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rdb posted:No, the R16 and R17 designates rim size. You will need new rims, and need to verify they clear the brakes etc. Yeah, I know they need different wheels. The snows are on steel wheels.
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Sep 8, 2015 18:41
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rdb posted:Do your symptoms match up with a failed 3rd gear pressure switch? They want to do 3 flushes in succession because their guy thinks that could fix the problem. If it doesn't, though, I'm out almost $400 for a car we may not end up even fixing in the event it needs a new transmission, because ~$6000 for new transmission + $2000 labor and taxes and all that poo poo = Probably close to $10k, money we don't have just lying around. In other words, if it comes down to a new transmission, not sure it's worth fixing versus just selling the car back to them and buying a new vehicle.
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Sep 8, 2015 18:50
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So your options are get hosed by the dealer without knowing if they are actually loving you, or getting a rental and paying 100 bucks to get your car towed to someone you trust.
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Sep 8, 2015 18:55
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All cars need maintenance at some point. If you do trade it in on something at least do a CPO Lexus ES because its just a Camry underneath, and it sounds like you are reluctant to fix things.
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Sep 8, 2015 19:01
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rdb posted:All cars need maintenance at some point. If you do trade it in on something at least do a CPO Lexus ES because its just a Camry underneath, and it sounds like you are reluctant to fix things. I'm not reluctant to fix things, I'm reluctant to spend $10k to fix things because I'd have to take out a loan to afford it. If a flush fixes it, great, it's already there at the dealership. This versus the logistics of having it towed to another mechanic still not knowing the problem and still have one of two possible results, so then be out the same amount of money plus towing and rental. I have the car regularly maintained, oil changed, brakes serviced, I keep it clean inside and out. I don't treat this car like poo poo.
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Sep 8, 2015 19:12
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That doesn't necessarily matter, your car's reaching the age where major repairs start showing up. You'll have to start paying more in maintenance, but on the whole it'll still be less than a car payment. Even if you do trade in and get a camry or whatever, you'll still have to maintain it, and it'll be a fair bit more boring than your current car (I assume you do in fact like it, yes?); whether that's a tradeoff worth making is entirely up to you. The cheapest option really is to tow it to a shop you trust and get a second opinion.
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Sep 8, 2015 19:21
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Enourmo posted:That doesn't necessarily matter, your car's reaching the age where major repairs start showing up. You'll have to start paying more in maintenance, but on the whole it'll still be less than a car payment. Even if you do trade in and get a camry or whatever, you'll still have to maintain it, and it'll be a fair bit more boring than your current car (I assume you do in fact like it, yes?); whether that's a tradeoff worth making is entirely up to you. I like it and don't want a Camry or whatever else. I want the car I have and I wanted to drive it until it couldn't drive anymore while having it maintained to get it past 200k miles. I do put a lot of miles on it anyway because I drive it for work and could write off the cost, but I don't currently have a large amount of money to spend on having a major problem fixed. Though I will probably have the smaller things fixed within the next few months if the flushes will take care of the transmission problem. But if it doesn't, I owe more on the car than I can probably get for it from the dealership, even if the transmission was fine, so a new car will still be a hella expensive option when I have to pay the difference just to get financing for a new car.
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Sep 8, 2015 19:28
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life is killing me posted:I like it and don't want a Camry or whatever else. I want the car I have and I wanted to drive it until it couldn't drive anymore while having it maintained to get it past 200k miles. I just wanted to point out how apt your username is.
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Sep 8, 2015 19:40
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Two Finger posted:Any thoughts? Two Finger posted:Any advice anyone can give me would be very welcome - I guess the obvious answer is to do a compression check and perhaps leakdown? You pretty much answered your own question. Worth cleaning out the throttlebody too, they always gunk up like crazy.
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Sep 8, 2015 20:01
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life is killing me posted:They want to do 3 flushes in succession because their guy thinks that could fix the problem. If it doesn't, though, I'm out almost $400 for a car we may not end up even fixing in the event it needs a new transmission, because ~$6000 for new transmission + $2000 labor and taxes and all that poo poo = Probably close to $10k, money we don't have just lying around. In other words, if it comes down to a new transmission, not sure it's worth fixing versus just selling the car back to them and buying a new vehicle. For starters I'd go somewhere other than the dealer, and have them put in a used replacement transmission instead of a $6k new one (if the transmission is even bad). When the dealer wants that much cash, even paying for a tow to an independent mechanic is going to save you cash. You can get a used tranny for around $1.5k http://www.autopartsfair.com/acura-used_transmissions/tsx-2010-catalog.html?campaign=theautochannel
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Sep 8, 2015 20:10
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CornHolio posted:I just wanted to point out how apt your username is. Certainly feels that way sometimes. At any rate, taking AI's advice and having it towed to a transmission specialist shop my personal mechanic recommended (said he takes his own personal vehicles there and always has). They said they didn't feel like a flush would fix the problem based on what I told them the problem was, and the shop quoted me max $3200 on overhaul worst case for any parts they might have to order. That's if, they said, they even have to overhaul it. My insurance will cover towing. This is much more palatable so thanks for the advice and listening to me bitch, I'm going to listen to you goons.
