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That's a MIL-DTL-5015 series, of which the Amp 97 meets the requirement. Check this document for figuring out the insert: http://www.amphenol-aerospace.com/pdf/5015_section_7.pdf
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Jun 3, 2015 04:00
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So I watched a video about Building Prototypes which the whole series is really well done but specifically this part was of interest: https://youtu.be/EeEhS3zmnDg?list=WL&t=452 I was thinking this might be a really good way to make a DIY CNC router of a decent size. Obviously you would have to pay for two plates worth of water cutting but to me the benefit of having the ability to get the table easily built/disassembled using this holding technique or else the epoxy would be a solid tradeoff. I would think this would make it possible to align and tension the elements of the table structure and gantry support along the tubes especially if you say internally threaded the tubes or used solid end threaded rods or if these rods were the acme threads themselves and then had a cross member braced internally like his granite example but not through the sides. The tubes having the threading would be easy to pull taught against the external ends of the plates bracing against the other tubes resulting in a very straight set of rails and a lot of rigidity without a lot of welding/fuss. It would also be relatively easy to adjust to get square if you designed it correctly and the ability to cut in all of the hardware/interface would make this a pretty good system. Now of course doing the same with the gantry might work as well but I have not quite figured out what the best way to do that would be. I was thinking if you had two sets of parallel tubes/rods that were loaded and then your gantry would use the standard wheels bracing internally against each of them you could do the math and see how much force you would need on keeping the tubes nice and straight to keep it all in alignment. I also think if I did the math it might be the case that you would be making the whole thing way too stiff compared to what it does. Then again I feel like those table sized wood cutters are neat, but if you had a table sized really rigid system you could use it to cut metal accurately. Again I am a math person not an engineer so I should read up on the equations but just thought it was interesting if someone had further thoughts first or else if someone has already done something along these lines let me know. I should probably draw up what I am talking about if it does not make sense right off, just let me know. I am also not sure how best to do the gantry design. Looking at other CNC systems they mostly seem to depend on the acme threads or a somewhat wide base of skate bearings on rails to hold it in place. I would think that is why there is not enough rigidity as you push it into the workpiece at speed you are going to get flexing through that axis. It would seem that having a wider stance of the gantry would be beneficial and the reason people do not is that limits your travel. However if you were not using acme threads but instead these cheap long tubes/rods that were really rigid you could trash out some of the travel for the benefit of having a more solid gantry. Of course it would be a larger footprint but at least the cost would not change that much in this system with the lower cost tube/rod over the acme.
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Jun 6, 2015 00:57
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So yeah, go team FLIR, whoever pointed me at the E4->E8 upgrade trick deserves a beer. Having loads of fun with my shiny new toys.
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Jun 6, 2015 16:45
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Finished assembling my Shapeoko 3 earlier today, after waiting what seems like an eternity to receive it. Managed my first basic test job without issue besides some lazy CAM work on my part, but ran into what looks to be an EMI issue (a semi-common one, reading their forums) when trying to run some longer (>10 min) jobs. Seems the router is loving with the control board on the machine. I'll be trying to put some shielding around the board and cables, and properly grounding everything tomorrow, but pretty excited so far! Already salivating over the idea of putting limit switches, a touch off plate and a superPID on it. Maybe in a couple months.
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Aug 16, 2015 04:22
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sirbeefalot posted:Finished assembling my Shapeoko 3 earlier today, after waiting what seems like an eternity to receive it. Managed my first basic test job without issue besides some lazy CAM work on my part, but ran into what looks to be an EMI issue (a semi-common one, reading their forums) when trying to run some longer (>10 min) jobs. Seems the router is loving with the control board on the machine. I'll be trying to put some shielding around the board and cables, and properly grounding everything tomorrow, but pretty excited so far! Already salivating over the idea of putting limit switches, a touch off plate and a superPID on it. Maybe in a couple months. Cool, report back with how it works! When did you order yours? Are you using the normal Dewalt router? What did you buy in the way of tooling so far? Been waiting on mine for a few months but they charged me for the full price already so hopefully I'll be in the next shipped batch.
