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I've backed a few Kickstarters, but since all the $45 slots are gone, I'd rather wait to see how it's received once they ramp up production rather than save a measly $10 for the $55 slot for a knife I may end up hating. I typically trust Our Lord Kenji but who knows if they went to great lengths to send him a tester knife that was functionally perfect rather than what the knife will be like at retail once they mass produce them?
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Sep 22, 2015 15:44
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angor posted:Awesome, thank you. If you are going to buy replacement stones I would very strongly recommend the Shapton Glass Stones for the EP, they fit the cheaper AGPtek sharpener just fine and do a far, far better job than the ones that the sharpener comes with or the ones that come with the more expensive Edgepro. Ideally you want one low grit stone like the 320 or 500, the 1k and the 4k. You can't get them on Amazon but they are so much better than any others I have used that it's worth it to pay a premium for them. If you want you can just start with the 1k, it will give you a good edge on it's own but it's a little slow for repairing micro-chipping and the 4k will give you an even finer edge that will last longer. On that knife Kenji likes it sounds similar to the Tojiro DP or Fujiwara FKM knives with more belly like a western style knife, probably nice for rock chopping. I know that the FKM knives use AUS-8 steel at HRC 58, though from what I have experienced with my FKM paring knife I am not a big fan of that steel. Of course I have $300+ knives so I'm pretty spoiled in that respect. 
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Sep 22, 2015 16:09
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Knives with bellies are gross. Push cut for life.
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Sep 22, 2015 16:39
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I like bellies, makes it easier to break down herbs and poo poo.
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Sep 22, 2015 17:55
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:If you are going to buy replacement stones I would very strongly recommend the Shapton Glass Stones for the EP, they fit the cheaper AGPtek sharpener just fine and do a far, far better job than the ones that the sharpener comes with or the ones that come with the more expensive Edgepro. Ideally you want one low grit stone like the 320 or 500, the 1k and the 4k. You can't get them on Amazon but they are so much better than any others I have used that it's worth it to pay a premium for them. If you want you can just start with the 1k, it will give you a good edge on it's own but it's a little slow for repairing micro-chipping and the 4k will give you an even finer edge that will last longer. Solid. Will place an order tomorrow for probably the 320 and 1k. Cheers!
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Sep 22, 2015 23:57
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angor posted:Solid. Will place an order tomorrow for probably the 320 and 1k. Cheers! I would go for the  house brand diamond 140 and the 1K personally.
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Sep 23, 2015 01:16
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Moridin920 posted:That's a bit heavy. What does it cost them to just take the next name that comes up? Nothing. people will sign up for anything if it doesn't cost money, and then everything goes to poo poo kind of like, oh, I don't know, like internet forums or something?
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Sep 23, 2015 03:41
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mindphlux posted:people will sign up for anything if it doesn't cost money, and then everything goes to poo poo Okay but $100 if you end up not wanting the knife is pretty excessive. Just charge $5 for entry into the lottery.
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Sep 23, 2015 03:50
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deimos posted:I would go for the Any reason other than saving cash? Also, I noticed the diamond one is considerably thinner. Will I have to replace it anytime soon? Another question - I have a german Mercer chef's knife that I'd also like to sharpen with this system. Would the 140/320 and 1k stones be fine for that as well?
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Sep 23, 2015 09:05
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angor posted:Any reason other than saving cash? Also, I noticed the diamond one is considerably thinner. Will I have to replace it anytime soon? The 140 is a diamond plate, those last a long, long time. I prefer the 320 Shapton because I find my diamond plate too aggressive for normal use, I'd use it for something like a broken tip or large chip repair but that's about it, and for that sort of thing I'm more likely to send the knife to a pro for repairs because it can be easy to gently caress up the profile of the knife pretty badly when using something that removes material as quickly as a diamond plate can. For the Mercer the 320 and 1k would be perfect, going up above 1k does not benefit softer western steel knives very much, in fact with softer steel knives I would stick to just the 1k unless the edge is very, very dull and needs to be remade entirely. You will also want to steel a softer knife to maintain the edge, a ceramic rod works well for this even though it also does a small amount of sharpening too.
