|
Alrighty, put a new tie tod (inner and outer) on my 2002 VW Golf and now that side is clunking when I hit the brakes, but only when moving forward! Whaaat? Everything's as tight as I can get it, I'm gonna take it in to get an honest-to-goodness alignment done, but what could this be?
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2015 04:44
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 14, 2024 03:13 |
|
|
seaborgium posted:I just moved to California, and I'm going to need to register my truck in the near future. It's a 92 Ford Ranger, I'm just looking for what I'm in for. There's no real problems with the truck, but is there anything I should do before hand to help it out? Additives? Get the oil changed even if I don't need it just yet? Sacrifice a chicken to the gods of the small trucks? I've read through the DMV page, but short of going in and doing it I won't know if there's anything I should have done beforehand that would help. An oil change wouldn't hurt if it's been awhile; California is rather strict on emissions (as I'm sure you know), and fresh oil will help if it's burning any oil (every car burns some oil, but the older/higher mileage they get, the more they burn). If you haven't done spark plugs in awhile, I'd suggest those as well, along with a new distributor cap and rotor. Just make sure it's running well before smogging it, and it's best to take it in for smog after you've driven it for awhile (so the engine is good and warm). If it fails, post the results, and we can go from there. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:07 on Aug 31, 2015 |
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2015 05:02
|
|
|
memento mori posted:Hey guys, my 2003 mustang is acting funny and I'd like all the info I could get before I take it into a shop. It first started a couple a couple months ago. About half the times when I would try to start it the ignition would turn but the car would immediately die. Like the starter was working but the engine wasn't getting any gas. I would have to try 3 or 4 times to get it to start. I'm a poor so I didn't want to take it in to be fixed. Could be gummed up throttle body: https://youtu.be/dR4M-UI-wKk There's probably better instructionals out there.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2015 05:08
|
|
|
Raluek posted:The tool thread might be a better place for this discussion, but I really like my Arcan (Costco) 3.5 ton jack. It's low enough to pick up my lowered car (well, it's not super low, but it's a couple inches lower than stock) and my old pickup. I believe HF "makes" (probably comes from the same factory) one that looks the same; you'd probably be happy with one of those. How tall is the truck? this HF jack looks like the one, and it goes up to 19.75". On sale at the moment, too. I'll second and third the Arcan love. My dad has the original Arcan all-steel jack, I've got the newer hybrid steel/aluminum one. Both work great. The only issue I've had with my Arcan is that it maxes out baaaaarely high enough to get the wheels off the ground on the WJ, so I might need to get a bottle jack just for that.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2015 05:51
|
|
|
CharlieWhiskey posted:Could be gummed up throttle body: https://youtu.be/dR4M-UI-wKk Cool beans, I'm 100% certain if I take it anywhere I'll end up needing to get parts replaced. I'll try this tomorrow. Thanks
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2015 05:58
|
|
|
seaborgium posted:I just moved to California, and I'm going to need to register my truck in the near future. It's a 92 Ford Ranger, I'm just looking for what I'm in for. There's no real problems with the truck, but is there anything I should do before hand to help it out? Additives? Get the oil changed even if I don't need it just yet? Sacrifice a chicken to the gods of the small trucks? I've read through the DMV page, but short of going in and doing it I won't know if there's anything I should have done beforehand that would help. Yeah, just make sure the oil's been changed recently, make sure it's running as well as it normally does, and then take it in to a test-only shop. Don't bother to go in to the DMV until you have a clean test because they'll just make you come back and start over if you don't.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2015 06:58
