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Really just posting here to brag. Dad's graduation present for me was a new system for my new apartment. B&W 685s2s run through a NAD d3020 (which, to the guy on the last page, is far more amp than you need if you're running a 2.0 setup out of a computer. Get a pair of monitors or something else powered instead, maybe the M-Audio monitors that everyone has). I CAN KNOCK WALLS DOWN.
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# ? Sep 12, 2015 22:34 |
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# ? Jun 3, 2024 18:19 |
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A Good Dad. Seriously, that's a really nice system. I demoed those speakers a while back and they're pretty drat good. Now you just need a sub
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# ? Sep 14, 2015 18:49 |
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qirex posted:Now you just need
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# ? Sep 14, 2015 18:54 |
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Kinky!
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# ? Sep 14, 2015 19:14 |
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I know the average American has a open plan living room with a 30' vaulted ceiling but I don't really get how multiple subs became such a thing. I have a moderately large living room and my one small 10" sealed sub rattles the windows
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# ? Sep 14, 2015 21:37 |
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It's not about the added output, it's about having a more even distribution of bass in the entire room. With one sub, you get a lot of peaks and nulls, and multiple subs can mitigate that, with proper placement. I use two 12" subs in a 18mē living room, and I have good bass no matter where I am sitting. It's pretty much the same at my usual listening position if I only turn on one sub, but everywhere else it's better with the second sub added.
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# ? Sep 14, 2015 22:00 |
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Some people just like bass ok?
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# ? Sep 14, 2015 22:09 |
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Or with 2 subs you can place them next to each other and flip the phase switch on one of them and smile at how well the sound cancels out.
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# ? Sep 15, 2015 09:07 |
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I'm moving house this week and am contemplating installing my 4 folded horn PA subs in the living room 'just to see'. But I know if I do that then they'll remain there forever. Is there a downside??
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# ? Sep 15, 2015 10:47 |
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88h88 posted:I'm moving house this week and am contemplating installing my 4 folded horn PA subs in the living room 'just to see'. But I know if I do that then they'll remain there forever. I would do this, but mount them underneath the floor in the basement. I wonder how well that would work.
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# ? Sep 15, 2015 11:25 |
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revmoo posted:I would do this, but mount them underneath the floor in the basement. I wonder how well that would work. It'd work fine, you'd just need to move them around the room to find the best placement for them and THEN start hacking up your floor. Also fun with joists.
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# ? Sep 15, 2015 13:38 |
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Is it kosher to ask a tech support question regarding a receiver in here? I have a Denon AVR X1000 that has worked perfectly up until a gnarly thunderstorm on Sunday night. It's hooked in to a surge protector and a battery backup, but still seems to have been affected by the storm. The unit powers on and provides sound like normal, but there is no video signal via HDMI going to the TV. If I boot up my Playstation, I can hear the startup sound and the clicks from navigating menus but there isn't any picture. Things I've tried: I've tested both the HDMI cord from the receiver to the TV and the Playstation to the receiver on the Playstation and both hdmi cords work when connected directly between the Playstation and TV. I've also done the factory reset on the receiver by holding the power and tuner +/- buttons. The last thing I tried out was powering everything off for a half hour and then turning each element on individually starting with the receiver first. So far none of this has resulted in any video on the screen. Any advice on what to try next?
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# ? Sep 15, 2015 16:02 |
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Can you see the menu of the receiver on the TV? Have you tried using a different HDMI input? If it is still in warranty, I would send it in for repair.
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# ? Sep 15, 2015 16:06 |
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No menu or volume display on the tv like it has when it's working correctly. Yes, I've tried different hdmi inputs on the tv and different inputs on the receiver itself, the ps3 and the cable box both send sound through the receiver but no video. It's not very old, so I believe it's under the warranty. I was just hoping there was some HDMI handshaking issue that I'm unfamiliar with that I could fix. The sound is coming through though, so it's not as though the connection isn't recognized at all. Thanks for your help.