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Sep 23, 2015 13:19
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So after being talked into buying a non-stainless wa-gyuto, I find myself seemingly going in circles with options on CKTG. What I'm wondering, broadly speaking, is what changes at the higher price point. I was hoping to keep it inside of $150, but I know sometimes that a little more money will yield a lot more product, so that's not hard limit. So what I'm wondering is what makes something like a Moritaka at $175 better than a Murata Buho at $135, or the Tojiro at $70 for that matter. I know with not-kitchen knives that the difference can be nebulous, like the difference between a Spyderco Delica and a Benchmade Osborne design as a light duty folder. Is it the same with handmade wa-gyuto?
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Sep 24, 2015 22:23
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Glockamole posted:So after being talked into buying a non-stainless wa-gyuto, I find myself seemingly going in circles with options on CKTG. What I'm wondering, broadly speaking, is what changes at the higher price point. The workmanship in general increases with price, at least to some extent. The Tojiro knives are mass produced and it shows to some extent, the quality control is not as good and the tempering of the steel is not as good as a more expensive hand made knife. For instance the Moritaka you mentioned is hardened to 65 HRC which lets it take an incredible edge, a Tojiro is only hardened to 60-61 HRC. But there is more to it than that, for instance I have a knife made of VG10 just like the Tojiro DP knives, it's slightly harder at 62 HRC, normally this would make the edge a bit sharper but also more brittle. However it's not, if anything it's more resistant to chipping, has a longer lasting edge and is far sharper than the Tojiro. I can only assume this is due to subtleties in the shape of the knife, the tempering and so on, things that a smith making each knife individually can take into account that a factory setting like where the Tojiro DP knives are made can't. Of course you also see better fit and finish and more expensive materials on more expensive knives. For you I would recommend the Tanaka Ginsan Gyuto it's considered one of the best bargains on CKTG, they tend to be a little rough around the edges, sometimes the spine needs to be smoothed out with some sand paper and such but what is sacrificed in fit and finish work is made up for in the quality of the blade. Also I would not worry too much about stainless vs non-stainless, it makes much less of a difference than people tend to think, it's more about the skill of the smith making the knife than the materials used. Also Ginsan is a really good steel, sharpens up really well and holds it's edge well.
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Sep 25, 2015 01:52
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Anything worthwhile here? https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/118233123/misen-cook-sharp?ref=discovery
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Sep 25, 2015 04:23
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ThirstyBuck posted:Anything worthwhile here? It's probably a fairly good knife, certainly better than your average western chef's knife. It apparently uses AUS-8 steel which is a decent stainless steel used by a number of Japanese manufacturers, I'm not a huge fan of that steel but the tempering and shape of the blade matter more than what steel is used. If you do get one it will probably be a pretty good knife along the lines of a Tojiro with a lot more belly.
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Sep 25, 2015 04:34
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I live in Japan and know nothing about knives. The wife and I have been using a CUTCO set that's 16 years old or so (from when I tried to sell the crap right after high school). From reading OP and some follow on posts, I see that people consider Japanese cooking knives to be high quality and they get exported all over the world. Can anyone give me recommendations on a brand or type of blades for general purpose cooking? Wife is vegetarian and cuts a lot of vegetables, while my son and I both enjoy meats and fish. I don't have any specific requirements or anything because I have no idea what I am supposed to be looking for. All I know is that I'd like a general purpose set that can replace the beat up chef's knife and serrated ones I've been using to cut meat and I'd like to stay under 400 dollars or so for a set if it's possible.
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Sep 25, 2015 09:58
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Nostalgia4Ass posted:I live in Japan and know nothing about knives. The wife and I have been using a CUTCO set that's 16 years old or so (from when I tried to sell the crap right after high school). From reading OP and some follow on posts, I see that people consider Japanese cooking knives to be high quality and they get exported all over the world. Can anyone give me recommendations on a brand or type of blades for general purpose cooking? Wife is vegetarian and cuts a lot of vegetables, while my son and I both enjoy meats and fish. I don't have any specific requirements or anything because I have no idea what I am supposed to be looking for. I bought a few Tojiro DP knives (on this thread's recommendation) from amazon.jp while I lived there. They were each less than $100, with the most expensive being ~$60. I love them to bits.
