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occamsnailfile posted:Those are sweet! How'd you shape the lava channels in the bases? I'd like to take all the credit but they're from a UK company called The Outpost, they have a HUGE stock of bases!
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Sep 16, 2015 22:40
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So I am going to upghrade my airbrushing station. I am still going to use the cheapo <$15 china airbrush but I want to get a vent hood. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NLQ019A?colid=13HCVYIZRGYW0&coliid=I1B3HDF3ALM8JP&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl I have been eying this or similar products and my bother got one recently. Those lights are very bright and seem like they are worth it for a neater desk area. But what I came here to ask: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TJA0S6?colid=13HCVYIZRGYW0&coliid=I9HI2BJETO4D7&psc=1&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl Is this worth the 8bux? I am not sure what it is really. I have a Les recipe bottle for medium/thinning but I just have a bottle of 91% alcohol and a bottle of distilled water for cleaning. You guys think this is worth it? 16oz is on ~sale~!
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Sep 17, 2015 05:30
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will blow your mind.
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WhiteOutMouse posted:So I am going to upghrade my airbrushing station. I have that same hood with the lights. I enjoy it. The light color is a bit off. So don't use it for mixing, but it's great for making sure you have good paint coverage. I use that cleaner too, works very well. It's all I've used though, so I can't compare it to anything else.
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Sep 17, 2015 05:46
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Avenging Dentist posted:This is helpful, thanks! Things are going slightly less horribly now, although thinning my paints a lot more than I used to is basically forcing me to relearn painting from scratch. I'm sure I will have more stupid questions to ask in the near future! To add to previous tips. Invest in some acrylic glaze medium as well if you plan to make washes from paint. If you thin the paint too much it can separate and get ruined, even if you're using flow enhancer/surfactants. The glaze medium helps resuspend the pigment particles and keeps it from separating. Its also very good when you're trying to make fancy glazes as opposed to a wash. I usually use about 1:5 paint to diluent for washes, and I sub in about 2-3parts glaze medium to turn it into a glaze. My diluent is about 20% flow enhancer and the rest tapwater.
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Sep 17, 2015 11:40
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Z the IVth posted:To add to previous tips. Invest in some acrylic glaze medium as well if you plan to make washes from paint. If you thin the paint too much it can separate and get ruined, even if you're using flow enhancer/surfactants. The glaze medium helps resuspend the pigment particles and keeps it from separating. Its also very good when you're trying to make fancy glazes as opposed to a wash. I usually use about 1:5 paint to diluent for washes, and I sub in about 2-3parts glaze medium to turn it into a glaze. My diluent is about 20% flow enhancer and the rest tapwater. Do you know what the difference between matte medium and glaze medium is? I have some of each, but haven't noticed any super-obvious differences. From what people have said, glaze medium sounds kind of like matte medium + water + drying retarder. Maybe the binder in glaze medium is just less viscous? Then I wouldn't need to use as much water to thin the paint.
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Sep 17, 2015 18:27
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whoops, wrong thread
Lord Twisted fucked around with this message at 20:45 on Sep 17, 2015 |
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Sep 17, 2015 19:00
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but how are they painted
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Sep 17, 2015 19:01
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Avenging Dentist posted:Do you know what the difference between matte medium and glaze medium is? I have some of each, but haven't noticed any super-obvious differences. From what people have said, glaze medium sounds kind of like matte medium + water + drying retarder. Maybe the binder in glaze medium is just less viscous? Then I wouldn't need to use as much water to thin the paint. Glaze medium is literally the stuff your paint pigment is suspended in. All paint is a mixture of solvent and pigment, and your glaze medium is the solvent. When we paint, we use water to further dilute the paint as additional solvent, but it can change the properties due to how the paint itself is mixed. I don't remember if this is 100% correct, but the main difference between ready made inks and regular paints (besides consistency) is that the inks do not contain any white - thus making them translucent. On the other hand, GW Foundation paints have extra white pigment, which improves their coverage significantly. When you try making inks from diluted regular paint, the paint can split (like how your homemade hollandaise sauce/mayo does). I've tried super-diluting my paint before with water, it doesn't work well unless you add some ink or glaze medium to it. Matte medium is just solvent with the same particles that make matte spray matte. The give the surface a very slight texture which removes the glossiness. If you glop the matte medium on thickly, you will see that it is not completely clear, and dries with a slight whitish tint. This can be relevant, as the more dilute your paint is, the glossier it appears when dry. You can use this as a special effect for blood - after you varnish your model matte, paint over the blood with Red ink and it will give it a slightly wet look.
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Sep 17, 2015 19:20
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Thank you so much for paint chem 101 guys. A few things finally clicked for me!
