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Shut up. That troll is hella cool and nice.
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Aug 28, 2015 11:17
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Hahaha, I love the blood squirting from his eye!
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Aug 28, 2015 15:40
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I love Bulbasaurs Iron Warriors, but I'm curious how those same techniques look on Ultras. I always expect Iron Warriors to have that look of only maintained enough to remain operational.
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Aug 28, 2015 15:58
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For Frostgrave Reaper Bones seems to have a great variety of minis that would make a warband look hired out of a dirty pub which is what I want but I'm nervous to invest in them because of the claims you don't prime them and thinned paint beads on them. How well do they paint up?
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Aug 28, 2015 23:55
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I've had no problems painting bones. I used Army Painter primer and no issues with tackiness at all. There was a post earlier about 'priming' them with some kind of wash? May want to look through a few pages to find it. Edit: it was in the Reaper thread, http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3540876&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=90#post449330389 Zark the Damned fucked around with this message at 00:11 on Aug 29, 2015 |
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Aug 29, 2015 00:08
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Dr. VooDoo posted:For Frostgrave Reaper Bones seems to have a great variety of minis that would make a warband look hired out of a dirty pub which is what I want but I'm nervous to invest in them because of the claims you don't prime them and thinned paint beads on them. How well do they paint up? Basically, you "prime" them with an unthinned or lightly thinned coat (or you thin with something besides water, like medium). A single unthinned coat of Vallejo or Reaper paint is no thicker than a layer of primer+thinned paint, so won't overly obscure details. Once you have that first coat of paint on, you don't need to worry about beading. It's only the paint applied to bare bones plastic that has the problem.
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Aug 29, 2015 00:49
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oh, I thought you weren't supposed to prime bones figures? That might explain some of the problems I'm having with paint reappearing on high points like the edges of claoks, though it looks like it goes away with a few coats, so maybe it's just a matter of layering.
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Aug 29, 2015 02:39
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Foolster41 posted:oh, I thought you weren't supposed to prime bones figures? That might explain some of the problems I'm having with paint reappearing on high points like the edges of claoks, though it looks like it goes away with a few coats, so maybe it's just a matter of layering. Sorry, I was unclear. I meant a coat of paint. You just take paint straight from the bottle and put it on the mini. It acts as a primer, and the rest of the paint can be thinned as needed. That said, you can prime them, but a lot of spray primers have solvents that react poorly with the Bones plastic. Brush-on pretty much always works, and some rattlecans are okay. Army Painter works well.
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Aug 29, 2015 02:58
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Good to know that Army Painter spray works, cuz I got some Bones to test out color schemes. PS I hate Bones so much
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Aug 29, 2015 04:02
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Reaper has a thread on their forums on what primer does and does not work, but in my experience Krylon works fine on Bones. Rustoleum does not (gets tacky). Brush-on works great. If all else fails, just put a layer of paint over the model first and it'll give enough 'teeth' for future coats to adhere to.
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Aug 29, 2015 04:05
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Does Vallejo primer through an airbrush work on Bones?
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Aug 29, 2015 08:01
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Floppychop posted:Does Vallejo primer through an airbrush work on Bones? Yes.
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Aug 29, 2015 08:21
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Cross posting from the oath thread! Grey Hunter posted:[b]OATH COMPLETE![b]
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Aug 29, 2015 14:04
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I finished a vintage (read: lovely) IS-3 by some Russian factory I never heard of. Turned out okay, I think. More photos here.
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Aug 29, 2015 22:06
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Did some more painting today, two warhammer lizard men I picked up in a bargain bin for $1 a couple of years ago. I was intending on taking a "before" picture, but forgot. They looked to be pretty hastily painted, with only one color (an aqua/cyan color) for skin on one and a secondary skin color on the other, but neither had clothes painted. I repainted the shields and club handle because there was some slopping on them.   Club Lizard. I broke the arm. The top of the club had nice detail, so I kept that.   Axe Lizard. They still need some more touch-up and a wash. Edit: I'd like to do a secondary color on the bumps, but I'm not sure how to do that without the paint getting in the cracks.
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Aug 29, 2015 22:17
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Foolster41 posted:
Thin your paints as normal, then dab off most of the paint onto a washcloth or paper towel so there isn't a lot of excess. You should be able to keep the paint going only where you put your brush.
