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You're stupid for thinking about an element, and you need to buy it because I love them for some reason.
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Sep 6, 2015 02:31
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This is going to sound strange but I used to be an ECU diagnostic engineer for Chrysler and I was used to just plugging an OBD2 tool in and using a proprietary software package to just do whatever I wanted to ECUs. I don't have access to any of that anymore but I want to buy a car with a dead (or hosed with) dash ODO and I want to plug in and read the miles / time on from the BCM. How does a regular person with regular access do anything like this? I guess I want to know what tools and software people like to use for reading or talking to ECUs. I'm not looking for a error code reader and i'm familiar with J2534 but I'm not trying to flash or tune anything at this point. tia
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Sep 6, 2015 04:20
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Well, naming the car in question is the first step. There isn't a ton of widespread information on what you're looking for but information exists for certain cars.
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Sep 6, 2015 06:59
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Shere posted:So the driver's power window just stopped working in my '06 Forester. For the past month or so it has been "laggy", as in I would press the button and after a delay of some seconds it would then do it's thing and roll all the way down since it's one of those automatic windows. As of yesterday it doesn't work at all. Does this sound symptomatic of an issue with the switch or the motor? How simple would it be to fix either of those things myself? I have seen four subbie windows stop working and they were all motors. Its an easy check just pull voltage at the motor connector if you have voltage at the connector its the motor, if not your problem is elsewhere.
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Sep 6, 2015 16:12
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Replaced the second row bucket seats in my girlfriends 2004 Rendezvous with a bench seat from an Aztec for the extra seating capacity (buckets seated two, bench three). The seat only has a lap belt, since the other half was built into the roof. Is it technically illegal to not install the shoulder strap? It would require replacing the entire ceiling liner.
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Sep 6, 2015 20:10
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Depends on the state.. it's hard to say since it's not OE on the car.. but if it had a shoulder belt from the factory if it was optioned with bench, it should have a shoulder belt. Is it legal only your state can judge but probably not. Is it safe? Probably not. Lap belts aren't that great and is why 2nd and 3rd row seats have shoulder belts. Edit:words and second row tater_salad fucked around with this message at 22:35 on Sep 6, 2015 |
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Sep 6, 2015 22:31
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two_beer_bishes posted:98 Civic EX. I've replaced the front rotors twice over the last year, it is driven 110 miles a day and it's driven pretty hard (long island/nyc). The first time was because it was due for new brakes, then a few months ago if started vibrating like crazy when braking above 65mph so I got new rotors from advance auto. Now it's doing the same thing, and I think it's lovely rotors but I'm not sure (wearever brand). Most of my problems with this car have revolved around non-honda parts so I'm looking at oem rotors at $65 each. I've used raybestos in the past with good results so at $20 that might be worth a shot. Aside from the rotors what else could be causing this? New shocks went on last year but I'm not sure if the control arms have been touched. Update: Centric calipers and rotors with akebono pads are awesome as poo poo! Thanks for all the advice, I'm very happy with these parts and not paying OEM prices! Tuesday I'll tackle the rear drums just because there's nothing in our service records indicating they've been done in the last 255k miles
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Sep 7, 2015 00:46
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on a scale of 1 to 10 how stupid of an idea would it be to buy an 88 bronco with the following problems - engine needs to be warmed up for five minutes or it sputters and dies - basically everything has been gutted or fallen off inside - a number of "interesting" electrical issues for like $800? also include on a 1 to 10 scale how rad it would be to drive an 88 bronco tia
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Sep 7, 2015 01:52
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two_beer_bishes posted:Update: Centric calipers and rotors with akebono pads are awesome as poo poo! Thanks for all the advice, I'm very happy with these parts and not paying OEM prices! Tuesday I'll tackle the rear drums just because there's nothing in our service records indicating they've been done in the last 255k miles Nice! My akebono ceramics/centric blanks have been baller as hell too.
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Sep 7, 2015 01:57
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Is there any downside/danger to starting a dyno pull at like 1500rpm, or do people not do it simply because the results suck?
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Sep 7, 2015 06:14
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Most likely the points of interest (namely peak torque, peak HP, and what it does at the very top end) just very rarely occur down that low, so there's no point to starting that low and making the run take longer.
