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If you just want it to be an alarm with no OS overheads, Arduino would be lower power, cable of running at 12v (and 5v as they come with built in voltage regulators). Watch this video for ideas: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pvHIV0bNRe4 Jamsta fucked around with this message at 16:35 on Aug 29, 2015 |
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Aug 29, 2015 16:29
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A Model A pulls around 100-150mA or so without any extra accessories like a WiFi adapter connected (for those power jumps up to at least 250mA or so). So if you grab a big battery meant to recharge phones, like a 10,000 mA-hour battery, then it could power the Pi at a steady 150mA for about 66 hours. In reality though a battery can only give about 80% of its power before the voltage drops very quickly so it's more like 53 hours. Since you need 12 volts, something you might consider is getting a large sealed lead acid battery like one of these meant to power fire/building alarm systems (or bigger, in fact you could use a car battery). That could power your siren directly (using a transistor or relay to turn it on or off) and then you could use a DC-DC converter to drop the 12V down to the 5V the Pi needs efficiently: https://www.adafruit.com/products/1385
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Aug 29, 2015 20:50
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An Arduino would be fine for a simple alarm system. A Raspberry Pi (or Intel Edison!) would be good if you wanted to do something like image capture (and even recognition) as part of your security system.
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Aug 30, 2015 05:51
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Thanks, I'll go with the Arduino. Seems like the simpler solution. GSM functionality looks like a fun thing to add too.
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Aug 30, 2015 10:06
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mod sassinator posted:A Model A pulls around 100-150mA or so without any extra accessories like a WiFi adapter connected (for those power jumps up to at least 250mA or so). I've done a lot of testing on the A+ and it runs at 168-175mA with an open SSH connection using the edimax wifi dongle, although it does peak to almost 300mA briefly (1-2 seconds) during boot using Raspbian. I've happily run an A+ off of a 69x110mm (about the size of a regular playing card) 5v solar panel in the past but it needs a capacitor for that brief 300mA spike. But yeah, this is arduino + xbee territory. You could probably power the whole thing off of 4x eneloop AA batteries + a well placed solar panel/charger.
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Aug 30, 2015 20:55
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I got a RPi2 to use with RetroPie (and just generally gently caress around with), but I'm kind of curious if I can use this to save a little money. I basically only use Windows to run YNAB, my printer, and my scanner, and can otherwise survive entirely in Chrome OS. I hate keeping around a full windows machine just for this. Would the Pi2 be able to function as a Chrome Remote Desktop host, CUPS server, SMB server, and very occasionally run a lightweight program through WINE? I know people use them for CUPS and Samba, but I suspect running Chrome Remote Desktop and YNAB might kill it.
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Aug 31, 2015 01:25
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IuniusBrutus posted:I got a RPi2 to use with RetroPie (and just generally gently caress around with), but I'm kind of curious if I can use this to save a little money. In order to use WINE on a Raspberry Pi, you will need to run it within QEMU or another x86 VM, since the Pi's ARM. It'll likely run like absolute poo poo if you try to do that, since the CPU's not the best the start with, and then has to run a VM on top of everything else.
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Aug 31, 2015 01:33
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Somebody feel free to correct me if I'm wrong on this one, but WINE doesn't do instruction translation from x86->ARM, so there should be no way it can run real x86 Windows apps.
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Aug 31, 2015 01:34
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G-Prime posted:Somebody feel free to correct me if I'm wrong on this one, but WINE doesn't do instruction translation from x86->ARM, so there should be no way it can run real x86 Windows apps. That's what QEMU is for, you basically run an instance of x86 linux in it on your ARM device, and run WINE within that. Slow as heck on most ARM devices, but will work.
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Aug 31, 2015 01:42
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IuniusBrutus posted:I got a RPi2 to use with RetroPie (and just generally gently caress around with), but I'm kind of curious if I can use this to save a little money. Check out a little x86 Chromebox, you might be able to run Linux inside it (with Crouton) and then run Wine to use YNAB, etc. I would try out an Ubuntu Live CD image first to make sure Wine can run the programs you use.
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Aug 31, 2015 01:46
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Most all chromebooks have VT-X and often VT-D support, enough to run either VirtualBox or get super fancy and run KVM. Chromium.org has an official walk through on building Chromium with KVM support, and Crouton has a Virtualbox package. But if your Chromebook is ARM, it will have just as much luck running Windows apps as your Pi currently does. It looks like it's currently about a 80/20 mix of Intel/ARM right now.