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Sep 25, 2015 10:36
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Nostalgia4Ass posted:I live in Japan and know nothing about knives. The wife and I have been using a CUTCO set that's 16 years old or so (from when I tried to sell the crap right after high school). From reading OP and some follow on posts, I see that people consider Japanese cooking knives to be high quality and they get exported all over the world. Can anyone give me recommendations on a brand or type of blades for general purpose cooking? Wife is vegetarian and cuts a lot of vegetables, while my son and I both enjoy meats and fish. I don't have any specific requirements or anything because I have no idea what I am supposed to be looking for. A gyuutou (牛刀) is the equivalent of a western chef's knife. Most common sizes are 210, 240, and 270mm but they come both smaller and larger. Santoku bouchou (三徳包丁), also called bunka bouchou ( 文化包丁), is an all purpose knife that is usually smaller and with a different blade shape. Nakiri (菜切り) is a double ground vegetable knife. Usuba (薄刃) is the traditional single ground vegetable knife. There is a blunt tip usuba which is similar in shape to the nakiri, but it also comes in a pointed tip version called kamagata usuba. If you want to break down whole fish, the traditional Japanese knife is the deba (出刃). It comes in a few different variations, but the "normal" one is a thick single ground blade around 6.5 to almost 8 inches long. Single ground knives will steer through food, and they require a different sharpening technique (compared to double ground knives) that I've only seen done properly freehand. I saw one video of a guy who claimed he could do it correctly on an Edge Pro and his brief demo looked idiotic and more difficult than doing it freehand - he was trying to move the knife and the stone simultaneously. If freehand sharpening is not an option then single ground knives should probably be avoided. Properly made single ground knives are also not cheap. The often recommended Tojiro DP line is quite inexpensive in America, and it's even more affordable in Japan. Tojiro and Mac make two very good serrated bread knives. The Tojiro is almost a clone of the Mac; a bit cheaper but arguably worse fit and finish. A small word of caution about the Tojiro DP - I've seen 4 of the gyuutous in person, three 270mm, and one 300mm, and they all have a low hanging heel with a short overgrind directly in front of it; one of the Amazon reviews has a picture of the hanging heel. I haven't tried to completely sharpen the overgrind out, all I did was flatten the low hanging heel out and then resharpen the edge, so I don't know if the overgrind is only in the edge bevel, or if it actually is in the primary grind. From feeling the blade and sighting down its length I think it's only in the edge, but I'm not 100% sure. Most people probably wouldn't even notice the overgrind, but the hanging heel can affect your cuts since it can prevent the blade from making full contact with the board.
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Sep 25, 2015 12:07
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Nostalgia4Ass posted:I live in Japan and know nothing about knives. The wife and I have been using a CUTCO set that's 16 years old or so (from when I tried to sell the crap right after high school). From reading OP and some follow on posts, I see that people consider Japanese cooking knives to be high quality and they get exported all over the world. Can anyone give me recommendations on a brand or type of blades for general purpose cooking? Wife is vegetarian and cuts a lot of vegetables, while my son and I both enjoy meats and fish. I don't have any specific requirements or anything because I have no idea what I am supposed to be looking for. Just get a gyuto in 210mm or 240mm length and a 90mm paring knife to start. If you regularly break down moderately sized whole fish a Deba or Western Deba might be a good purchase. A Honesuki is useful in breaking down whole poultry. Good brands and lines to get would be the Tojiro DP line, the Fujiwara FKM line and MAC's various stainless lines, there are also other brands like Kikuichi and Masamoto but they are much more expensive.