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Aug 23, 2015 17:39
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So I know I want a Taig mill, I'm just not sure who I wanna buy it from. Things I'm interested in- - working primarily in steel and aluminium - TURNKEY and as close to ready-to-go as possible, barring normal assembly or stuff you can be handheld through. hobby electronics are extremely confusing to me because i have the mind of a little child, and I'm more interested in the mill as a means to an end than as the hobby in itself -I'm interested in making fairly small conforming/silhouette dies and simple tooling so I don't think I'll ever need a 4th axis Right now I'm looking at the setups offered by Deepgroove1 ( http://deepgroove1.com/cncmill.htm ), Soigeneris ( http://www.soigeneris.com/taig_cnc_mill_packages-details.aspx ) and Microproto's DSLS3000 ( http://www.microproto.com/MMDSLS.htm ). There's a price gap between the Deepgroove and the DSLS of almost $1000 and I'm not sure why- from reading up on dedicated hobby CNC forums the DSLS has some neat software trick that'll help prevent things from going weird and wrecking projects you're working on, and marginally stronger stepper motors than the soigeneris package, but that doesn't seem to justify the extra grand. And the cheapest Deepgroove package has the strongest stepper motors of all (how much will this matter for my purposes?), plus a Gecko G540 controller which people seem to think pretty highly of. Anybody hear anything about any of these companies/mill setups, or see any package that's particularly well-suited to my needs?
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Aug 23, 2015 19:20
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Ambihelical Hexnut posted:Cool, report back with how it works! When did you order yours? Are you using the normal Dewalt router? What did you buy in the way of tooling so far? Works great so far. Got it assembled last week, and within a couple days it was carving out maple parts for an existing project. The shielding on top of the controller (aluminum HVAC tape), a grounding wire to the body of the router, and some ferrite beads seems to have eliminated the crashing issues. I'm using the suggested DeWalt DWP611, it was between that and the Makita RT0700CX3, and the Makita would have required a new mount or adapter. I also ordered a pair of Precise Bits collets, in 1/4" and 1/8". I've ordered a few standard 1/4" and 1/8" endmills from drillman on eBay, should arrive tomorrow. I've been using a couple random router bits we had at the shop in the meantime. Already mulling over how badly I want to replace the included MDF wasteboard deck with a single piece of tooling plate. Also dreaming of limit switches, and a SuperPID for the router. I ordered in mid-late April, with an estimated ship date in May at the time of the order. I inquired some time in the middle of June as to where I was in the queue, and they replied that it should ship in July. Annoyed, I waited patiently, until being charged the balance at the beginning of July. I sent another email asking when it should be shipping, now that they charged me the balance and was told "about 2 weeks." 4 weeks later I sent a kind-of nasty email asking for a harder ship date, and was told there was a parts delay, it should ship the next Monday or Tuesday. It shipped Wednesday, and didn't arrive for another week. In all, an irritating experience that they could definitely improve on. The kit is pretty solid, the current published assembly instructions are pretty bare bones though. Seems like there were a couple hardware replacements at the last minute, like the fan for the electronics shroud including flat head screws, but the shroud's through holes for those screws being too small, and not countersunk. The mount screws for the controller board also don't match the tapped holes in the X rail, like they are a similar thread pitch but the tapped holes are a size larger than they should be, or something. I came up short by 1 M5 hex nut which was easily found at Home Depot (thankfully it wasn't one of the offset nuts which probably would have required waiting for them to ship me one, or ordering one from McMaster-Carr). A tip: use the upper set of holes to mount the router collar to the Z-axis plate, so you don't wonder why 3" of Z work area actually turns out to be like 1". 
sirbeefalot fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Aug 23, 2015 |
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Aug 23, 2015 20:58
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sirbeefalot posted:I ordered in mid-late April, with an estimated ship date in May at the time of the order. I inquired some time in the middle of June as to where I was in the queue, and they replied that it should ship in July. Annoyed, I waited patiently, until being charged the balance at the beginning of July. I sent another email asking when it should be shipping, now that they charged me the balance and was told "about 2 weeks." 4 weeks later I sent a kind-of nasty email asking for a harder ship date, and was told there was a parts delay, it should ship the next Monday or Tuesday. It shipped Wednesday, and didn't arrive for another week. In all, an irritating experience that they could definitely improve on. Ugh, I'm so sick of loving "maker" companies. Every one of them is just winging it, as though they all live in a world where nobody has ever run a business before. You know how many shippable systems you've got components arriving for and when the suppliers are going to have them in your hands, so if that number is 1000 systems then when you take the 1000th order you should change the horrible lie of a shipping date on the website and not sell ten thousand more on the promises of the first batch. In shapeoko's case in particular, the boss man on the forums keeps posting about how he hopes the suppliers will give him more whatever next week, and we all lap it up as though it's transparency when really it's just hopes and dreams. ALL of their issues could be fixed with a copy of Excel and a boss with the balls to be realistic about their growth. Still hoping mine ships this month. 
