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I'm in EU. I have some relatives coming over from the US in September, so I could ask them to bring something for me, thus having a wider choice and no shipping or VAT/duty costs. The Taranis is highly recommended everywhere. But as you say, nobody here has the Taranis in stock at reasonable prices. 273€ plus possible duty and tax (if it's from China) is quite a bit more than I'd like to spend, hence why I'm looking at the i10 whose main downside seems to be not having a module slot. So the two options I'm considering now is just buying the i10 from HK EU, or having a Taranis delivered to my relatives in the US who'll bring it over to me.
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Aug 31, 2015 13:19
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The 273€ was the EU price. I've got it from some shop in Germany via Ebay. I wasn't initially excited about the price, but it's a great remote and it's kind of a buy-once-use-many item, so I swallowed the price tag. You can essentially control two different RC systems with it and program 60 different models into it. For something else, about these nylon spacers, I need to make sense of the dimensions. Hobbyking calls this one 5.6mm x 12mm. How I understand it, the 12mm is total length, and the thread part is 5.6mm, meaning the spacer portion should be 6.4mm, right? http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__85734__5_6mm_x_12mm_M3_Nylon_Threaded_Spacer_10pc_CN_Warehouse_.html I'm currently designing my drone in Inventor, and need to know properly for component spacing. Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 14:57 on Aug 31, 2015 |
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Aug 31, 2015 14:55
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mobby_6kl posted:I'm in EU. I have some relatives coming over from the US in September, so I could ask them to bring something for me, thus having a wider choice and no shipping or VAT/duty costs. yes do that Combat Pretzel posted:
That seems right. You can multipacks of m3 spacers for cheap on amazon as well
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Aug 31, 2015 16:02
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MRSS always seems to have the taranis in stock whenever I look. http://www.multirotorsuperstore.com/frsky-taranis-x9d-plus.html
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Aug 31, 2015 18:39
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mobby_6kl posted:How limiting would this built-in module be? Obviously I'd prefer having the flexibility but if the standard one is decent enough I could probably deal with it and mod it eventually if really necessary. Still this does suck. I dunno, it's probably not a disaster. There are people out there still rocking the stock Turnigy tx/rx combo, but the selection as far as receivers is pretty minimal IIRC. I think the biggest reason to go with FrSky is range and telemetry (which you have to mod), half of which the stock Turnigy TX you posted will provide. I was going to go with OrangeRX for my TX so I could use a satellite RX instead of a bigger one, but in the end it didn't matter too much to me and I went with FrSky. I'm sure the stock RX/TX will be fine and if you can solder something different in later then it's not a big deal either way. Your biggest drawback is probably lack of OpenTX software availability, but if the stock FW is good enough then it doesn't matter. I've had one flight under my belt so take my advice with a grain of salt  edit: DO get the Taranis though. I'm already having regrets just by virtue of the fact that I've spent dollars and time modding my 9X where I could have just bought a Taranis to begin with. No complaints about the 9X itself mind you, just that for the effort and time I could have done better. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 02:45 on Sep 1, 2015 |
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Sep 1, 2015 02:43
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Built my Pitts Model 12 foamie and my spektrum module for my taranis today.  Can't wait to go fly wednesday. And to reiterate what everyone has said, just buy the taranis, you won't regret it. I tell people that buying a spektrum is like getting an iphone, its nice out of the box and does what it says, but a taranis is like an android in that its just as good out of the box, but you have complete control of what it can do..
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Sep 1, 2015 03:26
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Except the Spektrum isn't twice the price and nobody makes fun of you for owning a Taranis  (I kid because I love) I took my 9X apart again today and dabbed a little bit of grease between the throttle tension blade and the plastic of the gimbal and holy poo poo it feels so much nicer.
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Sep 1, 2015 04:17
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Today I walked by the huge building that Target used to be located in before they closed up shop in Canada and noticed their huge, empty parkade. For some reason I now have the urge to build a 250 class quad. Other than Rotorgeeks, are there any other places I should be looking up here for a kit to build one? Since our dollar is so lovely right now shopping in country would be preferred.