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Sep 7, 2015 06:18
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Billy Bob FORTRAN posted:on a scale of 1 to 10 how stupid of an idea would it be to buy an 88 bronco with the following problems The warming up issue is likely going to be either the FITV (fast idle thermo valve) if it has one, or something electrical. If I remember right, all 1988 model year Broncos had moved to fuel injection. Gutted? Run away. Tracking down interior parts isn't the most difficult task, but you're going to spend a lot of money if you want a full interior, and doing a lot of searching. Most 87-91 F-150 interior and front clip stuff will fit, if it's forward of the B pillar (B pillar being the pillar that your front door latches attach to, same with the seat belt). What kind of electrical issues? I mean, I'd probably buy it for a bit less since I love Broncos, but I'm also pretty good at electrical stuff in general, so the electrical issues wouldn't bother me much - but that's probably where you'll be spending most of your time. It could range from just fixing a few previous owner "fixes" to rewiring the entire truck from scratch. And given its age, you'd be wise to assume the whole thing needs rewiring (there's some companies that sell complete wiring harnesses though). ilkhan posted:Is there any downside/danger to starting a dyno pull at like 1500rpm, or do people not do it simply because the results suck? The biggest issue is dyno pulls need to be done in whatever gear is closest to a 1:1 ratio. This is usually 3rd or 4th gear, and you have to "drive" up to that gear instead of just launching in 4th. I mean, if you have an engine that puts out enough low RPM torque to do a low RPM launch in 4th (and get the dyno spinning - and really, really abuse your clutch), then go for it, but most 4/6 cylinders don't. If it's automatic, I got nothin, as my only dyno experience is with manuals.
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Sep 7, 2015 07:27
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Recently came into possession of a 1996 Bronco. It is my daily driver and once i get back down to the lower 48 and no longer need an unstoppable hunk of steel that can drive over anything will be getting a car. Looking for a good way to modernize the dash and get some more detail from the engine. Think its OBD2. Shipboard diesel mechanic by trade so have decent tool knowledge and know how to use electrical meters and such but not a lot of car knowledge.
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Sep 7, 2015 13:15
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Should be OBD-II. The connector should be under the glove box, toward the left. Weird spot. I like Torque Pro and an ELM 327 wifi dongle. You can get the Bluetooth version if you use android though (not IOS). You have to spend a lot more money to get a scanner that'll show you as much computer data as torque. Edit: you've got three engine options. The 300 I-6 should be easy to identify on sight. If it's a V8, you've got a 302 or a 351 Windsor. Both look really similar and are 90 degree engines, but since the 351 is taller, the intake manifold is about 2" wider than the 302's. Break out a ruler and see if it's 11" across (351) or about 9 (302). Godholio fucked around with this message at 14:28 on Sep 7, 2015 |
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Sep 7, 2015 14:23
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Here's a question I wasn't expecting to ask today: what fell off my car and how badly do I need to get it fixed? ('99 Camry) Is it just a heat shield?
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Sep 7, 2015 15:28
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tzirean posted:Here's a question I wasn't expecting to ask today: what fell off my car and how badly do I need to get it fixed? ('99 Camry) Heat shield, you're fine
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Sep 7, 2015 15:32
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8ender posted:Heat shield, you're fine Thank you!
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Sep 7, 2015 16:01
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I'm attempting to remove the rear diff fill bolt on a 98 4Runner to check the oil level. I'm using a correct size six sided socket, soaked it in PB, smacked it, and tried my damnedest with a 18" breaker. All I'm doing is starting to strip the poo poo soft metal and tiny height this bolt has. Would the next best step be to buy a butane torch and a fire extinguisher? I don't have any impact tools where I'm at now. Edit: Got it! I guess the last round of blaster finally got in there deep enough. PirateDentist fucked around with this message at 20:21 on Sep 7, 2015 |
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Sep 7, 2015 18:45
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PirateDentist posted:Would the next best step be to buy a butane torch and a fire extinguisher? For future reference, yes. You'd be surprised how much difference getting a stubborn bolt/nut red hot can make. Heat also helps pull your penetrating lubricant deep into the threads.
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Sep 7, 2015 20:51
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I'm going to get a stick for my next car after ~10 years of driving automatic. Exactly how many times am I going to die?
