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QuarkMartial posted:Those might be on sale or about to go on sale, so you might could get both a standard and a metric set for the same price. Thanks for the heads up! SouthsideSaint posted:http://www.sears.com/gearwrench-20pc-combination-ratcheting-wrench-set-sae-mm/p-00935720000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1 These are them. I have them and love them and sears often has them for a little cheaper then the price on the site. These are currently 50% off at Advance Auto Parts ($50). And the $20 off coupon stacks on top of that. Woot! Unfortunately the additional 20% code I have doesn't work on them due to the sale, but I'm stocking up on various fluids anyway for that one to work. Semi-related, the Advance Auto Parts website is a buggy mess.
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Sep 26, 2015 15:58
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Pictures to follow, but I just found a $20 power hacksaw. Brand is Keller, motor turns and it seems to cycle as designed. It is on a homemade cart as it weighs about 200 lbs. Is it worth anything? I dont have any need, but at $20 why not? It looks circa 1950s to 1970s. Lots of cast iron. Edit. It's a keller 2B. Mercury Ballistic fucked around with this message at 02:08 on Sep 27, 2015 |
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Sep 26, 2015 16:44
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Ratcheting screwdriver + these = what you want. Or something similar to those anyway. Even better if you have an electric screwdriver. These are awesome, thanks! I'll probably pick up a swivel head ratchet as well, just for good measure. Those adapters + impact driver might even be the perfect torque without even busting out the ratchet
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Sep 26, 2015 20:10
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Mercury Ballistic posted:Pictures to follow, but I just found a $20 power hacksaw. Brand is Keller, motor turns and it seems to cycle as designed. It is on a homemade cart as it weighs about 200 lbs. Is it worth anything? I dont have any need, but at $20 why not? It looks circa 1950s to 1970s. Lots of cast iron. I love it and I am jealous forever. It is roughly like a horizontal bandsaw but much slower. Set up right I hear it has some certain advantages. Find me a metal shaper next!
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Sep 27, 2015 05:28
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Commodore_64 posted:I love it and I am jealous forever. It is roughly like a horizontal bandsaw but much slower. Set up right I hear it has some certain advantages. Find me a metal shaper next! Here it is in action. https://youtu.be/fkWAWJPfW4s It needs some adjustment on the ratcheting pawl and it looks like it would benefit from some lube. The mass of the mechanism is shaking my truck on the suspension.
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Sep 27, 2015 19:59
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Mercury Ballistic posted:Here it is in action. Haha my dad has one of those, I remember watching it slowly cut through round bar stock, just set up to run while he prepared something else. I'm guessing the advantage is cutting through metal at a true angle, and not ruining any heat treating?
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Sep 27, 2015 21:31
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Sup, Warboys and Wargirls. Witness what I did to my TGAW helmet: And this is the one I use for SMAW right after i painted it awhile back: 
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Sep 27, 2015 22:30
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Six-Of-Hearts posted:Sup, Warboys and Wargirls. Witness what I did to my TGAW helmet: a pair of v good helmets
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Sep 28, 2015 07:20
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StormDrain posted:Haha my dad has one of those, I remember watching it slowly cut through round bar stock, just set up to run while he prepared something else. The workshop I worked at in the 90s had one of those auto recip hacksaws. They are pretty cool in the fact you can just walk away from them and do something else, as the machine had auto shut off. Cut isn't super smooth, but it doesn't heat up the metal, (auto lube on the thing as well) E: It was mainly used for round bar stock there too. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 10:55 on Sep 28, 2015 |
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Sep 28, 2015 10:50
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My $260 HF bandsaw does just fine and has auto shutoff as well... it doesn't cut exactly perpendicular to the table, but cuts at exactly the same angle every time, so you can compensate for it if you care. I mostly use it to cut up 1/4" steel stock right before FCAW/GMAW welding things to the cut end, so it doesn't really matter much to me.
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Sep 28, 2015 17:41
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My only advantage is the thing was dirt cheap. It is an OSHA nightmare with the open belt and power switch between the belt and blade. I would venture that the blade it the least dangerous part of the thing.
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Sep 28, 2015 21:02
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Six-Of-Hearts posted:Sup, Warboys and Wargirls. Witness what I did to my TGAW helmet: You use a big Jackson Shadow for stick and a pipeliner for tig? You're weird.
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Sep 28, 2015 23:05
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Yeah, weird is kinda how things always end up for me. I wanted a second helmet so I wouldn't have to switch out lens shades, and I've always liked how the pipeliners look.
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Sep 29, 2015 00:24
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kastein posted:My $260 HF bandsaw does just fine and has auto shutoff as well... it doesn't cut exactly perpendicular to the table, but cuts at exactly the same angle every time, so you can compensate for it if you care. Yeah, these hacksaws were used for solid stock 1/2" or bigger. Any steel smaller or hollow then use a drop saw or cutting wheel.
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Sep 29, 2015 05:29
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I'm building a desk of out 1.25" galvanized tubing, what is the best tool for getting straight cuts for $50 or less? Amazon, home depot or harbor freight.
