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wormil posted:Why can't we buy Swanson speed squares in the states with nice crisp numbering. That looks basically like this one which is the one I have. I never had any complaints about the sharpness of the markings.
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Aug 26, 2015 04:03
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wormil posted:Why can't we buy Swanson speed squares in the states with nice crisp numbering. We can't buy them at all in europe, I bought this one from some amazon seller in Texas. Swanson metric speed square.
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Aug 26, 2015 04:23
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King Hotpants posted:Probably a stupid question: why concrete? It's harder than wood, it's harder than your tools, and it absorbs water like a motherfucker. Well, I was planning on this being a dual workbench/cat shelter. I thought that a concrete top would be easier to create a water-proof "roof" to give my outdoor cats a dry place to hide out underneath it but maybe that isn't the case? I'm wide open to other suggestions.
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Aug 26, 2015 05:08
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I've been getting into hand tool woodworking over the past few months, my first project was building a dogsled in semi-Inuit style, and after building the whole project on a jankety folding workbench I broke down and bought a vintage 1930's Scandinavian-style bench. It's wooden-screw shoulder vise was chop-less so I added one on and have been restoring old tools when I can find them. The only thing I can't seem to find is hardwood to work with, I'm in Ostrobothnia, so I have to throw myself on the mercy of Finnish woodwizard His Divine Shadow to tell me where the hell you can get something not ply, pine, or spruce.  
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Aug 26, 2015 10:55
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In this country if it's not plywood, pine or spruce it's most likely going to be birch, it's our only real hardwood. A sawmill is where you want to be asking around. It'll be sawn lumber that you will have to resaw and plane on your own, or have someone with the tools to help you. I think you can get stuff like aspen and alder too, no good for outdoor furniture, mostly used in saunas. Where in ostrobothnia are you, north/south of Vaasa? That would aid in helping you.
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Aug 26, 2015 11:03
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I'm in Jakobstad, and I've been going to lumberyards, but have been pretty unimpressed by the lumber quality. Mills would be the next step. I don't mind resawing, but given that I'm using hand tools in an apartment, it adds a bit of additional work.
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Aug 26, 2015 11:48
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I am unreasonably happy that a post from scandinavia is about building a sled.
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Aug 26, 2015 12:08
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Oh wait it's for a sled. I missed that. Then birch is no good at all, it absolutely sucks for outdoor applications. This is the kind of traditional stuff that I guy I know should be able to answer in his sleep. I wouldn't be surprised if they built stuff like that from pine or spruce.
His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 12:32 on Aug 26, 2015 |
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Aug 26, 2015 12:29
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Actually, I already built the sled! It's from home center lumber, mostly pine, and held together with mortise and tenon joints secured with cord to ensure flexbility. I drawbored the two uprights with walnut pegs. It was actually intended to as an interactive museum exhibit, but now I use it for my own programs/living room furniture. I'm mostly looking for a hardwood source for future projects, I like birch, but I just need to find a place to get it. Finland's all about knowing the right guy to ask.
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Aug 26, 2015 13:30
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I once had a green birch log Fed Ex'd to me because I lived in the desert at the time. I was way pumped.
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Aug 26, 2015 13:32
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How hosed is this over time from warping? Wood is walnut and total width there is 15 inches. There is a screw in the center and each of the 4 holes. Its not just a flat top, its a full mitered box above it more or less. The 4 screws are 2 inches from the center screw. I suspect movement will be minimal after finishing to the point it doesn't matter. I made another table like this but it used threaded rod and metal plates so it didn't matter. Though those plates had a similar layout with regards to the screws in a square and haven't had an issue over several seasons. And the two pieces cross at the center with a lovely lap joint where the center screw is.  Full table for reference, hilariously the first one I made is 1/4 inch taller while this one is exactly 2 feet as it should be. 
Sylink fucked around with this message at 14:11 on Aug 26, 2015 |
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Aug 26, 2015 14:08
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Free Market Mambo posted:I once had a green birch log Fed Ex'd to me because I lived in the desert at the time. I was way pumped. A 2nd Mambo has hit the tower.
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Aug 26, 2015 14:54
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Free Market Mambo posted:Actually, I already built the sled! It's from home center lumber, mostly pine, and held together with mortise and tenon joints secured with cord to ensure flexbility. I drawbored the two uprights with walnut pegs. It was actually intended to as an interactive museum exhibit, but now I use it for my own programs/living room furniture. I got this tip though, near j-stad: http://www.kvalitimber.fi/ He also gave a short lecture on wood types of inuit sleds, tl;dr was: Inuits living up near greenland where wood doesn't grow used driftwood, most likely siberian larch Indians living in Canada and Alaska used a type of wood called toboggan The Chukchi people in northern siberia use larch White men in Alaska during the gold rush used sleds made from ash most likely.
