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I wish i could do that, but i'm using a widowmaker and some lovely stands, so I can't get the ground clearance to get my disposal jug underneath. 
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Sep 24, 2015 00:33
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MRC48B posted:I wish i could do that, but i'm using a widowmaker and some lovely stands, so I can't get the ground clearance to get my disposal jug underneath. Lots of hose, then. We use something similar on all the trucks where I work and they're loving wonderful.
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Sep 24, 2015 05:28
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2000 Toyota Camry 2.2L 4cyl 330k miles auto. This is my daily driver at the moment and it's shifting hard when not in cruise (Shifts nicely when it is) Transmission cable has been adjusted, fluids changed, and TPS replaced. It shifts hardest when you fully release or first engage the gas pedal. It's also running a bit rough at idle (tac vibrating). So far I've cleaned the idle air control valve and changed plugs which both helped, also most of the emissions system is new. Any ideas where to go from here? Edit: We also have a 1991 Chevy Suburban 5.7L V8 278k that is wandering badly, most of the front end parts have been replaced and the leaf springs replaced (some bushings may still be old) and the wheel feels tight with no slop. However going down the road you may have to adjust the wheel up to 4" to the left to keep it going straight and following it you can see it dogtracking badly. Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 14:32 on Sep 24, 2015 |
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Sep 24, 2015 14:25
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Familiar Foreigner posted:2000 Toyota Camry 2.2L 4cyl 330k miles auto. Is the check engine light on in the Camry? That may provide some clues. If it's not, I would start with the TPS sensor. Have you had the suburban aligned since all the changes were made?
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Sep 24, 2015 14:59
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No check engine lights on the Camry and the suburban has been aligned multiple times by a few places. My dad says it only has one adjustment for toe and the caster and camber can't be set, but not sure how true that is. The camry's TPS was just replaced with no noticeable effect.
Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 15:44 on Sep 24, 2015 |
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Sep 24, 2015 15:19
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Familiar Foreigner posted:No check engine lights on the Camry and the suburban has been aligned multiple times by a few places. My dad says it only has one adjustment for toe and the caster and camber can't be set, but not sure how true that is. The camry's TPS was just replaced with no noticeable effect. You can absolutely set the caster/camber on a SFA, it's just done with shims (heavier stuff uses a caster shim between the spring and axle, more ordinary trucks generally have some sort of combination caster/camber shim somewhere on or near the knuckle). Just not a well-known procedure and kind of a pain in the rear end, so you're probably getting toe-n-blow alignments. Dog tracking is often a thrust angle thing though, how is the rear looking bushing-wise? Also a Suburban that late should have IFS I thought? Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 16:16 on Sep 24, 2015 |
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Sep 24, 2015 16:13
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Edit: Good point on the rear bushings, going to have them checked when I can since this suburban was run off the road a few years ago which may have done some damage to that area. Also it was 92 that they changed suburbans/blazers to IFS, so this predates that.
Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 04:08 on Sep 25, 2015 |
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Sep 24, 2015 19:32
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When I bought my 2002 Golf 2.0L GL a little over a year ago, I paid more than twice what KBB suggests I could sell it for today. Is this kind of fall-off normal for used cars? This is Baby's First Car Loan so I'm feeling like the Supreme Chump of Ripped-Off Mountain. When I bought the thing, they either didn't know or didn't tell me about the oil consumption issue that's gonna need a whole rebuild, but I know that's my fault.
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Sep 24, 2015 21:15
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scuz posted:When I bought my 2002 Golf 2.0L GL a little over a year ago, I paid more than twice what KBB suggests I could sell it for today. Is this kind of fall-off normal for used cars? This is Baby's First Car Loan so I'm feeling like the Supreme Chump of Ripped-Off Mountain. When I bought the thing, they either didn't know or didn't tell me about the oil consumption issue that's gonna need a whole rebuild, but I know that's my fault. That's normal for a dealer offering a loan on a 12 year old Golf. How bad is the oil consumption? Unless it was smoking, you can't gauge oil consumption on a test drive.
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Sep 24, 2015 21:31
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rdb posted:That's normal for a dealer offering a loan on a 12 year old Golf. How bad is the oil consumption?
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Sep 24, 2015 21:33
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Try some rotella on your next oil change.
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Sep 24, 2015 21:36
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Also next time you pull plugs (whether to clean or replace) is do a compression test too, it's a quick easy way to check engine health.
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Sep 24, 2015 21:59
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Enourmo posted:Also next time you pull plugs (whether to clean or replace) is do a compression test too, it's a quick easy way to check engine health. rdb posted:Try some rotella on your next oil change. Sure. I've been using nothing-fancy full synth 5w-30 so far.
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Sep 24, 2015 22:05
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Use the 15w-40 grade, non synthetic.
