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_Dav posted:I'm having real trouble selling my bike and am pretty sure now that it's something blindingly obvious to other people. Could I get a little bit of critique please? The price is pretty middle-ground, I've tried cheaper previously for about and month and still had zero interest :/ Nobody is buying it because the headlights are hideous. Jokes aside, and to mirror what Digital_Jesus said, it's all those extras listed, and the price. Coredump had the same issue, before I ended up buying his SV. Mods make me run from a bike, and will confuse someone who really doesn't know, unless you get that one guy who sees it as set up exactly as they want it. Mods are nice to leave to the stage of when the person is actually looking at the bike. If i show up and the owner mentions things like heated grips or other nice things, I'm more inclined to want to get that bike right now. If the owner doesn't say anything, and I notice, I'll be more inclined to buy that bike right now for a slightly higher price thinking I'm getting a deal. In an ad? I assume the owner was a hick moron who completely ruined the bike with backyard "improvements".
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Sep 12, 2015 02:19
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M42 posted:Would anyone happen to know the thread size/pitch for a 1981 honda cm400t brake caliper bleeder bolt? Trying to help a friend with a vintage bike and finding little bits of info like that is a bitch. Motorcycle superstore has m7, m8, and m10 sizes as options.
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Sep 12, 2015 03:16
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:M8 and 10 sound awful big for a motorcycle bleeder bolt, if you're talking about the threads. I think we have a CM400 at the shop and I could measure it for you tomorrow if needed. Sometimes local auto parts shops will have bleeders that fit. Yeah looking back on it now I realise that that's what the parts place had and not what the potential size of the bolt on the bike was; it's probably m6.
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Sep 12, 2015 03:55
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Digital_Jesus posted:Well for starters the going rate for a 2012 Speed Triple round' my parts is $7.8k which works out to 5100 squid dollars. So other than being possibly 1000 high you've got a long list of "extra" poo poo I couldn't be bothered to read because its almost one long running sentence and the website has terrible formatting. For the most part any "extras" on the bike don't drive up the value in my opinion. Thats a black hole in your pocket, not mine. Coydog posted:Nobody is buying it because the headlights are hideous. Sweet, thanks for the input. It's all been a bit bizarre with one person being very keen in the first week (at 6350), and then NOTHING since... Have dropped the price and included only critical details, let the bike speak for itself I guess.
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Sep 12, 2015 10:24
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Anyone here familiar with add-on LED kits? I always thought they were cool in a goofy way, but in most of the U.S. it's a violation to have them turned on while riding. Here in Liberia rules are extremely lax, I routinely see motorcyclists and even cars driving at night with no lights whatsoever, or only one headlight on a Mack truck, etc. I'm about to buy a dirtbike and want to really up my nighttime visibility to eliminate any chance of anyone not noticing me. I could probably light up the bike like the Las Vegas strip without cops caring, but I want to keep it just barely within ethical bounds for being highly visible without blinding other drivers. Target biek is a Yamaha AG100, not much plastic fairing on that to drill. Can anyone advise a brand and setup of LEDs that would be durable, not too hard to mount, look cool, and make us extremely visible at night?
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Sep 12, 2015 12:49
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:Anyone here familiar with add-on LED kits? I always thought they were cool in a goofy way, but in most of the U.S. it's a violation to have them turned on while riding. Here in Liberia rules are extremely lax, I routinely see motorcyclists and even cars driving at night with no lights whatsoever, or only one headlight on a Mack truck, etc. Like ground effects or like desert lights? I think in the gear thread some folks were putting LEDs on their helmets a few months ago.
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Sep 12, 2015 14:20
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builds character posted:Like ground effects or like desert lights? Not for illuminating my path, since iirc it has a decent headlight with a metal cage, but something to make sure other people see me. On the simplest level, maybe something like this:  Though I wouldn't say no to ground lights since that'd look pretty boss if it's an actual durable product and not a junk novelty. TapTheForwardAssist fucked around with this message at 17:17 on Sep 12, 2015 |
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Sep 12, 2015 15:59
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Let me pick your guys' collective brains for a moment here. Somewhat similar question as TTFA. I've been out of the game for a couple of years after a move across the coast. I still have my bike in my old city and I'm ready to reunite with it. However, I'm not comfortable riding it up here without setting up a new brake light and turn signals, but I'm not sure how I want to install them. I doubt anyone remembers my bike at this point so here is a picture:  So yeah, a stock fixture isn't gonna work. The integrated LEDs were a cool idea but were invisible during the day. I'm thinking about mounting something underneath the license plate, maybe this? Not sure if that would be enough light during the day. Anyone have any better ideas or product recommendations? I'm okay with drilling poo poo/using velcro/setting up makeshift brackets if any of you guys have some crazy ideas. Only caveat is that it has to be easily removable or not brittle plastic because I'm not taping lights on the track. I'm going to wire up a quick disconnect under the tail for the electricals, just need to figure out what I actually want to supply electricity to.
