|
I have an outside outlet at my house. I plan on putting up a pergola above a nice area in my back yard for a sitting area. Can I just run conduit underground and tap it into the outside outlet? The outlet is a GFI outlet in a standard outdoor box.
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2015 14:30
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 23:22 |
|
|
I had posted previously about replacing a fluorescent fixture with 4 can lights. What kind of Romex do I need for this? It looks like there are quite a few different gauges/varieties. I'm in Alabama if it matters. Thanks, this thread is always a great source of information.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2015 01:29
|
|
|
Safety Dance posted:It may well be. Building code requires that all wires run through conduit. If the conduit itself is grounded and the junction box is metal, does that mean that there's a path to the ground through the screws that hold the outlet to the box? Yep. Metal conduit is an approved grounding path if it's grounded. Oh, and you use self grounding outlets. Those are the ones with the spring that always push one of their screws against their frames for a constant grounding path. chef posted:Welp, my idiot buddy sprayed over the bare wires I had exposed in my bedroom when I disconnected the baseboard heaters and outlets on conduit to paint. I can pull them out enough to identify the original colors to match my diagrams, but I don't think I can pull them out enough to cut the painted sections off as there was not much slack to begin with. I'll try to strip the paint as best I can, but is the paint on wires a fire hazard or something that happens all the time? It's Sherwin Williams Superpaint which is an acrylic latex if that matters. Paint is OK on wire sheaths. About the only place it isn't OK is inside light sockets, wire junctions and outlet slots. Don't paint over outlets! AFewBricksShy posted:I have an outside outlet at my house. I plan on putting up a pergola above a nice area in my back yard for a sitting area. Yep, but you will need to use UF cable from that box to the one farther out. I'd have to look up the table for how deep it must be, but it's pretty shallow. Use an outdoor extension surface box if your existing GFCI is flush with the surface. That will give you a nice, clean, sealed box with a knock out to run conduit down to the dirt from. Also use weather resistant, tamper resistant outlets, and probably in use covers for both. Rubiks Pubes posted:I had posted previously about replacing a fluorescent fixture with 4 can lights. What kind of Romex do I need for this? It looks like there are quite a few different gauges/varieties. I'm in Alabama if it matters. Thanks, this thread is always a great source of information. What amperage is the existing circuit that you will be branching off of? Look at the breaker in the panel. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 04:12 on Aug 26, 2015 |
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2015 03:49
|
|
|
Q1: What do you guys think about 4/0 aluminum for 200A service going 9ft from weather head to main panel. NEC says 4/0 is good for 180A. Reading online folks seem to say its fine so long as its residential and not commercial. Q2: Whats the proper way to connect PVC conduit to the bottom of an exterior panel? Male threaded adapter alone enough or does it need a gasket or other water tight method? (this is for 2"). Q3: What's the deal with reduced neutral? Ive heard going two sizes smaller is permissible so long as theres not an expected continuous load near ampacity. Q4: When sizing a ground, is it correct it need not be larger than the GEC? (in my case #4) Q5: How difficult do you consider pulling large wire near fill capacity of conduit? (2"). Ive read its a bitch and better to go up a size...its just that 2" is $6 a stick and 2.5" is $12! I'd ask my inspector all these questions but this county is a drat joke, you can't get a hold of anyone
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2015 05:14
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:Paint is OK on wire sheaths. About the only place it isn't OK is inside light sockets, wire junctions and outlet slots. Don't paint over outlets! When you say junctions, do you mean where wire meets something else ( wire, outlet etc.) Im going to try to get the paint of the copper anyhow, just want to know how anal I have to be.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2015 06:52
|
|
|
chef posted:What about on the bare copper wire? I didn't cap these since I flipped the breaker, so there is paint on the copper. You'll want to clean up the ends since paint isn't exactly conductive. Assuming your paint isn't oil-based, it should mostly just peal off. Try some acetone if it's stubborn and not oil-based.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2015 16:50
|
|
|
rekamso posted:You'll want to clean up the ends since paint isn't exactly conductive. If they're solid copper, a quick wipe with any kind of sandpaper should break up whatever is on there just fine.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2015 18:45
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:
15 amps
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2015 16:29
|
|
|
Rubiks Pubes posted:15 amps 14 gauge NM should be perfect for your situation. You can get it from any hardware store. You can use thicker cable if you want, it would just be more expensive. Just remember, thicker cables have lower gauge numbers. chef posted:When you say junctions, do you mean where wire meets something else ( wire, outlet etc.) Junctions means where wires are twisted together and screw terminals. All bonds must be metal-on-metal without paint in between. That being said, if the paint is on the sheath or on a bare ground wire away from the bond, that should be fine. PS, you should see wiring in boxes at new construction when the paint is sprayed on. Sometimes it's difficult to figure out which wire is the one that's actually white. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 19:23 on Aug 27, 2015 |
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2015 19:15
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:14 gauge NM should be perfect for your situation. You can get it from any hardware store. You can use thicker cable if you want, it would just be more expensive. Just remember, thicker cables have lower gauge numbers. Thank you so much!