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Aug 26, 2015 15:18
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Nice, this is great to know, I'm in Pedersöre often and am appreciative of the tip. I would have loved to build the sled out of more authentic materials, but due to both cost and time restrictions had to go the Hartman route. If I ever make friends with the owner of a diverse forest, poo poo'll get real. The sled was mostly intended for use on dirt, for museum goers to experience man-hauling (weights adjusted for friction-coefficient), and to see the construction techniques up close.
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Aug 26, 2015 18:09
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Sylink, walnut is a very stable wood, probably fine forever. Do the outside screws have a little play?
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Aug 26, 2015 18:14
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Son of a bitch I literally drove right past this place last week.
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Aug 26, 2015 18:14
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wormil posted:Sylink, walnut is a very stable wood, probably fine forever. Do the outside screws have a little play? A little, my calculation was something like 1/64th or less anyway over the distances involved, I think it will be fine, too.
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Aug 26, 2015 18:59
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This may be a strange question, but I'm redoing my closet and trying to go mostly custom. I want it a bit reconfigurable though. Are there any fancier\nicer adjustable shelving hardware as opposed to the old 'bunch of holes with some sort of peg in them' systems? I know they exist, but I guess I'm looking for something really neat as far as wood working goes.
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Aug 26, 2015 22:01
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Maybe french cleats. I'm in the middle of reorganizing my garage to separate the wood, automotive and electronics work areas so I'm using cleats and bespoke holders. I like the look when they're empty, too. Re: worn wood look. I've made that by accident when I had a wood spark plug fixture in the sand blaster. I played with it and found it was very easy to control the depth of the wear by moving the nozzle. I haven't tried it with wire wheels or brushes but I think those would leave tool marks.
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Aug 27, 2015 01:55
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bobua posted:This may be a strange question, but I'm redoing my closet and trying to go mostly custom. I want it a bit reconfigurable though. Are there any fancier\nicer adjustable shelving hardware as opposed to the old 'bunch of holes with some sort of peg in them' systems? I know they exist, but I guess I'm looking for something really neat as far as wood working goes. How about bookcase brackets? They're long metal strips you sink into the sides with notches pressed into them. Pop the little feet/cleats in where you want a shelf and drop the shelf in.
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Aug 27, 2015 14:23
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Dado your drywall and become one with all things.
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Aug 27, 2015 14:37
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French cleats would work in a closet and then you can just make custom boxes/shelves or whatever to hang from them.
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Aug 27, 2015 16:25
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Free Market Mambo posted:Dado your drywall and become one with all things. No joke on my first visit to my now father in laws house before I married my wife, he was drywalling his new office and was freehand cutting drywall with a jigsaw and nailing it to the studs. I has just got off of a 2 summer gig of installing drywall and showed him what could be done with a razor knife a big T-square and a screwgun. I knocked out his office in an afternoon and immediately became his favorite.
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Aug 27, 2015 21:49
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Haha, re: Matthias Wandel's baby https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-PWnXhpo4YQ
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Aug 28, 2015 13:45
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I'm trying to knock out a quickie project, rebuilding a family heirloom because my sister is moving out of my parents place and taking the original. I'm making it identical, but the original is held together with cut nails and hide glue and I'm doweling mine together. That's how part of the face is attached, big nasty cross grain joint that I'm assuming will just crack if I tried that, right? The original got away with it because of loose cut nails I believe. I'm thinking of doweling it to the side panel and doing a table top style hook to attach it to the top panel so the front board can expand a bit.
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Aug 28, 2015 14:46
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Samopsa posted:Haha, re: Matthias Wandel's baby ...Why is the baby in a cardboard box in the bassinet? 
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Aug 28, 2015 15:12
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Shampoo posted:...Why is the baby in a cardboard box in the bassinet? Bassinet's too big for the baby, so covers could get lost / baby could get into uncomfortable positions.
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Aug 28, 2015 15:26
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Hypnolobster posted:I'm trying to knock out a quickie project, rebuilding a family heirloom because my sister is moving out of my parents place and taking the original. I'm making it identical, but the original is held together with cut nails and hide glue and I'm doweling mine together. Wood barely moves along the grain and the other piece looks narrow so total movement would be very small. edit; was on my phone and couldn't see the dimension line, it's a bit bigger than I originally thought. I think your plan is sound. wormil fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Aug 28, 2015 |
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Aug 28, 2015 16:31
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I just picked up 6 Pony 3/4" pipe clamps in good shape and 16 lengths of black pipe ranging from 2' to 8' for $50 off craigslist. Pretty happy to have MORE CLAMPS.
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Aug 28, 2015 16:41
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Almost have my end table complete, I did a test fit prior to gluing, I need to trim the interior shelf because it's too big and won't allow the back joints to close up. I also offset the holes for the breadboard drawbore a bit too much, I was scared the pegs weren't going to make it, they did, but they're a bit gappy in the holes because of all the extra pressure.