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Sep 12, 2015 19:03
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They're expensive, but custom dynamics makes awesome stuff. You'd want a couple of these in red: http://www.customdynamics.com/truflex_flexible_led_lighting.htm and a couple more in amber that you put on the swingarm for turn signals. You can also put 2 on the front for forward turns. It'll be expensive, overall, but totally worth it - waterproof, really bright, flexible, and easy to install/wire. You'll want a dual converter so you can use the rear red lights as a brake light and rear light.
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Sep 13, 2015 02:05
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See, this is why I asked here - those are absolutely perfect. Already have a dual converter from my old setup. I can wire those up and slap a waterproof on/off switch at the bottom of the tail for track use. Looks like they're flexible enough that I'll be able to reuse them if i smash my tail into a thousand pieces too  Thanks Z3n.
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Sep 13, 2015 03:07
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M42 posted:Would anyone happen to know the thread size/pitch for a 1981 honda cm400t brake caliper bleeder bolt? Trying to help a friend with a vintage bike and finding little bits of info like that is a bitch. Motorcycle superstore has m7, m8, and m10 sizes as options. You could also try a Speedbleeder SB7100. There's also a place up here in Canadia that has a replacement part http://www.partsnmore.com/parts/honda/cm400t/?q=73-0995 Chris Knight fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Sep 13, 2015 |
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Sep 13, 2015 18:42
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Thanks! Especially for the speedbleeder part #, that's exactly why I needed to know the size - I'm replacing the stock bleeder with one.
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Sep 13, 2015 21:21
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Right on. Also get yer friend on http://www.hondatwins.net if they're not already. Lots of good info about parts etc. Chris Knight fucked around with this message at 12:26 on Sep 14, 2015 |
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Sep 13, 2015 23:39
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M42 posted:Would anyone happen to know the thread size/pitch for a 1981 honda cm400t brake caliper bleeder bolt? Trying to help a friend with a vintage bike and finding little bits of info like that is a bitch. Motorcycle superstore has m7, m8, and m10 sizes as options. Brake Bleed Screw M7 x 1.0 x 27 Edit; gently caress there was a whole 'nother page.
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Sep 14, 2015 16:43
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:Not for illuminating my path, since iirc it has a decent headlight with a metal cage, but something to make sure other people see me. On the simplest level, maybe something like this: Okay now I want this for my honda. No shame
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Sep 14, 2015 18:11
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LEDs on the wheels sound neat, I like the way they look when spinning. Are those cheap valve stem cap lights illegal in most of the US, too?
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Sep 14, 2015 20:46
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Yeah, I have those valve stem ones, and no one has ever complained. Keep in mind that they're really only visible from the sides, but they're cheap and I doubt you'd get pulled over or ticketed for them. I'm not a lawyer, though. I also added this http://www.adafruit.com/category/50 to my helmet and it looks amazing and is super visible. They have wires (which is what I used) and tapes, which would look baller on a bike. One thing to remember with the EL stuff is that it will fade if its in the sunlight (if you park outside, etc.), so it's not perfect for a bike, but I think they say the lifespan is a year or two with sun exposure. Adafruit also sells LED strings which can be very easily wired into a bike's battery. I think if you keep stuff under the fairings for the most part, you're not going to get into LEO trouble. E: I haven't looked at Adafruit in a while, but this might be right up your alley? http://www.adafruit.com/products/675 They have sewable EL wire! Lynza fucked around with this message at 21:47 on Sep 14, 2015 |
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Sep 14, 2015 21:33
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The led's on the wheels look cool and make you more visible, and I can't find anything wrong with that. In Wisconsin we specifically passed a bill this year that addresses it: "The bill allows people to outfit their bikes with any color lights other than red, blue or amber as long as they shine down and don't flash or rotate." I can't find the exact verbiage for the bill, but I don't think that "rotate" refers to the led's on the wheel, rather it refers to a light with it's own rotation mechanism.
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Sep 14, 2015 21:56
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Huh, looks like valve cap LEDs are really inexpensive, vibration-activated, wire-free, etc. Seems a can't-miss for inexpensively adding some side-visibility and also looking cool. I see a ton of makers, presumably some a better China-made crap than others. Any advice on which to get other than just going by Amazon reviews and making sure enough reviewers are pleased with them on motorbikes and cars? At prices as cheap as $12 for a set of four, might try putting them on our truck too.