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Sep 1, 2015 05:42
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Coxswain Balls posted:Today I walked by the huge building that Target used to be located in before they closed up shop in Canada and noticed their huge, empty parkade. For some reason I now have the urge to build a 250 class quad. Other than Rotorgeeks, are there any other places I should be looking up here for a kit to build one? Since our dollar is so lovely right now shopping in country would be preferred. http://www.paragonuav.com/
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Sep 1, 2015 07:24
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Yeah I really wanted to get the Taranis but until it just wasn't feasible to get it locally or from China for reasonable money. I'll try this first, if it doesn't work out for some reason, I'll go with the i10 from HK. It will work work with the OrangeRX R615X DSM2/DSMX receivers I already ordered, right?
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Sep 1, 2015 09:40
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mobby_6kl posted:Yeah I really wanted to get the Taranis but until it just wasn't feasible to get it locally or from China for reasonable money. I'll try this first, if it doesn't work out for some reason, I'll go with the i10 from HK. From your posts I assume your somewhere in Scandinavia? I'm in Denmark and I just ordered a Taranis from this site: http://rclife.co.uk/Frsky-RC/Taranis-X9D-Transmitter/Taranis-X9D-Plus-Transmitter Seems like a good deal and customer support was very fast with an issue I had with my order. refleks fucked around with this message at 10:02 on Sep 1, 2015 |
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Sep 1, 2015 10:00
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Czech Republic, actually. But whoa that is a good deal, cheaper than in the US even. With shipping it's still $80 less than locally and no VAT/duty bullshit 
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Sep 1, 2015 11:12
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Anyone here owns or has experience with the BrainFPV flight controller? I'm looking for a kitchen sink controller, this one has an OSD built-in, saving me space, and uses mini-JST all over the place instead of those big headers. And it runs that TauLabs stuff.refleks posted:I'm in Denmark and I just ordered a Taranis from this site: 
Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 12:02 on Sep 1, 2015 |
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Sep 1, 2015 12:00
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Combat Pretzel posted:Anyone here owns or has experience with the BrainFPV flight controller? I'm looking for a kitchen sink controller, this one has an OSD built-in, saving me space, and uses mini-JST all over the place instead of those big headers. And it runs that TauLabs stuff. I'll let you know if I ever receive one or I just lost a poo poo-ton of money...
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Sep 1, 2015 13:38
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Coxswain Balls posted:Today I walked by the huge building that Target used to be located in before they closed up shop in Canada and noticed their huge, empty parkade. For some reason I now have the urge to build a 250 class quad. Other than Rotorgeeks, are there any other places I should be looking up here for a kit to build one? Since our dollar is so lovely right now shopping in country would be preferred. I don't know what the zeitgeist regarding MyRCMart.com is, but I bought my first kit there for $130CDN or so and it came with - CC3D (well, I had the option to get a CC3D but I got the KK2.1 like dummy because I didn't know better) - ZMR 250 clone frame (H250-CF Pro) - RCX 1950kv motors - HobbyWing XRotor 20A ESCs - BEC Paid no import duties and everything came rather quickly. Shipping wasn't free but it was "reasonable" IMO. Obviously I still needed to add a battery, RX/TX, and whatever FPV gear I wanted. I've since added the Turnigy 9X from HobbyKing, a few 1300mAh 4S batteries sourced from Canada, and no FPV gear yet but all in all I think I managed to put in about $400CDN getting one frame in the air, but a lot of that was costs that I can spread around other frames as well. I'm also not saying that it's not possible to source these cheaper locally, but to be honest I just sort of paid for the convenience of finding everything in one place rather than spending the next 2 days taking notes on prices and picking items from 20 different sites. Rotorgeeks is nice but they're a little on the expensive side (may not be after you factor in shipping, currency conversion, etc). some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 14:31 on Sep 1, 2015 |
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Sep 1, 2015 14:25
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Sunnysky motors, are they decent? Specifically the X2212-13 980kv II? Seems like the motor I want for awesome thrust with 8".
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Sep 1, 2015 20:14
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I think I need to upgrade my ZMR250 to 4s batteries. My flock of 3s are looking rather shotty and it's a bit more sluggish than I would like. 
