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If you have some bits of sprue, now would be a good time to test out the primer, so that you know exactly what to do. Some primers expect you to be different distances from the mini.
Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Aug 31, 2015 |
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Aug 31, 2015 02:46
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Avenging Dentist posted:If you have some bits of spruce, now would be a good time to test out the primer, so that you know exactly what to do. Some primers expect you to be different distances from the mini. Uh, I don't but I'll find something to test on.
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Aug 31, 2015 03:10
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Weirdo posted:It's a pretty fresh take on the troll scheme. That's great, but needs the big weird ear things. (I'm assuming the idea is to look like Shrek, same clothes and color scheme?)
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Aug 31, 2015 03:56
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Sprue. Sprue, he means. The bits of plastic or pewter that the model pieces are attached to. Very useful for testing purposes.
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Aug 31, 2015 03:57
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JackMann posted:Sprue. Sprue, he means. The bits of plastic or pewter that the model pieces are attached to. Very useful for testing purposes. And here I was wondering what's so particular to spruce wood properties wrt priming. 
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Aug 31, 2015 04:01
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JackMann posted:Sprue. Sprue, he means. The bits of plastic or pewter that the model pieces are attached to. Very useful for testing purposes. Yeah, I didn't think he actually meant spruce (I'm more likely to have that lying around heh). I'll have to dig up something with similar composition to test on.
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Aug 31, 2015 04:13
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JackMann posted:Sprue. Sprue, he means. The bits of plastic or pewter that the model pieces are attached to. Very useful for testing purposes. Autocorrect 
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Aug 31, 2015 04:32
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Not a viking posted:I want a mini of a muscular-looking wizard for Frostgrave (28 mm) where I want to field a Muscle Wizard. Any ideas for which range I can find one? There's always https://www.heroforge.com/ for ridiculous customizability in dubious quality materials.
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Aug 31, 2015 06:57
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Photo dump in bound, prepare your butts. Ork Morkanaut, Warhammer 40k Model       
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Aug 31, 2015 07:36
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SynthOrange posted:There's always https://www.heroforge.com/ for ridiculous customizability in dubious quality materials. I like the idea behind HeroForge, but I agree that their execution is really off-putting. What good is "design a mini and we fabricate it for you" when the only materials options are "indestructible but with obvious stepping/melty detail issues" or "super high detail but will break if struck by unusually energetic beam of sunlight?" Bavius: those are some sweet, jewel-like lenses of wonder on that mini (though the idea of an "old" Morkanaut confuses me, didn't that just come out last year?)
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Aug 31, 2015 07:55
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It came out recently, not sure when. I figure orks have been making them for awhile and the imperium just hadn't named these yet.
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Aug 31, 2015 08:33
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Dr. Gargunza posted:I like the idea behind HeroForge, but I agree that their execution is really off-putting. What good is "design a mini and we fabricate it for you" when the only materials options are "indestructible but with obvious stepping/melty detail issues" or "super high detail but will break if struck by unusually energetic beam of sunlight?" Yea the reviews look pretty bad. Looks like they do offer a couple of more durable material options but at $35 for steel and $99 for bronze ahahahaha.  A real shame though.
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Aug 31, 2015 13:15
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Hi, I'd like to introduce all of you to Gun Genie. She's a bit sensitive about her weight (62 tonnes) and is a bit shy around strangers. You don't want to anger her though, she has a mean punch. These are her friends, a detachment of mech inf IG.  You can see the rest of the army in greater detail here here. Please excuse the terrible quality, I only have my phone for a camera. Most of the squads and vehicles are still missing some detailing, mostly because I haven't quite decided on that stuff yet. I've been working on the army, on and off, since the plastic Cadians were released, so there are some differences in technique and quality on the paintjobs. A couple of friends decided to start up small 40k armies recently, which motivated me to try to get these guys done. It's a 1500 pt army missing, a Hellhound I'm trying to finish converting into a proper light tank of some sort.
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Aug 31, 2015 14:32
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Bavius posted:Photo dump in bound, prepare your butts. Decorus posted:Hi, I'd like to introduce all of you to Gun Genie. She's a bit sensitive about her weight (62 tonnes) and is a bit shy around strangers. You don't want to anger her though, she has a mean punch.  This is a really cool IG army; I like the shaved down helmets and different tank constructions you've got. What inspired you to make Gun Genie and that tank hunter-looking tank in the back there?