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Aug 23, 2015 23:57
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Is there a free or at least not stupid expensive CAD/CAM software out there that can actually handle SVGs or DXFs from Adobe Illustrator without making me want to kill myself? Fusion 360 is failing miserably at this. Fusion 360: "oh cool you want to import a SVG? well let me make it hundreds of inches too large and then not let you scale it. oh now you have a dxf? well i'll import it but i won't let you extrude it"
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Aug 28, 2015 19:36
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Easel is free and pretty good at importing svg's. It doesn't have a lot of advanced functionality, but it's great for a simple import->cut. http://easel.inventables.com/ You can also try Makercam for another free version. Both of these are more hobby-level programs, so if you're looking for more of a professional solution you might need something else.
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Aug 28, 2015 23:27
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Got my Shapeoko3 tracking number, yeehaw! I have zero garage space and my dining room is currently hosting a laser cutter and 3d printer plus all their support poo poo, it'll be fun to figure out where to put this thing. Let's hope dust shoes and shop vacs keep the dirt down so I don't have to enclose it.
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Aug 29, 2015 01:56
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Ambihelical Hexnut posted:Got my Shapeoko3 tracking number, yeehaw! I have zero garage space and my dining room is currently hosting a laser cutter and 3d printer plus all their support poo poo, it'll be fun to figure out where to put this thing. Let's hope dust shoes and shop vacs keep the dirt down so I don't have to enclose it. There is so much dust. So much. (I've been cutting a bunch of maple and MDF)
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Aug 29, 2015 02:08
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Dang, guess I'll buy some acrylic sheet to contain the dustpocalypse.
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Aug 30, 2015 01:15
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Ambihelical Hexnut posted:Dang, guess I'll buy some acrylic sheet to contain the dustpocalypse.
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Aug 30, 2015 15:25
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I've got the mechanical assembly complete but it'll be a few days before she cuts anything since I'm also working on some other projects. The shapeoko 3 seems ridiculously beefy by hobby standards, it makes the other machine I'm building on 20x20 and 20x40 v-rail feel flimsy as poo poo. Seems kind of lame to have zero pieces of extra hardware included among the many nuts, bolts, and washers but I didn't lose anything so I guess it's okay.
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Sep 2, 2015 02:47
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What are everyone's thoughts on Shapeoko vs the X-Carve?
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Sep 3, 2015 00:11
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Novo posted:What are everyone's thoughts on Shapeoko vs the X-Carve? The Shapeoko 3 is more better but you can't make it more bigger.
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Sep 4, 2015 01:02
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Randel Candygram posted:The Shapeoko 3 is more better but you can't make it more bigger. They have teased new rails in up to 5'6" lengths and shown pictures of some, but no release date yet.
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Sep 4, 2015 02:39
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Since my home made router mounts on my shapeoko 2 are out of square I haven't been doing squat. But last night I found out that the Bosch Colt mount can be made to work with my Makita with a thin shim. The difference in diamater is 70mm for the Bosch and 65mm for the Makita. So the plan is to use a couple cheapie sets of feeler gauges to shim it since that's only 2.5mm (just under .010") of shim stock needed. If that fails I'll get some shim tape from McMaster Carr. Then back to leveling all the axes so I can finally get cracking. There was also something spotted while searching where someone built their grblshield and power setup into an ammo can. I'll likely do that as well, but adding a RasPi to it for the computer so that outside of the monitor it'll be an all in one deal. And maybe also some Cat 4 cable jacks so I can finally get some limit switches in here.
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Sep 5, 2015 01:53
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Hot drat, the RasPi can run Universal G-Code Sender 2.0. And they've added an inch setting for the manual jogging so it's not just in mm anymore!
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Sep 5, 2015 23:02
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Woo, the Inventables mount has a pen holder built in. Hadn't really noticed that. This is great as attempted to make a dial indicator holder out of a 90 degree bent piece of aluminum rod earlier. It's sitting securely in the pen holder right now. Prelim results -- MDF wasteboard is horribly out of whack. Definitely bowing on one piece, and there's a drop when moving to the other. Shocking, I know. 
