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So I had a few minutes after work yesterday. Flew over my local Catholic Church and snapped some pics. No time to edit or anything so please mercilessly mock my photography skills.  Church Building  Town water tower  Cemetery/Grotto 
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Sep 3, 2015 12:57
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I love aerials. One day I'll pick up something that can fly a full camera for the effect. For some reason the last photo reminded me of the old "airplane crash in Polish cemetery" joke and I couldn't stop giggling.
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Sep 3, 2015 13:35
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Martytoof posted:I love aerials. One day I'll pick up something that can fly a full camera for the effect. Having a great time with my Phantom 3 Advanced so far. Haven't gotten that much time to fly it but when I have it's awesome.
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Sep 3, 2015 13:57
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Combat Pretzel posted:Pixhawk good? Seems like a mongo huge one, tho. PID values are stable under the circumstances that you've tuned them in, once you introduce dynamics such as windspeed/etc, they go out the window. From my understanding of control engineering, on-the-spot PID stability is quite tricky to do, if not impossible.
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Sep 3, 2015 20:34
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I'm flying around with my 250 quad, and every once in a while, it'll seem like it looses power. This is a new occurrence, I've flown this thing for several dozen hours with nothing like this. It will continue with the same command, like angle of roll or pitch or what have you, but it sounds like the engines are cutting out, all at once. As suddenly as this happens, it'll catch again, try to right itself, and go along merrily (assuming it doesn't crash). I did a break down, nothing is loose, and all of the connections are soldered well. I don't think it's one connection, as the whole thing is loosing power. I don't have any experience trouble shooting quads, so where should I look? My initial guess is the power distribution board may be bad? Any advice?
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Sep 4, 2015 06:37
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Takkaryx posted:I'm flying around with my 250 quad, and every once in a while, it'll seem like it looses power. This is a new occurrence, I've flown this thing for several dozen hours with nothing like this. It will continue with the same command, like angle of roll or pitch or what have you, but it sounds like the engines are cutting out, all at once. As suddenly as this happens, it'll catch again, try to right itself, and go along merrily (assuming it doesn't crash). I did a break down, nothing is loose, and all of the connections are soldered well. I don't think it's one connection, as the whole thing is loosing power. I don't have any experience trouble shooting quads, so where should I look? My initial guess is the power distribution board may be bad? Any advice? Any chance it may actually be your Tx?
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Sep 4, 2015 07:19
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Arrest that rear end! posted:For the first time in ages I have two fully functional mini quads at the same time (instead of one or more broken ones): Could you give me some advice or pointers for getting a custom frame cut? Do you do it with a waterjet? I've been printing these 180mm frames for 5" props and I've come up with something I'd like permanent. Is it a web service you upload an .EPS to, or is it a local custom shop?  You absolutely can fit 5" props on a 180mm frame, but every 180mm frame online will only fit 4" props because they are wider than they are long. Unacceptable. A Yolo Wizard posted:You usually cut cf with a cnc router bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 16:56 on Sep 4, 2015 |
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Sep 4, 2015 15:28
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You usually cut cf with a cnc router https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p5WCDuYMyyA a 2x4 one is getting assembled at our makerspace now, so I hope to get some stuff cut soon 32MB OF ESRAM posted:I can't remember, are you in Toronto? no moron izzard fucked around with this message at 18:12 on Sep 4, 2015 |
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Sep 4, 2015 15:30
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Woo he HK order arrived within two days! Still waiting for the TX from the UK but this gives me some time to assemble what I have and agonize over all the batteries having different loving connectors. Anyway, in addition to the missing drone parts, I also got the Floater Jet/EasyStar thingy. Apparently I'm supposed to glue the wings in place to the fuselage, which isn't great because I suspect the whole plane won't fit into my Miata. Are there any tricks possible to keep the wings removable, or is that just not possible while maintaining the necessary strength?