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Sep 25, 2015 01:54
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scuz posted:Did a compression test when trying to figure whether it was the rings or something else. PSI per cylinder is exactly where the Bentley manual says it should be. My guess is valve stem seals, which could also mean bent valves. I won't know until I get the head off and I need like a pile of money to buy the tools before I start in on that. Bent valves would almost certainly affect compression, so if you're within spec on that you luckily can rule that out. Rotella synth stuff does help a shitload with valve stuff. I had a small valve tap switched to 0w-40 Rotella now and you hear it maybe for all of 2 second on start up in -30C weather.
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Sep 25, 2015 05:00
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Pertinent information: 2007 Dodge Charger SXT (3.55L V6) 91900 miles I took my car to a service station for a state inspection, failed for front upper ball joints and the parking brake. Guy said he'd pass me if I got the ball joints done and quoted me a decent price so I set up an appointment for today. Took the car up, went and picked it up later and immediately noticed this awful noise that I can't really identify. It sounds like metal clunking around, like thuds and stuff. It happens like, all the time but especially when the road isn't so smooth, or when going uphill, when I go over a dip in the road, and holy poo poo train tracks. I can feel it too, its right around my right foot, where the pedals are. The noise sounds like it's coming from the front center of the vehicle. It was definitely not doing it before I had the work done. So my questions: A) Any idea what this noise could be? B) Is it safe to drive? It sounds like it's about to fall apart down there. C) How should I go about this with the service station? Have another shop look at it? Call the original shop up and see what they'll do? Thanks guys. I've googled but it seems like a tough thing to search for when I'm not even really sure how to describe it.
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Sep 25, 2015 05:12
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Santheb posted:Took the car up, went and picked it up later and immediately noticed this awful noise that I can't really identify. Take it back to the service centre and tell them about this.
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Sep 25, 2015 05:48
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I just found a picture of my car with a Portugese Alibaba seller's watermark on it. Is there anything I can do about it? Is it even worth it? http://portuguese.alibaba.com/product-gs/lada-niva-off-road-snorkel-kit-lada-niva-4x4-off-road-snorkel-kit-60206477407.html
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Sep 25, 2015 06:01
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8ender posted:Take it back to the service centre and tell them about this. I was gonna call them first but yeah this is definitely part of my plan. I hope they're decent about it and at least look at it. In fact I hope I can convince one of them to hop in the car and go down the street with me. The sound loves to repeat itself. I drove a friend home from work tonight, and I also drove him home Tuesday night. He's got a suspended license. Anyway he could hear it and said it was kinda giving him goosebumps and that it definitely wasn't like that on Tuesday or any other day prior to that. Ughh.
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Sep 25, 2015 06:04
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General_Failure posted:I just found a picture of my car with a Portugese Alibaba seller's watermark on it. Is there anything I can do about it? Is it even worth it? I don't know but here's the English page and there's a button that says report suspicious activity. http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lada-Niva-Off-Road-Snorkel-Kit_60206477407.html?spm=a2700.7724838.30.154.pQytFk
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Sep 25, 2015 12:22
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1500quidporsche posted:Bent valves would almost certainly affect compression, so if you're within spec on that you luckily can rule that out. Rotella synth stuff does help a shitload with valve stuff. I had a small valve tap switched to 0w-40 Rotella now and you hear it maybe for all of 2 second on start up in -30C weather.
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Sep 25, 2015 14:43
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Santheb posted:Pertinent information: This ended up being a sway bar that they apparently didn't tighten well. Barely at all, it seemed like. Took it back up there first thing this morning and they stuck it up on the lift and fixed it up. All good now but driving it yesterday was scary, feeling like it was about to fall apart at any moment.
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Sep 25, 2015 14:57
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scuz posted:Sorry, I'm mistaken; I'm suspecting my valve stem seals, not the valves themselves. Would it still pass a compression test if the seals went bad? Yes, the seals only keep (too much) oil from running down the valve stem. The valve heads themselves are what hold compression.
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Sep 25, 2015 15:02
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Fart Pipe posted:Yes, the seals only keep (too much) oil from running down the valve stem. The valve heads themselves are what hold compression.
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Sep 25, 2015 15:12
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scuz posted:Sweet deal, thanks dude! Phew, I hope I only have to rebuild the head and I can leave the engine in the car. There's a pretty good chance you can do the valve stem seals with the head on the engine. You will have to do something to keep the valve from falling in, either: using a compression tester fitting and some compressed air (10-20 psi should do it, I think), or stuffing the cylinder with nylon rope.
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Sep 25, 2015 16:03
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EightBit posted:There's a pretty good chance you can do the valve stem seals with the head on the engine. You will have to do something to keep the valve from falling in, either: using a compression tester fitting and some compressed air (10-20 psi should do it, I think), or stuffing the cylinder with nylon rope. 
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Sep 25, 2015 16:14
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Stupid short trip question - my wife works 9/10 of a mile from home. She also routinely comes home for lunch, so on a given week her car is driven on 10-20 less than 1 mile trips. We also regularly use her car for other trips besides commuting to work so it gets run up to temperature almost daily beyond the short commute trips. Is there anything special I should do since it gets driven on short trips frequently but isn't only driven on short trips? Car is a 2005 Mazda 6i automatic if it matters.