|
|
|
seaborgium posted:I just moved to California, and I'm going to need to register my truck in the near future. It's a 92 Ford Ranger, I'm just looking for what I'm in for. There's no real problems with the truck, but is there anything I should do before hand to help it out? Additives? Get the oil changed even if I don't need it just yet? Sacrifice a chicken to the gods of the small trucks? I've read through the DMV page, but short of going in and doing it I won't know if there's anything I should have done beforehand that would help. Buy a can of Seafoam and put half in your gastank and half through the brake booster line, then drive it hard for the remainder of the tank. Do the usual tuneup - oil change, spark plugs/wires/air filter. I dunno poo poo about Rangers but if your O2 sensor is original and cheap to replace that's a good idea. If you're running anything other than stock under the hood i.e. air intake/bypassed vac lines etc you'll want to change it back to stock to pass the visual inspection. CA smog varies a bit depending on if you're in a major city (i.e. high pollutant area) or not. Assuming you have to do the dyno + sniffer test, find a chill local shop who will run it through in test mode first to see if you have any major problems. Make sure your cat is good and hot for the check. All the techs know our emissions system is fully stupid, and in my experience they are happy to ignore small stuff like non-oem injectors/etc as long as the numbers add up right on the final scan. All the non-test scans are fully computerized so the moment you pass or fail the results are uploaded to the Great Machine and you're on the record.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2015 08:32
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:The GTIR is vastly, vastly superior in every way IMO. I've seen a shitload of rusty 323's of that generation, I don't see why the GTR would be special in that regard. Have you noticed that, despite that model being generally reliable and good, you hardly see any of them around anymore, compared to 90's Toyotas and such? It's because they're all at pickapart with holes in the sills. Finding a straight and original one of either is going to be ridiculously hard so there's that too. I was just tempted by the 53/47 drive bias 
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2015 08:44
|
|
|
memento mori posted:Cool beans, I'm 100% certain if I take it anywhere I'll end up needing to get parts replaced. I'll try this tomorrow. Thanks Get a new gasket if you touch yours.. I had a friend who loved cleaning his tb but never replaces the gasket..one day his car was driving like poo poo and was in limp mode.. he had a1/4 inch gap in the gasket letting in all kinds of unmetered air.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2015 16:56
|
|
|
Insurance update time! Got a call, they started the car and noted it started fine and were reading off what they were going to do to fix the car and my heart started to sink realizing I was likely going to be stuck with the car. Thanks to CharlieWhiskey I cut her off while talking about the repairs on electronics/interior and mentioned that there was floating garbage and our garbage collection for our building is in the same room. It was most definitely going to have sewage in the water as we have pets in our building and for example I throw my cats waste in there so v vShe's now getting manage approval to total the car out Edit: Got a call back, it's a total loss. Now the joy of finding a new car when there's nothing in town that fits what I want 
flyboi fucked around with this message at 18:48 on Aug 31, 2015 |
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2015 18:00
|
|
|
flyboi posted:Insurance update time! Got a call, they started the car and noted it started fine and were reading off what they were going to do to fix the car and my heart started to sink realizing I was likely going to be stuck with the car. Thanks to CharlieWhiskey I cut her off while talking about the repairs on electronics/interior and mentioned that there was floating garbage and our garbage collection for our building is in the same room. It was most definitely going to have sewage in the water as we have pets in our building and for example I throw my cats waste in there so v Told you to listen to CharlieWhiskey!