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Aug 31, 2015 01:47
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Nintendo Kid posted:That's what QEMU is for, you basically run an instance of x86 linux in it on your ARM device, and run WINE within that. Slow as heck on most ARM devices, but will work. Yeah, I just didn't see your post. But if you're going to run a full VM to do the instruction translation, may as well run a VM of Windows inside it, rather than doing translation AND a compatibility layer. A stripped down copy of Win 7 ought to run... well, not like hot garbage, but close. But at least you wouldn't have to worry about regressions from adding the interpretation of WINE to the mix.
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Aug 31, 2015 02:20
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Well ordinarily I'd recommend a full VM, but the Pi2 is RAM constrained so WINE will do a better job given the conditions at hand. He's not expecting games after all.
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Aug 31, 2015 02:31
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IuniusBrutus posted:I got a RPi2 to use with RetroPie (and just generally gently caress around with), but I'm kind of curious if I can use this to save a little money. Does your scanner work with SANE and your printer with CUPS? And isn't there an Android app environment for Linux in which you could just run YNAB for Android? Maybe you wouldn't need to deal with WINE at all.
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Aug 31, 2015 03:01
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Nintendo Kid posted:Well ordinarily I'd recommend a full VM, but the Pi2 is RAM constrained so WINE will do a better job given the conditions at hand. He's not expecting games after all. I'm surprised WINE doesn't have hooks for directly plugging in x86 emulation like QEMU, rather than being run in a full emulated OS. Given how well "emulate the CPU but make the API calls native" systems have worked for the past 20+ years it seems like a no-brainier.
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Aug 31, 2015 03:04
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eschaton posted:I'm surprised WINE doesn't have hooks for directly plugging in x86 emulation like QEMU, rather than being run in a full emulated OS. Given how well "emulate the CPU but make the API calls native" systems have worked for the past 20+ years it seems like a no-brainier. Because ain't nobody with the experience has been contributing that to the project.
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Aug 31, 2015 03:12
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ARM as a serious alternative to x86 has only been a thing for about three years now. And even then on mobile devices. There's some bleeding edge commercial products that run ARM at the enterprise server level, but x86 on ARM isn't really to the point where there's a market for that yet.
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Aug 31, 2015 03:21
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Honestly if ARM reaches the point where x86 emulation on it can be handled at like ~70% of the speed of contemporary actual x86 chips of the time, we're looking at such a powerful ARM chip that people will be rushing to port poo poo.
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Aug 31, 2015 03:25
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Further googling yields a commercial product called Eltechs ExaGear Desktop which claims "up to 80% of native ARM application performance. Running x86 applications on ARM delivers close to native run" on ARMv7 They have RPi and RPi2 Debian images ready to purchase for $20 and $25 respectively http://eltechs.com/product/exagear-desktop/ http://eltechs.com/product/exagear-desktop/exagear-desktop-features-and-prices/ Huh and also Cubieboard, ODROID, Banana Pi
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Aug 31, 2015 04:03
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Hadlock posted:Further googling yields a commercial product called Eltechs ExaGear Desktop which claims "up to 80% of native ARM application performance. Running x86 applications on ARM delivers close to native run" on ARMv7 80% of native ARM performance is currently something like 30% of contemporary actual x86 performance on high end arm chipsets, and likely as low as 5% on a pi 2. A pi 1 would perform like a Pentium II.
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Aug 31, 2015 04:13
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Nintendo Kid posted:80% of native ARM performance is currently something like 30% of contemporary actual x86 performance on high end arm chipsets, and likely as low as 5% on a pi 2. A pi 1 would perform like a Pentium II. ARM is incredibly slow to begin with and the emulation process is going to add an incredible amount of overhead. I think even these numbers are probably unrealistically high. Realistically there's no way you're going to get an x86 Windows desktop to emulate on an ARM smartphone processor. Even if there's no showstopping QEMU bugs it'll probably take like a half hour to boot to desktop. "Pentium II" may well be generous. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 04:52 on Aug 31, 2015 |
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Aug 31, 2015 04:44
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I didn't even think about the Pi being ARM based.  I'll just use it for RetroPie and call it good.What are good x86 alternatives that are cheap, fanless, and power efficient? I want to just leave this thing on all the time.
