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why does that welder exist
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Sep 16, 2015 23:32
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Ambrose Burnside posted:why does that welder exist It's your spirit animal.
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Sep 17, 2015 00:15
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I look at it as a very, very expensive mask and a lesson on human nature. edit: by the way, does something need to be plugged in during the "off" part of its duty cycle? Like, is it a "capacitors are charging" thing or more of a "poo poo's hot and needs to cool off" thing? DreadLlama fucked around with this message at 04:10 on Sep 17, 2015 |
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Sep 17, 2015 02:59
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Typically it's heat buildup. Hmm, If you submerge the whole thing in a bucket of mineral oil you might get 45 secs / 5mins out of it...
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Sep 17, 2015 09:19
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yeah the only reason I can see that welder existing as-is is it just lacks any cooling capacity whatsoever. the upside being, if you think it's worth the time, id bet you can probably get that thing up to a "bottom tier harbour freight" level of usability by just getting some cooling fan action going on
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Sep 17, 2015 14:04
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I bought a chunk of angled steel plate, and I would like to clean it up before I use it. What is a good way to get all of the stuff off of it that came from the foundry or whatever? It is a rough finish currently, and I would like to even it out a bit before I make it in to a bending jig. I thought maybe I could hit it with my fly cutter on my mill, but it is pretty big for my mill, and the noise would drive my co workers mental. I also would possibly like to paint it to keep it from rusting.
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Sep 18, 2015 02:18
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I could cut the case open, but I don't think I'd know what's going to get hot and needs to be cooled down. If I took the top off and posted pictures, could someone who knows what to look for tell me where fan would best go? Or should I just put it up on some 4x4s and point a box fan at it?
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Sep 18, 2015 05:21
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That appalling duty cycle may just be at its rated maximum amperage and will be better the lower you go. Adding some active cooling will help you get a bit more out of it. Post some more pics of the labelling on it.
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Sep 18, 2015 13:23
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Brekelefuw posted:I bought a chunk of angled steel plate, and I would like to clean it up before I use it. What is a good way to get all of the stuff off of it that came from the foundry or whatever? It is a rough finish currently, and I would like to even it out a bit before I make it in to a bending jig. I thought maybe I could hit it with my fly cutter on my mill, but it is pretty big for my mill, and the noise would drive my co workers mental. Have an angle grinder? Get a flap disk and a braided (not crimped) wire cup for it. Wear safety glasses, it'll fling wires thirty feet and embed in your chest. Flap disk will flatten out the light bumps easy. Dreadllama: fuckin  sorry man, that sucks.
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Sep 18, 2015 18:56
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Slung Blade posted:Have an angle grinder? Get a flap disk and a braided (not crimped) wire cup for it. Wear safety glasses, it'll fling wires thirty feet and embed in your chest. Flap disk will flatten out the light bumps easy. Don't have an angle grinder, but I do have an air hose connection with a rotary attachment at work.