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2015 02:27
|
|
|
Does anyone have a good resource for buying barrel plugs/barrel jacks/coaxial power connectors/whatever you want to call them online? These are what I'm talking about http://www.amazon.com/5-5mm-2-5mm-Power-Barrel-Connectors/dp/B00FHHV096/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1440968666&sr=8-1&keywords=barrel+plug I have battery packs that have barrel connectors already soldered to them, but I can't find matching female connectors online anywhere. It looks like the size of the male connector is 3.4mm outer diameter and I think 1.3mm inner diameter, and I can't seem to find these anywhere. Is there a good resource of this kind of thing that I'm missing? I'm not very well versed in the world of electronics.
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2015 22:07
|
|
|
Digikey, almost certainly.
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2015 22:08
|
|
|
Deadite posted:Does anyone have a good resource for buying barrel plugs/barrel jacks/coaxial power connectors/whatever you want to call them online? These are what I'm talking about http://www.amazon.com/5-5mm-2-5mm-Power-Barrel-Connectors/dp/B00FHHV096/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1440968666&sr=8-1&keywords=barrel+plug We have an electronics thread here in DIY. They have a couple good suppliers linked in their OP, like Digikey as mentioned. I'm on mobile, otherwise I'd post a link. That being said, for weird size barrel connectors, try Radio Shack. Yes, really. They have an alphabetic system for their own sizes that other sellers online don't have. I found a barrel connector there for a portable radio from the 1960s when nobody else had one.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2015 00:10
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:try Radio Shack Good luck with that!  And even when it was an option, you could buy the same part at digikey or mouser for 1/10th or 1/100th the price at radioshack.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2015 00:30
|
|
|
Yeah, I tried RadioShack and the guy working there only had 5.5mm connectors, and when I asked if they sold anything else online he just kind of shrugged. When I checked their website they weren't selling anything online at all. Even digikey doesn't seem to carry 3.4mm connectors, so I'm completely stumped. The place that sells the battery pack must get the plugs from somewhere, but they aren't returning my e-mails.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2015 00:53
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:Good luck with that! ...except Digikey or Mouser don't have the really really obscure sizes, while Radio Shack does. But you're right, they're a rip off and I'd only go there for weird size barrel connectors. Deadite posted:Yeah, I tried RadioShack and the guy working there only had 5.5mm connectors, and when I asked if they sold anything else online he just kind of shrugged. When I checked their website they weren't selling anything online at all. Radio Shack plug sizes Go to another Radio Shack and get some size H plugs.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2015 01:47
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:...except Digikey or Mouser don't have the really really obscure sizes, while Radio Shack does. But you're right, they're a rip off and I'd only go there for weird size barrel connectors. ...except radioshack went bankrupt and closed up, except for a few places (~1700 of the 4000) that got bought up by Sprint, I think? but aren't staying in the parts biz anymore, unless you're lucky and find one that still has some trays with actual parts in them. That is why I said good luck.  The whole "going out of business" sale on parts was pretty insanely comical, too, largely because they'd have signs up screaming "90% off!!!!" and you could still buy ten of the parts on digikey for less, which really highlights just how absurd their pricing was. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 01:59 on Aug 31, 2015 |
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2015 01:56
|
|
|
I dunno if I should put this here (since I ignored given advice), but I figured it's worth sharing my experience. I'm a glutton for punishment anyhow. After a year and a half here, my shop finally has working lights! Against probably sound advice, I made the questionable decision to replace the non functional t12 8' fa8 pin lamps, with LED retrofit bulbs. The advice I was given was to retrofit to t8 bulbs and ballasts, but for various reasons, I decided that the new generation chinesium LEDs were worth a shot (they feature the newer SMD 2835 chip, which is just plain better in every measurement) I ordered one bulb back in the spring to try, and was impressed but waited to pull the trigger. Dunno if it had anything to do with the drop in the Chinese currency, but I happened to check prices right afterward and they have a deal for 30 8' bulbs at $563 shipped. So, like half price of most anywhere else. Anyhow I'm very happy with their performance. Dunno what to compare it against, but it's very bright in there. At 240v they pull 3.3 amps per leg for 22 bulbs. Cool white with a clear lens. The small office has two working t12 fixtures and they look like some mickey mouse bullshit next to the new lights. I've got enough extras to retrofit some other areas and have some spares.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2015 06:45
|
|
|
Very cool. I'm interested to see what their light decay performance is like. Depending on the drivers, you may hit the 70% brightness point in as little as a year. (Philips and CREE spec 80,000 hours minimum to 70% brightness).