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Sep 8, 2015 01:50
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Once. (just learn to get moving in first without touching the gas at first, the rest will fall into place very quickly.)
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Sep 8, 2015 01:55
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I'm honestly not that worried. Going with a Honda Fit EX. Downshifting sounds confusing but I'm generally good with soft touch things so I'm not worried about the pedalwork. My house is only ~5 minutes from work and there are giant empty parking lots everywhere. I'll have plenty of space to learn.
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Sep 8, 2015 02:42
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You don't even need to worry about downshifting unless you've slowed down a bit and need to accelerate again, or you need to pass someone, or you need to accelerate in a hurry. You'll eventually learn what gears are good for various speeds. It's almost always safe to drop down one gear (don't ever drop into 1st unless the car is stopped or barely moving - you can rev match to drop into 1st safely at up to about 10 mph, but unless you do it perfect it's hard on the clutch and engine/trans mounts), and often safe to drop down two gears, occasionally safe to drop down three gears. After a couple of weeks, maybe a month, you'll know what gear is appropriate for most scenarios. And this knowledge will transfer to most other cars, though the RPM ranges will be different depending on the car and engine. For example, you pretty much never want to drop into 2nd gear at 60 mph on any car, unless it's something with an engine that's built to take those kind of RPMs, or your brakes have failed and you need to slow the gently caress down right now to avoid the crowd of children in front of you. I know my car can hit ~55-60 in 2nd before hitting the rev limiter, but just because it can doesn't mean it's a good idea. It'll also do 85 in 3rd. But just because it can doesn't mean it's a good idea - it falls flat on its face past about 5500 RPM or so, and I once learned a very expensive lesson about what happens when you think you've shifted from 5th to 4th, but in reality you hit 2nd, and the engine is now spinning fast enough that the tach has wrapped all the way back around to 0 and the engine is telling knock knock jokes. Don't downshift to slow down as a habit, it wears out your clutch a lot quicker (and brake pads are a lot cheaper than a clutch - in parts, and especially labor). I'll downshift to slow down if I'm going down a hill (and even then it's to control speed, not to brake - I'll still have to stab the brakes occasionally), otherwise I just use the brakes. Occasionally I'll drop down a gear to slow down, but I try to rev match when I do so (rev matching in the most basic terms is stepping on the clutch, shifting into the gear you want, blipping the throttle, then letting the clutch out at about where the RPMs should be for that gear+speed combo). Don't even try to figure that out until you have the basics down, but it's easy once you know the car. tl;dr: getting the car moving is the hard part (especially in reverse), you'll figure out the rest after driving awhile. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 04:20 on Sep 8, 2015 |
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Sep 8, 2015 04:12
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getting single pop/tap noise when i accelerate form a dead stop and also when i brake. it sounds like maybe some bushing or elbow might be all dired/worn out. noise is coming from the passenger side wheel well. It's a AWD, lancer evolution. I've taken the drat suspension assembly apart and put it back together, but i can not for the life of my find a culprit. anyone encounter something like this before? is there a usual suspect?
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Sep 8, 2015 04:29
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Eifert Posting posted:I'm going to get a stick for my next car after ~10 years of driving automatic. Exactly how many times am I going to die? Did you drive a stick before the automatic that lasted 10 years or will this be your first manual ever? If it's the former driving stick is like riding a bike, you'll be a bit rusty at first but everything will come back to you. The former, really no worse off than anyone else who learned on an automatic and switched over later.
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Sep 8, 2015 04:42
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ROFLburger posted:getting single pop/tap noise when i accelerate form a dead stop and also when i brake. it sounds like maybe some bushing or elbow might be all dired/worn out. Seems like it might be a fairly common mystery noise for that vehicle.