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Sep 29, 2015 21:35
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A pipe cutter meant for electrical conduit and pipe will give you perfectly straight cuts. http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-No-15-Tubing-Cutter-32920/100015820 I'm assuming you are using thin wall tubing not thick wall, since you said desk not pallet rack. If I'm wrong, you'll want to find something else to cut with.
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Sep 29, 2015 21:44
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kastein posted:A pipe cutter meant for electrical conduit and pipe will give you perfectly straight cuts. http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-No-15-Tubing-Cutter-32920/100015820 I'm using kee klamp fittings size 7, which call for 1.660 OD tubing. I haven't actually bought the tubing yet, so I'm not really sure.
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Sep 29, 2015 21:52
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What thickness is considered thin wall? I was going to buy this. Google Butt fucked around with this message at 02:07 on Sep 30, 2015 |
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Sep 30, 2015 01:46
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I have a Ranger Quickjack like this. The 3500lb version. Today I tried to use it on a modern car for the first time. My '15 Mazda3 has the typical side pinch weld running between the wheels with arrows noting reinforced lifting spots. The Quickjack isn't long enough to reach both lift points, so my logic was to make sure I was positioned at the front point because that's where the engine weight is, then just as far back on the pinch weld as possible. I was maybe 10 inches from reaching the rear lift point, but it seemed stable and I didn't crush the pinch weld. It this OK? Today I was just lifting the car to make waxing easier, so I wasn't concerned about getting underneath or anything.
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Sep 30, 2015 03:15
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Google Butt posted:What thickness is considered thin wall? With your budget and with fittings where the cut doesn't have to be precise, use a hacksaw , grinder (if you already have one or can borrow one), or pay someone to cut to length.
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Sep 30, 2015 05:10
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Fo3 posted:Under 1mm. Or just have the guys at Home Depot cut it for you for free.
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Sep 30, 2015 05:17
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Fo3 posted:Under 1mm. How about that $80 harbor freight chop saw? I'd have HD cut them down, but I'd like to have the ability to make my own cuts just in case.
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Sep 30, 2015 06:43
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Google Butt posted:How about that $80 harbor freight chop saw? I'd have HD cut them down, but I'd like to have the ability to make my own cuts just in case. It's a good option, but you could get equally good or better for cheaper on your local Craigslist probably.
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Sep 30, 2015 15:42
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Yeah, you got to ask yourself how often are you ever going to use it again. Buy a cheap one like that you may not ever be able sell it for anything. Buying a name brand second hand after some research, you may be able to sell it for what you paid for it. If you aren't cutting a lot of steel in the future ever again, getting a drop saw may be useless to you after this project. OTOH a grinder could do the job fine and you might find more uses for it after the project. I live in aussie, so I'm not the right person to ask about HF tools. Most tools I buy are name brands anyway, mainly makita. Our cheap tools down here are from bunnings hardware and are named "ozito". They've only made two good electric tools. The old 900w sds rotary hammer drill/demo, and their little battery screwdriver. E: and after sanding my wooden floors with a rented drum sander I used a bunch of ozito belt and orbital sanders to finish the corners and they were good too. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 16:53 on Sep 30, 2015 |
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Sep 30, 2015 16:44
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Yeah those fittings are going to hide all the crimes of imperfect cuts, I'd say get a cheapo grinder and go to town. You'll probably have a lot more uses for that tool in the future vs. a big chop saw. Get a face shield, good gloves, and have a good place to cut without flammable stuff around too.
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Sep 30, 2015 17:07
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mod sassinator posted:Yeah those fittings are going to hide all the crimes of imperfect cuts, I'd say get a cheapo grinder and go to town. You'll probably have a lot more uses for that tool in the future vs. a big chop saw. Get a face shield, good gloves, and have a good place to cut without flammable stuff around too. Thanks dudes. I was just thinking I might need square cuts for the the legs, but maybe I can get away with it.
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Sep 30, 2015 17:29
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Get a good proper mask too since you are cutting galvanized pipe. A cheapo paper filter dust mask (that always leaks) isn't the best and galvanised metal has nasty stuff on it. Do the cutting with a grinder and a cutting wheel, and buy a grinding disk along with the cutting disks. As long as you don't err on cutting too short, then you have a grinder disk to finish/level things off with anyway. Actually, if you cut one leg too short or rough, then you can grind down the three longer ones... Like I said, grinders are more useful that a drop saw unless you intend to regularly cut a lot of steel to length all day every day. E: actually, get the supplier to cut to length as suggested before, get a grinder for any alterations. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 17:54 on Sep 30, 2015 |
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Sep 30, 2015 17:51
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Or, hear me out, get a pipe cutter for $15 and not need any of this other ancillary poo poo.