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2015 11:58
|
|
|
Well their claim is "less than 3% in 30,000 hours", lifetime of >50,000 hrs, so I hope they don't go that quickly! They are third party tested by a (Chinese) lab that claims ISO/IEC 17025, so how reliable that is I dunno.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2015 14:33
|
|
|
Say I have a 200A main disconnect mounted outside receiving service. Can I add extra lugs to that box and run _two_ feeders from it to interior panels? (one on the same building, the other at a separate building). The feeders would be protected by main CBs at each panel Edit: I ended up buying an 8 space meter combo panel so the above no longer applies but still curious about the answer if anyone knows dwoloz fucked around with this message at 06:12 on Sep 4, 2015 |
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2015 17:54
|
|
|
I think it depends on if the disconnect was designed to allow multiple lug installation. As far as I'm concerned, you made the right decision. Get your electric service protected by a breaker at the earliest point possible. Utility fault current (and arc flash) doesn't play.
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2015 16:56
|
|
|
I hate my white collar job. Some of the things you have to do to make a profit are morally hazy at best and working at a computer all day is making me feel like a sack of poo poo. I'm considering making a go at becoming an electrician. First, though, I want to do some study on my own to make sure it's a good fit. I loved the little bit of wiring/circuits I got to do in school but I don't know anything about theory/safety/methodology and all that. Is there a good resource to look into? More to the point, what are the odds a 28 year old guy with a bachelors can get their foot in the door somewhere? I don't mind taking night classes while doing my day job for a while.
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2015 01:52
|
|
|
I started looking into whole house surge arrestors after flipping through my Black and Decker wiring book, and I was wondering if adding this particular unit would be adequate for a square D QO panel or whether I need an electrician to install additional protection at the meter?
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2015 04:28
|
|
|
OSU_Matthew posted:I started looking into whole house surge arrestors after flipping through my Black and Decker wiring book, and I was wondering if adding this particular unit would be adequate for a square D QO panel or whether I need an electrician to install additional protection at the meter? Those are the surge supressor thingies we add in occasionally in lightning-prone areas. I'm pretty sure we add one per leg, but that one appears to be a two-space unit covering both legs. They work well, but only work once. I know the instructions say they can work several times and self-reset, but in an actual lightning strike, the MOVs burn out and the thing needs to be replaced. Eifert Posting posted:Is there a good resource to look into? More to the point, what are the odds a 28 year old guy with a bachelors can get their foot in the door somewhere? I don't mind taking night classes while doing my day job for a while. There's a near 100% chance than anyone with a work ethic and the ability to follow simple written and spoken english instructions can be a competent electrician. Almost all of the really useful stuff is on-the-job training, so look into finding an "electrician's helper" job. With a bachelor's, you'll probably be smarter than the person you're working for, but you'll be a MUCH worse electrician. Knowledge and skill, not intelligence, make a good tradesman, so pay attention to the person you're working with/for. If you like it, look into getting an apprenticeship job. You likely won't be able to get your license until you have a certain number of on-the-job hours; standard working schedules and hour requirements in most states mean about three to four years of steady work until you're eligible to take your test.
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2015 04:40
|
|
|
I wish real apprenticeships existed in SC. I loved the work, but with no unions here it's a poo poo career. I left after 4 years for the utility industry. Still no real formal training, but the compensation is a lot better.