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2015 20:00
|
|
|
Are universal O2 sensors worth a gently caress? $13 for a crimp-on 1-wire sensor seems a lot better than $36 for the OE-type but if they don't work right, I guess I could shell out.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2015 20:52
|
|
|
Yay I spotted garbage at the right time 
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2015 21:04
|
|
|
CharlieWhiskey posted:Yay I spotted garbage at the right time I reckon he owes you a beer. Or at least a crown with the slogan 'champion poo poo-spotter'
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2015 23:19
|
|
|
Pham Nuwen posted:Are universal O2 sensors worth a gently caress? $13 for a crimp-on 1-wire sensor seems a lot better than $36 for the OE-type but if they don't work right, I guess I could shell out. Only if your car is red.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2015 23:58
|
|
|
totalnewbie posted:Only if your car is red. gently caress, it's tan. Here I was thinking generic O2 sensors might generally be known to suck, but maybe they only suck if I put one into my 1986 Mazda B2000 and not into a red 1990 Toyota Corolla.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 00:50
|
|
|
Pham Nuwen posted:gently caress, it's tan. For what it's worth, I've put two into my SC400 and neither worked. Those were 4-wire sensors though.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 00:54
|
|
|
Entirely anecdotal evidence: I've never seen a generic sensor work properly.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 01:22
|
|
|
O2 sensors are extremely sensitive to bad crimps and wrong materials. You can't solder the connector on or use the wrong metal in the connector or you'll throw off the voltage reading.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 01:57
|
|
|
My 2015 Mazda 3 has decided that the gas gauge doesn't need to work any more. After putting about 150 miles on the car today, the gauge still reads full, and the "range remaining" display only varies with the fuel economy (but never decreases other than that) so something inside the tank seems to be stuck on a "full" signal going to the gauge. The only possible connection I can think of is that I filled the car in Oregon (where self serve is illegal) this morning, and there was a faint gas smell in the car when I left the station (that dissipated after a few minutes driving), so I'm wondering if the guy at the station didn't "top off" the tank to the point where a float or something got jammed. I'm going to let the car sit with a partial tank overnight and refuel it (myself) tomorrow to see if that doesnt convince it to start working (and I had a service appointment scheduled later in the week anyway), but I'd appreciate any advice as to what the heck is going on here.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 02:36
|
|
|
My own (extremely) stupid question. Friend has a 98 or 99 Honda Accord (2.3L VTEC, automatic, 223k) that's on its last legs, but they need it to keep going for a bit longer. Last time they got an oil change, the filter was doubled gasketed, and the engine ran dry a couple of times. It never died, but it was knocking decently. Now that it has oil back in it, it's a little more rattly than it used to be, but isn't knocking anymore. But since then, it's been throwing a CEL for a malfunction in the VTEC system (and since they lost the receipt, the quick lube place refuses to even acknowledge they ever touched the car). Specifically, P1259. It's also throwing P0420, but that's a lot easier to deal with. I know the VTEC system requires decent oil pressure to work - is it likely the code got tripped by not having enough oil pressure when the solenoid tried to activate when it was low? Low oil pressure is listed as a possible cause of that code. I cleared the codes to see if the VTEC code comes back now that it's not pissing oil, so next time I see them (Thursday) I'll check codes again. I'm sure P0420 will be back. It's going to need to be smogged soon, so I'm trying to help them get it into passing condition (in TX, CEL lit up for any reason is an instant fail if it's an OBD2 car, even if it's for something in the transmission or a bad float in the fuel tank). azflyboy posted:My 2015 Mazda 3 has decided that the gas gauge doesn't need to work any more. Stuck float. The only way the fuel jockey could have caused it is if he kept topping it off (which, btw, you should never do - just let it fill until the pump shuts off on its own). The fact that you could smell gas after leaving the station tells me that he probably did overfill it, and some of it probably made it into the charcoal canister (which is often by the tank). So uh... good luck on that, Mazda may deny warranty coverage on it due to overfilling. Pham Nuwen posted:Are universal O2 sensors worth a gently caress? $13 for a crimp-on 1-wire sensor seems a lot better than $36 for the OE-type but if they don't work right, I guess I could shell out. No. ALWAYS get the one with the plug. To be cheap, look up the part number for a NTK sensor on their web site (or Rockauto's), then go to Amazon and type in NTK <part #>. It'll likely be available with Prime shipping, and be cheaper than the parts store. NTK sensors are great, and NTK, AFAIK, is owned by NGK. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 04:24 on Sep 1, 2015 |