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Sep 19, 2015 04:08
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Crossposting from the tools thread in AI: I decided I needed a service cart at work, but the affordable ones are garbage, and the good ones are too pricey. Fortunately for me, when we get scaffolding that is bent in one spot it is no longer usable even though the rest of it is perfectly fine, so I decided to combine that with some of the leftover stock plate steel we have just sitting around collecting rust. After a few hours of playing with the sawzall and welder, and I have this:    Probably the most heavy duty cart I've ever seen. The whole thing is 10 gauge steel, with the legs made out of steel scaffolding frames (I didn't realise two of them were galvanized until after I started, so I used an angle grinder to take off as much as I could from the spots I was welding). I didn't take a picture of the underside but the top table is supported by 1/8" thick 1" square steel tubing. The casters I stole from a new box, and are rated for 750 lbs each. So when you consider the safety factor built into scaffolding, I can probably get over 2 tons on it without buckling. Downside is that it weighs like 150lbs, but our shop and yard are pretty smooth, and the casters are 8", so it rolls no problem. Overkill? Maybe, but I got the materials for free, and I managed to sneak in a little bit of work at a time over a couple weeks so actually I got paid to make it. All in all it came out pretty good despite not having any kind of jig to hold it while welding or even a chop saw to make straight cuts. Painted green because Sunbelt:   
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Sep 19, 2015 05:13
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echomadman posted:That appalling duty cycle may just be at its rated maximum amperage and will be better the lower you go. This is exactly how duty cycle is rated. If you see a 600A welder and it has a 50% duty cycle that means 50% @ 600A. Down where you'll likely be welding (70 - 170A) duty cycle is going to be 100%. The lower a welder's max output the more important it is to have a 100% duty cycle. That being said, 2.5% duty cycle is 
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Sep 19, 2015 16:38
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I took more pictures of it: There's nothing special on the front, just the heat setting and on switch.  Normal safety warning about X-rays:  Rest of the side with the blurb about duty cycle:  Zoom on the technical bits:  I'm pretty sure this tells me whether I'm AC, vs. tip hot DC vs. tip ground DC. May as well be written in Italian. The outside cover is exhausted for information. Here's the insides:   edit: I can't imagine doing anything more to this welder besides pointing a fan at it. Because I still need to braze and the "torch" that came with my arc welder consisted of an acetylene regulator, a single torch and nothing else, I'm going to ask about gas now.  I understand that one does not buy little tanks of acetylene for the same reason that one does not buy MAP gas. So I'm not really keen on 10cu ft. acetylene tanks, but someone "near" me has a thing for sale. $135 for a torch with cutting and welding heads and mask but no tanks. Like "C" but for half the price. Is there any reason not to buy a backpack torch kit to put it on big tanks? DreadLlama fucked around with this message at 20:46 on Sep 19, 2015 |
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Sep 19, 2015 20:38
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DreadLlama posted:I took more pictures of it: The lack of a visible rectifier of any sort leads me to think that welder is AC only.
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Sep 20, 2015 03:30
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Are there any non-metal casting mold materials that I could use to pour liquid silver into and it not destroy it? Trying to make jewelry casting molds at home so the only equipment I have is an oven.
goodness fucked around with this message at 23:44 on Sep 20, 2015 |
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Sep 20, 2015 23:35
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I've roughly zero knowledge on the topic but could you make a 2-part plaster mold? It can handle up to 1200°C which should be well enough above the melting temp of silver maybe?
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 23:48 on Sep 20, 2015 |
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Sep 20, 2015 23:46
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Bad Munki posted:I've roughly zero knowledge on the topic but could you make a 2-part plaster mold? It can handle up to 1200°C which should be well enough above the melting temp of silver maybe? I didn't think something like plaster would be able to do it but that seems like it would work.
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Sep 20, 2015 23:51
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goodness posted:I didn't think something like plaster would be able to do it but that seems like it would work. Don't trust my word on any of that.
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Sep 20, 2015 23:59
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EKDS5k posted:Crossposting from the tools thread in AI: We have a bunch of the more expensive store bought ones at our shop, but that is beautiful, well done!
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Sep 21, 2015 00:12
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Any tips on hardening O1 tool steel? Bought some to make some taps and dies with. Was going to use either motor oil or some high flashpoint cooking oil to quench with, then temper in my over. Gonna buy some sort of propane plumbers tank to heat it with since my acetylene tips aren't big enough to get the metal glowing.
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Sep 21, 2015 00:13
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Brekelefuw posted:Any tips on hardening O1 tool steel? Bought some to make some taps and dies with. Was going to use either motor oil or some high flashpoint cooking oil to quench with, then temper in my over. You're on the right track. Plain SAE 30 motor oil works fine for quenching. The key thing is to get the steel hot enough that a strong magnet is no longer attracted to it, deep red or so. After hardening a test piece, see if you can file it. If not, success! If yes, get it a little hotter next time. I don't have any other tips that would be helpful to you, I'm afraid, since I've never tried to make a tap or die or, indeed, anything more complicated than a straight edge out of hardened tool steel.
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Sep 21, 2015 00:30
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If you can make taps and dies would it not be faster to cut the threads you want on the workpeice instead? Like its impressive that you can make those, it just seems kinda roundabout.