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Sep 8, 2015 20:16
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GOON ESCAPES WELL, IS NOT PISSED ON You made the right choice.
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Sep 8, 2015 21:23
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Hello thread, I have a 2001 Corolla LE with 110k miles. Two questions (the answer to one might make the second one moot): (1) I had this car in upstate NY for a couple years -- when the temperatures would get to 20 F or below, the left-side shocks would freeze, and the ride would be super terrible. I didn't really do anything about it, people just said "oh it happens," so I took it as that. I moved to NYC and it happened a few times as well this past winter. I'm not sure if it's related, but now the car has frequent groaning sounds coming from the rear when I drive. I'd say groaning as opposed to grinding or squeaking.. if the car is parked and I try to like, push the car down to recreate the sound, it doesn't happen, but when I drive it happens pretty regularly. I really have no idea if this is just squeaky shocks/bushings (I just read this somewhere but I have no idea what this is), or if the suspension is about to fall out. The ride is groan-y but it doesn't feel any rougher or anything. Just the sound is unsettling. Thoughts on what could be wrong? (2) IF the above issue is just a minor fix, then I'd like to invest in some new tires. Nothing special or flashy, a decent (re: budget) tire that will last another 40-50k. Maybe something that did a little better in snow, as there's plenty of that these days in NYC.. whatever the Yuengling of tires is, I think that would work just fine for commuting.
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Sep 8, 2015 21:44
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life is killing me posted:Certainly feels that way sometimes. GJ dude. At the very least you saved yourself 3k and/Or didn't throw away a 5 year old TSX for pennies on the dollar.
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Sep 8, 2015 21:53
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My 07 GTI's keyfob randomly stopped working yesterday. I replaced the battery, but it's still not doing anything when I press the buttons. The LED flashes when I hit the buttons, so it seems like it's transmitting. What should I check next? Halp! It's apparently "the old style" according to this DIY video. https://youtu.be/EiK-_w8yBvw Unfortunately, I don't have a second one that I can use/test with.
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Sep 8, 2015 23:12
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so loving future posted:Can I put 205/55R16 snow tires on a car that has 205/50R17 tires on there now? I'm 99.9% sure the answer is 'yes', but all my other snows have been identically sized, so I just want to make sure If you're replacing ONLY the tires, no. If you're getting 17" wheels to replace your current 16s, yes (assuming backspacing is correct). The overall difference is less than 1%, so no worries.
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Sep 9, 2015 00:11
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Godholio posted:If you're replacing ONLY the tires, no. If you're getting 17" wheels to replace your current 16s, yes (assuming backspacing is correct). The overall difference is less than 1%, so no worries. Yeah, all 8 tires are mounted on correspondingly sized wheels  Thanks! Glad I don't have to sell and then rebuy snows.
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Sep 9, 2015 00:30
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My 4 day old car has a flat tire. I don't see any nails in it, but it's hard to get a good view. It's not a slow leak, it was at 13 psi when I started it to go to work, I pumped it up to 32psi per the door sticker, and it was at 28 psi 4 miles later (others were at 42). It was at 20 when I got home. What are the chances it's something covered by warranty? Dealer is literally across the street from work, with an America's tire next door, so that's not an issue, just checking which to go to first.
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Sep 9, 2015 01:32
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I would head to the dealer, they may fix it out of good will.
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Sep 9, 2015 01:35
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Slavvy posted:You pretty much answered your own question. 150+ on all cylinders. None higher than 170. Curiouser and curiouser...
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Sep 9, 2015 06:44
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Stretched/skipped timing chain probably.
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Sep 9, 2015 07:11
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I cleaned all the coil/boot connections on my 2004 f-150 4.6 and went totally apeshit with the dialectric grease. I put it in both ends of the boot and also in the plug that connects the coils to the wiring harness. Could this be the reason the truck is misfiring like crazy now?
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Sep 9, 2015 07:53
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Dielectric grease is non-conductive. All it does is prevent arcs in unexpected places around connections. As long as all of your connections are mechanically sound, then there should be no issue. How are your grounds?
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Sep 9, 2015 07:59
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Geirskogul posted:Dielectric grease is non-conductive. All it does is prevent arcs in unexpected places around connections. As long as all of your connections are mechanically sound, then there should be no issue. All the grounds seem solid. Spent the evening searching for a plug that I may have accidentally knocked loose or something but had no luck.
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Sep 9, 2015 08:02
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Slavvy posted:Stretched/skipped timing chain probably. it seems a little rough on idle too so that would fit the bill i guess loving huge pain in the rear end though
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Sep 9, 2015 08:13
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BobbyRhino posted:I cleaned all the coil/boot connections on my 2004 f-150 4.6 and went totally apeshit with the dialectric grease. I put it in both ends of the boot and also in the plug that connects the coils to the wiring harness. Could this be the reason the truck is misfiring like crazy now? You've filled an electrical plug with non-conductive grease. I'd want to clean that out.