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Aug 31, 2015 15:04
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I'm starting to use my Badger 360 airbrush more and just checked the Sotar out on Amazon out of curiosity on price. Cheaper than I was expecting, so what I am wondering is just how much difference am I going to notice from the 360, particularly for detail? I have the 0.2mm extra fine needle for my 360 and the lines and dots still seem a bit larger than I would have expected. Not sure if its just because that's as fine as the 360 goes and I should look at a 2nd detail only brush or I just have something set wrong.
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Aug 31, 2015 15:10
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SRM posted:She's so stubby! Thanks! I love the aesthetic of IG tanks, but the proportions generally just look terrible. I'm pretty sure the gunner of a standard Leman Russ would get his face crushed every time the gun was fired. Gun Genie was originally going to be a Conqueror-pattern, and I cut up the tracks to make her look a bit more agile in comparison to the standard Russ. The turret is a mishmash of german and british WWII tanks. I'm still thinking about some way to make a simple suspension system for the tracks, but getting her painted was more important. The tank hunter in the back is based on the StuG III, because the StuG is the coolest armored vehicle ever. Also, I wanted a SPG of some sort and open-topped tanks aren't boxy enough for my taste. The album has a few close-ups. The gun barrel is actually made from the handle of my first hobby knife, I occasionally think about making a plug-type bayonet for it.  I really need to do some weathering on all the vehicles, the camo pattern is a bit too flawless at the moment.
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Aug 31, 2015 15:33
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SRM posted:My butt was not sufficiently prepared for how awesome that model looks! I love the varied camo schemes, the killer weathering, and those lenses. Thanks SRM. Decorus, I don't often see converted IG, yours look great!
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Aug 31, 2015 16:17
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Speaking of tanks, just finished a Predator for my Dark Angels!] This thing is made of a combination of new and rescue parts - the lascannons and turret are from beat up old kits I've had for years, while the body is new. Fun fact - I can build a Rhino hull without instructions in about 20 minutes! I could probably do it blindfolded at this point. The company transfer got a little messed up by the Micro-Sol and matte varnish, but It's not too bad. I used Baal Predator sponsons and Land Raider lascannons since the stock ones snap off too easily.     
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Aug 31, 2015 16:50
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SRM posted:Speaking of tanks, just finished a Predator for my Dark Angels!] This thing is made of a combination of new and rescue parts - the lascannons and turret are from beat up old kits I've had for years, while the body is new. Fun fact - I can build a Rhino hull without instructions in about 20 minutes! I could probably do it blindfolded at this point. The company transfer got a little messed up by the Micro-Sol and matte varnish, but It's not too bad. I used Baal Predator sponsons and Land Raider lascannons since the stock ones snap off too easily. That's a pretty Predator. I like the chunkier sponson guns, the shape is more like the old metal kit.
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Aug 31, 2015 17:12
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Decorus posted:That's a pretty Predator. I like the chunkier sponson guns, the shape is more like the old metal kit. Thanks! I've actually built them with Leman Russ sponsons before to look more like the old ones and be more durable. The stock ones are so drat weedy.
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Aug 31, 2015 17:15
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SynthOrange posted:Yea the reviews look pretty bad. Looks like they do offer a couple of more durable material options but at $35 for steel and $99 for bronze ahahahaha. Macho Wizard Randy Savage e: You should see if they can make this guy out of WWE championship belt material e2: or Slim Jim Dr. Gargunza fucked around with this message at 17:50 on Aug 31, 2015 |
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Aug 31, 2015 17:23
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Hi guys, I'm painting an Eldar Kill Team to play with a local group and I wanted to make them hot pink to kind of spite my friend who paints his Space Marines very grim dark/realistic. I tried a thinned out Citadel Screamer Pink for the base and then tried to layer on thinned Pink Horror, but it's turning out more purple/crimson than hot pink. Does anyone know a good paint or a mix of paints that will give me a fuchsia or hot pink look that pops? I don't hate the color on these guys, but it's not really what I'm going for.
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Aug 31, 2015 17:53
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GaryLeeLoveBuckets posted:Hi guys, I'm painting an Eldar Kill Team to play with a local group and I wanted to make them hot pink to kind of spite my friend who paints his Space Marines very grim dark/realistic. I tried a thinned out Citadel Screamer Pink for the base and then tried to layer on thinned Pink Horror, but it's turning out more purple/crimson than hot pink. Vallejo Model Color 70735, Magenta Fluo. It's a delightful, eye-searing pink. You'll need to thin the living daylights out of it, but it's an excellent mid-tone for what I think you're going after. You can highlight it with a light pink paint; Warlock Purple (or a similar reddish violet) would do well as a shade color. Here's an Amazon link!