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# ? Sep 15, 2015 16:14 |
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I'm looking at the $159 monoprice 5.1 speaker system coupled with a 7.2 Denon AVR-S700W from amazon.com for $299 for the purposes of getting as much bell-and-whistle features out of the lowest price with a reasonably good audio result for apartment-level listening. Are there any two components out there that would do a better job for a similar price point? There is the 5.1 Denon AVR-S500BT for $209 at amazon.com which might work just as well as it has bluetooth for device streaming, but then again its only $80 more for wifi and Audessy. Is there a < $500 US consensus goon system HITIB that uses a receiver and satellites?
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# ? Sep 16, 2015 10:10 |
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shadow puppet of a posted:I'm looking at the $159 monoprice 5.1 speaker system coupled with a 7.2 Denon AVR-S700W from amazon.com for $299 for the purposes of getting as much bell-and-whistle features out of the lowest price with a reasonably good audio result for apartment-level listening. If you care about 4k in the future id call around to avscience (or other online dealers, find them on avsforum) or local denon dealers (not bestbuy, independents) and see what they can do the AVR-S710W for.
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# ? Sep 16, 2015 14:56 |
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I was going to joke about those speakers being the cheapest thing I've ever seen but it turns out they have an $80 set as well
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# ? Sep 16, 2015 21:48 |
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Its the visible monoprice branding that really brings a room together. I went with the AVR-S500BT as it has Audessey and I genuinely actively hate 4k. (Its not enough pixels and not enough refresh rate, its a dead-end mid-life standard like EDTV and DigitalVHS were) But thank you for your input.
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# ? Sep 16, 2015 21:55 |
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If that's all the budget you have maybe take a good browse through your local craigslist, I'm trying not to be too snotty but I don't think Audessey should be a major concern at that level of equipment.
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# ? Sep 16, 2015 22:35 |
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No no, I like snotty. And the craigslist thing is a good idea aside from the fact that I a) like new things b) fear bedbugs and c) fear interacting with people (my building recently got a large key locker for parcel delivery and its the best thing ever) And Audessy is only important because I like the futuristic idea of a piece of equipment figuring out a room. Its a system designed for my many quirks, faults and foibles. (such as I'm actually a little bummed that the AVR-S500BT does take 4k input on two HDMIs, gently caress 4k [it should have been called 2k anyway])
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# ? Sep 16, 2015 22:44 |
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I remember the Monoprice speakers used to be rebranded Energy speakers, but I don't think they are anymore. I wanted some to upgrade from a hand me down Bose HTIAB that have and was looking for maybe a good/better/best for the 800ish range. Everything but my SNES and NES hook up via HDMI, 4 total that would use that type of connector. Any basic recommendations for a 3.1 setup?
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# ? Sep 16, 2015 23:24 |
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They weren't rebranded. They were clones and klipsch sued them.
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# ? Sep 16, 2015 23:39 |
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I'm the guy that has a wife that inherited the kickass home A/V system from her dad. I've got it all set up and it's awesome. Could use a little rumbly bass though. Current set up has a Yamaha RX-V2065 receiver with inputs from an Oppo 105 Blu-ray, Verizon Fios box, Sony Bravia smart TV, and a Pro-Ject RPM 5.1 SE turntable. Audio outputs are Bowers and Wilkins 804s front left and right, Bowers and Wilkins HTM4s center, and Solid HCM2 satellites for the rear surround. McIntosh MX205 amplifier pushes power to everything. It sounds awesome when playing music and watching movies! Someone suggested this Polk Audio 10" Sub earlier in the thread, and it looks nice enough but I was wondering if anyone had thoughts about Zeos's subwoofer suggestions from reddit. Prices look good, but I've never heard of these brands. I'm trying to get something that will mesh well with the equipment I have without having to spend $2600 for something that will keep up with the rest of the system.
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# ? Sep 17, 2015 16:08 |
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Polk PSW505 is my goto. Get two if you can swing it. They regularly go on sale for ~200. That PSW10 is fine for smaller systems, but your existing setup probably outperforms it already. One thing to note is that I find even the 505 gets a bit of port chuffing on the real low end. Normally, I wouldn't even mention it, but I feel like a system like yours deserves the best you can reasonably get for it. Maybe look at sealed subs? The BIC-12 has been compared to the 505 as very similar, so that's solid too. Dayton is known for their low cost speaker components in DIY circles. Don't hear much about that their pre-built stuff, but their subs have a decent reputation. KillHour fucked around with this message at 16:26 on Sep 17, 2015 |
# ? Sep 17, 2015 16:19 |
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How large is the room?