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Aug 31, 2015 05:15
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IuniusBrutus posted:What are good x86 alternatives that are cheap, fanless, and power efficient? I want to just leave this thing on all the time. Something based on a N2807/N2808 or a 2957U. You can find the gen-1 ECS Liva mini-PCs for $80-90 or a Zotac ZBOX BI320 for $160 every now and then.
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Aug 31, 2015 05:19
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You can get an Asus X205 laptop for about $150 and it even comes with a copy of windows, probably idles at 8W or so. It technically has a fan but you'll never hear it. It's basically a chromebook with windows 8.1 shoehorned in to it.
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Aug 31, 2015 05:43
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Hadlock posted:You can get an Asus X205 laptop for about $150 and it even comes with a copy of windows, probably idles at 8W or so. It technically has a fan but you'll never hear it. It's basically a chromebook with windows 8.1 shoehorned in to it. On the other hand, it's only got 13GB free space out of the box (32GB total, same as the Liva), and no ethernet. If you can live with those limitations, it seems like a pretty good deal and includes licenses for Windows and Office. e: My ZBOX came with a 64GB eMMC for $160 but it looks like that was a historic low price and they haven't dipped that low in a couple months. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 07:29 on Aug 31, 2015 |
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Aug 31, 2015 07:24
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Yeah there's not a lot of high speed storage on that thing. Gotta save money somewhere. I just bought a USB 3.0 16GB SanDisk CZ43 with 103MB/S read speed (103MB/s tested, 130MB/s advertised) for $8.50 shipped off amazon, so that's a thing now. It's about as fast as the hard drives in my various laptops. It comes in 32 and 64gb flavors with a linear price multiplier. If you're willing to accept slower performance you could always toss a spare 8GB micro SD card (or whatever size) in the SD slot.
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Sep 1, 2015 02:57
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Paul MaudDib posted:Something based on a N2807/N2808 or a 2957U. You can find the gen-1 ECS Liva mini-PCs for $80-90 or a Zotac ZBOX BI320 for $160 every now and then. I just snagged a Liva for $80 and like it a lot. Installing Ubuntu on it was really easy too, and everything seems to work out of the box with Ubuntu except the wifi card. I still like my Pi but the Liva is taking over all the server stuff. The one downside is the Liva won't boot Ubuntu headless. You have to have it plugged into a monitor or use a VGA dummy plug.
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Sep 1, 2015 03:23
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Naffer posted:I just snagged a Liva for $80 and like it a lot. Installing Ubuntu on it was really easy too, and everything seems to work out of the box with Ubuntu except the wifi card. I still like my Pi but the Liva is taking over all the server stuff. The one downside is the Liva won't boot Ubuntu headless. You have to have it plugged into a monitor or use a VGA dummy plug. How is the eMMC storage in there? Assuming day and night faster than an SD card, but slower than an SSD?
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Sep 1, 2015 15:06
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I bought a pi 2 to gently caress around with but after seeing the retro pie stuff im going to stick it in a psx casing and go play crash bandicoot. thanks thread
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Sep 2, 2015 07:22
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Moey posted:How is the eMMC storage in there? Assuming day and night faster than an SD card, but slower than an SSD? I haven't been using it for long but it seems to perform a lot better than the SD-card sporting ARM Linux PC I was using before. code:
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Sep 5, 2015 19:51
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I guess AliExpress is selling a stripper model of the quad core Orange Pi for $18.53 shipped to the USA http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Oran...44_5%2C201409_4 http://hackaday.com/2015/09/05/orange-is-the-new-15-pi/ Doesn't have built in WiFi and no SATA port, it also has only three USB ports, but it does have 4 cores and 1GB SDRAM, and the standard Pi 40 pin header, and runs stock Raspbian sd card images.  The biggest issue I have with it is that two of the holes it doesn't use the standard mounting holes that the A+ and B+ use - which means you will have to fab up 2 new mounts for whatever you bolt it to. At $18.50 that's still cheaper than an A+ which only has one USB port (33% as much) and 256mb ram (25% as much) I would love to see an A++ with wifi onboard, quad core cpu and 1gb ram but this Orange Pi will suffice I guess. Ordered one to play around with. Hadlock fucked around with this message at 08:59 on Sep 6, 2015 |
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Sep 6, 2015 08:54
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Hadlock posted:I guess AliExpress is selling a stripper model of the quad core Orange Pi for $18.53 shipped to the USA Although it has an Allwinner CPU, who apparently routinely violate the GPL. That said, they're super duper cheap. My problem now is I need a real project - I bought one RPi2 as a OpenELEC client on a whim a few months ago, which worked great. I then bought a second, which I set up as a fantastic torrent/VPN client so I can turn off my laptop at night. Now I bought a third one (since the others were in use) with the intention of "doing a project", but can't think of anything worth doing. Looking around online it seems most people use them for: - Torrents and VPN (already have one Pi2 doing this) - Kodi media client (see above) - Retropie (tried this, not easy to dual boot with OpenELEC and performance was balls so I gave up on it) - NAS (have a real NAS, plus the Pi is crappy for network throughput) - Owncloud (see NAS) All the hobby projects are crap like automatic cat feeders or making unwieldy "portable" retro gaming handhelds. What projects are people doing with them that are actually useful and not just a gimmick?
