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I think there are so many good rtf or artf kits with a real frame these days that there isn't a good excuse to buying the hobbyking kit anymore. you may need to research more to find uk local vendors, but I'd recommend one from armattan or mini quad bros. There are also a lot of build lists out there if you want to venture out on your own and aseemble the kit yourself.
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Oct 2, 2015 12:58
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A Yolo Wizard posted:I think there are so many good rtf or artf kits with a real frame these days that there isn't a good excuse to buying the hobbyking kit anymore. you may need to research more to find uk local vendors, but I'd recommend one from armattan or mini quad bros. Care to suggest some kits in a similar price range from the UK? Some links would be handy. One of the things i liked about that kit was that most of the reviews said it was pretty indestructible.
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Oct 2, 2015 13:46
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Just saw this one on Flite Test, although it's their product, it does look pretty neat. You can get the whole kit or just a frame, in which case the shipping won't be too bad probably. http://store.flitetest.com/versacopter-280-quad-frame-kit/
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Oct 2, 2015 14:51
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This one might not be the best available, but it's fairly solid if you're learning and has a pretty good price. It's the one I bought and it came together pretty well. http://www.myrcmart.com/rcx-h250cf3k-fpv-quadcopter-3k-carbon-fiber-h2206-motor-hw-20a-esc-6045-kk-21-p-8401.html It comes with a flight controller as well (you can pick CC3D since KK is .. KK). No battery though. The kit you linked has a tiny battery so I suspect you'd want to upgrade before too long anyway.
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Oct 2, 2015 15:23
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DreadLlama posted:That's the thing I keep coming back to. My interest in flight drones would be well-satisfied by a kite and a camera. But it's hard to get something as heavy as a camera aloft. I tried back in the 90's when disposable waterproof film cameras were a thing. They can't get off the ground. A kite big enough to float a camera would probably need like 6 people to launch. I am not sure what the DJI/NAZA Backdoor Killswitch fear is coming from. They do have updates for the No Fly Zones around airports and a few other locations programed into the GPS, but nothing else that would cause you to be unable to fly as well as you can always get around it by flying in Manual Mode or just unplugging the GPS altogether. Either way the only time so far that it will fight you to fly, are in places that nobody should be flying a drone in the first place. Yet the news continues to come in at least once a week about some jerk doing exactly that.  Seriously though the Inspire 1 is probably one of the most impressive kits of tech for the price currently.
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Oct 2, 2015 16:06
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Slash posted:Care to suggest some kits in a similar price range from the UK? Some links would be handy. I totally forgot about the versacopter being out now. Get that and their powerpack (I'd double check to see if it had the 5v stepdown included, they aren't clear on the store page, but it might be in the build video) If not, get the myrcmart bundle. But really get the versacopter
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Oct 2, 2015 17:21
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When you have tubular arms like the versacopter, how do the motor mounts attach? Are they held in place with zipties or is there something more substantial going on there? I can't really make it out from the pictures.
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Oct 2, 2015 18:11
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Martytoof posted:When you have tubular arms like the versacopter, how do the motor mounts attach? Are they held in place with zipties or is there something more substantial going on there? I can't really make it out from the pictures. The mounts are plastic/dremlin/whatever and clamp onto the rods with bolts. They are tough to twist around the tube once tightened, but will rotate in a crash potentially saving a motor shaft, since that force has to go somewhere. Does anybody have any information on that GR-18 Rx/Flight controller combo the Flite Test guys were talking about? Info is scarce but it seems like they are just plugging the Reciever directly to the ESC's... It just runs it's own OS, no cleanflight?