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# ? Sep 17, 2015 16:20 |
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Don Lapre posted:How large is the room? 20' ish x 14' ish
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# ? Sep 17, 2015 16:29 |
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Whatever you decide, I would rather have 2 decent subs than 1 really awesome sub. So take your budget and divide by 2 to get a good idea of what to look at. You'll have to play with placement to get whatever works best, but something like this would probably be good. The more asymmetrical, the better with subs.
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# ? Sep 17, 2015 23:30 |
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You can also do the "sub crawl", where you place the sub in your couch or main listening position, then pay a bassy track and crawl along the panels. Wherever the bass is most pronounced is where you should ideally place your sub. Then for the second sub you leave the first sub in its position crawl around the floor and find the spot with the least bass. That's where you put your second sub. It's not foolproof, but it worked great for my living room. You'll also have to play around with the phase settings on the subs. If they're set wrong, you'll have weird holes in the frequency response. E: a good way to test phase is to play a tone at your chosen crossover frequency through your full system. Whichever setting provides the loudest output at your listening position is correct. You can download SPL meter apps to check this with your phone. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 23:50 on Sep 17, 2015 |
# ? Sep 17, 2015 23:40 |
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Hi thread. I currently have a 5.1 system that I like but it looks like a new receiver is in my future. Seems like the Denon AVR-S710W is a good bet if that's in my budget? Another question, just moved to a nice new apartment and I can't run speaker cable to the rear. Is there a good solution to convert wired speakers to wireless that will be low-latency enough to not cause a problem? I'm not a hardcore audiophile, so it does't have to be perfect, but I'm not sure if that is a big no-no or what. Thanks thread!
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# ? Sep 25, 2015 05:24 |
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Right I'm after a product recommendation. I exploded the amp I use in my room, to be fair it was about 15 years old and had lived the vast majority of its life powered on in a lecture theatre. It was one of these; A Yamaha P4050, cost me exactly zero pence and was as quiet as a church mouse. I'm currently using a power amp from my PA but it's a noisy fucker (QSC GX5) so I want to put that back in the rack and get something quiet and less stupidly huge. It'll be powering a set of these which are supposedly 175w max. What should I be looking at? Olympic Mathlete fucked around with this message at 12:09 on Sep 25, 2015 |
# ? Sep 25, 2015 12:07 |
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Does it have to be new, and does it have to be a power amp? If the answer to both of those questions is "yes", you should check out the Behringer A500. It's 2x185W at 4 ohms and was "famously" featured in an audiophile blind listening test where it was indistinguishable from a setup costing thousands more (because all competently-built amps have no sound of their own). Don't forget to have a look at the used market, "pro" audio dudes love to upgrade. I've built a seriously beefy 3kW total amp setup for my dad's band for peanuts. There are plenty of amps available for cheap, but you'll have to ask the sellers if the amps are fanless. As a rule of thumb, anything over 2x200W will likely have a fan.
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# ? Sep 25, 2015 12:26 |
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No to both, I've had a look online at the usual 2nd hand sites and there's a million and one choices. I was just wondering if there was anything in particular I should keep an eye out for really. I was contemplating an integrated amp if only so I don't have to put my laptop/PC through my DJ mixer again because it has the most obnoxious flashing light standby/attract mode. And we use those Behringers here at work and they're great!