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Sep 1, 2015 20:33
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Cannon_Fodder posted:I think I need to upgrade my ZMR250 to 4s batteries. My flock of 3s are looking rather shotty and it's a bit more sluggish than I would like. Things I didn't consider when converting to 4s: 1. ESC BEC's are linear. Higher input voltage is baaaaaad. 2. 12volt cameras and VTXs don't like 16.4v. 3. 4s packs are taller and won't fit inside the fuselage. (not a problem on a ZMR) 4. 4s ESCS tend to also go up to 6s, so might as well build for that. Which has led me down the path of building a 35mm square 12v/5v regulator board... so I can upgrade anything easily. without needing to find airframe specific PDBs and buying extra vregs.
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Sep 1, 2015 20:59
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There's got to be some pre-built 12/5 VDC regulator goodness out there. I'm in the same boat as I'll be picking up FPV gear soon I've got plenty of regulators in my parts bin but I've only ever built linear stuff before so I'm willing to put a few dollars towards something that isn't awful
some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 21:32 on Sep 1, 2015 |
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Sep 1, 2015 21:30
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just get fpv gear that accepts a full voltage range if you havent bought it yet. all my poo poo will handle 5-20v
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Sep 1, 2015 21:32
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Also a fair point.
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Sep 1, 2015 21:34
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Martytoof posted:There's got to be some pre-built 12/5 VDC regulator goodness out there. I'm in the same boat as I'll be picking up FPV gear soon You'd think there would be.... When they're out there, they're built into PDBs. Linear leads to the ESC BEC problem. Most people are using the Poloulo regs. the nicker posted:just get fpv gear that accepts a full voltage range if you havent bought it yet. all my poo poo will handle 5-20v That only gets you to 4s. I figure once I take the dive to 4s, 6s isn't far away. And a regulator is a great way to help isolate your video and control systems from motor noise. ... We'll see. If I don't find a market for it, I'll only be making a few of them.
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Sep 1, 2015 22:55
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Martytoof posted:Is there anywhere to get CCW m5 locking nuts? One of the nuts that came with my motors disappeared and it's a CCW shaft. I know I can get them on eBay but I'd rather just get a regular locking nut instead of one of those bullet-shaped cone toppers. Late but I found out a couple months ago you can get these at home depot if there's one in your area. They're by the screws and bolts in drawers. Stumbled upon that one day when I was getting some other supplies.
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Sep 1, 2015 23:49
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Finally got my Extreme Flight 83" MXS in the air. Running 12S 5000 in this one, it's pulling about 5000 watts peak and the power is just insane. I'm still working on making the wiring neat and some ESC cooling and settings as it got up to 186F on a gentle flight. But even with the very small amount of time I have on it, this has to be one of the best flying airplanes I've ever flown!
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Sep 2, 2015 03:43
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Wojcigitty posted:Finally got my Extreme Flight 83" MXS in the air. 5000watt?  I've been mostly neglecting my 3D planes this summer, as I've been focusing on the getting the Talon 'business ready', but as that is now mostly stable, I want to do 3D again..and the summer is just about over :/
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Sep 2, 2015 04:19
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What's a decent type of glue that can be used with foam (both reticulated and styrofoam)? Low-temp glue gun? Epoxy? I'm sporting some new bits of foam glued to my fingers from trying the typical cyanoacrylate I've used for everything else, which I should have predicted would happen with a porous material. Off to find some acetone!  Edit: It's for gluing the foam strips to the styrofoam Quanum V2 goggles.
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Sep 2, 2015 09:09
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Wojcigitty posted:Finally got my Extreme Flight 83" MXS in the air. That's nuts! In a good way of course. Thanks everyone, I ordered the Taranis from the UK shop and removed the backordered 9XR from the HK cart so it finally shipped after several months  Now not to crash everything on the first flight once it arrives.
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Sep 2, 2015 10:19
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Krittick posted:What's a decent type of glue that can be used with foam (both reticulated and styrofoam)? Low-temp glue gun? Epoxy? Depending on the type of foam and how chemical resistant it is, either Welder from Homax or Foam-Tac from Beacon. They are similar, extremely rubbery and tough once dry. Welder has acetone in it so it will dissolve some materials, but it is cheaper. Welder will turn yellow and brittle after a lot of UV exposure (like a year of flying in the sun on some things), but Foam tac is UV stable. Foam tac is a bit pricier but works on everything. Both are super handy to have around. In fact I repaired a chipped canopy for my MXS last night with foam-tac because I dropped it like a dumbass.
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Sep 2, 2015 11:34
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Krittick posted:Edit: It's for gluing the foam strips to the styrofoam Quanum V2 goggles. I used a low temp glue gun for that specific purpose, it worked fine.
