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OK I think the AQ running alone is pretty OK after a clean and lube. The old filter is kind of noisy, and adding to the total racket. How long should I run both side-by-side before I pull the crappier old one?
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Sep 30, 2015 16:21
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ShaneB posted:OK I think the AQ running alone is pretty OK after a clean and lube. The old filter is kind of noisy, and adding to the total racket. Are you able to put the media from the old filter into the new one? If you can you could swap them out right away pretty much.
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Sep 30, 2015 16:27
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Rallos posted:Are you able to put the media from the old filter into the new one? If you can you could swap them out right away pretty much. Sadly no. It's a totally different brand.
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Sep 30, 2015 16:39
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ShaneB posted:Sadly no. It's a totally different brand. Brand doesn't really matter, what kind of media is in the old filter? Just a sponge thing? Some carbon? Bio balls/ceramic media?
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Sep 30, 2015 16:53
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Rallos posted:Brand doesn't really matter, what kind of media is in the old filter? Just a sponge thing? Some carbon? Bio balls/ceramic media? I think it's basically only cartridges. Tetra whisper EX 70.
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Sep 30, 2015 17:07
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I've got a soft spot for barbs so if it was my tank still I'd get a few more, or consolidate on all one colour type if the different ones weren't schooling, and then do a monitored test run with something like a guppy, and be ready to net it out if things get rough. You already know from the chomp marks on the betta that your previous situation wasn't a happy one, but I'd give them a chance to rehabilitate before condemning them. Bettas were an easy target and with those big koi there probably wasn't much territory to go around so I think things could be different. But I get what you're saying, it's better if you choose your own fish; if you had an empty tank what would your dream fish be?
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Sep 30, 2015 17:35
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Stoca Zola posted:I've got a soft spot for barbs so if it was my tank still I'd get a few more, or consolidate on all one colour type if the different ones weren't schooling, and then do a monitored test run with something like a guppy, and be ready to net it out if things get rough. You already know from the chomp marks on the betta that your previous situation wasn't a happy one, but I'd give them a chance to rehabilitate before condemning them. Bettas were an easy target and with those big koi there probably wasn't much territory to go around so I think things could be different. But I get what you're saying, it's better if you choose your own fish; if you had an empty tank what would your dream fish be? I generally would like "cool looking" (read: bright, colorful) fish that school together and are active. I'd also like some that inhabited/roamed various areas of the tank: the bottom, the middle, and the top areas. Basically the more it can look teeming with life and colorful the happier I will be. The rams have decent sized fins but the barbs never seem to go after them, and the ram fins look perfect.
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Sep 30, 2015 17:40
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After my initial terrible attempt at Threadfin Rainbows, I decided to try once more. This time ordering from Liveaquaria instead of LFS plus dark room drip acclimation instead of my usual impatience. I love these fish! 9 males & 3 females arrived a week ago and have remained healthy and happy (Knock wood). My two surviving original females are now enduring non-stop juvenile male displaying. Please enjoy a short poorly filmed video. https://youtu.be/r_hJ7pqVRl4
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Sep 30, 2015 18:09
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ShaneB posted:I generally would like "cool looking" (read: bright, colorful) fish that school together and are active. I'd also like some that inhabited/roamed various areas of the tank: the bottom, the middle, and the top areas. Basically the more it can look teeming with life and colorful the happier I will be. Something like this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bWpSgfToMbs
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Sep 30, 2015 18:42
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Stoca Zola posted:Something like this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bWpSgfToMbs whoa. that's almost TOO active with tons of same-size fishies for the newbie eye, but it looks fun. edit: also I realized you REALLY have to get that gravel siphon tip down to the bottom of the tank. I was doing the surface gravel and getting a bunch of crap out of it, but really shoving it in there got even more disgusting filth from the gravel. Those koi (and general lack of any real care to the tank) did a number on that thing. ShaneB fucked around with this message at 19:07 on Sep 30, 2015 |
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Sep 30, 2015 18:44
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Yeah I thought it was nuts! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ko5qQEqmOU0 A really big school of just one species is a bit more soothing to watch, but not really my cup of tea either. I think there was too many fish in the tank in that first video and not enough cover. Probably looks better to have not so many different species and just pick one or two for each level. If tetras aren't your thing, there are some different little rasboras (chili, eyespot) that school nicely. The eyespots can be a bit iridescent under the right lighting, my sister has a few and they're pretty cute.