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Oct 2, 2015 18:27
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Martytoof posted:When you have tubular arms like the versacopter, how do the motor mounts attach? Are they held in place with zipties or is there something more substantial going on there? I can't really make it out from the pictures. It's a sandwich with clamping blocks:  Honestly I'm not a fan of only using two screws to hold down the motor. 32MB OF ESRAM posted:The mounts are plastic/dremlin/whatever and clamp onto the rods with bolts. They are tough to twist around the tube once tightened, but will rotate in a crash potentially saving a motor shaft, since that force has to go somewhere. Delrin. A strong millable plastic that also has a very low coefficient of friction like Teflon. If they're clamping it hard enough to keep a carbon fiber tube from rotating, there's a good chance they're clamping it hard enough where that (the arms) become the point of failure during a crash. I haven't seen too many short-shaft motors bend in a crash. Usually the props and bearings are what fail. Also a lot of the miniquad motors either use threaded prop adapters or have a threaded prop mount on the bell, not actually the motor shaft itself. CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 18:31 on Oct 2, 2015 |
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Oct 2, 2015 18:27
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they explain it in detail on their videos. Having a mount possibly twist a little instead of damaging a motor for a beginner is pretty good https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWqnjDRubrs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7heiGpzAIjg That graupner flight controller / receiver is pretty cool too. edit: for fpv, get a camera (hs1177 from surveilzone would be my go to, the RunCam 600tvl 5-17v from securitycamera2000 should be the same), and the FX799T is a fine vtx you can get with support for raceband, and has 25, 200 and 600mw versions. Turnigy 9x good if you put the effort into modding and updating the firmware with opentx; otherwise I'd get the 9xr pro to do it easier (note: you'll have to get a transmitter module and receiver separate with the 9xr pro). Those graupners they have at flite test don't look too bad either, especially if you go for the fc/receiver module. Those goggles are a big investment for a first build. I linked earlier in the thread hobbyking stuff for their quanum v2 goggles. I preordered a headplay hd set of goggles in early september, mostly because they said they'd start shipping mid september. they just told me mine wont be sent out til the tenth though. LAME moron izzard fucked around with this message at 18:51 on Oct 2, 2015 |
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Oct 2, 2015 18:31
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Eh, if my drone can't keep straight in autolevel, the attitude P is way too low, right? The inner loop PIDs don't do much, except oscillate when I crank them up. Also, turns out these silly higher capacity MultiStar batteries are useless for this bigger drone, they drop voltage enough to make my warner go off 10-15 seconds after I start flight.
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Oct 2, 2015 18:58
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32MB OF ESRAM posted:Does anybody have any information on that GR-18 Rx/Flight controller combo the Flite Test guys were talking about? Info is scarce but it seems like they are just plugging the Reciever directly to the ESC's... It just runs it's own OS, no cleanflight?
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Oct 2, 2015 19:00
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Slash posted:So i think i want to get into this hobby, and i'm particularly interested in FPV Mini-Quad flying. Please critique my plan: If you're in the UK you might want to take a look at https://www.rclife.co.uk and http://www.unmannedtechshop.co.uk/
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Oct 3, 2015 11:41
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Generally speaking, are larger diameter props on equally larger motors more efficient in terms of battery life / flight time than an equivalent amount of lifting capacity from smaller props spinning faster?
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Oct 4, 2015 05:59
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DreadLlama posted:Generally speaking, are larger diameter props on equally larger motors more efficient in terms of battery life / flight time than an equivalent amount of lifting capacity from smaller props spinning faster? Larger props are more efficient. You get more lift for a given amount of input power from a bigger prop.