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Sep 17, 2015 19:45
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Well I finally painted something im happy with so I might as well stop lurkin up the place. Vostroyan Firstborn    lovely phone pics band wagon. 
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Sep 18, 2015 05:52
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HardCoil posted:Thank you so much for paint chem 101 guys. A few things finally clicked for me! I also found an article about how to make paint that has some interesting bits, including optimal pH levels (8.0 - 8.8). I'll have to experiment some, but it sounds like if you add too much water and the binder collapses, you can just add some ammonia to your mixture to raise the pH and make the binder work properly again.
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Sep 18, 2015 18:26
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Great, more ways to overthink this. I got some ""water for injection" I wanted to use, but it's so pure it's almost corrosive, so I'm afraid it'll gently caress up some ion balance or something :-/
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Sep 18, 2015 19:20
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WildFireHooligan posted:Well I finally painted something im happy with so I might as well stop lurkin up the place. Looks great! I like how muted you kept the color palette. Vostroya don't seem like a "bright, saturated colors" sort of place.
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Sep 18, 2015 19:30
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HardCoil posted:Great, more ways to overthink this. I got some ""water for injection" I wanted to use, but it's so pure it's almost corrosive, so I'm afraid it'll gently caress up some ion balance or something :-/ I refreshed my old high school chem knowledge, and I realized it'd actually be fairly hard to make an ammonia solution with the required pH. Starting with store-bought ammonia (let's call it 5% ammonia), you'd need to dilute it by a factor of 200,000 to get a solution with a pH of 8.8, assuming my math is right. That said, the level of dilution at which the pH of your paint hits 7.5 (when the binder starts to lose stability) is around 3:1 water:paint, which is fairly close to the ratio where people recommend adding more acrylic medium, so it's worth a shot to see if changing the pH of your water would help. I don't think I'll have time to mess with that anytime soon though, since it's probably a better use of my painting time to learn new brush techniques for dealing with thinner paints.
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Sep 18, 2015 21:28
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Ignite Memories posted:Looks great! I like how muted you kept the color palette. Vostroya don't seem like a "bright, saturated colors" sort of place. Thanks man, been awhile since ive done anything and this was a perfect little test, love me some grim dark barbies.
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Sep 18, 2015 22:37
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Couple more dumb questions, this time just about VMC paints: 1) Does anyone else have issues with the colors separating once you thin them down? Is there anything I can do to prevent that? 2) My VMC Dark Sea Grey has chunks in it. I've tried shaking the hell out of it (I even added an agitator to the bottle) and stirring it, but no luck. Should I just throw it out? e: Also, if you buy agitators for your paints, don't use (copper-coated) BBs. They can stain your paints. At least I only have a few paints at the moment. 
Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 04:51 on Sep 19, 2015 |
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Sep 19, 2015 00:50
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Avenging Dentist posted:Couple more dumb questions, this time just about VMC paints: No 1 is the problem you were mentioning earlier about the binder collapsing. Add more acrylic glaze medium. No 2 your paints are hosed. Return for replacement or chuck them in the bin. I didn't know about the paint pH thing. If that is the case if you're in a hard water area you should absolutely use tapwater to dilute then. Sterile/distilled water has a pH of 7, whereas if you have water like mine with a dkh of 25 it starts at 7.8 and has huge buffering capacity against pH shifts.
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Sep 19, 2015 09:49
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Can someone explain alternating brush strokes? Some Googling for a tutorial or explanation hasn't brought up anything. Does it mean stroking left-right-left-right for example when laying down a base coat? Or something like a perpendicular change: side-to-side for first coat, up-down for second coat?
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Sep 19, 2015 17:46
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Z the IVth posted:I didn't know about the paint pH thing. If that is the case if you're in a hard water area you should absolutely use tapwater to dilute then. Sterile/distilled water has a pH of 7, whereas if you have water like mine with a dkh of 25 it starts at 7.8 and has huge buffering capacity against pH shifts. I've heard lots of people having trouble with glazes/washes using hard water because it leaves chalky deposits on the mini (presumably the calcium/magnesium). Given the kind of crap I see in a glass after non-filtered ice melts here, I'd be pretty hesitant to put that on a mini. I'm not even 100% sure the pH of the wet paint matters, since the water will evaporate and restore the pH of the paint to its original levels. It definitely seems to matter if the pH is too low when the binder is curing, though. Since the article I posted is more about fine arts acrylics, they're probably not assuming that you'll thin them down as much as a miniature painter. It's worth an experiment, but I'd probably use ammonia since that should evaporate too (and my understanding is that it's what acrylic binder uses to begin with). As you said, my own issues are probably more that I just don't have enough binder than that I hosed up the pH. It was a bit surprising, since I didn't think I'd added that much water; only 3 or 4:1 water:paint. I guess this is why some people were recommending inks for making washes instead of paint; then I wouldn't have to thin it down as much to get the right viscosity. Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 18:46 on Sep 19, 2015 |
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Sep 19, 2015 18:23
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WildFireHooligan posted:Well I finally painted something im happy with so I might as well stop lurkin up the place. The figure is great! You really need to work on your stand though, it's terrible. 
