbylinc.com/trumpeter-russian-tank-t34:85-1944-factory-no-183-plastic-model-military-vehicle-1:16-scale-00902 lilljonas fucked around with this message at 07:48 on Aug 27, 2015 |
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2015 07:44
|
|
|
lilljonas posted:This made me check e-bay, and it's tempting when I saw that the cheaper kits was less than I expected. Sure, still a lot, but not so much that I couldn't excuse buying one of them, once. That's the exact kit I have. It's a beast! There's also two pricey photo-etch sets out there for it to increase the detail even further.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2015 08:13
|
|
|
Bloody Hedgehog posted:That's the exact kit I have. It's a beast! Nice coincidence! Of course. Add the extra paints and weathering powders and everything I'd get to give it a deserving paint job, and we'd talk a lot more than 120 bucks. But yeah, if anyone sees a nice second hand 1/16 kit up for sale that they don't want, give this thread a holler.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2015 08:17
|
|
|
Huh. Quite a lengthy debate spreading in to multiple threads on MSW about steelers/drop-planks.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2015 15:00
|
|
|
Colonial Air Force posted:Huh. Quite a lengthy debate spreading in to multiple threads on MSW about steelers/drop-planks. Bunch of old guys arguing about stuff that is documented to vary wildly by country, era, and just different builders. Some of their 'discussions' are hilarious. Personally I am building models, not 'historic replicas', and I build to make them look good to me. I have a few stealers and drop planks on the AVS, and I think they actually make the planking look better, and I don't give a rip if they are 'correct' or not. They were used historically, they are still used by builders making replica's, and they exist because they were used in the real world. Like anything, they can be over-used, but to argue about it like some of them do it just funny. In big models like those 1/16 scale tanks, some day I really want to build this - http://www.hobbylinc.com/trumpeter-uss-arizona-bb-39-battleship-1941-plastic-model-military-ship-kit-1:200-scale-3701 Of course I would have to get all available detail sets for it too, which quite handily doubles the price.  I stopped by my local hobby store last week when they were having a 'summer doldrums' weekend sale, and they had all Russian models on sale from 30-50% off. In a fit of stupidity I picked up a 1/48 scale IL-2 with ski's kit. I won't even open it until the AVS is complete, as I am now under a bit of a time crunch to finish it so that I can have it done for Modelzona 2015 in November. I don't think I'll have a problem finishing, but there are still a ton of little fiddly details to finish in addition to all the running rigging (I finished the last of the standing rigging last night) and booms/yards.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2015 16:54
|
|
|
The Locator posted:In big models like those 1/16 scale tanks, some day I really want to build this - http://www.hobbylinc.com/trumpeter-uss-arizona-bb-39-battleship-1941-plastic-model-military-ship-kit-1:200-scale-3701 There's PE sets around for the Amati Titanic where if you get all options it adds well over a thousand Euros to your cost. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2015 17:21
|
|
|
Holy moly, Tamiya Acrylics are sooo much better in the airbrush than that Revell poo poo show, it's not even funny. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2015 21:25
|
|
|
Greyhawk posted:Holy moly, Tamiya Acrylics are sooo much better in the airbrush than that Revell poo poo show, it's not even funny. Tamiya acrylics spray beautifully. Especially with their lacquer thinner. I was a 100% vallejo fanboi (model color thru the AB ) until I tried Tamiya paints.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2015 02:04
|
|
|
gently caress this craptank. Finally finished the drat thing. Painting the tracks was an exercise in pure frustration. I'll throw up pictures tomorrow in daylight.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2015 03:04
|
|
|
I painted mine last week... Then stripped it back down because it didn't turn out how I imagined. I really wanted to just be done with it because it is such a lovely model, but if nothing else I need to learn something new from doing this. I'll try painting it again this weekend and if it turns out crappy again oh well.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2015 03:31
|
|
|
Just think, all these craptanks are now the perfect "throwaway" model you guys can use to test out new techniques and paint schemes. Don't know how a new paint will lay down? Throw it on the craptank! Want to see how this new mud formulation you're thinking about looks on the undercarriage? Splatter it on the craptank!
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2015 03:52
|
|
|
Craptank pictures! I went in a different direction to most of you and decided to paint this as a tank I might actually get some wargames use out of at some point, so I present to you: Uncie Joe's Egyptian summer holiday '67!:    That says exactly what you'd think it says (probably). ETA: the green chips are because the Russians shipped the IS3-Ms they sold to Egypt painted, and the Egyptians sort of lazily painted over that and in the field it all flaked off and resulted in a mottled mess. I totally didn't think of that.  TO GOOGLE TRANSLATE!VVVV Arquinsiel fucked around with this message at 21:59 on Aug 28, 2015 |
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2015 16:17
|
|
|
Arquinsiel posted:
"Craptank"?