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Sep 9, 2015 23:23
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Parts Kit posted:Woo, the Inventables mount has a pen holder built in. Hadn't really noticed that. This is great as attempted to make a dial indicator holder out of a 90 degree bent piece of aluminum rod earlier. It's sitting securely in the pen holder right now. Can't you just...mill it flat?
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Sep 10, 2015 15:48
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Sure, though it'd be limited to only the work area, so if I had to clamp a larger stock piece outside of that there'd still be error. If I can get it down to about 5-10 thousandths across the work area I should be fine for the non-precision stuff I'm doing. Really my main concern at the moment is getting the axes square.
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Sep 10, 2015 21:08
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Ambrose Burnside posted:So I know I want a Taig mill, I'm just not sure who I wanna buy it from. Things I'm interested in- You probably know this, but all that those people are doing is taking the CNC-ready kit here and adding the controller and motors. You can do this too, and save yourself a couple hundred bucks. Honestly, that deepgroove1 kit looks pretty great. He didn't pick too-big motors (bigger is NOT always better), the g540 is a nice piece of kit, and yeah, it's the cheapest. If it were me, I'd go on Keling and just replicate everything he did.
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Sep 13, 2015 05:47
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I have a very strong incompetence/learned helplessness when it comes to anything involving electricity if it's got more to it than a single circuit. Even the Keling handholding parts kits come with, like, wiring diagrams and resistors and stuff. Those aren't even real things humans can build or interact with, robots have to do it, I'm reasonably sure. I'd -like- to build it myself in principle, but if it's not the kind of thing that takes well to being hammered true with a ball-peen then down that way lies sadness and lots of hair being pulled out.
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Sep 13, 2015 07:28
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Ambrose Burnside posted:I have a very strong incompetence/learned helplessness when it comes to anything involving electricity if it's got more to it than a single circuit. Even the Keling handholding parts kits come with, like, wiring diagrams and resistors and stuff. Those aren't even real things humans can build or interact with, robots have to do it, I'm reasonably sure. Understood . I always figure, well, nobody was born with the knowledge of how to put these mills and electronics together. Worst case, I have to ask somebody for help.Also, really appreciate you posting that - I think imma save up for one. edit: did a little more research on hobby CNC mills, and the Seig X3/Grizzly G0463 has some good CNC kits that are price-comparable with a little ebay luck looking for ballscrews. Way better mill (almost 500lbs) and only slightly harder than the Taig DIY. Mofabio fucked around with this message at 08:14 on Sep 14, 2015 |
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Sep 13, 2015 09:08
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Finally cut something on the shapeoko 2 for the first time in months. Just a couple limit switch mounts, got a few more to make. Now if I can only figure out a way to install these bastards without having to take apart most of the machine.  ed: woo, figured it out. 2 down, 4 to go once more screws/nuts arrive. 
Parts Kit fucked around with this message at 15:39 on Sep 16, 2015 |
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Sep 16, 2015 13:18
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Just got a Shapeoko 3 last night! Going to start putting it together tonight.
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Sep 16, 2015 20:50
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Parts Kit posted:Now if I can only figure out a way to install these bastards without having to take apart most of the machine. http://m.ebay.com/itm/Drop-In-T-Nut-M5-Thread-For-T-slot-aluminum-extrusion-10-8-6-4-4mm-Pack-of-20-/381233727246
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Sep 16, 2015 21:02
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peepsalot posted:You might like these sort of things
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Sep 16, 2015 21:35
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An acquaintance has built himself a CNC mill with motors, and wants help with the software. I'm considering helping him, because he is a nice person and I would like for him to be my friend. But I've no idea how to start on such a thing. RaspPi + breakout board + ??? What's the gold standard on instruction code? What are these things supposed to run?
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Sep 16, 2015 22:10
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froward posted:An acquaintance has built himself a CNC mill with motors, and wants help with the software. I'm considering helping him, because he is a nice person and I would like for him to be my friend. But I've no idea how to start on such a thing. They run gcode. There's lots of free software out there for converting vector stuff to gcode. For actually running the gcode and turning motors, mach3 is the gold standard, but emc2 is free and comes on a livecd. Is that what you're asking?