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Sep 30, 2015 19:18
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There's a knack to it, it feels pretty good to get the gravel spinning round and round in the tube and seeing all the crud flying out of it, getting sucked away without much going loose in the tank. I'd probably do more vacuuming in my house if it was just as easy to see how much cleaner things were getting as it is in a fish tank. Big gravel is notorious for trapping crud and then turning into a nitrogen factory as the gunk breaks down,the gaps between each piece are just too big to keep the nasty stuff down there. Ideally you want that either nothing can get down in there (sand) or the gaps between the gravel pieces are tight enough that anything nasty stays down and doesn't waft out into the water column. Some people swear by deep sand for letting a biological zone develop where the nitrates start being broken down directly into nitrogen by anaerobic bacteria, others swear by shallow gravel since that doesn't allow for pockets of crud to build up at all. If you get substrate meant for plants you aren't supposed to do the same kind of deep vacuums as you do with gravel, you just skim the worst of it off the surface, same with sand since you don't want to disturb any zones that have developed in the sand. In my sand tank I've found that making circles with the end of the vac relatively close to the surface of the sand makes vortexes that lift the crud away from the bottom so I can suck it without sucking any sand.
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Sep 30, 2015 19:31
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I really really hope chemical tests look better after 3 days of tiring and messy water changes. I really got the wand deep in the gravel (TWSS?) and the water buckets were quite gross. How long should I wait before testing the water again? I went to a LFS and found it to be totally nice. One of the workers there was helpful and listened to all my concerns and questions. He suggested farming out the barbs via CraigsList if I wanted to get some other fish in there, which I think will be my final decision. I picked up a nice piece of driftwood that is soaking now, along with an attractive rock to replace the tacky plastic pieces that were in there. After seeing them in real life and hearing they were good for newbies, I think I'm going to go with: - school of hatchetfish for hanging out up top and looking shiny - some kind of attractive tetra school for the middle ground (glowlight? I think had some kind of cool looking bright stripe that went all the way to their eyeballs) - school of cory cats for the bottom and algae/waste duty - keep the 2 rams as larger chill dudes Of course this is after the chemicals have evened themselves out and I have replaced the gravel with a finer one. I figure I'll get the tetras first, then the hatchets, then the cory cats. Goals, you guys. Goals.
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Sep 30, 2015 21:46
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ShaneB posted:I really really hope chemical tests look better after 3 days of tiring and messy water changes. I really got the wand deep in the gravel (TWSS?) and the water buckets were quite gross. How long should I wait before testing the water again? Cories aren't going to do you much good for algae, but they are fun. Maybe get some nerites for algae or something. Hatchets are built for jumping and will find any possible holes in your lid. You're also going to have to be on top of water changes for them. Glowlights are a good choice. Rummynose tetras are also very popular, but require more care. Have a look at fish with similar body types, like harlequin rasboras. Those API test kits (you're using the kind with the bottles and the test tubes, right?) have a lot of liquid, so it's not going to hurt to test daily if you feel like it. I'd probably check right before whenever you do your water changes. Not only are you not following a lot of the mistakes that a lot of first time fish keepers make, you're correcting mistakes someone else made. It might not feel like it, but you're off to a really good start.
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Sep 30, 2015 22:24
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So after doing some research on oscars the prevailing thought seems to be that oscars need 55 gallons each so it would be unwise to house two in a 75g, given how messy they are. What would be suitable tankmates for one? I've heard a school of silver dollars is cool. Any other suggestions? Thinking of getting one of the "smaller" plecos (read: adult size a foot or less) for algae cleanup.