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Sep 15, 2015 10:17
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I just found a six pack for $11. http://www.amazon.com/Abco-Tech-Bicycle-Motorbicycle-Blue-Green-Colorful/dp/B00OQG4NJI
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Sep 15, 2015 11:16
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Lynza posted:Adafruit SH/SC is leaking into CA?  I kinda want to get a Raspberry Pi and use it as a light controller for these: http://www.adafruit.com/products/414. Cover the bike in them and have them alternate blinking. Alternatively, this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mH6oQbckCms
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Sep 15, 2015 13:11
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Yeah those valve stem lights are like a half gram of plastic, a button battery, an LED, and a spring for a "vibration switch." They're dead simple so they're stupid cheap.
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Sep 15, 2015 13:28
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Would they have much effect on the balance of the wheel? I'm guessing maybe not just because of the relative masses but my physics is nowhere near good enough to know.
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Sep 15, 2015 13:33
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I wouldn't use them with a rubber valve stem out of paranoia of the weight sitting up off the thing working the stem back and forth and causing some cracking over time. Swapping to metal stems is easy if you're changing the tire and should greatly reduce the risk. Plus if you run metal stems, and metal caps, if your valve core fails you won't lose pressure as quickly and can probably get home (this is why race organizers usually require them). But maybe I'm just being paranoid. 
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Sep 15, 2015 14:41
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Z3n posted:I wouldn't use them with a rubber valve stem out of paranoia of the weight sitting up off the thing working the stem back and forth and causing some cracking over time. Swapping to metal stems is easy if you're changing the tire and should greatly reduce the risk. Plus if you run metal stems, and metal caps, if your valve core fails you won't lose pressure as quickly and can probably get home (this is why race organizers usually require them). maybe 
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Sep 15, 2015 15:29
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now THIS http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P9D4KBI This looks like something i need for night rides: 
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Sep 15, 2015 17:25
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Seen it in person. Even at night with no streetlights, the lines it projects onto black pavement are visible from about 8 feet away, tops.
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Sep 15, 2015 19:09
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nitrogen posted:now THIS There are ones designed for motorcycles. Company is called gear brake. You wire them inline.
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Sep 17, 2015 01:50
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Pope Mobile posted:There are ones designed for motorcycles. Company is called gear brake. You wire them inline. If your bike is particularly smoky and vibey, you could get some sweet rear end laser tunnels going on.
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Sep 17, 2015 02:02
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2013 ninja 650 has trouble starting. About 24k mi. Ridden every day for commute, rain or shine, hot or cold, excepting only ice/snow. No problems. It is due for new oil/filter/air filter/plugs. Weather is clear, cool, and dry today. Going to work this morning, starts/runs no problem. Going to lunch, starts/runs no problem. I go out to the bike to go home, bike doesn't start. I managed to get it started, turned it off, started it again with trouble, rode home, stopped for gas. It didnt want to start at the station, started up, got home. The issue is that when I press the start button, right now it seems to be 50/50 what happens. It either starts up fine, or there's a very faint whirring noise coming from the vicinity of the airbox. If I roll the bike a bit or bounce it it'll probably start right up, and runs fine. Right now, I walked out, put in the key, thumbed it, and it started right up. I hit the kill switch, turn it back to on, hit the starter, nothing. I bounce the bike, starts right up. At all times once the bike is started, it runs absolutely normal to my ability to feel and hear anything. It's not throwing any codes. Connections to the battery appear tight and good. I have not gone through every electrical connector. WTF am I possibly looking at? The faint whirring noise when a start fails, appears to be coming from the top of the engine, under the tank in the airbox area. Looking at the factory service manual, the relay box is in that region and I can't see much of anything else with moving parts that would affect ignition without throwing a code. Starter relay going bad that's freed up when the bike bounces a bit?
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Sep 17, 2015 02:39
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HAMAS HATE BOAT posted:2013 ninja 650 has trouble starting. How old is the battery and do you have a multimeter? The faint whirring sounds like the fuel pump cycling after a failed start. edit: Does kind of sound like starter relay, but i'm not sure if a relay could give intermitting starting. I always assumed they were on/off. velocross fucked around with this message at 03:57 on Sep 17, 2015 |
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Sep 17, 2015 03:55
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Relays can definitely fail intermittently, as can starter buttons if they have moisture inside.