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Sep 6, 2015 10:12
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EpicCodeMonkey posted:My problem now is I need a real project - Looking around online it seems most people use them for: Yeah Allwinner products are in everything that costs less than $60 these days. Fact of life unfortunately. With the exception of Retropie and Kodi (FireTV is substancially better for the latter, and I think it has an emulator plugin for ARM now too) I run all these web based apps on VMs on my home server which idles at just a couple of watts and the whole thing has redundant storage and isn't dependent on comparatively fragile SD cards. I'm using my A+ as the brain for my robots. But with a single core + single USB I'm rapidly outstripping it's capabilities as getting 360x240 grayscale video back from opencv over xwindows using SSH is like 1 frame every 4 seconds with a 10 second lag. Apparently the Pi 2 will do 32fps in color. It's also talking to the motor controller via software PWM and the PS3 controller via BT dongle. You can see the pi logo above the volt meter in the second photo   I've realized I'm adding more functionality than will fit on this chassis so as soon as I get things settled I'm going to have to upgrade to a larger Roomba sized chassis. I think the number of products you can build with a Pi that isn't already being worked on and brought to market by professionals is getting vanishingly small. As soon as some clever idea hits slashdot, there's a team of chinese product guys cranking out V2.0 as a packaged product. Hadlock fucked around with this message at 10:40 on Sep 6, 2015 |
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Sep 6, 2015 10:35
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EpicCodeMonkey posted:My problem now is I need a real project I think if I had the knowhow and time I'd do something like the audiobook box this one guy did for his grandmother. It was a box with a button and a speaker. You press the button, and it picks up where the audiobook last left off. When done, it'd read another. I'd make something like that as a smart podcast player/table radio, just hit the button and it goes. Audiobooks I'd just want to constantly skip back 30 seconds to re-hear what I'd missed. However, I do have a $25 radio that does a pretty good job of this already. The other thing that takes too much effort for me (and I don't really really need it) is an information display. My cell already does this, but it's an iPhone 4 and it's really slow (and frankly sucks at playing podcasts too). Also for some reason I'm tickled by the idea of running a BBS on a Pi.
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Sep 6, 2015 19:09
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doctorfrog posted:Also for some reason I'm tickled by the idea of running a BBS on a Pi. I live a two blocks or so from a major bar district I desperately want to write a bare-bones BBS for the ESP8266 that runs as a wifi access point that just directs you to the BBS, wire it together with a lipo battery charger + battery, connect it all together and then fuse the whole thing together in a big blob of epoxy, then glue the whole contraption to the back side of a street sign(post?) with a solar panel facing south and name the AP [BARDISTRICTNAME]WALL. The battery would run down by 2am but all the bars here close then anyways. Ideally it would read/write the wall data from an old 1 or 2GB SD card in I2C mode. I guess really what I want to do is throw up a bunch of solar/low power guerrilla community wifi message boards in high density areas, epoxying them to walls and poo poo  ESP8266 for size. They run between $4 and $12 depending on how many GPIO are exposed, wifi antenna is included 
Hadlock fucked around with this message at 20:42 on Sep 6, 2015 |
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Sep 6, 2015 20:38
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Hey man, the PirateBox is what made me consider the Pi in the first place, I wanted something a little more powerful than a pocket router to play with.