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Aug 29, 2015 22:49
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Quick question: I have some Dark Age minis (28mm multi-part pewter), and I'd normally pin all the joins, especially the outstretched arms, but most of them are pretty small. Is it sane to just superglue them and reinforce with green stuff, or should I try to pin them? Here are some pictures to give you an idea. The title image has separate pieces for the body, both locks of hair, the left arm, the right forearm+shield, the right hand, the front of the loincloth, and the knifes on the back.
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Aug 30, 2015 02:02
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Cross posting from oath thread as well. Started up Infinity and painted these guys, havent painted anything in 5 years or so. Pretty happy with them.     
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Aug 30, 2015 02:17
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Well, since I didn't get any sort of answer to my last questions, here's a simpler one: is there any appreciable difference between Krylon, Rustoleum, etc. or Army Painter primers? The first two I can get just down the street, I'd probably have to order the army painter stuff online.
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Aug 30, 2015 02:58
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Hauki posted:Well, since I didn't get any sort of answer to my last questions, here's a simpler one: is there any appreciable difference between Krylon, Rustoleum, etc. or Army Painter primers? The first two I can get just down the street, I'd probably have to order the army painter stuff online. I've heard bad things about Rustoleum and Krylon on Reaper Bones, but good things about Army Painter. If you want to paint Bones, the Army Painter might be a better pick. (Granted, I haven't confirmed this myself.)
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Aug 30, 2015 03:25
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Hauki posted:Well, since I didn't get any sort of answer to my last questions, here's a simpler one: is there any appreciable difference between Krylon, Rustoleum, etc. or Army Painter primers? The first two I can get just down the street, I'd probably have to order the army painter stuff online. I find that Krylon is a good all-arounder that doesn't cover up detail, but I've had more cans of that go foul on me than any other brand. Rustoleum can sometimes be a touch...well, not tacky, but slightly sticky? if you don't let it sit for a while. A coat of paint over it solves the problem easily enough, I find. Army Painter matches perfectly with their paint range and their Dragon Red primer is probably the best red rattlecan I've ever used, but it's far more expensive than the other two and doesn't do well as a primer (it's more just aerosol paint than a true primer). Krylon works fine on Reaper Bones, Rustoleum does not, and I don't know about Army Painter but I'd presume it works fine given my above point.
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Aug 30, 2015 03:25
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Mugaaz posted:Cross posting from oath thread as well. Started up Infinity and painted these guys, havent painted anything in 5 years or so. Pretty happy with them. These are sexy as hell!
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Aug 30, 2015 03:32
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Avenging Dentist posted:I've heard bad things about Rustoleum and Krylon on Reaper Bones, but good things about Army Painter. If you want to paint Bones, the Army Painter might be a better pick. (Granted, I haven't confirmed this myself.) Slimnoid posted:I find that Krylon is a good all-arounder that doesn't cover up detail, but I've had more cans of that go foul on me than any other brand. Rustoleum can sometimes be a touch...well, not tacky, but slightly sticky? if you don't let it sit for a while. A coat of paint over it solves the problem easily enough, I find. Army Painter matches perfectly with their paint range and their Dragon Red primer is probably the best red rattlecan I've ever used, but it's far more expensive than the other two and doesn't do well as a primer (it's more just aerosol paint than a true primer). Edit: I guess bones are a plastic too, for whatever reason I thought they were resin. Edit edit: there's also a train hobby shop sort of near here that carries tamiya spray primer for whatever that's worth. Hauki fucked around with this message at 03:56 on Aug 30, 2015 |
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Aug 30, 2015 03:50
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Hauki posted:Edit: I guess bones are a plastic too, for whatever reason I thought they were resin. I think Bones are technically a vinyl-based plastic, which is why primer can be funny on them.
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Aug 30, 2015 04:09
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Yeah, I'm pretty sure any of the primers will work decently well with hard plastics like GW's or Mantic's. It's just the Reaper Bones you have to be careful with, and you don't actually need to prime them.
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Aug 30, 2015 04:24
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This is correct on both counts. Bones don't need priming, hard plastic (usually ABS I think) do, but primers won't be sticky and not dry the way they do on Bones.
