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I've driven both automatic and manual versions of my car - the automatics were literally dangerously slow to downshift when you stomped on it (had a rental Cobalt for a month - I drat near got smeared into a barrier when I changed lanes to pass a broken down car on the highway), while the manual version doesn't show any real lag. The automatic just sat there, and decided "okay, I'm going to shift into 3rd now"... "wait, your foot is still planted? WHY ARE YOU DOING THIS TO ME? FINE, I'll drop into 2nd!" followed by "gently caress YOU, CAN'T YOU SEE I'M BUSY READING A BOOK HERE?!" about 5 seconds from stomping the throttle, and it finally dropped into 1st. Probably more like 2-3 seconds, but I still had a truck that was all set to slam me into a wall even though I was literally standing on the throttle. That said, I fully agree with EightBit. DBW, when implemented correctly, really eliminates a ton of crap, both in the ECU and in the actual electrical stuff on the engine. No need for a fast idle valve, no need for a idle air control valve, no need for a separate cruise control module, no need for a throttle cable (which probably costs more to manufacture than a few wires). My favorite part of DBW is the fact that the car has a cold idle just a hair higher than warm idle - about 900 RPM while cold on my car, jumps to about 1500 for a split second after it fires up - so in theory, it may even contribute to less to cold start wear. Too bad most companies have really hosed up DBW. I'm going to guess GM implemented a more strict throttle response on the manual versions? 
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Sep 18, 2015 06:58
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As far as I can tell manufacturers have left manual DBW mostly linear because it would be a shitshow otherwise. On automatics they've just gone to town with strange responses. The Camry is the worst offender for this. 20% throttle at 3/4 pedal followed immediately by a screaming V6 hauling rear end is exactly what I wanted trying to exit a mall parking lot, Toyota.
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Sep 18, 2015 07:03
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FWIW, I actually really enjoyed the Camry I test drove before getting my current car. ... it was a 5 speed manual coupled with the V6. It just smoked the (rock hard, ancient as poo poo) tires if you even sneezed in its direction. Too bad they wanted almost triple what it was actually worth, it was one hell of a sleeper. Upside is I probably would have spent a shitload of money on power upgrades by now, so not getting it has saved me some money.
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Sep 18, 2015 07:09
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235/50/17 will fit fine on a stock 7.5" wheel right? Going from 225/55/17 and can't find the tires I want in that size.
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Sep 18, 2015 18:10
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Bovril Delight posted:235/50/17 will fit fine on a stock 7.5" wheel right? Going from 225/55/17 and can't find the tires I want in that size.
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Sep 18, 2015 19:35
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Which Hondas have the glass automatic transmissions to be avoided?
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Sep 18, 2015 21:44
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some texas redneck posted:no need for a throttle cable (which probably costs more to manufacture than a few wires). Also tbh, technically 'cable' and 'wire' mean the same thing so depending on wording in the law or whatever that required it, 'drive by wire' could be interpreted to mean a wire from the pedal to the throttle that pulls on a spring-loaded lever on the throttle body when you push the pedal and therefore is the means by which the car drives Friar Zucchini fucked around with this message at 21:53 on Sep 18, 2015 |
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Sep 18, 2015 21:49
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Looks like my check engine light on my 2010 Chevy Traverse came on and I got the emissions system leak code which normally means the gas cap came loose or did not seal completely in my experience. Now is there any way to clear the codes from my car to ensure it was just the gas cap or do I need to have a dealer do it? Google has not came up with much and I do not think disconnecting the battery does any good.
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Sep 18, 2015 22:26
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Disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 30 seconds to a minute will fully reset the ECU and clear any codes, however it will also put the computer back into an unready monitor state if you have any emissions tests to pass and you'll have to complete a drive cycle before you can pass.
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Sep 18, 2015 22:39
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Geoj posted:Disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 30 seconds to a minute will fully reset the ECU and clear any codes, however it will also put the computer back into an unready monitor state if you have any emissions tests to pass and you'll have to complete a drive cycle before you can pass. I'll have to give that a shot, for some reason I thought that trick didn't work on newer model cars and I needed a code reader.