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Sep 9, 2015 08:40
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spog posted:You've filled an electrical plug with non-conductive grease. I'd want to clean that out. That...isn't how things work. The grease will insulate the connection from anything else getting in there, not from itself.
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Sep 9, 2015 11:30
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Ozmiander posted:That...isn't how things work. The grease will insulate the connection from anything else getting in there, not from itself. But only because the pins scrape off a clean contact surface where they touch. If they're worn out and were already making tenuous contact, I can see grease causing additional problems.
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Sep 9, 2015 13:00
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^Yep.BobbyRhino posted:I cleaned all the coil/boot connections on my 2004 f-150 4.6 and went totally apeshit with the dialectric grease. I put it in both ends of the boot and also in the plug that connects the coils to the wiring harness. Could this be the reason the truck is misfiring like crazy now? The grease is supposed to go around the edge of the boot where it touches the ceramic. It keeps them from sticking together next time you try to remove the boots, and keeps water out. Yeah, you might have a lovely connection if you heaped it all in there. You also might not have gotten one of the boots to seat properly on the plug even if it looks like it's on all the way.
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Sep 9, 2015 15:10
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Looking for some all season tires for the rainy pacific northwest. Should any cheap tire do? Or is there something I should look for aside from the treadlife warranty.
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Sep 9, 2015 17:53
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Yes, you should be looking at how the tires preform in the dry, wet, and (if it applies) snow. You can get amazing treadlife by making a tire out of hard rubber that will slide all over the place. I dig the Continental ExtremeContact DWS for dry, rain, and light snow (I have snow tires for the winter). There's also DW tires that don't do snow if you don't have the need. They have good ratings for the price, but not the cheapest tires on the market.
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Sep 9, 2015 18:52
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It's worth pointing out that tires are the most important safety feature on a vehicle. You can have the best brakes on the market and they won't do poo poo if you can't grip the road...same for steering.
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Sep 9, 2015 19:39
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Also, unless you drive a lot, a long tread life warranty really isn't the help you think it might be. A 90,000 mile treadlife warranty tire would be (even more) rock hard and possibly starting to dry rot by the time you got close to that many miles on it if you aren't doing 20k+ per year.
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Sep 9, 2015 23:10
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Waffling between Honda Fit EX and LX (Basic), 30$ a month is the difference. I really want the better speakers and and the extra inch on the tires. 160-Watt AM/FM/CD Audio System with 4 Speakers vs 180-Watt AM/FM/CD Audio System with 6 Speakers 15 vs 16 inch wheels Does anyone have experience with the base model's speakers? Are they adequate? My wife and I set up a budget that's really aggressive for savings, so I'd be going from about 200$ a month for miscellaneous junk to 170$ which would hurt. I'll probably do it unless it's a barely noticeable difference. Eifert Posting fucked around with this message at 01:36 on Sep 10, 2015 |
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Sep 10, 2015 01:33
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2001 Chevy Silverado 1500, 5.3L V8, RWD. 4l60e trans, 125k miles.  This is the carrier bearing I believe. Why am I seeing grease here? Does the bearing need replaced? No clunks or anything I've noticed thus far. I just bought the truck and am trying to fix all the leaks and issues in hopes to have a reliable tow vehicle. Edit: also noticed some fuckery while I was under there. I believe this is something for evap. Guessing the used car dealer saw some evap codes and tried to seal it up via grease?? No idea why this would fix a potential issue, it's just globbed on there. 
Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 01:47 on Sep 10, 2015 |
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Sep 10, 2015 01:42
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Eifert Posting posted:Waffling between Honda Fit EX and LX (Basic), 30$ a month is the difference. I really want the better speakers and and the extra inch on the tires. How many months? It's about $1000 over three years or $1800 over five. If you're dead set on the wheels and sound system, you can probably put something better together for under $1800, and that's not counting selling off the original parts.
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Sep 10, 2015 02:00
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Eifert Posting posted:Waffling between Honda Fit EX and LX (Basic), 30$ a month is the difference. I really want the better speakers and and the extra inch on the tires. I have never been impressed by factory speakers on a "regular" car. Instead of getting the cheapest crap the the manufacturer could get, you're getting the cheapest crap they could get with a brand stamped on it. The extra inch on the wheels will probably offer a lot more options when you're due to replace the tires. I've got a car with 15s and the selection is lacking these days.
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Sep 10, 2015 02:01
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Uthor posted:How many months? It's about $1000 over three years or $1800 over five. 3 year lease.
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Sep 10, 2015 02:08
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Uthor posted:How many months? It's about $1000 over three years or $1800 over five. Just a warning with the fit - it's one of those cars that the heating/AC cannot function without the head unit so aftermarket stereos are kind of a pita
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Sep 10, 2015 02:12
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Eifert Posting posted:3 year lease. Scratch replacing anything. I'd say sit in one with each stereo and compare.
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Sep 10, 2015 04:15
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