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Sep 30, 2015 22:38
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Dogwood Fleet posted:Cories aren't going to do you much good for algae, but they are fun. Maybe get some nerites for algae or something. Hatchets are built for jumping and will find any possible holes in your lid. You're also going to have to be on top of water changes for them. Glowlights are a good choice. Rummynose tetras are also very popular, but require more care. Have a look at fish with similar body types, like harlequin rasboras. Yeah, hatchets might not be ideal. Do you have other top-swimmers you'd suggest? I have a good lid that covers everything (with the vinyl cut, at least), but if I need to be changing water CONSTANTLY that might get old? Rasboras were at the store and looked great, too. I'm trying my best! Edit: water test.... still dark red Nitrate test. Discouraged as hell. Can dirty and old filter and filter medium be harboring this stuff? Could it be in my old filter somehow? ShaneB fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Sep 30, 2015 |
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Sep 30, 2015 22:50
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My 10 gal is pretty well established now  5x platy's 1x cherry scrimp 
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Oct 1, 2015 01:11
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Prescription Combs posted:My 10 gal is pretty well established now You could get a bunch more shrimp if you want. They have very little bioload.
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Oct 1, 2015 01:43
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Prescription Combs posted:1x cherry scrimp You got that right. Get a million of 'em!
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Oct 1, 2015 02:42
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I have about 50 now (started with 12) in my 2.5g nano at the office and they are thriving. Along with probably 25 assassin snails (started with 2)
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Oct 1, 2015 02:47
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ShaneB posted:Edit: water test.... still dark red Nitrate test. Discouraged as hell. It might be worth using your nitrate test on some water straight out of your tap. Unless I have you confused with someone else, you are on Chicago water, so you really shouldn't have nitrates out of the tap, but you never know. Plus it can serve as a test of, well, your test.
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Oct 1, 2015 02:49
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Slugworth posted:A dirty filter is good, a filthy one is bad, so possibly. My office is in the Chicago Loop and I have no issues using water out of the tap. Are you on well water or have some sort of water treatment system.
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Oct 1, 2015 02:59
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If the tap water is fine and the test for nitrates isnt busted, you can up it to 50% changes a day til its under control. It could also be because you're stirring up gunk as you clean up the gravel.
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Oct 1, 2015 03:10
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SynthOrange posted:If the tap water is fine and the test for nitrates isnt busted, you can up it to 50% changes a day til its under control. It could also be because you're stirring up gunk as you clean up the gravel. Tap water shows 0. I've tried pulling out the old charcoal filters in the tetra filter I am replacing. I left the plastic bio holders, however. I figure they are doing more harm than good in there, and I have activated charcoal in the AquaClear. I'm going to just keep doing aggressive water changes, I guess, and getting way under that gravel. It's taking up a surprising amount of my time and getting frustrating tackling this thing. I hope in the end it feels worth it. Could I just theoretically give these 7 fish away (or put the two rams in temp housing), clean the entire thing out and start fresh? That might honestly be tons easier.
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Oct 1, 2015 04:05
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Checked at my LFS today, and tanks are on sale for a while. Going to pick up a drilled 180 with plumbing for $650. Guess I need to start building a stand!
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Oct 1, 2015 04:15
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ShaneB posted:Tap water shows 0. Yeah thats always an option. If you've got a few rubbermaid tubs or whatever keep the fish and filter in there while you clean out the main tank. Old charcoal is probably useless at this point. Once charcoal soaks up all it can it's just a large storage point for chemicals and if it breaks down it just releases it back into the water.
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Oct 1, 2015 04:21
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SynthOrange posted:Yeah thats always an option. If you've got a few rubbermaid tubs or whatever keep the fish and filter in there while you clean out the main tank. Old charcoal is probably useless at this point. Once charcoal soaks up all it can it's just a large storage point for chemicals and if it breaks down it just releases it back into the water. OK, so here's my plan. Let me know if any of this will be a waste of time or destroy anything in the tank ecosystem or nitrogen cycle: - farm out barbs via CL - put rams, 2 fake plants I have left, and rock from current tank into a big plastic bin. Hang filters on the bin and run them. Q: How do I keep this water warm? Can I put the heating stick in there? I'm not sure how it won't melt the plastic. - Drain tank. - Remove gravel. - Place large live plant in a bucket. - Clean tank. - Place new, rinsed, smaller grain gravel in bottom. Try to get huge live plant back in there. Add some new smaller plants from LFS. - Fill with treated water, return plastic plants (for the old tank bacteria). - At this point, I'd guess that I want to attach the filters, or just one of the filters, back to the tank and let it run. I'd then want to check my chemicals every day or so to make sure stuff was looking correct and acting like a cycled tank, right? - Cross fingers rams don't die. - If chemicals are looking good, add rams back to tank. - Again, cross fingers rams don't die. Is this correct? Overly cautious? Madness?