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Sep 19, 2015 00:13
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Here's a stupid question: can i get a rundown on the differences between ABS/Delrin/rubber motor/trans mounts and bushings? It's coming time to do all of those on my e30 and I keep hearing conflicting information, particularly on the differences between ABS/Delrin and how "liveable" they are for a daily driver. Car's daily driven. I would like less body roll and better handling but it's not a racecar. The roads are pretty good up here, but I quite enjoy the lack of vibrations when my car idles. The lifespan isn't a big deal except for the rear suspension bushings, which are a total BITCH to access. Would going delrin suspension bushings with fresh new rubber motor/trans mounts be a horrible idea for a street car?
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Sep 19, 2015 01:12
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Do rubber – better regretting not going far enough than going too far, in my opinion. And in a daily driver, less NVH > more performance – how much are you going to push it anyway? If you want less body roll, get a better sway bar – way more bang for your buck in that regard than bushings. But in any matter of suspension, the diminishing returns are very diminishing, and I think you're probably more likely to regret non-rubber bushings than not. The one non OEM bushing I have really liked are the Meyle HDs on my e39's thrust arms. But really, I'll be installing the OEM oil-filled bushings soon and I'll have a chance to "compare" in a more real way than before when the pre-Meyle HD bushings were shot. Pretty Boy Floyd fucked around with this message at 05:06 on Sep 19, 2015 |
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Sep 19, 2015 04:57
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opengl128 posted:Which Hondas have the glass automatic transmissions to be avoided? 97-04 V6 models. As late as an 05 depending who you listen to, and as early as 95 on some models. The automatics behind the 4 cylinder were usually fine, as long as they saw some form of maintenance.
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Sep 19, 2015 06:51
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some texas redneck posted:97-04 V6 models. As late as an 05 depending who you listen to, and as early as 95 on some models. Oof. Okay. So CR-V's should generally be ok? Looking for something like that, maybe an Accord wagon.
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Sep 19, 2015 14:21
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From what I have seen online and with my own cars, the service intervals on the K24 series auto trans is bullshit. Change the fluid like every 30-50k, not whatever garbage they tell you (I think the interval is like 75 or 100k?) This basically applies to modern honda manual transmissions too.
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Sep 19, 2015 15:49
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My CRV is asking for it's first transmission service on the next oil change. Looks like that'll be right around 60k. So is it just the filter in the cooler lines, no pan drop needed?
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Sep 19, 2015 18:53
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FogHelmut posted:Any thoughts on window chip repair kits? Most insurance companies will do chip repair for free, and send someone out with the proper equipment to make a good repair (that won't).
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Sep 19, 2015 22:33
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So turns out my issue was due to a piggyback ECU I installed about 5 years ago. All the splices to the harness were fine, but the module itself (which intercepts and modifies the O2 and MAF sensor signals) was putting out a bad MAF signal to the PCM; it was about 0.3V when the incoming MAF signal was like 1.7V. It modifies the signal at load, but shouldn't do anything to it at idle, so something's hosed inside the unit. Unplugged it and spliced the harness wires back together and it runs fine, if less peppy than before (the stock fuel map is garbage), but better than a non-functioning car. I guess something in it must have gotten hosed when I jumped it tuesday morning, it ran fine after getting started the night before. Thanks for being a sounding board, everyone!
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Sep 19, 2015 22:48
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Stupid question regarding a Kia: Girlfriend just bought an '07 Rio(in overall great shape for 112K), motor is the 1.6L G4ED. I was giving it the standard post-purchase once-over today and while I was regapping the plugs, found that the leftmost coil insert/spark tube was swimming in oil. The other 3 are not, they each just have a little bit of the black stuff on the sides of the coil assemblies degrading from heat in spots. Is this a sign that I need to change a gasket underneath the valve cover, or is it most likely that somebody just spilled oil into the tube at some point in the past while doing an oil change? As an aside, the plugs were all normal-to-slightly-lean when I regapped them(they weren't iridiums or platinums, just the plain NGK BRK5ES models) so it doesn't look like anything crazy is going on inside the engine that we didn't hear on the test drive. I'm likely going to have to install a new oil pan though, when I unscrewed the plug a few fragments of thread came out with the plug bolt. Thankfully this car seems to be an absolute dream to service compared to most vehicles I've worked with. Everything is made with the same 5 bolts, and looks to be arranged for generally good tool and hand access(thank loving god).
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Sep 20, 2015 00:51
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I discovered the other day that apparently my wheels are corroding and the tire came off the bead. Is there a way to repair them or do I have to buy new ones? Mazda 3 if that matters, I see this was a very common issue in the UK for some reason.