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Sep 25, 2015 18:31
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Geoj posted:Stupid short trip question - my wife works 9/10 of a mile from home. She also routinely comes home for lunch, so on a given week her car is driven on 10-20 less than 1 mile trips. We also regularly use her car for other trips besides commuting to work so it gets run up to temperature almost daily beyond the short commute trips. The main problems with short trips are buildup of water and fuel in your oil, batteries take a bit to recharge, and carbon can build up in your piston rings and valves. Running it up to temperature daily will help resolve lots of that. You might want to get it warm then floor it getting on the highway once a week or so to really help keep the carbon down. There isn't much you can do about the frequent heat cycling, though, so do expect things to wear out faster regardless of the daily run up to temperature. Follow the scheduled maintenance guidelines for severe driving conditions, etc.
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Sep 25, 2015 18:40
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scuz posted:I don't have an air compressor and honestly kinda wanna take the head off as a learning thing If you really want to take it off you can but the rope trick works swimmingly. Ive done it so many times.
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Sep 25, 2015 18:54
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Fart Pipe posted:If you really want to take it off you can but the rope trick works swimmingly. Ive done it so many times. 
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Sep 25, 2015 19:09
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If you do take it off just remember to get new head bolts, they're torque-to-yield.
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Sep 25, 2015 19:10
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scuz posted:Rad. The more I weigh my options the more I might not wanna remove the head after all. I purchased the head bolts along with the gasket set for everything in the head but I didn't buy the special VW tool that allows me to REMOVE the head bolts. Don't have a torque wrench, either What the triple square for the bolts? Dont forget you have to redo the timing on the timing belt too which isnt hard but its a thing and yea you definitely need a torque wrench.
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Sep 25, 2015 19:41
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Fart Pipe posted:What the triple square for the bolts? Dont forget you have to redo the timing on the timing belt too which isnt hard but its a thing and yea you definitely need a torque wrench.
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Sep 25, 2015 20:02
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scuz posted:Triplesquare I've got, it's the splined dealy-bobs I haven't: http://www.amazon.com/Tools-V3452-Head-Bolt-Tool/dp/B000PH6VLU That is a triple square, homie. 12 splines is 3 squares.
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Sep 25, 2015 21:14
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Fart Pipe posted:That is a triple square, homie. 12 splines is 3 squares.
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Sep 25, 2015 21:21
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InitialDave posted:In VW's case, yes. But a 12 point made as two hexes is also common, and the two are not compatible in terms of wrenching interface. Luckily, you tend to only see internal triple-square (XZN) heads and external bi-hexagons, so it's not often you'll find yourself looking at the wrong thing. Oh poo poo thats right but I havent seen the two hexes kind on a VW. I also havent worked on an early 00s VW like he has in forever so that may be the case.
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Sep 25, 2015 21:25
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CharlesM posted:I don't know but here's the English page and there's a button that says report suspicious activity. Hey thanks! I didn't realise there was an English version.
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Sep 25, 2015 22:51
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tater_salad posted:I don't know about echo's in paricular in terms of how the coil is set up, but sounds like your coil could be going to poo poo I've had cars where they ran like crap becuase once the engine gets hot the coil starts to fail. BTW that was it bought the coil online for like $80 and took a minute to replace and it is running fine. Thanks!
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Sep 26, 2015 16:43
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I'm learning stick, first time I ever so much as touched a clutch pedal was on the 14th. So it took me about a day of dicking around in my neighborhood and then a few days at dicking around my exit and the about a week of using it for basic trips off the highway and tonight I finally felt comfortable enough to tool around some major streets and the highway. I have two reocurring issues in my '15 manual transmission Honda fit. 1: For some reason sometimes I can't secure the clutch in second gear. I will make the same motion I always do but it won't stick. I assume that it's because the engine is revving too high, because I've never had the issue moving from first to third. On a lower power engine like my Fit is there much call for second gear outside of parking lots? 2. The slowest I can go in reverse is waaay to fast. Should I ride the brake a bit when reversing or what? As is it seems like the slowest I can start a reverse at is 5+ miles an hour. In a crowded parking lot that's going to be a pain in the rear end. That's pretty much it. I still stall maybe once every few drives and I occasionally spin my tires a touch (which makes me feel like a massive idiot) sometimes, but I think I mostly have the hang of it.
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Sep 27, 2015 04:25
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Eifert Posting posted:2. The slowest I can go in reverse is waaay to fast. Should I ride the brake a bit when reversing or what? As is it seems like the slowest I can start a reverse at is 5+ miles an hour. In a crowded parking lot that's going to be a pain in the rear end. You're not going fast and you're not driving far in reverse. It's fine to modulate your speed with your clutch. Any extra wear is going to be insignificant in the grand scheme of things. Just don't, you know, floor the accelerator whole backing up and you'll be fine.
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Sep 27, 2015 04:39
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