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Oct 1, 2015 14:13
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I bought guppies from Aquabid. I decided to take a risk and go for Priority 2-Day because the weather has been nice and why the heck not. This might have worked out okay except my fish were shipped to Hawaii.
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Oct 1, 2015 22:29
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What? I never hit post on my big message? Short version: Heater will be fine if you use holder/ suction cups You'll need a second one to warm both the tub and the fresh clean tank Plan your plant placement on paper then research plants to suit the desired layout and level of lighting and co2 also pre plan your driftwood Big plant might be able to chop apart to smaller plants to suit alternate layouts, might come apart when you move it Big plant and filters will have plenty of bacteria, I don't expect you'd need to re-cycle especially not with small 2 ram bioload Rinse tubs etc in tank water before use Don't put soap or bleach in your tank just wipe up residual gunk with paper towel Plants bought in advance can be kept in bucket until the big day Plan to do it all over a weekend minimising tub time for rams Keep tub covered (loosely) darkness might help ease stress for rams Rinse your new gravel unless it's some kind of pro plant substrate which should say do not rinse on the packet After planting, refill tank carefully to avoid mess ie pour on to plastic sheet not direct onto substrate, thus reducing turbulence Keep planning and researching and reading until you are ready then do it! The reward of a tank that is your own design and own livestock is worth all the effort. If something goes wrong don't give up, just learn from it and do it differently next time. PS dogwood I hope you are in Hawaii If you don't keep your females separated you will drown in guppy fry within six months they are worse than snails Stoca Zola fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Oct 1, 2015 |
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Oct 1, 2015 22:40
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Thanks much. Holy poo poo catching those 5 little barbs was a pain in the rear end.
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Oct 1, 2015 22:49
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Stoca Zola posted:PS dogwood I hope you are in Hawaii Well, I am impressed that they made it to Honolulu in two days. Sadly I am in the midwest. I've kept Endlers before, I figured this would be somewhat worse but I'm also going to have bigger fish to help cut back on their numbers. I am upset about this, but it is hilarious. 
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Oct 1, 2015 22:56
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Hah, my frontosa must have overheard the plans for their new 180g tank, because I discovered their first ever fry in the tank tonight.  frontosa fry
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Oct 2, 2015 01:48
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I'm getting a school each of chili rasboras, strawberry rasboras, kubotai rasboras, and lambchop rasboras to go with my CPDs and I'm so excited. It seems like way too many fish until you realize that they won't grow any larger than 0.5 inch. I'm kind of surprised that the CPDs are little jerks to each other, they're these tiny little shy nervous dainty fish and then you see them chase each other around. Also had 80 individual aquatic plants arrive today that I bought from Aquabid so there's a ton of work to do planting all the tanks. And I have six new biological filters to assemble, I'm trying out Fluval water polishing pads and API micro-filtration media for even clearer water than I already have. Another person in the house has a fish tank and it's weird being used to our crystal clear water and going upstairs and seeing a tank so murky you can hardly see the fish. There is a possibility I may be quitting my job due to employee drama so I'm glad I've already gone all-out and bought everything I could ever possibly need so at least my fish won't suffer. And I think working on tanks for hours is a really great way to relieve stress and not think about things for a while. I'm glad I got into this hobby.