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Sep 19, 2015 23:55
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The Locator posted:The figure is great! You really need to work on your stand though, it's terrible. I only use the finest goon fingers for my bases.
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Sep 20, 2015 04:11
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Dremcon posted:Can someone explain alternating brush strokes? Some Googling for a tutorial or explanation hasn't brought up anything. Perpendicular. It saves a few coats if youre going for consistency
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Sep 20, 2015 11:33
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I didnt know if this has already been posted but I just discovered that the Painting Buddha guys have puts up a selection of tutorial videos on their youtube channel; https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCMyleo6g75R-bvGsus2oI8Q
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Sep 20, 2015 22:04
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First guy in my old school Big'un unit done. Brighter than my usual scheme because 1990's models. Annoyingly I'll need to ebay a few more to make a unit of 20 for 8th. I got these back in 5th or something when 4x4 units were usable.   Lit and photographed by potatoes at night.
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Sep 21, 2015 02:01
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So I've had it on my painting table since March, but I've finally put some paint on it! I was unsure when I started painting this model how it would come out; I hadn't done camo in a long time and there's something slightly intimidating about Forgeworld models that just isn't there with plastic kits. I was also a bit spooked about the canopy, since the included sheet to cut up for the windows was bent. Fortunately, I cut out the windows from an old plastic blister pack and everything's gravy. Anyway, here's the cool space plane I finally got around to painting. First off, the base that I painted back in March that I've been waiting to put a plane on. I thought it'd be cool to have a little diorama:   Next, the plane in action:      The top and rather plan bottom. I had to leave the landing gear/doors off to accomodate the flight stand lug:   The pilot, because yes, I even paint the eyes on guys in vehicles:  And bonus:  
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Sep 21, 2015 04:54
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Aw yiss Awesome work as usual
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Sep 21, 2015 07:08
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Jobs a good un' SRM
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Sep 22, 2015 04:12
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VASQUEZ! NNNOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!
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Sep 22, 2015 04:17
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Lethemonster posted:Coins dull with handling - thin layers of matte yellow and then brown where extra worn will make them look older. Leave edges where they'd rub and be buffed up shiney. Thank you very much, I'll give these a try!
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Sep 22, 2015 04:29
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Ignite Memories posted:VASQUEZ! NNNOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!! He died the way he lived: on a rock
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Sep 22, 2015 06:01
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I got some more figures finished up this weekend.     The slimes are a coating of Reaper Clear Green + Clear Yellow, followed by highlights of Reaper Alien Goo (and Goo + Golden Blonde), followed by a shitload of clear nail polish. They're still translucent!
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Sep 22, 2015 06:05
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Creepy and weird; and therefore AWESOME!
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Sep 22, 2015 06:35
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e: Managed to doublepost somehow.
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Sep 22, 2015 07:07
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Check these out:  Pretty drat cool models. Then you realise that they are laser cut MDF  http://www.miniaturescenery.com/CategoryPage.asp?CODE=CAT_VH
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Sep 22, 2015 15:56
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Holy poo poo those ork vehicles are sublime.
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Sep 22, 2015 16:01
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HardCoil posted:Check these out: I feel like a lot of it's gotta come down to the painting, but drat them's some nice orks. Their buildings are solid too.
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Sep 22, 2015 16:13
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Their stuff is pretty ace. I've been considering getting some for a while, but I haven't really worked with MDF before so am worried about the assembly and painting. That plus the thousands of unpainted minis I already have...
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Sep 22, 2015 16:33
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SRM posted:I feel like a lot of it's gotta come down to the painting, but drat them's some nice orks. Their buildings are solid too. Yeah there's probably a lot of filling and filing going on as well. But the basic designs are VERY good no matter what the material is.
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Sep 22, 2015 19:34
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Throbbing blob posted:Painted up an old GW ghoul to use as a thief. I have a Vampire Counts army for the late WFB, so I'm going to run an undead warband. Crosspost from the Frostgrave thread. Still need to finish his base up with drybrushing and some snow effects, but I like the contrast between pink healthy-looking skin and the dark base right now.
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Sep 22, 2015 22:24
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It's weird to see a ghoul with healthy skin but it's a good looking mini regardless.
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Sep 22, 2015 22:35
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