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2015 17:33
|
|
|
Ensign Expendable posted:"Craptank"? Now I want a later crapkit to be a French "avion merdique". An airplane or a poo poo would be fun, it's easy to keep building similar kits once you find a comfort zone.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2015 17:52
|
|
|
Speaking of crapkits, I had forgotten this exists: http://www.amazon.ca/Academy-1650-F4F-4-Wildcat/dp/B0009O9EPE/ref=sr_1_5?s=toys&ie=UTF8&qid=1440783761&sr=1-5 For the consideration of whoever picks the next one.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2015 19:06
|
|
|
Arquinsiel posted:Craptank pictures! I went in a different direction to most of you and decided to paint this as a tank I might actually get some wargames use out of at some point, so I present to you: Uncie Joe's Egyptian summer holiday '67!: Nice job! I've read that the IS-3s the Egyptians had did see action - something like Israeli commandos attacking them with bazookas and finding them irritatingly resistant. (The Israelis have one in their armor museum.)
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2015 20:25
|
|
|
Edited to fix a link fuckup. There was an extra picture taken. I think maybe we can spin off into a new thread specifically for crap building, and give it a month or two before we try another kit. Doing a kit per month is probably aiming for burnout.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2015 22:06
|
|
|
Jonny Nox posted:Speaking of crapkits, I had forgotten this exists: Academy is good in my experience, why is this one bad?
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2015 00:36
|
|
|
Arquinsiel posted:Edited to fix a link fuckup. There was an extra picture taken. Mmhmm, it's hard enough for me to get one thing finished a quarter at the rate I'm going 
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2015 00:53
|
|
|
Arquinsiel posted:Edited to fix a link fuckup. There was an extra picture taken. A new thread probably isn't worth it. This one isn't exactly moving super fast to begin with.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2015 01:10
|
|
|
Yeah, I don't think a new thread makes sense, especially if we only do this every few months.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2015 02:03
|
|
|
Arquinsiel posted:Craptank pictures! I went in a different direction to most of you and decided to paint this as a tank I might actually get some wargames use out of at some point, so I present to you: Uncie Joe's Egyptian summer holiday '67!: Very nicely done. I do have a question though. Not directed specifically at you, but in general for tanks. Why so much black at the business end of the gun barrel? I realize that if the gun has been fired a lot without cleaning that there will be some accumulation of smoke/soot at the muzzle break, but I see a lot of tank models done with what certainly seems to me to be an excessive amount. Do they really get that black? I honestly have no idea, but I'm curious about it. Sanguine posted:Mmhmm, it's hard enough for me to get one thing finished a quarter at the rate I'm going I'm now over 11 months into my ship. Speed of build isn't high on my list of skills!
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2015 02:33
|
|
|
It doesn't really get that black, especially on the top or bottom which are pretty far from the openings where the gases come out of.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2015 02:48
|
|
|
I believe it doesn't get black at all, at least not from soot (unless they used really really crap ammo). German tank barrels were primed in a heat resistant laquer that was a very dark grey, and that would sometimes show after the upper layer of paint would wear off. But I don't know if the Soviets had the same, maybe Ensign knows? 
Molentik fucked around with this message at 04:54 on Aug 29, 2015 |
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2015 04:42
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 11:26 |
|
|
Ensign Expendable posted:Academy is good in my experience, why is this one bad? from some random review: quote:"There is not much to say about the cockpit because it is almost empty and is clearly the worst of the kit. We only find an incorrect seat and a control lever to be placed in front of it. And of course the pilot if we wish to include it. Thre is nothing else in front, behind or on the sides. Other interior parts are the engine, very simplied but at least you get the two rows of cylinders, and the plexiglass observation panels under the cockpit, which in the kit are obviously clear parts." The landing gear was clearly meant to be modelled in the up position because from the sprues I saw, there was nothing keeping you from seeing the inside of the model through the wheel wells if modelled down. It was the kind of kit where I opened the box, pulled out the instructions, sighed, and put it all in my stash. edit: also, I agree that we need to put a few months between group builds. There is enough other activity here that we don't need to run that poo poo into the ground. I will be throwing crap kit suggestions as I think of them. Speaking of which, every 1/72 Revell WWI Plane is rough, small, poorly detailed inside and out, poorly fitting, full of flash, and fun as gently caress to build. Jonny Nox fucked around with this message at 05:23 on Aug 29, 2015 |
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2015 05:19
|
|