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Sep 20, 2015 03:01
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Anyone have anything bad to say about the 2015 Dodge Dart? I've had one for about 5 or so days while my truck is in the shop and I kinda love the little thing. I'm thinking about maybe getting one.
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Sep 20, 2015 04:30
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Had one as a rental on a business trip not too long ago and I wasn't impressed. It has a really slow automated manual for one, and the 2.0 was completely underpowered. I've heard the 2.4 is a bit better. I could not find a comfortable seating position either, but I'm 6'4'' so take that with a grain of salt. UConnect is pretty great though - it's one of the better infotainment systems out there. I've driven most of the cars in that class as rentals and a lot of them I thought were better to drive to be honest. I like the Mazda3 and Focus the most. There was nothing particularly awful with the Dart (super slow automated manual aside), but nothing I particularly loved either.
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Sep 20, 2015 04:53
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Senior Funkenstien posted:Anyone have anything bad to say about the 2015 Dodge Dart? I've had one for about 5 or so days while my truck is in the shop and I kinda love the little thing. I'm thinking about maybe getting one. We have a 14 Dart for a fleet car. It'll be "great" for about 6 months to a year. The thing feels so worn out now, it's ridiculous. Granted, it is a fleet vehicle, but it has aged considerably worse than our other fleet vehicles (e.g. Malibu, Fusion). Don't buy it. Also, don't buy Chrysler in general.
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Sep 20, 2015 04:59
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totalnewbie posted:We have a 14 Dart for a fleet car. I was hoping I wouldnt hear that but thanks. The rental I have is brand new so it feels fast and comfy but I guess thats temporary. This one has 5k miles on it so its pretty new.
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Sep 20, 2015 05:04
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So I bled my brakes by myself for the first time. Other than all the cursing, leaky fittings on the Motive Power Bleeder, and all the cancer I gave myself touching brake fluid, it went well. Now, what do I do with the jar of dark old brake fluid? Does the auto parts store take it?
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Sep 20, 2015 05:05
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I've never seen one that will. Most cities have some kind of hazmat collection facility (might be called a transfer station) where they'll collect all the random poo poo you're not supposed to throw away/dump. Chemicals, smoke detectors, etc.
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Sep 20, 2015 05:28
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Godholio posted:I've never seen one that will. Most cities have some kind of hazmat collection facility (might be called a transfer station) where they'll collect all the random poo poo you're not supposed to throw away/dump. Chemicals, smoke detectors, etc. Sometimes labeled "household hazardous waste".
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Sep 20, 2015 06:01
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CharlesM posted:I discovered the other day that apparently my wheels are corroding and the tire came off the bead. Is there a way to repair them or do I have to buy new ones?  levels of rusting out, I really want to see a photo, and you need new wheels.Anyway, yes, it's very common. I blame the salt on the roads in winter for making it worse here. Often initiates where someone's fitted a clip-on balance weight. The corrosion expands out and pushes the bead away so it doesn't seal any more. To properly fix it, you need the tyre off, and to use a wire wheel etc to remove it all from where the tyre seats, any tyre place should be able to sort you out (you can't really pull or refit the tyre yourself, so you may as well get them to do it). If the wheels are a bit shabby anyway, and you were considering refurbishing them, now would be the time.
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Sep 20, 2015 10:55
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InitialDave posted:I assume you mean that corrosion around the rim has pushed the tyre bead back a little, creating a leak? Because if it's actually come off, that's Well I don't remember exactly what they said. It was leaking for sure. The wheel doesn't look bad at all from the outside. They don't use salt here so it's weird. The tire shop said I would have to buy new wheels so maybe I should ask around? They're just OEM Mazda wheels though.
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Sep 20, 2015 11:35
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06 SS/SC cobalt has steering wheel shake and front end vibration between 60-75 mph. I have gotten new tires (balanced), brakes and rotors to try to fix it, but the problem persists. Both wheels spin freely in the air. Driver's front CV boot makes a slight rubber squeaking as the rubber flexes as it turns. There is no play in the wheels when I jack it up and twist from top to bottom and side to side. I might go back to the tire shop and ask for a rebalance, but the old tires did the same thing.
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Sep 20, 2015 16:51
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CharlesM posted:Well I don't remember exactly what they said. It was leaking for sure. The wheel doesn't look bad at all from the outside. They don't use salt here so it's weird. The tire shop said I would have to buy new wheels so maybe I should ask around? They're just OEM Mazda wheels though. If they're steel wheels then you should just get some new ones, they aren't expensive. If they're alloys, they're fixable. Google an alloy wheel reconditioner, there's bound to be one in your town. Usually much cheaper per wheel than brand new rims.