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Sep 25, 2015 13:36
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Seriously, because a lot of people are in this position (I know I was with babbys first set), first sharpen your own knives, they may be good enough for you as is. Secondly, gently caress getting a set. Some of your old knives might get a second life after you learn to sharpen, you may only need 1-3 new knives, not a whole set. Lastly, a nigiri is good for just chopping veg in a push cut manner all day every day. But I like the point on a santoku for things like onions (keeping the root intact to hold the onion together while dicing). Also I use a cheap 10" victorinox for butternut and pumpkins, while I only bought a 8" gyuto for a everyday chefs knife. I didn't end up buying a Japanese petty knife, I just bought cheap victorinox boning knifes (flexi and stiff) and just use the stiff as a petty and boning knife. So sets are bad, cheaper to buy the right knife or two for the purpose. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Sep 25, 2015 |
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Sep 25, 2015 21:43
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I appreciate the suggestions and advice. It looks like I am off to Amazon.jp or out to try to find a local cutlery store. I will probably buy a couple of knives, sharpening stone, and honing steel. I am sure there are youtube videos or something showing to use the stuff.
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Sep 26, 2015 01:10
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ThirstyBuck posted:Anything worthwhile here? Here's the thing: on the internet people talk about knives in terms of specs: the steel, heat treat, blade geometry, and whatever the gently caress. But seriously gently caress all that. I mean I'm not going to say none of that matters. But a knife with great specs can still feel like poo poo because it just doesn't fit your hand. And the only way you find out about that is by handling one. And you can't handle a kitchen knife that's still in the begging for money on kickstarter phase. Seriously. Anyone seriously looking into buying a knife in particular or about 90% of kitchenware in general: go to a store and handle that poo poo. Check reviews and poo poo to find out about the real stinkers, poo poo that's going to fall apart in a couple months, and other things you can't tell just by handling it. But almost all gear made by the major manufacturers is going to function for its intended purchase and you're way, way, way, way the gently caress more likely to care in the long run about how something feels when you're actually using it than what the specs are.
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Sep 26, 2015 01:46
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SubG posted:Ask again when they actually exist. I agree with this but it's largely things like blade geometry, heat treatment and so on that determine what a blade will feel like when you use it. But for someone who is new to high end knives those things are pretty useless because they don't know what they will like or dislike in a knife. Hands on experience is great if you can get it but you can't go to a knife store with a bag of produce and actually get that experience, all you really get from just holding the knife is an idea of it's weight, balance and so on, not how it feels going through various ingredients which is what really matters.
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Sep 26, 2015 02:08
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ThirstyBuck posted:Anything worthwhile here? That's a lot of noise for trying to reinvent the wheel. That knife might be OK, but even if it is, it's nothing special. It's already totally possible to buy a decent to good chef knife in that price range - incidentally with much better steel (VG10 vs AUS8).
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Sep 27, 2015 14:17
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Using AUS8 is an odd choice when SC127 isn't much more expensive and far, far superior.
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Sep 27, 2015 16:12
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:The workmanship in general increases with price, at least to some extent. The Tojiro knives are mass produced and it shows to some extent, the quality control is not as good and the tempering of the steel is not as good as a more expensive hand made knife. For instance the Moritaka you mentioned is hardened to 65 HRC which lets it take an incredible edge, a Tojiro is only hardened to 60-61 HRC. But there is more to it than that, for instance I have a knife made of VG10 just like the Tojiro DP knives, it's slightly harder at 62 HRC, normally this would make the edge a bit sharper but also more brittle. However it's not, if anything it's more resistant to chipping, has a longer lasting edge and is far sharper than the Tojiro. I can only assume this is due to subtleties in the shape of the knife, the tempering and so on, things that a smith making each knife individually can take into account that a factory setting like where the Tojiro DP knives are made can't. Of course you also see better fit and finish and more expensive materials on more expensive knives. Evidently you're not the only fan of the Tanaka Ginsan series; they're sold out in all three lengths. If I may ask, what is it about that knife that makes it such a good bargain? At a glance, Ginsan doesn't seem like a particularly special steel, and it has those rough edges. Is it just a really good HT and blade/edge geometry? I'm mostly just asking out of curiosity at this point. The 240mm version looks awesome and I'm not in a hurry for a wabocho.