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Oct 2, 2015 06:08
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Same here even though there are the occasional tragedies it's still really rewarding to get the plants growing nice, the water clear, the fish healthy, etc. I'm not there yet though, another one of my beacon tetras is starting to show a slight incline in the way she swims, and she is taking a noticably increased amount of effort to maintain her position in the water. It's the same as how the other one started, and I'm wondering if there is anything I can do to treat her if I start early. Like the other one, she had camallanus too, all my beacon tetras did to some extent. I was worried the first one was caused by some floating pellets that I'd been feeding every couple of days, since the tetras only eat from the surface to midlevel of water and I was worried they were missing out on anything that went lower, that the barbs, guppies and danios were happy to eat. However I haven't fed those pellets at all for over a month since the first tetra showed symptoms so I am pretty sure it's not diet related. I'm still doing weekly-ish water changes (always more frequently than fortnightly) but I'll do some water testing in case it's water quality not diet. It still could be injuries due to disease I suppose, I was surprised I didn't lose more fish after hearing how bad camallanus worms can be. One of my new panda cories died over night, I'm pretty sure it was the one who had a small red spot on their side as I had been keeping an eye on that one in case of trouble, and doing a fish count every couple of hours to make sure they were all still alive. He was definitely alive before I went to bed last night. Found him faceplanted into a vallisneria with the snails starting on his tail and dorsal fin, abdomen noticably red streaked. I'm going to do a partial water change in that tank just to be on the safe side, even though I only just did one. Anyway thats why I bought 8 of them, I wanted to make sure I still had a big enough school even if there were a couple of losses. I'm glad I have more than one tank running at once since the individual problems so far haven't mashed together to create a big disaster. I probably need to be more attentive about cleaning my tools/nets after use so I don't transfer anything between tanks though. Republicant I had a dream about a school of rasboras in a huge tank last night, I was probably thinking about ShaneB's tank right before I went to sleep. I think the ones in my dream were boraras maculatus. Brevibora dorsiocellata are another cute tiny fish you might be interested in. edited to add: if you can afford it, don't stay in a bad job! get out before it wrecks your confidence or stresses you too hard Second edit: Dead cory tank: NH3 = 0 NO2 = 0 NO3 < 5ppm, pretty good. Wonky tetra tank: NH3 = 0 NO2 = 0 20ppm < NO3 < 40ppm which is much higher than I'd like. Going to change some more water and check the filter for accumulated gunk, see if I can get it cleaner. I just tried using my long planting tweezers to get some thawed frozen food down to the bottom for the cories to eat, but they are slow and derpy and it didn't land right by them. By the time they noticed it and came to investigate, the guppy hordes had devoured it. I think the guppies would not even be fooled by a feeding tube. There are so many in there I was sure the waste levels in the tank would be much higher, but I suppose they are all juvenile sized. Anyway some of these guppies need to go! Maybe I need to put the females in the other tank where the danios and barbs can keep the fry at bay, and put the males in the cory tank so that numbers there will be steady? Male guppies seem a lot less food oriented than females too. Anyone got any cory feeding tips for a community tank? Maybe I can make something like this out of a plastic bottle: 
Stoca Zola fucked around with this message at 13:03 on Oct 2, 2015 |
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Oct 2, 2015 11:12
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Based on my thermometer I got (cheap digital thing with a probe), my heater stick thing isn't keeping up. It's falling to about 74.5 overnight and it's set to much higher than that. Ambient temps are getting cold overnight and I'm not running my furnace yet. I'm guessing this is yet another thing I should replace/upgrade?
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Oct 2, 2015 15:43
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Do you know how many watts of heating you have? 55 gallon = 210 lt so thats about how many watts you should have. So 100w at either end of the tank maybe? I like the idea of having two or more smaller heaters rather than one big one, even 3 x 75 watt if your place gets cold over winter. 74ºF is around the minimum you'd want it to go for rams to be happy but it isn't good for the heater to be running full time. High nitrate tank update: the filter had a lot of gunk which I rinsed out, looks like I should go back to doing it with every single water change. I think there was a lot of broken off duckweed roots going rotten in there from the rosy barbs constantly picking at them. The purigen is pretty brown already! Corydoras feeding tube update: I found a piece of broken off plastic tube from my original not very good gravel vac, it has a straight rigid section and I figured I could hold it against the tankwall with the holder from the mini heater that I'm not using. I cut it to size so that the food could be dropped in from the top and carried all the way to the bottom, stuck it in the tank and tried it out with some thawed brine shrimp. It carried the brine shrimp right down to the bottom and made a nice tidy pile, which the guppies detected straight away and started hoeing into. I do think the corydoras got some before it was all gone though. I left the feeding tube in while I went back to cleaning out the filter, and when I went back to see how the cories were doing, a big ramshorn snail had jammed itself half way up the pipe AND one of the fat guppies had followed it up and couldn't work out how to get back out. So feeding tubes and guppies just don't mix. I will be able to use it but I can't leave it in the tank full time.