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Sep 2, 2015 13:35
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Gorilla glue is my go-to for bonding foam. It doesn't stick to polyethylene though.
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Sep 2, 2015 17:00
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Wojcigitty posted:Depending on the type of foam and how chemical resistant it is, either Welder from Homax or Foam-Tac from Beacon. They are similar, extremely rubbery and tough once dry. Welder has acetone in it so it will dissolve some materials, but it is cheaper. Welder will turn yellow and brittle after a lot of UV exposure (like a year of flying in the sun on some things), but Foam tac is UV stable. Foam tac is a bit pricier but works on everything. Both are super handy to have around. In fact I repaired a chipped canopy for my MXS last night with foam-tac because I dropped it like a dumbass. Perfect, will grab a bottle of Foam-Tac from the hobby shop today and maybe I'll actually finish building this sometime this week. I plan to get into fixed-wing craft eventually as well, so it'll be useful to have around for that too.
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Sep 2, 2015 19:11
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Mister Sinewave posted:Gorilla glue is my go-to for bonding foam. It doesn't stick to polyethylene though. How do you clamp your foam? I tried using white gorilla glue to reinforce landing gear on a plane, I put about 5 books on top to hold it down and the poo poo managed to expand enough to make the books slide off, then it expanded more. I had to use a hacksaw to cut off what I glued on, then had to sand it flat again. Then I just used foam tac and it worked perfectly.
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Sep 2, 2015 21:23
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I used gorilla superglue thick (ca glue) and wood clamps with something between them and the foam to spread out the pressure. Worked with minimal marking.
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Sep 2, 2015 22:53
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APM flight controller question: What'd be involved in setting up a CX-20 to take off, follow some waypoints, and then land without my having to pick up the transmitter?
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Sep 3, 2015 04:35
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DreadLlama posted:APM flight controller question: You need an APM*, GPS and probably a telemetry radio. (915mhz). Then you'll need either an android tablet or a laptop (windows or linux). You could in theory do it with a bluetooth module instead of the telemetry, but then you would have no chance of recovery, should it decide to go rogue. * or Pixhawk.
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Sep 3, 2015 04:56
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A Yolo Wizard posted:I used gorilla superglue thick (ca glue) and wood clamps with something between them and the foam to spread out the pressure. Worked with minimal marking. I also found putting a strip of plain packing tape over a joint I'm using gorilla glue on, with a few pins to help hold it in place works well. Keeps it fairly smooth, and more likely to push into and along the break.
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Sep 3, 2015 05:21
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I would use whatever tape is least likely to damage the outside after removal
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Sep 3, 2015 05:24
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ImplicitAssembler posted:You need an APM*, GPS and probably a telemetry radio. (915mhz). Then you'll need either an android tablet or a laptop (windows or linux). You could in theory do it with a bluetooth module instead of the telemetry, but then you would have no chance of recovery, should it decide to go rogue. I have a telemetry thing, and I am typing on my TheLaptop. My flightdrone is grounded right now because the gps crashed it into a lawn chair immediately after takeoff, so while I'm mad at it, I've got time for soldering while I wait for new props to arrive. What's step 2?
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Sep 3, 2015 06:00
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Get the quad(?) tuned, so it flies nicely Get familiar with Mission Planner Set up a mission, upload it to the quad, set it to auto and hope for the best? edit: Read all this http://copter.ardupilot.com/ (Seriously)
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Sep 3, 2015 08:11
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Pixhawk good? Seems like a mongo huge one, tho. How many of you guys without racing drones actually fly in rate mode, anyway? Also, I tried myself at PID tuning a while ago. I thought initially I had some nice values, because basic flight patterns seemed to work OK, but for some reason I had to dial expo back a little. Never gave it a second thought. Now as days get windier, I noticed that the drone has a tendency to want to topple over into the flight direction. I figured I start tuning again, and at the end I had different values and needed the expo again for same control feeling. Turns I had to raise P by 30% and dial I back by 40%. The drone was apparently flying more on I than P, errors seemed to accumulate to the point that a small wind gust would push it over, because the PID controller could react fast enough. Tuning in rate mode in the wind is however a loving pain in the rear end.
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Sep 3, 2015 12:55
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