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Sep 27, 2015 16:24
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Glockamole posted:Evidently you're not the only fan of the Tanaka Ginsan series; they're sold out in all three lengths. If I may ask, what is it about that knife that makes it such a good bargain? At a glance, Ginsan doesn't seem like a particularly special steel, and it has those rough edges. Is it just a really good HT and blade/edge geometry? Ahhh, too bad, there were two in stock when I made the post. You can always sign up to have them shoot you an e-mail when it comes back into stock, they don't use the e-mail to spam you or anything. Ginsan is a really nice steel, very fine grained which means it sharpens up really nicely, it's somewhat similar to AEB-L in that respect but it holds it's edge a bit better. But yeah, that line of knives has a really good heat treatment, Ginsan usually only goes up to 60-61 HRC and on this knife the smith got it to 62-63 which is significantly harder. Tanaka is also a very good smith so the geometry is really good giving the knife a robust feel you normally get with a thicker knife while still being very thin and very sharp. The knife is also a great value because it's so cheap compared to some of Tanaka's other work like his Ironwood series where a 240mm gyuto will cost you $575. His VG10 knives are a bit more expensive than the Ginsan ones and they lose some of the robustness of the Ginsan line but are even sharper because they are laser thin. There are also his Kurouchi Blue#2 knives but I have heard some complaints about the soft steel used in the tang on those so I'm a little hesitant to give a recommendation on them.
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Sep 27, 2015 16:46
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I own this knife http://www.chefknivestogo.com/toshitk24wa.html and wanted to sharpen it recently. I have one of those fixed angle edge pro knock off things that I used to try sharpening it recently but I feel like I wasn't able to get that good an edge on it. With my cheaper knives I felt like I could get them much sharper than the gyuto and I remember it as being sharper when it was new. Is this just a matter of persistence since its a harder steel and it'll take longer to put a good edge on it? The stones I have for the edge pro only go up to 1500, should I look at getting higher grade ones?
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Sep 27, 2015 18:42
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Cor Geal posted:I own this knife http://www.chefknivestogo.com/toshitk24wa.html and wanted to sharpen it recently. I have one of those fixed angle edge pro knock off things that I used to try sharpening it recently but I feel like I wasn't able to get that good an edge on it. With my cheaper knives I felt like I could get them much sharper than the gyuto and I remember it as being sharper when it was new. Is this just a matter of persistence since its a harder steel and it'll take longer to put a good edge on it? The stones I have for the edge pro only go up to 1500, should I look at getting higher grade ones? As long as you are creating a bur on the whole edge at the start you should get a good edge by the time you are done. What angle are you using and how are you measuring it?
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Sep 27, 2015 18:48
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:As long as you are creating a bur on the whole edge at the start you should get a good edge by the time you are done. What angle are you using and how are you measuring it? The guide to using it told me to run a marker all the way along the edge and set the angle of the stone so that a single pass removes the ink perpendicular to the edge. Measuring with a protractor that comes out at near 15 degrees, not quite I think.
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Sep 27, 2015 19:05
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Cor Geal posted:The guide to using it told me to run a marker all the way along the edge and set the angle of the stone so that a single pass removes the ink perpendicular to the edge. Measuring with a protractor that comes out at near 15 degrees, not quite I think. Keep in mind that different stone thicknesses need to be taken into account. If you don't have the collar you need to do it by hand.
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Sep 27, 2015 21:00
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deimos posted:Keep in mind that different stone thicknesses need to be taken into account. If you don't have the collar you need to do it by hand. What collar are you referring to? I measured the angle between the face of the stone and the spine of the knife as 15 degrees.
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Sep 27, 2015 22:56
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Given the choice between an honesuki and western boning knife, which would you pick?