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Aug 30, 2015 09:20
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I want a mini of a muscular-looking wizard for Frostgrave (28 mm) where I want to field a Muscle Wizard. Any ideas for which range I can find one?
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Aug 30, 2015 19:09
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Not a viking posted:I want a mini of a muscular-looking wizard for Frostgrave (28 mm) where I want to field a Muscle Wizard. Any ideas for which range I can find one? Convert up a Flagellant. They're (mostly) bare chested, muscle armed and holding stuff that can be easily made quite wizardly
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Aug 30, 2015 19:19
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Any comments on using Vallejo Still Water, particularly for lava effects? Found a guide online but was curious about others' experiences with it, and if they recommend a different water-esque medium.
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Aug 30, 2015 19:28
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Pierzak posted:Also, use a 1-2 size brush with good point [for eyes], 0 and smaller will dry faster and give you less time to work with. Less time = more stress = higher fuckup chance. This is oldish, but I just got some new brushes and I wanted to talk about 'em. I usually prefer 10/0 brushes for really fine detail work like eyeballs or fine freehand lines. I looked at my size 0 brushes and I can't understand how a person could use one of those, let alone a size 2, for eyes. Granted, I did just pick up some Winsor & Newtons to try out (in size 0 and 1) so maybe they'll hold a point so well I can manage to use the size 0 for eyeball-sized things, but I'm not holding my breath.
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Aug 30, 2015 21:47
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Oath thread crosspost: Ramos from Malifaux and the 2015 Con Miniature from Reaper (a.k.a. MOUSE SPACE MARINE  )    Don't gently caress with that guy's cheese. Ramos' base is an actual sprocket that I ...Holy crap, Mugaaz, nice work!
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Aug 30, 2015 22:05
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Probably the wrong place to ask, but does anyone know of an alternative to these that will hold cards inside of sleeves?
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Aug 30, 2015 22:20
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Signal posted:Probably the wrong place to ask, but does anyone know of an alternative to these that will hold cards inside of sleeves? What would you like the alternative to have that the UltraPro ones don't? The War Store has lots (just search for "sleeves").
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Aug 30, 2015 22:24
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Honestly, I want that exact product, just a couple mm larger :P Or something else that has a removable piece instead of the floppy deck boxes
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Aug 30, 2015 22:30
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Signal posted:Honestly, I want that exact product, just a couple mm larger :P Or something else that has a removable piece instead of the floppy deck boxes Oh, I got confused. I thought you wanted sleeves themselves. You could try this? It explicitly says it holds sleeved cards.
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Aug 30, 2015 22:41
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Not a viking posted:I want a mini of a muscular-looking wizard for Frostgrave (28 mm) where I want to field a Muscle Wizard. Any ideas for which range I can find one? If you want a far Eastern monk style muscleman you could go with some Ro-Kan minis from Bushido - http://www.bushido-thegame.com/ e.g. the dude on the left in the starter set (if you can get him separately, though some of the peasents would make great murderhobos in a themed warband):  Also these fuckers would make awesome 'Elemental Hammer' build melee wizards:  
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Aug 30, 2015 22:53
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JackMann posted:lovely conversion time! Desert troll won! Huzzah! I'll be talking to the judge tomorrow about some of the things I could have done better, but mine was still the best of the five entries, and I won eighty bucks in store credit. Not sure what I'll use it on yet, but still pretty cool.
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Aug 31, 2015 01:00
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JackMann posted:Desert troll won! Huzzah! I'll be talking to the judge tomorrow about some of the things I could have done better, but mine was still the best of the five entries, and I won eighty bucks in store credit. Not sure what I'll use it on yet, but still pretty cool. It's a pretty fresh take on the troll scheme. Somewhat troll related, I bought a goofy mini to paint for a friend.  I gave it another green glaze afterwards, and I'm pretty happy with how it turned out, but I need to build a light-box for taking pictures.
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Aug 31, 2015 02:15
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Being from the desert, I like the horned toad conversion  Anyway, after primer-chat earlier I ended up just picking up the Krylon primers to start since I could get them today instead of waiting a week. They were also like 1/3rd of what the army painter cans were priced at, not including shipping. Gonna clean up the figures tomorrow and have them all primed and ready to go when the rest of my paint arrives... sometime next week.
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Aug 31, 2015 02:34
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