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Tomarse posted:Good crimping tools are really loving expensive. I've had good luck finding used crimp tools on eBay. You can usually tell how badly they were abused by looking at them, and you can test the strength of the crimps pretty easily. I favor the Sargent brand, made in Connecticut.
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Sep 21, 2015 12:59
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sharkytm posted:I've had good luck finding used crimp tools on eBay. You can usually tell how badly they were abused by looking at them, and you can test the strength of the crimps pretty easily. I favor the Sargent brand, made in Connecticut. I don't think we get that brand in the UK. I have some unbranded (assumedly chinesium) ones, but they are at the upper end of the unbranded price and quality scale. Loads better than the very cheap chinesium ones I started with. Looking on ebay here you can spend £5-£35 on a new cheap unbranded set then there is nothing until you get to brands you have heard of at £120+
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Sep 21, 2015 13:29
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I've only ever used $10 crimping pliers, what do good crimping tools look like? The double butt / heat shrink connectors that came with the o2 signal modifier for my miata are somehow uncrimpable with what I have now. Even squeezing the poo poo out of them I couldn't get them to deform enough to grip the wires (note that I am a weak baby so maybe that's the only problem.) I wound up just buying a new set of butt connectors that seemed to go on fine.
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Sep 21, 2015 15:22
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https://store.snapon.com/Ratcheting-Crimpers-Kit-Ratcheting-Crimper-Quick-Change-P650252.aspx They're friggin' amazing.
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Sep 21, 2015 15:31
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Tomarse posted:Good crimping tools are really loving expensive. And then there's the Harbor Freight hydraulic crimper, which is so heavy I basically maneuver it into position and build the splice around it.
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Sep 21, 2015 15:44
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What's wrong with the cheaper ratcheting ones like this? Besides non swappable jaws. http://www.amazon.com/Titan-11477-Ratcheting-Terminal-Crimper/dp/B0069TRKJ0
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Sep 21, 2015 15:58
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Actually, that reminds me of something I've been wondering -- how should you use ratcheting crimpers? I was using a pair once, and I discovered that I had to fiddle with the mechanism to get them open again. Is this right, or was I doing something wrong?
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Sep 21, 2015 16:24
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You have to keep squeezing until they release. This is what ensures a consistent crimp each time. There is typically a manual release lever for if you gently caress up somehow, but using that means you did not crimp completely. I've never had one that wouldnt release after squeezing far enough, though some may require considerable force. I suppose it's possible there was something defective in a unit that could make it not release.
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Sep 21, 2015 16:45
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I'm willing to bet I was using too small a crimper in that case. I was putting my whole weight into it.
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Sep 21, 2015 16:49
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peepsalot posted:What's wrong with the cheaper ratcheting ones like this? Besides non swappable jaws. There are some tools (a prybar, say) that are pretty much the same no matter what. Some things (ratchets, these) are very, very different depending on which you get. Seriously - before I bought these, I thought I didn't know how to crimp - I could never get crimps to work well. The first time I used these, it was a perfect crimp. And every one since has been as well.
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Sep 21, 2015 18:22
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One of the pivots should have an adjustment on it so you can alter how far the jaws close before the ratchet will release. I've had good luck with cheap crimpers but they are generic tools from China so don't expect too much.
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Sep 21, 2015 19:06
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Krakkles posted:https://store.snapon.com/Ratcheting-Crimpers-Kit-Ratcheting-Crimper-Quick-Change-P650252.aspx Thanks for posting that. I have recently started an account with my snap on guy and I need a good crimping tool. now I can just give him this number instead of trying to guess what I mean.
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Sep 22, 2015 00:14
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Safety Dance posted:I'm willing to bet I was using too small a crimper in that case. I was putting my whole weight into it. If its that titan one, the first few crimps take quite a bit of force from what I remember. After half a dozen, it loosens up and you're generally good to go, but it'll still take a bit out of you.
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Sep 22, 2015 03:52
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Safety Dance posted:They should really be using crimps over solders for vehicle wiring harnesses. Agreed EightBit posted:Wires don't have to be under tension to transmit vibration, the copper will take care of that. Increasing the length of lead wires in electronics is a very effective way of decreasing solder stress. In terms of external wires that are of course orders of magnitude longer, this is still true. A service loop will stop force from being transmitted to the solder joint. While they wont transmit none, the wire will act as a vibration filter that will be extremely biased to low frequencies, isolating the high frequency vibration that causes solder joint failures. Tomarse posted:Good crimping tools are really loving expensive. I bought a Daniels (DMC) HX4 (mil spec crimp tool) on eBay used for like $50 in 2009. Check there.
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Sep 23, 2015 02:24
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Just picked up this 5 piece GearWrench set: http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-93005-Combination-Ratcheting-Wrench/dp/B001M0O288/. Those combined with the 11/16" I already have should cover about 90% of the fasteners on the Nova.
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Sep 25, 2015 01:07
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Safety Dance posted:They should really be using crimps over solders for vehicle wiring harnesses. All things in moderation, including crimp connections in automotive applications.