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Sep 16, 2015 22:49
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froward posted:An acquaintance has built himself a CNC mill with motors, and wants help with the software. I'm considering helping him, because he is a nice person and I would like for him to be my friend. But I've no idea how to start on such a thing. Then on the software side he'll need software for CAD, then CAM software for turning the CAD model into g-code, and then some kind of program to send the g-code down from the raspi to the interpreter board. Universal G-Code Sender has worked well for me for the last part, though it's bare bones and getting it to run on my raspi was kinda annoying. I have a love-hate relationship with Fusion 360 for CAD/CAM (it does both yay) and use it on my desktop and macbook. Parts Kit fucked around with this message at 01:40 on Sep 17, 2015 |
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Sep 17, 2015 01:37
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Thanks for laying it out, now I know what to google
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Sep 17, 2015 15:58
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So I'm about 1/3 of the way through converting my Grizzly G0768 8x16 lathe to cnc+VFD. I figured I'd start dropping pictures here in case there's any interest in a probably-longer-than-anticipated build log. It's a 3-part deal: switch the existing 3/4hp motor out for a 3-phase 1/2hp on VFD, replace the x-axis carriage with a THK SKR33 ballscrew rail, and replace the z-carriage with a ground C-something ballscrew riding on the existing apron. Then the VFD and gecko drive -> LinuxCNC. So far, I've swapped the pretty lousy included chuck (the four-jaw didn't hold work parallel with the z-axis, nor did its warranty replacement) with a nice beefy 50's American-made one that has no such issue, and added a QCTP. At that point I was going to leave it manual for a while, but while parting some aluminum, the included motor gave out, and figured I might as well do the whole thing. At least there's no where further for the project to creep, right?  Here's the lathe, disassembled:  Leadscrew, motor, electronics, cross slide, apron, headstock gears and belts, etc all removed. Another nice upgrade will be replacing the existing 3/16" v-belt with a nice fat 1/2" AX v-belt. Here's the new headstock pulley plate:  Got this as some metal fabricator for scrap price, $15. It's really beefy and rusty, so I'm wirebrushing and maybe even drilling that today, hopefully. Still working on the pulley layout. This is the new motor:  I'm trying to keep this whole project cheap. The 1/2hp VFD came free at a training/advertising thing, and the 240V/3ph motor was a $30 ebay find. I wired and spun it up, everything on this end works. The steppers from Keling came yesterday, but hooking them up is gonna be a few weeks off yet. Wish me luck! Mofabio fucked around with this message at 05:31 on Sep 20, 2015 |
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Sep 20, 2015 00:46
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No pics yet, but I finished wire brushing off most of the surface rust from the steel. The pitting wasn't that deep, so that's good. Maybe tomorrow it'll get drilled, cleaned, and clear-coated. Finished the motor pulley layout. Definitely not a mechanical engineer, but I feel like I'm learning.  Had to check pulley alignment: 
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Sep 20, 2015 08:30
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Randel Candygram posted:The Shapeoko 3 is more better but you can't make it more bigger. is this really the consensus? can you elaborate? When I look at Shapeoko vs X-Carve, I get the opposite impression...X-Carve seems to have more options, is cheaper, and the inventables website has a lot more useful content / stuff for sale. The Shapeoko site is just like "it's $999 do you want it or not".
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Sep 21, 2015 21:58
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I own a 1000mm X-Carve and I loving love it. There are a couple of mods the community has come up with that really, really should be incorporated into the base design - namely, stiffening the X-axis and adding some anti-sag support for the Y-axis rails - but overall, it was a no-brainer for me when it came to buying one. I'm also completely unashamed to admit that I've become an Inventables fanboy. I have never seen another company go so far out of its way to correct problems and make sure the customers are happy. The founder/CEO, Zach Kaplan, is also very active on the community forums, and lends a refreshing air of transparency to what's going on with the company for both good and bad things. I don't have any opinions on the Shapeoko 3, since I honestly only gave it a cursory glance when I was shopping, but I haven't regretted my purchase for a single second.
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Sep 21, 2015 22:54
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Novo posted:is this really the consensus? can you elaborate? Yeah, sorry, maybe not the most helpful answer. The Shapeoko 3 is much more mechanically robust. If you're at all interested in cutting metal its improved rigidity would make your life much easier. Working with wood or plastic, though, I doubt there would be any observable performance difference between the two. The X-Carve is almost certainly a better buying experience, and as it's nearly component-for-component compatible with the Shapeoko 2, there is a big ol' pile of knowledge and upgrades out there. Inventables is pretty great. The only complaint I have is that their forum is ugly garbage for ugly babies. Which is truly more better? Only you can decide.
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Sep 21, 2015 23:18
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Randel Candygram posted:YThe only complaint I have is that their forum is ugly garbage for ugly babies.
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Sep 21, 2015 23:57
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