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Sep 30, 2015 17:56
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I used pipe cutters all day every day for over a decade (E: 2 decades) because I used to be in HVAC. They won't cut 1.6mm galvanised steel reliably. If they do, maybe you'll get 4 cuts out of them with plenty of traintracks (the wheel walking along in a spiral). They're good for copper and aluminium though. They are just a cutting wheel made of steel that isn't that hard in itself. that's talking about the way more than $15 higher quality HVAC brand ones too. The rigid and chinese ones I had were even worse. E: VVV It's not the galvanizing that is the problem, but the thickness of the steel. Those reviews seem to mention doing only a few cuts, some mentioning traintracks, ie walking, inaccurate cuts besides the one cutting light steel pipe. You can buy a grinder for $25 even in Australia and save a lot of time. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 18:23 on Sep 30, 2015 |
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Sep 30, 2015 18:05
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Fo3 posted:I used pipe cutters all day every day for over a decade (E: 2 decades) because I used to be in HVAC. They won't cut 1.6mm galvanised steel reliably. If they do, maybe you'll get 4 cuts out of them with plenty of traintracks (the wheel walking along in a spiral). I haven't cut galvanized steel but reviewers seemed to like the same one I had.
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Sep 30, 2015 18:12
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Seriously, both Home Depot and Lowe's cut (and thread) pipe for free (unless you're getting a ton of cuts, then they'll either charge a small fee or say the machine is broken to discourage plumbers from getting a whole house's worth of plumbing cut for them). They have a big motorized pipe cutter that makes perfectly straight cuts in galvanized or black iron pipe in a couple seconds. Just try to go early in the day so they'll be less busy. If they do say the machine is broken, specify that you only need the pipe cut because threading takes longer (so they're more likely to lie about it) and the threader is more commonly broken (sometimes the dies fall out and get lost) than the motor or cutting wheel.
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Sep 30, 2015 20:10
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Google Butt posted:Thanks dudes. I was just thinking I might need square cuts for the the legs, but maybe I can get away with it. There are only four legs, right? You're buying at least two pieces of pipe and each leg is less than half a pipe length, right?  Half of the game with pipe and other stock sold by the foot is cleverly arranging your cuts so you have the least waste and the fewest cuts.
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Oct 1, 2015 22:49
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I've used pipe cutters to chop down gun barrels before. What thickness are those in relation to what you're cutting? (From 28" down to 19", no funny business...if you're wondering)
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Oct 1, 2015 23:39
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kastein posted:There are only four legs, right? You're buying at least two pieces of pipe and each leg is less than half a pipe length, right? There are 4 legs and 7 supports. If you look at the "rugged" kit on https://www.simplifiedbuilding.com that's the design. I'm not sure of the supports lengths due to the nature of the top. It's schedule 40 1.25" pipe. I have no problem spending $80 on that chop saw to have the ability to make my own cuts, I'm more likely to use that again than a $250 pipe cutter. I did order that cheap pipe cutter to test though. Google Butt fucked around with this message at 01:38 on Oct 2, 2015 |
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Oct 2, 2015 01:25
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In my ongoing quest to fill my garage with wonderful tools that i'll probably never use, i stumbled across an Avdel nutsert kit.  Looks like its never been opened. which is unlikely, as the kit dates from definately pre 1995 (the phone number only has 5 digits), and possibly earlier (when did a 6mm metric thread become an M6 thread? late '80s?) Its all there though, seems new ones are still on sale for about £80. Not bad for a £10 car boot sale find!
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Oct 2, 2015 12:42
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Google Butt posted:There are 4 legs and 7 supports. If you look at the "rugged" kit on https://www.simplifiedbuilding.com that's the design. I'm not sure of the supports lengths due to the nature of the top. A hacksaw and a mitre block will give you a pretty straight cut in under a minute.
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Oct 2, 2015 12:45
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Cakefool posted:A hacksaw and a mitre block will give you a pretty straight cut in under a minute. Good idea. I actually just remembered I have a circular saw, I might just buy the appropriate blade and try that
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Oct 2, 2015 16:06
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Google Butt posted:Good idea. I actually just remembered I have a circular saw, I might just buy the appropriate blade and try that You'll need a jig to hold the pipe and give the sawplate a flat surface to ride. Why not just cut them with an angle grinder and then file/grind them square? Use some tape to mark the true/square line, cut the pipe (hacksaw, cutting disc, whatever) as close as you can but outside the final mark, then use a flap-sanding disk to true it up.
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Oct 2, 2015 22:13
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Tamir Lenk posted:You'll need a jig to hold the pipe and give the sawplate a flat surface to ride. Good call. I'm going to have I'd make the cuts for my legs, since I know for sure what length I want those and then use my angle grinder or reciprocating saw and a flap sanding disc for cleanup. Thanks dudes.
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Oct 3, 2015 01:52
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QuarkMartial posted:I've used pipe cutters to chop down gun barrels before. What thickness are those in relation to what you're cutting? Why would use use a pipe cutter for that? You still have to re-crown and deal with perfect squareness on the rifling. Or are you talking about shotgun barrels, which are almost always much, much thinner.
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Oct 3, 2015 04:15
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