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Aug 28, 2015 19:49
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How's this look for a door design for my workshop? The main door would be made of 2x6s tongue-and-grooved together (.25"-deep tongues/grooves): with a framing "skin" of 1x6s nailed on top of it (on the outside of the door):  Hinges on the left. The nails should ensure that the door won't rack. Do I need to have a breadboard-style cross board at the top/bottom of the main door? This isn't a super-fancy design, but it's for a workshop so I don't think it needs to be. Trickiest part will probably be cutting the diagonal braces, since they're at a weird angle (42 degrees).
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Aug 29, 2015 18:02
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If anyone is familiar with John Heisz (youtube), he has a new forum dedicated to making things (wood, metal, electronics, whatever). http://www.ibuildit.ca/ibuildit-forum/index.php /plug
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Aug 29, 2015 20:24
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wormil posted:If anyone is familiar with John Heisz (youtube), he has a new forum dedicated to making things (wood, metal, electronics, whatever). Nice
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Aug 29, 2015 21:53
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Shat this thing together in about 28 hours total to replace an old heirloom piece of furniture for my parents. Built exactly the same except all dowel construction instead of cut nails.   Lessons learned: -Amber shellac is a difficult finish to get perfect on softwood even if you sand obsessively to 320 -Soft pine is extremely difficult to work with -Cloning something that was made by a drunk ancestor is hard if you don't want it to split apart from wood movement. -I need more clamps -I really need to build a workbench, assembly table, and actually build some organization into my shop. I need a planer/jointer/bandsaw pretty badly too. Also, Dowelmax is the tits. I've had mine for a while and I've only done little projects with it. It made this project a million times easier vs pocket holes.  It's also hilariously versatile when it needs to be.
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Aug 31, 2015 01:09
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Looks great. Yeah pine dents and scratches if you look at it wrong and blotches like crazy. That's why I say if you can get pine looking good, you can get about any wood looking good.
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Aug 31, 2015 03:54
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Anyone do 32mm cabs? Looking for some advice on machine set ups and shortcuts.
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Sep 2, 2015 04:38
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I'm going to be making some wiping finishes since they seem really nice. No brushes to wash, handrubbed finishes, deeper penetration of the resin into the wood, fast drying and ability to stop when you reach a desired look. Really sounds like the bees knees. I plan to make a few different formulations to see what works best: I got boat varnish (poly) and I plan to mix that with mineral spirits 50/50, should be a good choice for indoor things, toys, shop stuff, etc. Also the same poly mixed with equal parts oil and mineral spirits, more or less the same as above, but more of a hybrid finish. I just bought some high quality phenolic based spar varnish (Epifanes) and I plan to also mix that 50/50 with mineral spirits for a wiping varnish, I think this will make for an excellent outdoor furniture finish. Phenolic based is apparently the best and unlike poly based stuff can be touched up easily. Anyone used either of these formulations, or wiping finishes in general?
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Sep 2, 2015 11:02
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His Divine Shadow posted:I'm going to be making some wiping finishes since they seem really nice. No brushes to wash, handrubbed finishes, deeper penetration of the resin into the wood, fast drying and ability to stop when you reach a desired look. Really sounds like the bees knees. I use wiping finishes for the most part, sometimes shellac, but my go to furniture finish is a wipe on. I've used the first two you've described, I like the oil one a bit better though for cherry which has been what I've worked with for the most part. Super easy to apply, wipe on, wait, and wipe off. It does take a few more coats to build, but totally worth it in my opinion. I usually end up doing 4 or 5.
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Sep 2, 2015 22:26
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I loving hate polyurethane. I'm in the middle of sealing up some walnut tabletops for our living room. I used BLO first, let that set up for a while, and then started in with oil-based satin poly. I really need these to come out smooth and perfect because we are going to see them every day. I can't seem to avoid bubbles and dust and drips/pooling at the edges. I'm using a small (4") foam roller to apply the stuff. I've tried wiping it on before and it felt like I didn't actually get any finish to stay on the wood, which is why I tried the roller. Previously I also used one of those stupid disposable foam brushes. Will I get better results out of an actual bristle brush? I think I also hate finishing in general, but that's more a product of my situation than the process itself. My garage is so small that I basically can't do anything else while I'm finishing a piece or it'll end up completely covered in dust. If I had a separate area where I could apply finish and let pieces dry, I'm sure i wouldn't hate it quite as much.
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Sep 2, 2015 23:04
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King Hotpants posted:I loving hate polyurethane. I found that build up on the edges/drips and bubbles were the cause of it being a bit too thick. Try thinning 10, 20 or 30% (try different ratios and see what you like) with mineral spirits and brush on using a bristle brush, if it's thinned enough it will self level and the bubbles should come out on their own.
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Sep 2, 2015 23:22
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