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Sep 7, 2015 05:51
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Working on my MotionPie IR camera has been fun, but one of the issues I have when trying to make a waterproof casing for it is that I get significant glare from the IR lights and it makes it impossible for the camera to see through the glass. The anti-glare plastic available at Home Depot isn't transparent enough for the camera to get a decent resolution. Anyone have any success with any cheap solutions? Searching for IR-transparent plastic online only yields results for the blacked-out versions used for remote controls. I'm so close to finishing this project but this problem can potentially be a project-killer.
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Sep 8, 2015 00:03
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Are you doing underwater ops with this IR camera? I think water has a pretty high absorption rate of IR. You want to do visible-transparent AND IR transparent? What about getting a traditional $10 72mm or 40.5mm UV glass lens filter, cutting a hole in your plexiglass box, and then affixing the filter to the box with 3M faucet/bathroom sealant? This one is $27 but it's "Weather Sealed". I guess for good measure you could smush silicone sealant over the seam for good measure.
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Sep 8, 2015 00:42
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Hadlock posted:Are you doing underwater ops with this IR camera? I think water has a pretty high absorption rate of IR. I'm doing outdoor surveillance with the camera. I intend to use an outdoor electrical outlet box to contain the Pi and camera assembly and affix the "window" to the case with silicone aquarium sealer. I know there's IR and visible transparent material out there since most off-the-shelf security cameras have it, but damned if I can find something clearly labeled. Using a camera lens filter might actually work! I'm going to take one off my Nikon lens and see if it's effective. Edit: The UV lens works! Now, I need to find a UV filter that is large enough to fit the rectangular hole. Do you think the UV protection is enabling the non-reflectiveness of it? I'd love to find a rectangular piece of glass to cover up the opening. durtan fucked around with this message at 02:05 on Sep 8, 2015 |
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Sep 8, 2015 01:38
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durtan posted:Working on my MotionPie IR camera has been fun, but one of the issues I have when trying to make a waterproof casing for it is that I get significant glare from the IR lights and it makes it impossible for the camera to see through the glass. The anti-glare plastic available at Home Depot isn't transparent enough for the camera to get a decent resolution. Anyone have any success with any cheap solutions? Searching for IR-transparent plastic online only yields results for the blacked-out versions used for remote controls. I'm so close to finishing this project but this problem can potentially be a project-killer. So basically you're making an IR illuminator? In terms of glare, you probably want the illuminators to be well-shrouded - either behind the sensor with the sensor having a length of tubing in front of it to prevent it from picking up flare, or significantly off-axis. Look at how diving substrobes are set up relative to the lens port. I think you're going to be hosed though. It's not just a matter of absorption, water actually scatters long wavelengths of light. That's why water looks blue when you're diving - the red light is scattered but the blue is not, so all that's left is the blue light. IR is longer than visible light, so it will be scattered more (think of it like trying to shoot a flash through mud). On the flip side, have you tried UV imaging? You can still get UV LEDs for illumination. It takes special equipment to do - you really want something made entirely of quartz or fluorite. It gets even more hideously expensive if you're going to attempt to focus this with visible light - you need a lens that focuses everything from UV to visible, if not all the way to IR depending on if your sensor has an IR-cut filter (most sensors do, by default, an IR camera will not). Pentax made a few but they're collectors items (Ultra-Achromatic Takumar), a modern lens is the Coastal UV-VL-IR 60mm. Then you put it in a dive housing-ish thing with a port. God help you if you flood. Really though I think you need to be looking at either an underwater-hotlight or an underwater-substrobe setup depending on what you're trying to do. These problems have been pretty thoroughly explored in underwater photography and you're not going to MacGuyver something better. The best answer for visible imaging is a dive housing with a Nikonos-V mount bulkhead - these have water-contact optics which will outperform anything else. Nauticam makes these for the Sony NEX and A7, which can dump HD video or stills. You either need to dump a chunk of change on the housing and camera and give up live video from the primary camera (you can still run a cheaper secondary for live guidance) or MacGuyver a dive housing yourself. Again, god help you if it floods. e: Oh, you replied that this isn't underwater. Welp
Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 02:12 on Sep 8, 2015 |
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Sep 8, 2015 02:02
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