Samuel L. Hacksaw fucked around with this message at 05:32 on Sep 21, 2015 |
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Sep 21, 2015 04:38
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Random Number posted:If you can make taps and dies would it not be faster to cut the threads you want on the workpeice instead? Like its impressive that you can make those, it just seems kinda roundabout. The tap size I need to make is not a standard size. 19.1mm x 0.7 I also need to make an acorn die to cut threads in a hole that is much smaller diameter than a standard die will fit. Acorn dies and die holders are hard to find and cost a lot of money, so I figured I would just make my own. I am tapping brass only. Also Ambrose, can you tell me where to get some of that wool stuff people use to insulate while they are heating up metal? Is there a supplier in Toronto?
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Sep 21, 2015 11:33
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goodness posted:I didn't think something like plaster would be able to do it but that seems like it would work. I just watched a video about casting brass in plaster of paris. Wikipedia says silver melting temp is pretty close to brass so maybe it would work? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U2_F9-oQiQA
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Sep 21, 2015 13:23
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Brekelefuw posted:The tap size I need to make is not a standard size. 19.1mm x 0.7 Isn't that a UNS 3/4-40 thread?
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Sep 21, 2015 14:13
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oxbrain posted:Isn't that a UNS 3/4-40 thread? I looked up the dimensions again. I need to make 19.2 x .7 and 20.6 x .6 I never deal with threads at that size so I don't know if they have equivalents.
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Sep 21, 2015 16:13
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Brekelefuw posted:The tap size I need to make is not a standard size. 19.1mm x 0.7 Pottery Supply House in Oakville has just about everything you might need: http://www.psh.ca/index.php?cat_id=160 Their ITC-100 prices are very high (I mean, whose aren't) but they also have a Kaowool alternative + extra-sturdy firebricks rated 300 degrees hotter than standard forge refractory stuff is, which is a nice option. They don't know anything about forges or forge construction, though, ordering on the phone got real confusing because the guy didnt understand why I'd ever be subjecting their products to hotter than cone 10 and am I sure I know what I'm doing? e: IRT casting: lost-wax plaster casting is an extremely ancient and well-established casting technique for producing one-offs in pretty much any non-ferrous castable metal, it'll do you just fine. Google the process, any jewellery supply place will have everything you need. The molds are only usable once and destroy the wax positive model, but you can make lower-temp reusable silicone molds into which you cast wax, which lets you reproduce wax positives from a single original so you only have to carve the thing the first time. Two-part molds are technically usable for jewellery et al but really aren't ideal for most things- they produce castings that are much rougher in finish than plaster, and need extensive finishing work to get up to "jewellery quality". Two-part sand casting is preferred for larger aluminium and cuprous castings where finish isn't very important (sand tends to impart an "orange peel" texture, ime) and where the cost of using plaster would be prohibitive. I know there's a Delft clay process that's a sort of bridge between sand and plaster casting- reusable casting medium, two part molds, fine finish quality- but two-part molds are finicky enough in general that I wouldn't be in a rush to go back to them for small castings, unless I wanted to produce things from a positive model I didn't want to have to destroy or produce duplicates of. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 19:06 on Sep 21, 2015 |
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Sep 21, 2015 18:57
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Important safety tip. If you make a mold out of plaster or anything else that ever had water in it, you may need to bake all the moisture out of it before you pour molten metal into it. You do not want residual moisture turning into steam inside the mold after you've poured molten metal into it. Do your research on your mold material, and use caution especially the first time you try it out.
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Sep 21, 2015 19:21
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Or, alternately, use the power of steam flashing off for good, and force the metal into your molds with wet rags pressed firmly to the molten metal button (please do not actually try this without studying the method and required equipment in full)
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Sep 22, 2015 00:08
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I'm thinking about taking a 6 hour welding class through my local adult ed centre once my current uni term ends. Possible future projects I'd like to tackle would be fabricating a luggage rack for a motorbike, maybe some autobody stuff (patching rusty areas) down the line, or modifying a utility trailer to use as a base for a teardrop camper. From what I've read, sounds like I probably want to start out with stick welding? FWIW the place offers both stick and MIG classes and they cost the same.