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# ? Sep 25, 2015 13:10 |
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In that case, the world is pretty much your oyster! Basically any stereo integrated amp or receiver will work great in your setup (aside from the very small number of lovely amps that can't handle 4 ohm speakers), and as a bonus 99.9% of all home hifi gear is fanless. There are tons of such amps on the used market, mostly from people upgrading from stereo to surround sound systems, and they're usually rather inexpensive. Basically anything from NAD, Cambridge, Pioneer, Denon, Yamaha, etc. will work great, and if you're willing to go without a remote control, there are even more (and cheaper) options from the 80s and 90s. Hell, even some 70s amps, too, but most of those will probably need a little TLC. Just keep in mind that if you've been in the habit of using all of the power of your Yamaha (full gain on the amp and high volume on your mixer), it has a power rating of 2x140W or more, and not a lot of home amps can deliver that kind of power. However, unless your hearing is extremely bad and you like to play at absolutely deafening levels, odds are you were only ever using a fraction of that power, and any consumer amplifier with 2x50W or more will do just fine. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 13:34 on Sep 25, 2015 |
# ? Sep 25, 2015 13:28 |
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Internet Explorer posted:Hi thread. I currently have a 5.1 system that I like but it looks like a new receiver is in my future. Seems like the Denon AVR-S710W is a good bet if that's in my budget? Another question, just moved to a nice new apartment and I can't run speaker cable to the rear. Is there a good solution to convert wired speakers to wireless that will be low-latency enough to not cause a problem? I'm not a hardcore audiophile, so it does't have to be perfect, but I'm not sure if that is a big no-no or what. Thanks thread! Hi again thread. I know it's a slow moving one and I hate to quote myself, but does anyone have any thoughts on the wireless speaker converter topic? I assume the Denon is just fine.
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# ? Oct 9, 2015 05:13 |
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Internet Explorer posted:Hi again thread. I know it's a slow moving one and I hate to quote myself, but does anyone have any thoughts on the wireless speaker converter topic? I assume the Denon is just fine. For the rear speakers, get something like an Audioengine W3, or something similar (like this, which is less expensive: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=10247). You'll need to use preamplifier outputs from the receiver, and your rear speakers will either have to be active or you'll need a dedicated amplifier for them.
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# ? Oct 9, 2015 08:38 |
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That Denon receiver looks real nice, as far as I an tell. I've been enjoying my Denon X4000. It should be able to account for any lag in the rear speakers from the wireless when you do calibration.
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# ? Oct 9, 2015 16:26 |
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After several months of waiting for Amazon price drops, I finally have my stuff set up. (I know you hate my TV placement.) Polk RTi A1 fronts, Polk CSi A4 center, and a Denon E400 receiver. Sounds good! What I notice most over the TV speakers is the bass. I'm still not used to the thumping; I keep thinking someone is stomping around upstairs. I plan to switch back to the TV speakers in a month or two just for fun to see what it sounds like after I get used to these speakers. The receiver is almost what I hoped it would be. I need analog upconversion, which limited my options. My biggest disappointment is that an input can only be assigned to one output at a time. I wish there was a way to arbitrarily assign any audio and video input combination into its own preset. But it's only a quick trip through the settings if I want to listen to music while playing a video game, so it's good enough. Overall, pretty happy. The next improvement will be a subwoofer. Even with the improved bass, I can tell music would sound better with even more. I'm planning to go with the BIC F12, which is in my price range and has been getting stellar reviews.
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# ? Oct 21, 2015 01:44 |
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ColdPie posted:Overall, pretty happy. The next improvement will be a subwoofer. Even with the improved bass, I can tell music would sound better with even more. I'm planning to go with the BIC F12, which is in my price range and has been getting stellar reviews. The Polk Polk PSW505 is on sale on newegg for $188 right now which is arguably better than the BIC F12 for about the same or very slightly less money. Brain Issues fucked around with this message at 10:59 on Oct 21, 2015 |
# ? Oct 21, 2015 10:57 |
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Yeah, I compared the two and the F12 seems to get better reviews.
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# ? Oct 21, 2015 12:18 |
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# ? Jun 3, 2024 18:19 |
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okay so im really just looking for a system that will let me watch movies/play games with better sound quality and so that i can actually hear the dialogue (if I'm watching something with dialogue, I almost always have to wear headphones because my hearing is bad/my TV speakers are bad). Judging from what I've read, I'd definitely want to go with a receiver instead of a sound bar, as I"ve read most of those don't tend to have a channel dedicated to dialogue (unless I've misunderstood how channels work, the totality of my knowledge of home audio systems started yesterday). Ideally, and I mean really Ideally, I get away with spending 200-250 on a solution that gives me good (enough) sound for movies and video games; if thats not possible, would anyone mind advising me on what I should expect to spend on an acceptable system for my needs?
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# ? Oct 22, 2015 10:25 |