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2015 05:35
|
|
|
OSU_Matthew posted:I started looking into whole house surge arrestors after flipping through my Black and Decker wiring book, and I was wondering if adding this particular unit would be adequate for a square D QO panel or whether I need an electrician to install additional protection at the meter? That surge protector would only protect against a surge over the power lines. I've actually had devices fried by lightning that came in the phone line and still got my power surge-protected PC over the non-protected network cable. It still worked, kinda. The network and graphics cards were fried and it wouldn't boot if anything was plugged into the network card's old slot on the motherboard. You may want to get an external surge protector for your panel that also protects your coax and phone lines, or get that protector you're looking at and also some quality coax and phone surge protectors. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 19:03 on Sep 7, 2015 |
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2015 19:01
|
|
|
Make sure the lines coming into your home are properly grounded as well.
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2015 02:02
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:That surge protector would only protect against a surge over the power lines. I've actually had devices fried by lightning that came in the phone line and still got my power surge-protected PC over the non-protected network cable. It still worked, kinda. The network and graphics cards were fried and it wouldn't boot if anything was plugged into the network card's old slot on the motherboard. You may want to get an external surge protector for your panel that also protects your coax and phone lines, or get that protector you're looking at and also some quality coax and phone surge protectors. Thanks! I was figuring I'd pick up a coax surge protector for my modem, since that's the only other external wiring connected in the house.
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2015 15:46
|
|
|
For EM/RF shielding to work most optimally, it needs to be grounded. How would that work for something without an actual ground connection (a quadcopter)? Connecting it to the battery "ground" (negative pole)? Or just not at all, since there is no actual ground connection?
Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 15:15 on Sep 12, 2015 |
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2015 15:12
|
|
|
You might want to ask in either the electronics thread or the amateur radio thread, both here in DIY.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2015 19:30
|
|
|
babyeatingpsychopath posted:Those are the surge supressor thingies we add in occasionally in lightning-prone areas. I'm pretty sure we add one per leg, but that one appears to be a two-space unit covering both legs. They work well, but only work once. I know the instructions say they can work several times and self-reset, but in an actual lightning strike, the MOVs burn out and the thing needs to be replaced. This is all spot on. I'm 29 with a bacholer's in engineering and I just started as an electrician apprentice about a month and a half ago. Requirements for a license vary from state to state; Colorado, for example, is four years of classes (572 hours) and four years (8000 hours) of on the job experience.
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2015 14:36
|
|
|
Forgot about this thread and posted in the Fix it Fast thread. Cross-post + new question. Some updates since the last post. Just bought the house, built in 1947. Kitchen was remodeled but no GFCI's installed. I bought a 3 pack but that is a project for another post. Replacing a incandescent dimmer switch: It all fit when I took it apart. LED compatible dimmer installed to hopefully remove flicker. It worked, one isolated light still flickers. I think I'm just going to take out the bulb for now until I can work up the willpower to hire an electrician to crawl in the attic. We know from the inspection it's missing the cover on the box. Replacing a incandescent dimmer switch which was hooked up to a fan (thanks!) with a light switch. Is it possible to add a grounding wire while I have it open or is that a silly idea because what would it even ground to?  Update: Switch installed, fan struggling noises and LED light flicker are gone. Turns out there are 2 outlets, 8 recessed halogens, an outside porch light, 3 fans w/ quad lights, and 5 other misc light fixtures on this 15A breaker. It spans all 3 bedrooms, the living/dining room, and the laundry room. All bulbs have been replaced with LEDs now (see first dimmer switch.) I haven' tested any other outlets yet for fear of finding more things hooked up. Same circuit, wanted to flip a light switch so up was on. Please tell me this isn't just cloth insulated wire:  This room also has the last 2-prong in the house. I see from the original post that I should throw a GFCI in there, I will do that soon.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2015 01:56
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:Forgot about this thread and posted in the Fix it Fast thread. Cross-post + new question. Some updates since the last post. Just bought the house, built in 1947. Kitchen was remodeled but no GFCI's installed. I bought a 3 pack but that is a project for another post. Don't forget your tamper resistant GFCIs in the kitchen. As for the LED flicker, have you tried swapping around bulbs yet? Maybe you got a dud. Adding a ground is always possible. Look up my thread linked in the OP about adding 3 prong outlets. There are a couple tests in there for seeing if your existing stuff is already grounded. That cable looks like early NM. It has a woven cloth outer cover with a rubber(?) inner cover. From your grounding question switch, you see that rubber tape covering the wire joint? From my own experience, if you cut that stuff off, do not let it touch a wood floor. It is like a shoe scuff mark from hell.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2015 18:00