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Oct 4, 2015 08:37
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Nerobro posted:Larger props are more efficient. You get more lift for a given amount of input power from a bigger prop. Nah man just add more tiny props  tiny props everywhere    The arms are all the same geometry, no printing different length back arms, mid arms and front arms, so I can bang a bunch if spares out at once. The arms connect to the main frame using a V shaped channel leaving zero wiggle to the arms. Pretty proud of that. I'm using a flip32 board for the brain an a weird loving PDB that has mounting holes at 35x35mm and 45x45mm, not 30.5x30.5mm. What wierdo loving FC uses this pitch? APM? I had to print a custom mount to attach the FC to the PDB but no big deal. I thought I'd have the entire thing wired this weekend but after seeing all the wires a hex has I decided to just take my time and do a few ESC's a day. What a hastle for something that I am positive will break on it's maiden flight. If I have all my motor signals taken up going to my ESC's, can I still use those programmable WS2818 LEDs? I'm not sure if the smart LEDs are run from the PWM receiver pins or from the motor signal pins? I am using a Spektrum Satellite and are not using any of the receiver PWM pins. VVVEDIT: m3 bolts for all my frame parts, so you can go on Amazon/Ebay and get an assorted length m3 screw/bolt set. 5mm to 30mm and everything in between. As many different lengths as you can get in one kit for a decent price. Also another kit of m3 nylon spacers. Maybe buy 2+ kits at a time, you go through them quick. bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 16:54 on Oct 5, 2015 |
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Oct 5, 2015 16:29
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All you guys printing your own frames, where do you buy your screws/nuts/etc? I want to find a place to just buy a big assortment of hardware so anytime i need a screw a certain length or whatnot I already have one.
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Oct 5, 2015 16:38
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If you want nylon screws/nuts/spacers/what have you, hobby king sells a bunch of different kinds. If you want metal, hobby king or a well stocked hardware store.
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Oct 5, 2015 17:16
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http://www.mrmetric.com/ is nice for metric stuff, everything else I just go to the hardware store.
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Oct 5, 2015 18:48
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McMaster Carr also has everything you could ever want.
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Oct 5, 2015 20:57
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nerox posted:All you guys printing your own frames, where do you buy your screws/nuts/etc? I want to find a place to just buy a big assortment of hardware so anytime i need a screw a certain length or whatnot I already have one. Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 21:16 on Oct 5, 2015 |
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Oct 5, 2015 21:14
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32MB OF ESRAM posted:I'm using a flip32 board for the brain an a weird loving PDB that has mounting holes at 35x35mm and 45x45mm, not 30.5x30.5mm. What wierdo loving FC uses this pitch? APM? I had to print a custom mount to attach the FC to the PDB but no big deal. Where'd you get your PDB? Did you pick it up off eBay? I only ask because it looks like the same 12v/5v PDB I picked up that has zero labelling.
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Oct 5, 2015 21:29
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Martytoof posted:Where'd you get your PDB? Did you pick it up off eBay? I only ask because it looks like the same 12v/5v PDB I picked up that has zero labelling. I just had it sitting around because it was too large, I forget where I bought it. If you zoom in to the first pic in full you can actually read where it says "12v" at the front. The other regulator at the back has a little pot you can adjust with a screwdriver - it is variable so you can set it to 5v, 7v, 9v, etc. the variable one isn't labelled. My board is fully labelled otherwise. + and - on the big main pads, and little (barely legible) + and - at the regulators.
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Oct 5, 2015 21:40
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Hmm, mine might be a knockoff then. Gosh, a knockoff off eBay, I'm stunned 
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Oct 5, 2015 21:46
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Seems to be this one: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__55556__Quanum_Power_Distribution_Board_and_Dual_UBEC_In_One.html
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Oct 5, 2015 22:17
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Combat Pretzel posted:Seems to be this one: That's almost it, except the one I am using as the outer mounting holes at 45x45, as well as a second set that sort of covers up a bit of the solder pads at 35x35
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Oct 5, 2015 22:30
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Ok yeah, mine's definitely an eBay knockoff for like 1/4 the price 
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Oct 5, 2015 22:43
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I bought an assortment of metric hardware from https://www.microfasteners.com/ I can actually get metric hardware at the local stores but it was nice to just get a set.
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Oct 6, 2015 00:10
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I bought a ton of screws and fasteners off eBay but I'm starting to think that buying local-ish and paying for shipping is infinitely better than waiting 30-40 days to work on a project because you're waiting for cheap screws from China.
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Oct 6, 2015 00:20
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I always sort by closest on ebay now
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Oct 6, 2015 06:00
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A Yolo Wizard posted:I always sort by closest on ebay now I always chose "in north america", as that gets shipping times under a week.