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Aug 31, 2015 18:28
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SynthOrange posted:Yea the reviews look pretty bad. Looks like they do offer a couple of more durable material options but at $35 for steel and $99 for bronze ahahahaha. Muscle Wizard w/dickstaff and flask of Jagermeister
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Aug 31, 2015 19:01
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Dr. Gargunza posted:Vallejo Model Color 70735, Magenta Fluo. It's a delightful, eye-searing pink. You'll need to thin the living daylights out of it, but it's an excellent mid-tone for what I think you're going after. You can highlight it with a light pink paint; Warlock Purple (or a similar reddish violet) would do well as a shade color. Here's an Amazon link! Thanks for the help, I went ahead and ordered it and some Vallejo white since the pot of Ceramite White I bought was clumpy and gooey and I can't get it to thin. Looks like just what I'm going for, thanks again!
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Aug 31, 2015 20:06
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nesbit37 posted:I'm starting to use my Badger 360 airbrush more and just checked the Sotar out on Amazon out of curiosity on price. Cheaper than I was expecting, so what I am wondering is just how much difference am I going to notice from the 360, particularly for detail? I have the 0.2mm extra fine needle for my 360 and the lines and dots still seem a bit larger than I would have expected. Not sure if its just because that's as fine as the 360 goes and I should look at a 2nd detail only brush or I just have something set wrong. You'll probably notice a big difference if you've been airbrushing for a while. If you're used to using the fine detail needle/nozzle set (you are using them as a set, right? they're matched together and that's how they're meant to be used) you should be experienced enough to know how to thin and clean the 360 properly enough to use the Sotar. The Sotar (and Renegade Krome) will have a much finer spray - excuse the lame comparison, but think 'high definition' compared to the 360 or Patriot because it's just machined smoother and to a higher grade than the general purpose models. If it doesn't spray as smoothly, it's clogged up or something else is wrong (probably a clog).
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Aug 31, 2015 20:32
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GaryLeeLoveBuckets posted:Thanks for the help, I went ahead and ordered it and some Vallejo white since the pot of Ceramite White I bought was clumpy and gooey and I can't get it to thin. Looks like just what I'm going for, thanks again! Man I got a pot of Ceramite White and it's all clumpy and gooey too. I've got like three or four other pots of GW paint that don't seem to have that problem, and the rest of my paints are Privateer Press paints, but my Ceramite White really sucks. Maybe it's just something about the Ceramite White that makes it extra prone to clumping up and drying out or whatever in the pot, I dunno
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Aug 31, 2015 20:35
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Ok great, sounds good. Yes, using the whole set with the high detail needle. Will keep fiddling with the 360 for now but ~$80 for the Sotar seems like I might just pick one up as a second air brush soon regardless. I plan on doing some higher detail work for the oath thread in September using the 360 and we'll just see how frustrating that does or does not turn out to be.
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Aug 31, 2015 20:36
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I had high hopes for Ceramite White when it was released, and it was great to begin with but my pot went to poo poo in no time either
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Aug 31, 2015 20:40
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The 360 and Patriot series are great to learn with, just keep in mind that most regular airbrushers use a detail brush like the Sotar or other brushes as their normal equipment. The Patriot is generally for varnishing and base coating large areas (which for 28mm scale models is big pieces of terrain (like a Realms of Battle board or Bastion and big vehicles) - the Sotar & Renegade Krome are really the things to use for all other purposes, if you can get a 2nd airbrush.Also keep in mind you'll want to make sure you're even more fastidious with your cleaning, as a single bit of dried paint or fabric thread can shut down a fine detail brush - but hopefully you've learned about cleaning, etc., while using the 360.
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Aug 31, 2015 20:43
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For those of you guys who airbrush at home, what's your setup look like? I'm hoping a basic box and newspapers is fine for purely airbrushing water based paints and that I don't need an extractor. I did buy a respirator with OG/AV P100 which might be overkill but whatever it's cheap. Ideally I want something small I can place on my small table in my apartment.