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 04:15
|
|
|
some texas redneck posted:No. ALWAYS get the one with the plug. To be cheap, look up the part number for a NTK sensor on their web site (or Rockauto's), then go to Amazon and type in NTK <part #>. It'll likely be available with Prime shipping, and be cheaper than the parts store. It's $36 which kinda sucks but it's the cheapest O2 sensor with a plug that I've seen for my truck. Since people seem to have pretty universally bad opinions of universal sensors, though, it's probably worth it to avoid wasting my time.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 04:42
|
|
|
some texas redneck posted:
Is there a chance the float could unstick itself (apparently several hours of driving and some questionable roads wasn't enough), or is this something that's going to require dropping the tank to solve? Also, would Mazda have any way of determining if the car was overfilled to deny a warranty claim? Since the gas smell went away after a few minutes and everything else seems fine, I'm assuming that any fuel that got into the charcoal canister managed to evaporate, since I'd think raw fuel in the canister would trigger a CEL from the purge system.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 05:02
|
|
|
Pham Nuwen posted:It's $36 which kinda sucks but it's the cheapest O2 sensor with a plug that I've seen for my truck. Since people seem to have pretty universally bad opinions of universal sensors, though, it's probably worth it to avoid wasting my time. I'd be jumping for joy for a $36 O2 sensor, I'm more used to shelling out $200+ after tax/shipping/exchange/bullshit And n-thing that I've never seen or heard of a universal one work properly. It's cheap enough that with proper technique it might work, but if you don't want to experiment just go oem.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 06:14
|
|
|
azflyboy posted:Is there a chance the float could unstick itself (apparently several hours of driving and some questionable roads wasn't enough), or is this something that's going to require dropping the tank to solve? If the charcoal canister is close enough to the tank (as in next to it), yes, if they care to look close enough. They'd find liquid residue inside the canister lines, and probably liquid inside the canister itself. There's a chance it'll unstick eventually, but it's a 2015, it's under warranty, just take it to the dealer and let them deal with it. If they say they're going to deny the warranty, get it in writing, along with an estimate to repair it, a receipt for whatever diagnostic fees they charged, and contact the gas station that dry humped an extra gallon into your tank (hopefully you kept the receipt, or paid with a credit/debit card; that way you can prove you got fuel from them). And since it's stuck once, there's a good chance it'll stick again in the future. Just tell the dealer you had it filled it up and the gauge hasn't worked since. And yes, the tank will need to be dropped, unless Mazda was nice enough to leave an access panel in the trunk or under the back seat (many car makers do this). Try to drop it off with as little fuel as possible (without running out, obviously) when you take it to the dealer; if they have to drop the tank, it'll make their job much easier. If you have a good idea of what kind of mileage you usually get, drive it until you think you have about 50-100 miles left. There's always the chance it wasn't overfilled, you may have just wound up with a fuel level sender that crapped out early. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:25 on Sep 1, 2015 |
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 06:22
|
|
|
some texas redneck posted:There's always the chance it wasn't overfilled, you may have just wound up with a fuel level sender that crapped out early. Yeah given the age of the car I'd definitely think premature failure of a part. Bathtub curve and all that.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 06:25
|
|
|
One last stupid insurance question that I can't find the answer to on the internet. The claims adjuster told me that I need to contact my dealership to release my car so that they can take it away from the lot and do whatever they do with totaled cars. They want it done tomorrow but do I do that or do I wait until they pay the car out?