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Sep 24, 2015 06:28
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Stick or MIG, yeah. Stick is cheaper and better-suited to working outdoors in less-than-ideal conditions, MIG is significantly easier to learn and a better choice for sheet or thinner materials. Arc welding is a little more dynamic in that you can get all sorts of specialized electrodes for specialty jobs like welding cast iron or whatever drat thing, MIG (with a shielding gas, which is a couple hundred more in equipment costs) can do very clean and spatter-free work that requires little clean-up. If doing auto body work is a significant component of what you wanna do, MIG is what you want- arc welding thin material is a nightmare if you're not good, from what I've heard. If you need to weld stuff outside with a MIG welder, a situation where you'd normally want an arc welder, you can ditch the gas bottle and switch to fluxcore wire and still do okay. So yeah, I think MIG is a better fit for your general needs and you'll be making quality welds faster, the catch is that the up-front equipment costs will be significantly higher.
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Sep 24, 2015 15:52
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Stick or MIG, yeah. Stick is cheaper and better-suited to working outdoors in less-than-ideal conditions, MIG is significantly easier to learn and a better choice for sheet or thinner materials. Arc welding is a little more dynamic in that you can get all sorts of specialized electrodes for specialty jobs like welding cast iron or whatever drat thing, MIG (with a shielding gas, which is a couple hundred more in equipment costs) can do very clean and spatter-free work that requires little clean-up. If doing auto body work is a significant component of what you wanna do, MIG is what you want- arc welding thin material is a nightmare if you're not good, from what I've heard. If you need to weld stuff outside with a MIG welder, a situation where you'd normally want an arc welder, you can ditch the gas bottle and switch to fluxcore wire and still do okay. Thanks for that writeup! I should have mentioned, cost is a significant factor at the moment and I'm currently carless, so transporting gas safely is a bit of a logistical problem. The autobody stuff would likely be a couple of years down the road, so I think I'll go with the arc welding class. Just to be sure, that'd be the sort of thing I'd want for motorcycle stuff (fabricating a luggage rack, bash plate, etc) or working with a metal-framed trailer?
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Sep 25, 2015 01:11
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It wouldn't be my -first- pick for the job, but it'll do fine, yeah. IIRC Slung Blade does all his blacksmithey fabrication with an arc welder. Also consider your electrical situation at home/in the shop- most (but not all) arc welders run off 220V, which generally isn't readily available, so you may have to install a 220 hookup in your garage or wherever for that. This really isn't my element, but it's my understanding that you shouldn't settle for a 110V unit if you wanna do bigger stuff- the arc quality is gonna suck, your weld penetration will be significantly worse, and the machine will have a really low duty cycle, which- coupled with the fact that you'll have to do conservative passes because of the underpowered machine- will probably prove real frustrating. You can probably find a used AC-only tombstone for, idk, I've seen em for around $250 up here in glorious Canada on Kijiji or whatever. Arc welding really isn't my balliwick, though, so take this all with a grain or two of salt.
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Sep 25, 2015 02:28
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Pompous Rhombus fucked around with this message at 03:34 on Sep 25, 2015 |
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Sep 25, 2015 03:31
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Ambrose Burnside posted:It wouldn't be my -first- pick for the job, but it'll do fine, yeah. IIRC Slung Blade does all his blacksmithey fabrication with an arc welder. I'm actually in Australia, so every outlet is 220V  Good to know though!
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Sep 25, 2015 03:33
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 you'll never know the sublime joy of "just get 100 feet of extension cable and unplug your oven/dryer and run the cable from kitchen to garage whenever you wanna weld, no big" being pitched to you as your best option, and for that i am sorry
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Sep 25, 2015 04:04
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AC-only sub 75 amps is 6011 1/8" right?
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Sep 25, 2015 08:40
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Pompous Rhombus posted:I'm actually in Australia, so every outlet is 220V
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Sep 25, 2015 13:46
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Ambrose Burnside posted:
My oven and drier are both gas, does this mean I can do the same but with mig???
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Sep 25, 2015 14:07
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MrPete posted:Are you doing the course through tafe or some other place? Not a TAFE exactly, it's an adult education course offered through a community centre.
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Sep 25, 2015 14:52
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