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Aug 31, 2015 20:50
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HJE-Cobra posted:Man I got a pot of Ceramite White and it's all clumpy and gooey too. I've got like three or four other pots of GW paint that don't seem to have that problem, and the rest of my paints are Privateer Press paints, but my Ceramite White really sucks. Yeah I went to shake it before opening it and it was completely inert. Like a big gooey white blob of clay that hasn't dried yet. I opened the top and tried to stir it and add some water to soften it up, but it's still clumpy and awful to paint with.
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Aug 31, 2015 21:06
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More in adventures of first-time painting: Couldn't find anything like a sprue to practice on before priming; test primed some cardboard; not the same at all. I though I was comfortable with distance & coverage and then totally oversprayed like the first four dudes I did. They're not like, melting bad, just slight pooling in the some of the high detail areas, but I'm debating stripping them and repriming. On the other hand, I could use models to practice actual painting on, so maybe I'll just gently caress those up with a brush too before I strip & start over on them. On the plus side, after the first group I got a little more technique & a decent work flow going, all the subsequent groups look much more even with no obscuring of detail. By the third group of dudes (royal guard) I went ahead and tried zenithal as decribed in the op and they look way better already, it really adds a lot of depth to their cloaks & helmets. Would like the rest of my paints to get here though, so I can move forward. edit: royal guard are these, although these aren't mine pictured. I straightened the staves etc. first  
Hauki fucked around with this message at 21:16 on Aug 31, 2015 |
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Aug 31, 2015 21:14
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Chill la Chill posted:For those of you guys who airbrush at home, what's your setup look like? I'm hoping a basic box and newspapers is fine for purely airbrushing water based paints and that I don't need an extractor. I did buy a respirator with OG/AV P100 which might be overkill but whatever it's cheap. Ideally I want something small I can place on my small table in my apartment. I have a furnace filter that is sandwiched between a big cardboard box that has had the back cut out and a box fan that draws air through the filter. I use that set up in combination with a respirator. Kind of like this, but less fancy. http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/tools_techniques_and_reference_materials/f/18/t/161168.aspx The benefit of the filter is that all the paint that doesn't go on your model goes into the filter via the fan, and not all over your room coating everything with a fine dust of dry pigment.
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Aug 31, 2015 21:32
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GaryLeeLoveBuckets posted:Yeah I went to shake it before opening it and it was completely inert. Like a big gooey white blob of clay that hasn't dried yet. I opened the top and tried to stir it and add some water to soften it up, but it's still clumpy and awful to paint with. Glad its not just mine 
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Aug 31, 2015 21:42
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I lost a pot of Ceramite white. I now have some medium I drop in every now and then. They need feeding like a paint pot tamagotchi. Although the shaking probably counts as abuse.
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Aug 31, 2015 21:47
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Avenging Dentist posted:Oh, I got confused. I thought you wanted sleeves themselves. You could try this? It explicitly says it holds sleeved cards. This looks great, thanks!
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Aug 31, 2015 21:49
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Ceramite white sucks balls. I've lost two or possibly 3 pots of it in the last 6 months. I really want to look at investing in a full set of non-GW paints.
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Aug 31, 2015 21:50
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Did yet more painting today. Instead of waiting to go to the store and buy highlight tones, I figured I'd try and make my own since I have black and white paints.  Elf ranger with highlights (though I'm pretty sure I'm going to redo it, since it looks a bit sloppy.) I couldn't decide whether to do light or dark on top, so I tried both. I did light with the axe-man  It's kind of hard to see in the picture.  I was much happier with this. I glued his arm back on (so now it can't be posed, but oh well).  Here's the two of them together, which is better at showing the lighter one. I'm probably going to redo the light one to match the other one. I also fixed up the onion knight's shield and cape with white over some spots, but I forgot to do the green tufts. Next time. It seems there are always little mistakes I keep finding anyway.
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Aug 31, 2015 21:50
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Chill la Chill posted:For those of you guys who airbrush at home, what's your setup look like? I'm hoping a basic box and newspapers is fine for purely airbrushing water based paints and that I don't need an extractor. I did buy a respirator with OG/AV P100 which might be overkill but whatever it's cheap. Ideally I want something small I can place on my small table in my apartment. I airbrush near a window I leave open and use a house fan to blow air from my back towards said window. I hang a towel so it covers my desk and the wall behind and use disposable paper towels ontop of the towel to absorb the paint. Haven't had any issues at all, but I do wear a good respirator and make sure my room ventilates well if I'm spraying oils or varnish.
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Aug 31, 2015 21:58
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