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 08:15
|
|
|
Legally, the car still belongs to both you and whoever financed it (bank, BMW, etc). It sounds like you and/or insurance had it towed to the dealer, and most dealers will want a release signed before they release it to a third party. I've only had one total, but the car had been parked at a body shop for about a week before they decided it was a total. I had to sign/scan/email a release to the insurance company, who sent it to the body shop. Then I had to mail the keys and title to the insurance company, and about 2 weeks later, a check showed up. There was no lien on the car though, so I have no idea how it works with something with a loan. I'd call the dealer and ask for a manager in the service department, and tell them what your insurance is requesting of you, and ask them what both yourself and the dealer need to do to make it happen. Probably get the lienholder involved as well; same questions, just ask what you need to do to make it happen.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 08:23
|
|
|
My 2003 Opel/Vauxhall Corsa wouldn't start this morning (turned over but wouldn't catch), and the fuel gauge read empty despite it having a half tank of fuel. Called the RAC, the guy arrived and immediately recognised the problem. He pushed on the instrument panel, the fuel gauge read correctly and the car started first turn. He said that it's a known issue with the car that the electrical connector on the back of the instrument panel comes loose tripping the immobilizer. Someone at the end of this thread suggested there's a modified connector block intended to address this problem. I called the local Vauxhall dealer, they say they've never heard of the part. Common suggestions on forums revolve around reseating or otherwise securing the connection, but there's a pretty common theme of 'It worked for a while then lost power at roundabout'. It's with the garage round the corner at the moment, they're not filling me with confidence that they're going to fix it, or even understand my explanation of the problem. I'm nervous about driving the car without a solid fix. Any suggestions? Edit: Been round to the garage and spoke to one of the mechanics in person, they understand what the issue is now, but haven't looked at the car yet. Pierre Chaton fucked around with this message at 11:28 on Sep 1, 2015 |
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 10:26
|
|
|
flyboi posted:One last stupid insurance question that I can't find the answer to on the internet. The claims adjuster told me that I need to contact my dealership to release my car so that they can take it away from the lot and do whatever they do with totaled cars. They want it done tomorrow but do I do that or do I wait until they pay the car out? My wife totaled out our truck in June. I had to stop by the insurance agents office, sign a release and call the body shop where the truck was. My wife wound up going to the body shop and they helped her collect personal belongings, remove the plate, unwire the trailer brake controller and iPod adapter. Two days later I stopped in and picked up the check. I also had a lien on it, but the insurance company handled all of that. I signed a power of attorney form for the insurance so they could do so. rdb fucked around with this message at 13:21 on Sep 1, 2015 |
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 13:15
|
|
|
some texas redneck posted:NTK sensors are great, and NTK, AFAIK, is owned by NGK. It is. But FYI, that there is also another company, called NGK Insulators, that also makes sensors (like NOx sensors). They are a different company from the NGK Spark Plugs that makes spark plugs and NTK sensors. From what I hear, though, NGK sensors aren't too shabby.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 13:50
|
|
|
Hi AI goons, My 2010 Acura TSX 4-cyl 5-spd auto has recently begun surging from first to second gear. This has been happening intermittently for a couple months, but only this morning did it happen consistently. This happens when: 1) I'm accelerating from a complete stop (stop light or stop sign, never gunning it) 2) I'm accelerating from a near-complete stop 3) I'm accelerating after completing a left or right turn Basically this happens after I've slowed down enough to be back in first, and upon acceleration, it surges forth into second gear (up to about 3k RPM) then thuds loudly. From 2-3, 3-4, and 4-5, I have no issues--it's just from 1-2. I'm a total idiot when it comes to doing much more than changing oil, changing a tire and checking my fluids, etc, so what I don't know is whether or not this could be caused by low ATF. I had my oil changed recently and made certain the guy checked the ATF level as well. But I'm thinking it's not the transmission fluid since the other gears have been working fine and switching smoothly. There was also a recent warranty extension on this model and year pertaining to the piston rings causing excessive oil consumption, so I'm not sure if that's related--my car did not have a warranty when I bought it used since it wasn't certified, but there were no problems with the car at the time other than pulsating brakes, which I had the dealership fix. I don't even know if I can get the dealership to fix this since it's not technically a recall, and it's not under warranty, so I'm not sure if a warranty extension would even apply in my case. I really hope this isn't contributing to the surging, because if it is, I'm about to be out a decent amount of money. Any ideas? e: I AM low on gas this morning, but have about 60 miles left before empty, and this has never happened before when I've been low on fuel. Also, I don't feel like it would be thudding like it is. life is killing me fucked around with this message at 15:09 on Sep 1, 2015 |
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 15:07
|
|
|
EightBit posted:O2 sensors are extremely sensitive to bad crimps and wrong materials. You can't solder the connector on or use the wrong metal in the connector or you'll throw off the voltage reading. If someone did want to crimp their own O2 sensor wires, use this: http://standards.sae.org/uscar21-3/ Good luck! 