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:Don't forget your tamper resistant GFCIs in the kitchen. Awesome, thanks. I have a 3-pack of tamper resistant leviton 'smartlockpro' gfci's I originally bought for the kitchen. Might need more, depends on the mysteries behind the face plates in the kitchen. Now, one is going in the 2-prong and one in the back room behind the garage to plug the mower in (something something don't kill yourself when you run over the extension cord.) I will read the 2->3 prong conversion thread. The outside porch light on Ye Olde Longass Circuit flickers and dies. Removed the bulb and disassembled it, there is certainly a ground wire doing what they do best: Hanging out not connected to anything. Put it back together sans bulb because I didn't have the right tools to repair it at that very moment. The woven cloth is on some kind of rubber looking/feeling substance. Is there anything to be concerned with there? I know both fiber and rubber degrade over time. I'm going to assume it's original to the house putting it at 68 years old. Thanks for the tip on the tape, we do have hardwood.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2015 19:42
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:Awesome, thanks. I have a 3-pack of tamper resistant leviton 'smartlockpro' gfci's I originally bought for the kitchen. You should only need one GFCI outlet per circuit, since it detects ground faults on the entire circuit, not just for things that are plugged into it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2015 19:46
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:You should only need one GFCI outlet per circuit, since it detects ground faults on the entire circuit, not just for things that are plugged into it. You may overestimate how much circuit tracing I want to do, unless this it's out of code for me to add them excessively? (All accessible.) I haven't mapped my entire breaker box yet, so I don't know if I have 1 or 2 breakers covering the kitchen.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2015 19:59
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:The outside porch light on Ye Olde Longass Circuit flickers and dies. Removed the bulb and disassembled it, there is certainly a ground wire doing what they do best: Hanging out not connected to anything. Put it back together sans bulb because I didn't have the right tools to repair it at that very moment. For flickering lights, turn off the circuit, then with a flathead screwdriver, ever so slightly bend up the tab at the bottom of the socket. They tend to get smashed down over the years and eventually don't make good contact anymore. Optionally, you can replace the socket for like 5 bucks. Unless the insulation is deteriorated to the point that it's falling off, it should be fine. H110Hawk posted:You may overestimate how much circuit tracing I want to do, unless this it's out of code for me to add them excessively? (All accessible.) I haven't mapped my entire breaker box yet, so I don't know if I have 1 or 2 breakers covering the kitchen. Well, you can use GFCI outlets to protect further down the branch. There are a few circumstances where you actually might not want to GFCI protect an outlet. Older fridges can possibly trip a GFCI with a false positive. The same goes for other older appliances. Anything made in the past 10 years should be fine though. Plus, there is the "accessible" requirement for GFCIs. Legally, you must always be able to reach them while standing on the floor, without moving anything out of the way first. In a kitchen, that means you will need to figure something else out for outlets behind major appliances: the fridge, stove, etc. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Sep 21, 2015 |
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2015 22:47
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:You should only need one GFCI outlet per circuit, since it detects ground faults on the entire circuit, not just for things that are plugged into it. The gfci will only trip for faults down stream. Given an older house it may have runs in parallel. My old house (1920s) had runs in the attic to each room that then split and had seperate runs to each wall.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2015 02:19
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 23:22 |
|
|
I went ahead and pulled the meter and installed a 200A main breaker for my electric panel yesterday. Whole process was fairly straightforward, and easier than I thought it'd be. However, I did have a few questions, that, while I'm not overly concerned at the moment, I was hoping someone could provide clarification on. There appears to be a black sticky mass on the rear of the panel, which I'm assuming came from the grease coating the service entrance wires. I'm assuming it's dielectric grease to improve the connection? It seems to have oozed out over the back and top of the breakers, leaving a thin sticky film. Should I be concerned?  Again, apologies for the crummy picture, but I was wondering about the service entrance wires, specifically the neutral. Is it normal that it doesn't have a sheathing? Did the original installer cheap out and substitute the ground for a neutral, and the SE neutral for the second hot 120v phase? I'll take a picture of the service entrance mast head if necessary, but I only see the two incoming hot wires, no neutral,  What's the verdict, am I over thinking things?
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2015 04:07
|
|