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Sep 17, 2015 04:07
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It is the original battery from when I bought it new 2 yrs ago (almost to the day). Battery showed 12.7 V resting, the bike is occasionally able to start right up first time, and while running shows over 13V. There's no clicking or anything else when it fails to start, nothing similar to a dead/dying battery. I just resurrected a bike that's sat for 2 years so battery was my first thought but it doesnt seem likely at this point. You could be right on the fuel pump, but that noise starts basically as I'm holding the start button down. I have confidence the pump itself is fine, once the bike starts there's no problems. that whirring could be a red herring, the fuel pump going normally and I've just never heard it before because the engine always turns over immediately . I opened the starter button assembly and it was fine and dry inside, no signs of corrosion. I didn't dick with it too much so it is always possible there's a loose wire in there or anyplace else (except the battery terminals, which I checked). However a loose connection seems unlikely given the last time i tried to start it: first start is fine and normal, and without moving or doing anything but maintaining hold on the brake and clutch I hit the kill switch off, wait a few seconds, on, bike fails to start. Bounce it a bit, and it fires right up. Seems to rule out stuff like sidestand switch or clutch sensor, but i guess a loose connection in the starter button could be a possibility, needing to be pushed just right. Assuming I can get it to start the next 2 days to get to work and home, I plan to rip into it this weekend for the due maintenance and hopefully complete diagnosis since I need to get past that relay box to change the filter and plugs anyway. It's also coming up on the first valve check interval but that'll wait a bit. Ninja 650s don't seem to have much of an online community like 250s or KLRs or SV650s yet so there doesnt appear to be a specialist group to turn to. I'm checking versys forums but not finding something really similar.
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Sep 17, 2015 05:01
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Pope Mobile posted:There are ones designed for motorcycles. Company is called gear brake. You wire them inline. Gear brake is just a brake light flasher module (not lasers), combined with a very badly utilized accelerometer that also flashes the brake lights when it detects "slowing down," but I have seen a guy with them on his Ninja 250 and it activates all of the loving time when he's just riding, and it's not his brake switch. Also, that is, by far, the worst YouTube video product demonstration I have ever seen. You can't tell what's going on, and the motorcycle they used was dirty, so half of the taillight was obscured anyway. $70 for that piece of poo poo? gently caress that. Smells like some college grad discovered you could buy things in bulk from China, including stickers to rebrand the flasher box, and thought that's how business works. Get a standard flasher module for $2 off of ebay. We've had one on each of our bikes for about two years now and there are no issues. They flash quickly four times, then three longer flashes, then solid. Edit VVVVVVV: looks like all of their stuff is generic ebay chinese things, rebranded. Nothing wrong with that, but it's a lazy business model. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 07:22 on Sep 17, 2015 |
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Sep 17, 2015 05:14
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Gear Brake makes the accelerometer and brake thngy and other stuff. There's the LED strip and an LED that that projects the light strip on the ground. We sell them at my store. All their stuff is here: http://gearbrake.com/collections/shop
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Sep 17, 2015 06:54
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Hamas - check the clutch/kickstand kill sensors.
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Sep 17, 2015 09:56
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My rusty stanchions have predictably eaten my fork seals and changing my fork seals is kind of hard due to many sad facts about the condition of the rest of the forks. Short version, I've ordered some new forks off eBay and thought I'd get some fork gaiters to extend the life of the next ones. Question 1, will I get teased if I wear these to school?  Question 2, anyone know anything about neoprene gaiters? They might look better than rubber and protect equally well from rocks, but I'd think they absorb water like a wet suit which can lead to rust just the same. Are they any good?
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Sep 18, 2015 08:05
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Cheap guys use shock bellows. check out seal savers. they work pretty good. They make a long and short version too. as for trapping water? I dunno, I've yet to see a set rusted out because of it.
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Sep 18, 2015 14:15
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Ola posted:My rusty stanchions have predictably eaten my fork seals and changing my fork seals is kind of hard due to many sad facts about the condition of the rest of the forks. Short version, I've ordered some new forks off eBay and thought I'd get some fork gaiters to extend the life of the next ones. Q2: Supradog posted:04 march 2014 I've been running them for 2 seasons now and they've been very good. No rust or pitting and the inside is always dry then I check there. Edit: here they are. Supradog fucked around with this message at 14:40 on Sep 18, 2015 |
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Sep 18, 2015 14:38
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Thanks guys. I wonder if I can by with just a sheet of neoprene (as sold for divers etc) and some zip ties.There's no special coating or layer on it, right? That way I can cut to exact dimensions. Also thinking about vinyl wrapping my tank and other mods, might be a project thread in this.
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Sep 18, 2015 20:19
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