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Oct 6, 2015 06:20
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A Yolo Wizard posted:I totally forgot about the versacopter being out now. Get that and their powerpack (I'd double check to see if it had the 5v stepdown included, they aren't clear on the store page, but it might be in the build video) Yep new plan is now to get the Versacopter from flite test http://store.flitetest.com/versacopter-280-quad-frame-kit/ With "Power Pack E (Racing Mini Quadcopter)". I'll still need a Flight Controller, Reciever and a Radio/Transimtter. They recommend the Graupner GR-18 (http://store.flitetest.com/graupner-gr-18-9-channel-2-4ghz-receiver/) which has an integrated FC/Reciever/Telemetry. Is this worth it? Or should i go for a naze32 and a separate receiver module? It's all a bit of a minefield when you're starting from scratch!
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Oct 6, 2015 09:39
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Slash posted:Yep new plan is now to get the Versacopter from flite test http://store.flitetest.com/versacopter-280-quad-frame-kit/ I would wait a week right now, because they are going to put up a version with some delrin pieces replaced by g10. other than that, both options for tx/rx seem fine. it looks like the mz-12 and gr-18 bundle will be $200 when it comes out - the naze32 acro, a taranis x9d and a receiver like the d4r would probably be closer to $300 (though you are getting a technically more capable radio there, and you'd have the 2nd receiver bundled with the transmitter)
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Oct 6, 2015 13:55
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A Yolo Wizard posted:I would wait a week right now, because they are going to put up a version with some delrin pieces replaced by g10. other than that, both options for tx/rx seem fine. it looks like the mz-12 and gr-18 bundle will be $200 when it comes out - the naze32 acro, a taranis x9d and a receiver like the d4r would probably be closer to $300 (though you are getting a technically more capable radio there, and you'd have the 2nd receiver bundled with the transmitter) Cool, i can hold off for a bit. Where did you get this information from? To be honest for the radio I'm leaning towards just getting a Taranis x9d + d4r package, which i can get for about £170 and add in a naze32 FC. Will have to see how much room there is in the budget. Are there any advantages/disadvantages to the various naze32 boards?
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Oct 6, 2015 16:24
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Usually the only difference is between the acro and full board. Full board has a barometric sensor for altitude and a magnetometer for compass heading, that's it. If you want to do anything with GPS you need the magnetometer.
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Oct 6, 2015 16:47
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Might as well get the full version then I guess.
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Oct 6, 2015 18:00
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Slash posted:Cool, i can hold off for a bit. Where did you get this information from? https://www.reddit.com/r/Multicopter/comments/3nl2e3/flite_test_versacopter_replacement_parts_on_the/
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Oct 6, 2015 18:00
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A Yolo Wizard posted:https://www.reddit.com/r/Multicopter/comments/3nl2e3/flite_test_versacopter_replacement_parts_on_the/ That link is concerning, perhaps i won't get the frame after all. It seems that it has some design faults.
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Oct 7, 2015 09:30
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Its really just their weird undying love of delrin. They make quality stuff in general, and I would have bought either version by now if I had the need for another frame
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Oct 7, 2015 14:08
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A Yolo Wizard posted:Its really just their weird undying love of delrin. They make quality stuff in general, and I would have bought either version by now if I had the need for another frame They do their production on in-house laser cutters. Derlin is one of the engineering plastics that's laser friendly. The alternative is acrylic.. and you don't want that. I really don't understand the complaint. The motor clamps are strong enough to not move under normal flight. If they move in a crash, you've disapated energy that would otherwise have gone to motor shafts, or the main body looking for another escape. If you're really bent out of shape about it, there's friction grease used for carbon fiber handlebars on bicycles, that does something like give 50% more stiction to any joint, and you can use that to help stop the motor mounts from pivoting on impact. http://www.competitivecyclist.com/p...cB&gclsrc=aw.ds
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Oct 7, 2015 15:09
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