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Sep 4, 2015 23:34
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Odette posted:PID values are stable under the circumstances that you've tuned them in, once you introduce dynamics such as windspeed/etc, they go out the window. From my understanding of control engineering, on-the-spot PID stability is quite tricky to do, if not impossible. In better news, Fat Shark fixed my goggles and they're on the way back home. I can finally start dicking around some more in rate mode.  A Yolo Wizard posted:You usually cut cf with a cnc router
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Sep 4, 2015 23:45
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Finally got everything assembled for my FPV quad! Had some wiring confusion and ended up resorting to using a hand-drawn wiring diagram from an obscure RC forum posted in 2014.  First FPV flight was seriously one of the coolest things I've ever done. Now to get an action cam to record my flights... 
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Sep 5, 2015 00:37
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mobby_6kl posted:I also got the Floater Jet/EasyStar thingy. Apparently I'm supposed to glue the wings in place to the fuselage, which isn't great because I suspect the whole plane won't fit into my Miata. Are there any tricks possible to keep the wings removable, or is that just not possible while maintaining the necessary strength? I think I have pictures of my floater jet in this thread. I use Velcro tabs to hold the wings in. Just glue the wing spar channels all the way across, and leave the spar itself floating free inside, then you can decide how you want to secure the wings to each other. Combat Pretzel posted:Can a water jet cutter deal with CF? Water jets cut CF better than a CNC router does because the CF wears down router bits very quickly, unless you use diamond abrasive bits, but those just take forever to cut in general. However it's much easier to build a simple CNC gantry that holds a high speed spindle, compared to building a high pressure water/garnet jet.
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Sep 5, 2015 00:45
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Cool, thanks. Was just wondering, because I have a friend that has a water jet cutter at work and can cut a bunch of plates of the frame for my upcoming drone. The initial version will be in GRP, because it's cheaper, but I want carbon eventually, after seeing the abuse my cheap Nighthawk carbon frame can take. However I keep reading things about fibers fringing on the cutting sites. Also, speaking of custom stuff, I had a shower thought about 3D printing custom props. Would printed ABS pieces survive the high RPMs of 4S 1000kv motors (i.e. do they have strength similar to injection moulded parts), or will I have to dodge plastic shrapnel? I wanted to try all sorts of stupid poo poo, like golfball dimples and special blade ends used with helicopters.
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Sep 5, 2015 01:55
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Combat Pretzel posted:Cool, thanks. Was just wondering, because I have a friend that has a water jet cutter at work and can cut a bunch of plates of the frame for my upcoming drone. The initial version will be in GRP, because it's cheaper, but I want carbon eventually, after seeing the abuse my cheap Nighthawk carbon frame can take. However I keep reading things about fibers fringing on the cutting sites. So would you be doing the acetone bath thing to make the surfaces smooth? PLA has better layer adhesion and is an overall stronger material I read. Nylon is even stronger and most printers can handle nylon filament but it is finicky.
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Sep 5, 2015 05:13
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32MB OF ESRAM posted:Any chance it may actually be your Tx? How would I go about troubleshooting this? I'm using a CC3D board with OpenPilot, so I can fiddle with stuff on the computer, but I don't know what I should be looking for or how to re-create the issue.
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Sep 5, 2015 19:48
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32MB OF ESRAM posted:So would you be doing the acetone bath thing to make the surfaces smooth? PLA has better layer adhesion and is an overall stronger material I read. Nylon is even stronger and most printers can handle nylon filament but it is finicky. --edit: Shapeways seems to print with nylon powder. Is that worth anything? I usually see something about filaments. --edit2: Any particular reason why a lot of drone props have sharp leading edges? I thought wings should have blunt ones? Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 21:41 on Sep 5, 2015 |
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Sep 5, 2015 21:17
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Combat Pretzel posted:I have no idea what you just said. I just have loose plans for 3D printing some parts, mainly the camera chassis and maybe small winglets to divert some downwash over the ESCs (I'm planning carbon tubes as arms, to which to clip these winglets on, probably also doubling as landing gear), the prop thing came up as a side thought. The idea was to design some stuff in 3dsmax and get it printed over at Shapeways. I suppose I'll be looking whether they can do nylon or not. I would stay really far away from printing your own props. Shapeways is good, but the method they use to print creates brittle parts. So much stress is put on the props, they really should have as perfectly smooth a surface as possible. Chassis parts will be pretty reliable though. No idea about the prop edges but Bullnose props are the type I prefer, are those the kind you were expecting to see?