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Sep 25, 2015 14:43
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PBCrunch posted:All things in moderation, including crimp connections in automotive applications. So I shouldn't have made my radio harness entirely out of a series of crimps back to back to back? 
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Sep 25, 2015 15:20
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PBCrunch posted:Some things are tough to get a good crimp on. In particular, the wiring for most immobilizer systems is tiny gauge that is pretty much impossible to crimp in situ. You definitely can't get a t-tap to bite those tiny wires. You don't want to cut those wires because a failure in the field results in a car that won't start. If the solder joint fails (and it won't), the remote start won't work, but the key function is not effected. You also need solder when you do things like wire capacitors inline with speakers for simple high pass filters. Given quality crimps and a quality crimper I trust 99% of automotive enthusiasts with a crimper more than I trust them with a soldering iron. As long as you aren't working on engine compartment wiring, I could care less what you use. Stuff in the engine compartment gets far too much vibration for me to suggest soldering. Also, note that heatshrink is vastly misunderstood. Most people will throw heatshrink on and call it good - not realizing that if you use regular unsealed heatshrink all it does is wick water into the connection and hold it there. If you're working outside the passenger compartment, you should be using sealant lined heatshrink, because it actually seals the connection properly. And as long as you do, and it covers the joint properly, I don't care if you solder or crimp because the heatshrink will be protecting the stiffened section of wiring anyways. Related: never, ever, ever splice in a section of harness that will be flexing regularly - for example the wiring inside door cable boots. Keep your splices on one side or the other of the flexy area. Otherwise you'll end up like 97-01 XJs, which have a splice in the middle of the boot from the factory* and because of this generally lose front door speaker function after a few decades because the wire breaks right at the end of the heatshrink. * lol Chrysler wiring etc
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Sep 25, 2015 15:33
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kastein posted:Given quality crimps and a quality crimper I trust 99% of automotive enthusiasts with a crimper more than I trust them with a soldering iron. Does anybody know a good place to get this? I used some that came with a connector I bought, but I've never seen it in a store.
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Sep 25, 2015 16:51
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So I have a $20 off $40 or more coupon at Advance Auto Parts. I was going to stock up on fluids, but I don't think I need $40 of stuff. Instead, I saw this: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/gear-wrench-8-piece-reversible-ratcheting-combination-wrench-set-metric-9543/25984326-P With an online discount and the coupon, the set comes out to $35. That seems like a good deal, right? Also, Advance says they have a "Limited Lifetime Warranty". How good is their coverage?
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Sep 25, 2015 17:01
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Just picked up this 5 piece GearWrench set: http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-93005-Combination-Ratcheting-Wrench/dp/B001M0O288/. Those combined with the 11/16" I already have should cover about 90% of the fasteners on the Nova. It should be called the old American iron set because that's what I bought it for and that's who I care about. It made replacing about half of the 21 front fender bolts easier. New bolts would have also made it easier but seemed less useful.
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Sep 25, 2015 17:07
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This is possibly one of the dumbest questions I could ask, but I was hoping someone here could help me. I'm looking for a 3/8 ratcheting screwdriver, something I could schlep a socket on and quickly run nuts in with, to then torque down with a regular or flex ratchet. However, my searches are pretty fruitless... I've found a wonky looking craftsman mech ratchet, then started seeing references to yankee screwdrivers... I didn't think what I'm looking for should be all that exotic? Is there some other term I should be searching?
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Sep 25, 2015 17:19
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OSU_Matthew posted:This is possibly one of the dumbest questions I could ask, but I was hoping someone here could help me. I'm looking for a 3/8 ratcheting screwdriver, something I could schlep a socket on and quickly run nuts in with, to then torque down with a regular or flex ratchet. Ratcheting screwdriver + these = what you want. Or something similar to those anyway. Even better if you have an electric screwdriver.
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Sep 25, 2015 17:25
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Yeah it's the 3/8 that is making that tricky. Alternatively, you could just go with a regular nut driver that doubles as an extension. There's a female 1/4" square drive in the back of the handle. I've got an older one of these and it comes in pretty handy.
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Sep 25, 2015 17:38
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I gave in and bought a heat gun and ratcheting crimper. Hoping it changes my life forever. edit: goddamn I didn't realize heat guns got so hot. I was imagining, like, 200-300f, but mine says the high setting is 650f. powderific fucked around with this message at 17:50 on Sep 25, 2015 |
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Sep 25, 2015 17:43
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OSU_Matthew posted:This is possibly one of the dumbest questions I could ask, but I was hoping someone here could help me. I'm looking for a 3/8 ratcheting screwdriver, something I could schlep a socket on and quickly run nuts in with, to then torque down with a regular or flex ratchet. A swivel head ratchet is what you want. E.g. http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-1491-Quick-Release-Ratchet-72-Tooth/dp/B00A50NB1K
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Sep 25, 2015 17:52
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Uthor posted:So I have a $20 off $40 or more coupon at Advance Auto Parts. I was going to stock up on fluids, but I don't think I need $40 of stuff. Instead, I saw this: I like the ones with out the switch much better. It often just gets in the way, and just pulling the wrench out and flipping it takes as much effort as hitting the switch in some applications.