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Sep 28, 2015 16:55
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I'm the usual home cook who has a couple of dull knives, and recently have been thinking I should get them sharpened. What I want to know is, is it worth it or should I just get a new knife? I did a bit of googling, and it looks like the knife I've had for a while is the 8-inch one from this set: http://thebestkitchenknives.co.uk/richardson-sheffield-v-sabatier-knife-set-review/ Other than having a plastic handle, is there anything really wrong with it? It was pretty cheap.
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Sep 28, 2015 20:39
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Duckbill posted:I'm the usual home cook who has a couple of dull knives, and recently have been thinking I should get them sharpened. What I want to know is, is it worth it or should I just get a new knife? There is nothing wrong with plastic handles other than that wood and such is nicer looking. The real problems with it are things like the full bolster which makes sharpening it a huge pain in the rear end or impossible, it's also probably just your average lovely knife made of low quality steel. I would get some new knives. Cheap but good: Victorinox Fibrox 8-inch Chef's Knife plus a Victorinox Fibrox 3 1/4 inch Paring Knife: Pretty much the standard cheap but good knives. Hanzo Steel: Tojiro DP Gyuto or Tojiro DP two piece set: Fairly cheap for Japanese knives these are waaaaay the gently caress sharper than anything you have ever used before but are more expensive and require actual sharpening every once in a while, sharpening is pretty easy but not everyone wants to go to the trouble to do it. I really do recommend these, they will really increase your enjoyment of cooking since they make all the chopping so drat easy.
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Sep 28, 2015 21:11
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Cor Geal posted:What collar are you referring to? I measured the angle between the face of the stone and the spine of the knife as 15 degrees. Check the videos on this: http://www.chefknivestogo.com/5drstcowhexk.html
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Sep 28, 2015 22:19
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Glockamole posted:Evidently you're not the only fan of the Tanaka Ginsan series; they're sold out in all three lengths. If I may ask, what is it about that knife that makes it such a good bargain? At a glance, Ginsan doesn't seem like a particularly special steel, and it has those rough edges. Is it just a really good HT and blade/edge geometry? AVeryLargeRadish posted:Ahhh, too bad, there were two in stock when I made the post. You can always sign up to have them shoot you an e-mail when it comes back into stock, they don't use the e-mail to spam you or anything. An Australian retailer said Tanaka told him there will be no more ginsanko knives because of supply issues with the steel. Once the remaining stock is gone, that's it, the line is gone.
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Sep 29, 2015 00:11
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:There is nothing wrong with plastic handles other than that wood and such is nicer looking. The real problems with it are things like the full bolster which makes sharpening it a huge pain in the rear end or impossible, it's also probably just your average lovely knife made of low quality steel. I would get some new knives. Easy to fix them up though, just like they make these knives, a dremel, or grinding disk reshapes the bolster and now they are back in service for the household to use without them using my good knives.
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Sep 29, 2015 04:28
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Scott808 posted:An Australian retailer said Tanaka told him there will be no more ginsanko knives because of supply issues with the steel. Once the remaining stock is gone, that's it, the line is gone. Dammit. At least when I miss items on the Steam summer sale, I know they'll eventually be back. This is like finding out that Bura kami retired right after I passed on an unmounted pen knife and bone cutter made by him.
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Sep 29, 2015 16:21
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Glockamole posted:Dammit. At least when I miss items on the Steam summer sale, I know they'll eventually be back. This is like finding out that Bura kami retired right after I passed on an unmounted pen knife and bone cutter made by him. but what if they run out of bits? Fo3 posted:I ruined my first set by using pull through sharpeners. They take of so much metal you can no longer chop due to the full bolster being bigger than the blade. I've got a cheap-ish Henckles 1-man chef's knife with a full bolster and since I only stone-sharpen maybe 1-2 times/year this hasn't been a problem for me. I'm still pondering replacing it though, and every knife I look at I go, "that's nice but the one I have is already good enough." 
CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 18:27 on Sep 29, 2015 |
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Sep 29, 2015 18:24
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deimos posted:Check the videos on this: http://www.chefknivestogo.com/5drstcowhexk.html goddamnit you made me buy a loving $30 digital magnetic angle cube you fag
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Sep 29, 2015 23:13
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