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Sep 20, 2015 19:53
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Slavvy posted:If they're steel wheels then you should just get some new ones, they aren't expensive. If they're alloys, they're fixable. Google an alloy wheel reconditioner, there's bound to be one in your town. Usually much cheaper per wheel than brand new rims. If you're just swapping them you may be able to find a used set on CL for cheaper than someone who refinishes wheels.
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Sep 20, 2015 20:40
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2001 Toyota Echo 4 cyl 101,000 miles. I drove to the grocery store and the car was running fine. I come back 20 minutes later and turn on the ignition and the car is shaking back and forth it get worse when I put it in drive and much better in neutal. The check engine light comes on and I get the code and it is P303 which is cylinder 3 is misfiring. A couple of hours later I start up the car again to see and it is running fine. I figure maybe just a fluke but decide to change the spark plugs since they have never been changed only $24 and a half hour of my time. So I drive too and from work (9-5) and everything is running fine. I go again to do errands and it happens again but this time halfway on my drive home it goes away. I then tested it in my driveway. I turned it off and started it up and it was fine. Then I waited 20 minutes and the same shaking behavior occurs. I start it up again 2 and a half hours later and it starts up fine. It seems like if the engine has enough time to cool down between starts it runs fine.
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Sep 20, 2015 22:27
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I don't know about echo's in paricular in terms of how the coil is set up, but sounds like your coil could be going to poo poo I've had cars where they ran like crap becuase once the engine gets hot the coil starts to fail.
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Sep 20, 2015 22:35
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tater_salad posted:I don't know about echo's in paricular in terms of how the coil is set up, but sounds like your coil could be going to poo poo I've had cars where they ran like crap becuase once the engine gets hot the coil starts to fail. Yeah could be. Looked on youtube a bit re failing ignition coil on Toyotas will throw a P30x code cylinder misfire. God it is so easy to repair just unplug the old one and plug in the new one. Lowtechs fucked around with this message at 22:56 on Sep 20, 2015 |
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Sep 20, 2015 22:42
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Rythe posted:Now is there any way to clear the codes from my car to ensure it was just the gas cap or do I need to have a dealer do it? Google has not came up with much and I do not think disconnecting the battery does any good. OBDC code readers http://www.amazon.com/b?node=15707381 You can read and delete codes.
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Sep 20, 2015 23:49
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Slavvy posted:If they're steel wheels then you should just get some new ones, they aren't expensive. If they're alloys, they're fixable. Google an alloy wheel reconditioner, there's bound to be one in your town. Usually much cheaper per wheel than brand new rims. It looks like there is a well-rated wheel repair shop around. I just was afraid they had to be replaced because that's what the guy at the store said. I'll see if they're cheaper than buying a new set of wheels. Otherwise it's time for some lightweight RPF1s.  Thank you.
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Sep 21, 2015 01:13
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Weird question. My roommate drives a 2006 Acura (TL I think? not sure) and today while I was at work he said he went outside and all of his windows were all the way down and the sunroof was open. As far as he could tell nobody had messed with any of his stuff (nothing valuable in there to steal really). He figured he had just forgotten to lock it until I mentioned that normally power windows don't work without the key in the ignition. He had his keys on him all day and we went and found his spare key on his dresser covered in dust. There weren't any panels removed or exposed wires so if someone tore it open and hosed with the electrical system they were nice enough to put it back together nicely. Any idea how someone could have done this? Is there a secret way to turn on accessory power or could another key from a similar car do it if someone happened to have one? Our only theory is that the car is haunted 
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Sep 21, 2015 03:29
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Is it the original battery?
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Sep 21, 2015 03:40
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ghetto wormhole posted:Weird question. My roommate drives a 2006 Acura (TL I think? not sure) and today while I was at work he said he went outside and all of his windows were all the way down and the sunroof was open. As far as he could tell nobody had messed with any of his stuff (nothing valuable in there to steal really). He figured he had just forgotten to lock it until I mentioned that normally power windows don't work without the key in the ignition. He had his keys on him all day and we went and found his spare key on his dresser covered in dust. There weren't any panels removed or exposed wires so if someone tore it open and hosed with the electrical system they were nice enough to put it back together nicely. Acura remotes will roll windows down when you press unlock twice and then hold it down.
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Sep 21, 2015 03:42
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