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Sep 25, 2015 19:40
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SouthsideSaint posted:I like the ones with out the switch much better. It often just gets in the way, and just pulling the wrench out and flipping it takes as much effort as hitting the switch in some applications. Unfortunately, the non reversible ones at Advance Auto Parts stop at 15mm and I would really like a 17mm. They are much cheaper, though.
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Sep 25, 2015 19:57
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Safety Dance posted:A swivel head ratchet is what you want. E.g. http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-1491-Quick-Release-Ratchet-72-Tooth/dp/B00A50NB1K You could go full stupid and get a http://www.amazon.com/Wera-Zyklop-4-inch-Drive-Ratchet/dp/B001V9NCS6/ref=sr_1_28?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1443207426&sr=1-28&keywords=zyklops
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Sep 25, 2015 19:58
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The 3/8" equivalent is $68, which is still less than half of the Snap On price. http://www.amazon.com/Wera-Zyklop-Ratchet-Square-Socket/dp/B003KN3GKK/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1443207959&sr=1-5&keywords=zyklops+3%2F8
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Sep 25, 2015 20:08
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OSU_Matthew posted:This is possibly one of the dumbest questions I could ask, but I was hoping someone here could help me. I'm looking for a 3/8 ratcheting screwdriver, something I could schlep a socket on and quickly run nuts in with, to then torque down with a regular or flex ratchet. You can also get a thumb wheel ratchet and put an extension on the end. http://m.summitracing.com/parts/wmr...qjoAaAtu_8P8HAQ
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Sep 25, 2015 20:11
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I looked back through the last few pages and didn't see anything about torque wrenches. Any recommendations for a good brand for home mechanics? I don't have an inch-pound wrench at all, and it is time to get rid of the cheap poo poo pair I bought years ago from an auto parts store.
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Sep 25, 2015 21:08
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If you don't abuse them and check their calibration every year or so, the Harbor Freight torque wrenches are a great value for the money.
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Sep 25, 2015 21:30
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Harbor Freight for a standard ft-lb torque wrench. All day. Hell I may as well treat it as a subscription and buy a new one annually at  I have a cheap beam style inch pound wrench because a. I didn't know anyone with one, out of all the gunsmithing, motorcycle riding, hot rod dreaming construction guys I worked with, b. I have literally one use for it, and c. They get expensive quick.
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Sep 25, 2015 21:32
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StormDrain posted:Harbor Freight for a standard ft-lb torque wrench. All day. Hell I may as well treat it as a subscription and buy a new one annually at When I built my rear end, I bought a beam style inch pound wrench. I then returned it when I was done  .
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Sep 25, 2015 21:55
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Cat Hatter posted:Does anybody know a good place to get this? I used some that came with a connector I bought, but I've never seen it in a store. It's available at any Electronics mail-order place, McMaster, GenuineDealz, or many other places. Where are you located? It's usually 3:1 shrink ratio, which is awesome. Good butt-splices will have glue-lined heatshrink sleeves on them. Again, GenuineDealz or Home Depot (Raychem brandname) carries those. Get a good crimper and stripper, use it properly, and shrink the sleeves carefully (Too much heat causes the adhesive to boil and not seal well).
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Sep 26, 2015 01:41
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Uthor posted:So I have a $20 off $40 or more coupon at Advance Auto Parts. I was going to stock up on fluids, but I don't think I need $40 of stuff. Instead, I saw this: Those might be on sale or about to go on sale, so you might could get both a standard and a metric set for the same price. Warranty is fine - they should ask for a name and phone number etc to put it under. It's their brand so they will cover it basically no matter what. Limited lifetime means you get one free replacement for the lifetime of the product. Your replacement has a 90 day warranty. Buuut most will warranty it anyway unless you're a jackass or obviously abusing it.
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Sep 26, 2015 01:58
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Cat Hatter posted:Does anybody know a good place to get this? I used some that came with a connector I bought, but I've never seen it in a store. Look for "Environmental" or "Adhesive-Lined" heat shrink. Also in the crimp/solder/sleeve chat, a quality heatgun and some of these are pro as gently caress.
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Sep 26, 2015 02:12
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Also marketed as "Marine" (aka "lovely Conditions") butt connectors, and Autozone has 'em too.
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Sep 26, 2015 07:50
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Uthor posted:Unfortunately, the non reversible ones at Advance Auto Parts stop at 15mm and I would really like a 17mm. They are much cheaper, though. Understandable. There is a full set at sears which has 10 sae and ten metric for like 70$ usually. They also have other sets. I know you have a coupon and whatnot through advance. But for future reference or if anyone else wanted to get some gearwrenches. http://www.sears.com/gearwrench-20pc-combination-ratcheting-wrench-set-sae-mm/p-00935720000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1 These are them. I have them and love them and sears often has them for a little cheaper then the price on the site. Edit: all this talk about butts heating and shrinking is making ten year old me laugh my rear end off
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Sep 26, 2015 15:00
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