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 15:27
|
|
|
Neitherman posted:I've got another question about my 2007 Nissan Altima with the CVT. I have a friend with the same issue, pulling over and restarting the car seems to fix it. I thought it was probably heat related, but I don't think she had to wait that long for it to cool down. I'm also forgetting now if it only happens in the summer, or if it's ever happened in the winter. She has a Murano with a CVT, but I'm guessing it's the same tranny issue. She's tried bringing the car to the dealer multiple times, but they can't recreate the issue so they won't fix it. I guarantee if you went there out of warranty, they'd be happy put a new transmission in there for a huge amount of money. I looked into the issue and never found a good resolution, but good luck. It only occurs for her when she drives from Arizona to LA, I'm not sure if she's taking the same route as you, but it's definitely up a long incline. Also, I don't think it's slipping, I think it's going into limp mode, which is cleared by restarting the car. I wonder if an aftermarket tranny cooler would help? I don't know how having a CVT complicates adding an aftermarket cooler though.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 18:24
|
|
|
Maybe you guys get this one all the time but I have a 2013 Toyota Camry L, which has power locks but not keyless entry. I would like to add keyless entry to it. From my reading, there is no solenoid at the trunk release in the L model to have the trunk popped by remote. I can live with this, not a big deal. What is the best keyless entry system to put in this vehicle and/or what do AI goons recommend? I would just like to remotely lock and unlock the doors. Thanks. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 19:49
|
|
|
2012 accord ex-l What is this gasket thing called? And is it vehicle specific? It's melting in the sun, only on the driver's side (normally faces east all day in the mid-south), and it turns into this nasty sticky tar poo poo that gets everywhere. I'm assuming water is now getting in too. Is this an easy DIY fix or should I take it to the dealership an hour+ away? 
PuTTY riot fucked around with this message at 22:17 on Sep 1, 2015 |
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 22:13
|
|
|
I need to replace the shocks on my 2000 Lexus LS400. I can get Bilstein shocks for $115/each, a Monroe shock+coil assembly for $129/each, or a pair of BuyAutoParts shock+coil assemblies for $155 total. The Montroe assemblies have a number of bad reviews talking about sounds the shocks or shock perches make, and I can't find much info on the BuyAutoParts ones. I'd rather not have a part that's going to have issues, and the difference in cost isn't that much, but I do like the idea of just having a complete assembly ready to go. What should I get? I'm leaning towards the Bilsteins because I know they'll be good, but they're also more of a pain in the rear end.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 22:20
|
|
|
PuTTY riot posted:2012 accord ex-l If it helps, my TSX is doing this too and no water is getting in
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 22:28
|
|
|
I've got a 1999 Escalade that's giving me electrical grief, something is drawing my battery dead. Short drives aren't recharging it to full, but longer trips will. If I go for a few <5 miles trips during a month eventually it will die out, but if I do a 15 mileish drive here and there I have no issues. Basically I have no idea how to use my voltmeter, or where to put it to figure this out.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 22:51
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 14, 2024 03:13 |
|
|
Nitramster posted:I've got a 1999 Escalade that's giving me electrical grief, something is drawing my battery dead. Short drives aren't recharging it to full, but longer trips will. If I go for a few <5 miles trips during a month eventually it will die out, but if I do a 15 mileish drive here and there I have no issues. Parasitic draw? If this is what you suspect is happening, you'll have to check for unexpected current being pulled from the battery. This involves putting your multimeter in series with the battery and pulling fuses until you see the current drop. Because the multimeter is now part of the 12V power circuit, don't start your car (or anything else that uses a lot of power, like using the HVAC blower or opening a door without the switch disabled) during this unless you want to set your multimeter on fire. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KF1gijj03_0 Zorilla fucked around with this message at 23:42 on Sep 1, 2015 |
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 23:27
|
|