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Sep 8, 2015 04:52
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ROFLburger posted:getting single pop/tap noise when i accelerate form a dead stop and also when i brake. it sounds like maybe some bushing or elbow might be all dired/worn out. I would have said suspension but if you're sure it's okay (strut mounts for sure okay?) then here's a few other ideas: - Loose bolts on the subframe - Play in the CV joint - You had the suspension apart so I assume brakes were part of that but just to be sure check for a loose bolt on the caliper/mount
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Sep 8, 2015 04:55
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Two Finger posted:I own a 1992 U13 Nissan Bluebird SSS with an SR20DE. She's had a couple of minor issues including the common cam squirter issue, which I removed the valve cover and corrected, and an ignition issue that was solved with new leads. Now, and it could be my imagination, but she seems a little down on power. I opened the oil filler cap while it was running the other day and there's a pretty substantial amount of pressure coming out, which seems to be in time with the engine's running - seems to be pulses rather than a constant stream. I have just finished checking the PCV valve - because I'm unable to find anything better to do with it I sucked on it and got flow, and when blowing through it it held nicely and allowed no air to escape. I pulled off the air filter housing to check for oil there, and while there is a smell of oil on the filter there is no visual evidence of oil being dumped into the intake. This leads me to suspect either rings or valves. My thoughts with rings is that, if that is the case, the oil would become very dirty very quickly and most likely smell of combustion byproducts. So I guess that leaves a bent valve? I note that the engine is consuming NO oil. I have been monitoring it closely for the last couple of weeks and have noted absolutely no abnormal oil usage. Is it possible that the PCV valve is simply not passing as much as it should be, causing the excessive pressure? Any thoughts?
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Sep 8, 2015 10:23
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some texas redneck posted:Downshifting advice. I usually downshift from 6th to 3rd gear for any braking above 40mph and leave it in 3rd until I come to a stop. For my particular car, this keeps revs at least 2k below redline at all times given local speed limits. 40mph and below I decelerate in 2nd gear. I like being in gear in case traffic clears sooner than expected, or the light turns green. If something catches me by surprise and I need to stop quickly, of course I don't worry about shifting and I just brake and go into neutral sometime before I start lugging. If you rev match I didn't think it causes any problems. Do a lot of folks brake in neutral as a matter of standard practice? The Ferret King fucked around with this message at 14:33 on Sep 8, 2015 |
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Sep 8, 2015 14:28
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Still no opinions on the GM 4.3L V6 vs the 4.2L I6? Everything I've found says the V6 is indestructible but I can't find much on the I6.
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Sep 8, 2015 15:52
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CornHolio posted:Still no opinions on the GM 4.3L V6 vs the 4.2L I6? The atlas (I6) is pretty stout, IIRC. The envoys I drove were comparatively "peppy" for their size.
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Sep 8, 2015 16:40
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Just got a report back on my 2010 TSX 4cyl 5spd automatic from the Acura service techs at the dealership and they say the 2nd gear may have failed internally and recommend replacing the transmission. They of course did a multi-point inspection recommending this or that be replaced/flushed/repaired which totals to well north of $5,000, most of which I'm fairly sure isn't imperative, so of course I'm focusing on the transmission, which looks as though may cost almost $2,000 to replace, and is the reason I took the car there in the first place. So is it right for me to ignore the other stuff for now? And does a transmission replacement on an Acura sound warranted at all, and if so, is the price going to vary at all if I have it done at some other mechanic shop? I mean, it's already at the dealership and they gave me a loaner (a TLX, which, dammit, dealership, you know how awesome this car is and I hate I can't afford it), so I'm really inclined to let them just do the work because it seems silly to take it somewhere else. I'm just worried about the price and whether or not I'm getting overcharged or whether it would be cheaper to have them drop and fix the transmission instead of a complete replacement. My car isn't under warranty.
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Sep 8, 2015 17:29
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What other repairs and services did they recommend? $2k sounds cheap for a transmission from the dealer.
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Sep 8, 2015 17:42
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rdb posted:What other repairs and services did they recommend? $2k sounds cheap for a transmission from the dealer. Valve adjustment (whatever that means, $429), lower control arm bushings torn ($717), xmsn flush ($329?!?!?!) and replace water pump ($795). Plus other various things. Most of these things are "recommended" services done at such and such mileage, which they are just default putting on there becaue my TSX is at 92k miles. The grand total for that and other recommended mileage is $5k and some change, and I really am only concerned about the transmission. e: Report emailed to me says, "Transmission 2nd gear might have internal failure. Replace transmission (fluid is very dark)." life is killing me fucked around with this message at 17:52 on Sep 8, 2015 |
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Sep 8, 2015 17:50
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Transmission flush looks odd considering they are replacing the transmission. I can understand wanting all the old fluid out but I doubt the car has an external cooler. Honestly, the word "might" bothers me and you "might" want a second opinion. Ask the dealer if they found bits and pieces in the transmission pan, or if they even removed it. If they can't answer that I would drag it to a transmission specialist. This isnt the same hondamatic from the early 2000s that's known for failures, or is it?