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Sep 6, 2015 00:44
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Combat Pretzel posted:--edit2: Any particular reason why a lot of drone props have sharp leading edges? I thought wings should have blunt ones? Wings have to work over a large angle of attack range.
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Sep 6, 2015 02:10
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32MB OF ESRAM posted:No idea about the prop edges but Bullnose props are the type I prefer, are those the kind you were expecting to see?
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Sep 6, 2015 03:04
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Well I received my Taranis. Really looking nice, and the guy at rclife.co.uk was very nice and helpful.
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Sep 6, 2015 10:05
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Combat Pretzel posted:--edit2: Any particular reason why a lot of drone props have sharp leading edges? I thought wings should have blunt ones? Round noses are hard to mold... At least with any accuracy. That the bulk of the reason cheap props are sharp. Now there's a lot more to it, and it's a deep rabbit hole, but I can leave you with a few things. First, propellers are really hard. Just in general. We'll look at the specific case of a multicopter, but to a lesser extent this covers all things that use a spinny thing stirring up air outside of a duct. Lets talk about AoA. If we're trundling along at say.. 20mph, the hub of your 5" prop is probably seeing 40mph incoming air. The air near the tip is going to be seeing air moving at 120mph. The airfoils that work best at those speeds are vastly different. Now lets say you're really hauling, and you're doing 70mph. The tip speeds may be in the same ballpark, but now your hub, instead of seeing 40mph, is seeing 70mph air. That's a heck of an AOA change. This is also why the prop near the hub, is really not all that useful. When I calculate useful rotor area, I usually throw out the inner third of the props swept area. Okey, so we've figured out that operating over a wide speed range makes props have a bad day. How about cross sections? Props are more limited by their ultimate strength, than by their airfoil shape. Spinning a prop puts a lot of force on the blade root. Blade roots are often thickened, to the detriment of their airfoil section. That said, the same rules apply to props, as do wings. A good airfoil section on a prop makes a big difference. Lets say you use Cessnas standby, the NACA-2412 By the time you scale an airfoil down to multicopter rotor sizes, a 12% thick airfoil seems pretty razor thin. Sharp leading edges "also work pretty well" for airfoils. Especially as you start to get to really fast prop speeds. It's worth reading this: http://rexresearch.com/lippsprop/lipps.htm And https://books.google.com/books?id=x...opellor&f=false So... how deep do you wanna go? :-) ImplicitAssembler posted:Wings have to work over a large angle of attack range. So do props. Imagine what the AOA is like at hover, and at 70mph.
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Sep 6, 2015 10:36
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Nerobro posted:So... how deep do you wanna go? :-)
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Sep 6, 2015 12:07
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Nerobro posted:Round noses are hard to mold... At least with any accuracy. That the bulk of the reason cheap props are sharp. Now there's a lot more to it, and it's a deep rabbit hole, but I can leave you with a few things. This is great. Please go into as much depth as you'd like. Particularly interested in tradeoffs between efficiency and noise in prop design.
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Sep 6, 2015 20:46
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My goggles came with a camera switch, with the intention of allowing quick switching between the FPV view and the view in front of me. Do people usually just wire up another FPV camera and attach it to the goggles for this purpose, or is there a specific type of camera I should use for this?
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Sep 6, 2015 21:49
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I'd just do the cheapest board camera you can find
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Sep 7, 2015 00:16
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Going off the deep end...   --edit: The airflow is unrealistic, because the simulated wind tunnel is too narrow and compresses air too much. Still looks neat, tho. Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 02:52 on Sep 7, 2015 |
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Sep 7, 2015 02:45
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The Taranis is here (well, at the post office), of course it arrived while I went out to get lunch for half an hour.CrazyLittle posted:I think I have pictures of my floater jet in this thread. I use Velcro tabs to hold the wings in. Just glue the wing spar channels all the way across, and leave the spar itself floating free inside, then you can decide how you want to secure the wings to each other. Thanks. I went through your posts and you do mention that, but no pics. I get the idea of course, but if you could post some photos this would be helpful to understand the actual implementation. How do you guys deal with the different connectors on the batteries, planes, charges etc? Do you use adapters or resolder the connectors on batteries or the aircraft? Basically the situation I'm in is this:
PS. The imax B6 charger I got takes 11-18V. I have a shitload of Lenovo 20V laptop PSUs... will this blow up the charger?