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Oct 2, 2015 17:14
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Stoca Zola posted:Do you know how many watts of heating you have? 55 gallon = 210 lt so thats about how many watts you should have. So 100w at either end of the tank maybe? I like the idea of having two or more smaller heaters rather than one big one, even 3 x 75 watt if your place gets cold over winter. 74ºF is around the minimum you'd want it to go for rams to be happy but it isn't good for the heater to be running full time. Are these heater sticks supposed to shut off automatically based on their internal thermostats, or always just stay on and you adjust them to get to a more-or-less constant temperature in your tank. I would certainly hope the former.
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Oct 2, 2015 17:17
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Depends what model you get. The tiny ones for small betta tanks just run hot all the time because thats the way a betta likes it. I've got some of these in my small tanks: http://www.amazon.com/Marina-Submersible-Heater-Aquarium-25-watt/dp/B00AFELT92 and you can adjust the heat via the grey knob on top. If you want to know how hot it is you need to measure it yourself with a thermometer. My two big tanks have a knob which you turn and are calibrated, the knob tells you what the target temperature is. One is a plastic unbreakable one, and the other is like a big version of those Marinas I linked. For my corydoras tank I have it at 22ºC and the other tank is 24ºC. I've got a thermometer as a back up means to check the temperature since if the heater fails it might get too hot. Yes, they all have thermostats and that is one way the heaters can fail. It's better if a heater fails off than on since a cold fish won't necessarily die straight away but a hot one might. You want heaters that are totally submersible (I don't know if you can even buy non-submersible heaters now) and if you feel clumsy the plastic unbreakable ones are good. The glass ones I have do have bumpers on the bottom so if they get dropped it's cushioned and they shouldn't break. Stoca Zola fucked around with this message at 17:32 on Oct 2, 2015 |
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Oct 2, 2015 17:27
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I've been doing some reading and worrying because of the second wonky tetra I have who looks a little bit like the first one before she got really bad. I finally found some symptoms that fit: nitrate poisoning; loss of appetite, listlessness, loss of equilibrium, laying on the bottom of the tank, curling from nose to tail. However it's only affecting singular fish not all the others, and the levels of nitrate that I tested weren't what I would have considered to be immediately dangerous. However! Considering the previous camallanus infestation these poor fish had, I would not be surprised if some of them had damaged livers, and thus are not able to process excess nitrates as well as the other fish, so it took a lot less nitrate in a shorter time to have a bad effect. The most badly infested fish was affected first, and the next one is now slowly being affected. With this in mind I have a course of action to take to try and save the other fish: more water changes, and I can stick the additional purigen sachet in the filter to help grab more nitrates out of the water. Realistically making more water changes to get cleaner water is the best way to help a sick fish recover but it is nice to have an idea of what has happened and why.
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Oct 2, 2015 20:23
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| # ? May 24, 2024 23:22 |
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Stoca Zola posted:I've been doing some reading and worrying because of the second wonky tetra I have who looks a little bit like the first one before she got really bad. I finally found some symptoms that fit: nitrate poisoning; loss of appetite, listlessness, loss of equilibrium, laying on the bottom of the tank, curling from nose to tail. However it's only affecting singular fish not all the others, and the levels of nitrate that I tested weren't what I would have considered to be immediately dangerous. However! Considering the previous camallanus infestation these poor fish had, I would not be surprised if some of them had damaged livers, and thus are not able to process excess nitrates as well as the other fish, so it took a lot less nitrate in a shorter time to have a bad effect. The most badly infested fish was affected first, and the next one is now slowly being affected. With this in mind I have a course of action to take to try and save the other fish: more water changes, and I can stick the additional purigen sachet in the filter to help grab more nitrates out of the water. Realistically making more water changes to get cleaner water is the best way to help a sick fish recover but it is nice to have an idea of what has happened and why. Hopefully that works. Poor fish. Now that you mention purigen. When I finally get to set up my big tank I have a 4 tray canister filter (Sun Sun 404b-HW), I'm thinking of putting filter sponge in the bottom tray, and then two trays of bio balls and purigen on top? How much purigen would i need? Never used it before, also is that the best configuration or should I put it after the sponges and before the bio balls?
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Oct 2, 2015 20:34
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