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Sep 8, 2015 18:11
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life is killing me posted:Valve adjustment (whatever that means, $429), lower control arm bushings torn ($717), xmsn flush ($329?!?!?!) and replace water pump ($795). Plus other various things. Most of these things are "recommended" services done at such and such mileage, which they are just default putting on there becaue my TSX is at 92k miles. The grand total for that and other recommended mileage is $5k and some change, and I really am only concerned about the transmission. Valve adjustment...meh, nice to do, not critical right now. the control arm stuff, I tend to be conservative as it is more of a safety concern if it fails but that price seems a little high and probably could be done elsewhere for cheaper. The flush, if you're going to replace the trans, is complete overkill. Waterpump, eh, you probably have time, but are indeed coming up on the window to start considering a replacement. Given what you say as to how they're recommending this - strictly as a your car is at X-mileage, we recommend Y-services, nothing to be greatly concerned about, but at a dealer, you gotta pay to play. Most of these should be simple enough that an independent shop could knock them out for a little cheaper, or maybe you can get the dealer to work with you on price since you're looking to drop $$$ on a trans.
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Sep 8, 2015 18:15
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rdb posted:Transmission flush looks odd considering they are replacing the transmission. I can understand wanting all the old fluid out but I doubt the car has an external cooler. ssjonizuka posted:Valve adjustment...meh, nice to do, not critical right now. the control arm stuff, I tend to be conservative as it is more of a safety concern if it fails but that price seems a little high and probably could be done elsewhere for cheaper. The flush, if you're going to replace the trans, is complete overkill. Waterpump, eh, you probably have time, but are indeed coming up on the window to start considering a replacement. Not the same trans that I'm aware of. Could be, though? Never heard of this from any TSX owners. I do (gulp) read (not post) on two TSX enthusiast sites that don't mention this as a large problem common to these transmissions. The flush sounded odd to me as well, I'm not paying for a flush if they are going to replace the transmission as a flush on the old one is completely unnecessary since I won't have the old one anymore. The new one should be filled with new transmission fluid and shouldn't need a flush (although, being a rotary wing aircraft guy, I have commonly installed new transmissions and immediately flushed quarts and quarts of oil through brand new ones, but my car is not a helicopter). They haven't done anything yet because I haven't told them how to proceed. Naturally if I don't need a whole new transmission, I don't want to pay to have the transmission replaced, but automatics are apparently way more complicated than manuals. And yes, the MIGHT part bothers me, and I have a suspicion they haven't fully diagnosed the transmission yet, or simply can't without dropping it, a task I have yet to tell them to do. As far as the water pump, yeah it's probably the thing I'd do the soonest anyway right after the transmission. I have a mechanic I would rather take the car to for the smaller stuff like the control arm bushings and water pump. But it sounds like it's staying at the dealer since I have the loaner and I gotta get the trans fixed before I can drive it to another mechanic. Don't want to have it towed.
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Sep 8, 2015 18:26
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Can I put 205/55R16 snow tires on a car that has 205/50R17 tires on there now? I'm 99.9% sure the answer is 'yes', but all my other snows have been identically sized, so I just want to make sure 
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Sep 8, 2015 18:31
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Do your symptoms match up with a failed 3rd gear pressure switch? Honestly, I would try a pressure switch and changing the transmission oil before I let someone sell me a new transmission because the fluid looked bad. rdb fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Sep 8, 2015 |
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Sep 8, 2015 18:36
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so loving future posted:Can I put 205/55R16 snow tires on a car that has 205/50R17 tires on there now? I'm 99.9% sure the answer is 'yes', but all my other snows have been identically sized, so I just want to make sure No, the R16 and R17 designates rim size. You will need new rims, and need to verify they clear the brakes etc.
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Sep 8, 2015 18:40
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