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Sep 7, 2015 13:30
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I don't think you want to charge with the big connector. I charge my batteries with the balance cable. I've bought some 3 cell batteries that were JST and cut that off to put a Deans plug on. Just be careful to put some electrical tape/heat shrink over the battery leads after they're cut or you could make big sparks
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Sep 7, 2015 15:18
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t5JgnMJzCtQ Have we talked about this yet? Because... 
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Sep 7, 2015 19:04
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32MB OF ESRAM posted:I don't think you want to charge with the big connector. I charge my batteries with the balance cable. For now I got some connectors and cable from a local store so I could either change the connectors or make an adapter. But, fuuuuck in my excitement I forgot to change the HK order and got two OrangeRX R615 that of course now won't work with the Taranis. Not that they had any other receivers in stock. BTW the Taranis seems to be crippled by some EU BS and only has the D16-eu tx mode. Since I don't know anything about the FrSky receivers, which ones should I get? I have the previously mentioned basic FloaterJet as well as the DJI F450 with Naza-M. I think I just want telemetry I guess and other than that, cheaper is better.
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Sep 7, 2015 19:33
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32MB OF ESRAM posted:Just be careful to put some electrical tape/heat shrink over the battery leads after they're cut or you could make big sparks Better still, only cut 1 and solder one at the time.
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Sep 7, 2015 20:09
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Elendil004 posted:Have we talked about this yet? Because... At least it's better than the guy who used the yoga ball as a shock absorber, and is sitting right on the same plane as the open, unprotected props. This guy's at least slightly below the kill zone, and has that (lol) shield for his head.
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Sep 7, 2015 23:12
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CrazyLittle posted:At least it's better than the guy who used the yoga ball as a shock absorber, and is sitting right on the same plane as the open, unprotected props. This guy's at least slightly below the kill zone, and has that (lol) shield for his head.
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Sep 7, 2015 23:14
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32MB OF ESRAM posted:I don't think you want to charge with the big connector. I charge my batteries with the balance cable. I'm pretty sure only the cheapest of chargers work via the balance plug only. Connect them both if there are connections for both
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Sep 8, 2015 01:37
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mobby_6kl posted:
everything I have is xt60 or the tiny 1 cell battery connector (except for the ec3, which will work with an xt60 charge lead) 
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Sep 8, 2015 01:43
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Get the quad(?) tuned, so it flies nicely I meant more like, "How do I solder the telemetry part to the FC?"
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Sep 8, 2015 03:03
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DreadLlama posted:I meant more like, "How do I solder the telemetry part to the FC?" Erhh, you plug the cable from the telemetry module into one of the telemetry ports. It's all at the link I provided. http://copter.ardupilot.com/wiki/common-3dr-radio-version-2/
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Sep 8, 2015 06:47
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mobby_6kl posted:How do you guys deal with the different connectors on the batteries, planes, charges etc? Do you use adapters or resolder the connectors on batteries or the aircraft? Basically the situation I'm in is this:
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Sep 8, 2015 08:49
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Thanks. I think I'll just make a XT60->Deans adapter for charging for now and then start replacing stuff once I'm settled on what I want to use. This hobby is really great for  if you want to keep researching and never get off the drat ground. So I'd really appreciate some suggestions on the receivers for my shiny new Taranis.
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Sep 8, 2015 15:30
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If you are using sbus or cppm, it does not matter how many physical connections are on it, just go for whats smallest. I'd get the X4R-SB or the D4R-II
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Sep 8, 2015 17:13
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