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There is a stinky spot of carpet in our car, I was hoping there would be an aerosol auto carpet option that is effective but leaves little-to-no residual fragrance or order. Any recommendations? I swapped in a Fram FreshBreeze (Arm & Hammer) cabin filter and that really seemed to help, but I want to clean the trouble spot so it doesn't just fester.
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Oct 4, 2015 00:21
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Woodsy Owl posted:There is a stinky spot of carpet in our car What made it stink and how wet wast it? To begin with we have to talk about surface nasty vs. wet poo poo that got into the padding.
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Oct 4, 2015 01:26
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Recently I've been having problems with driving through puddles with my car (94 Camry). I've hit a couple unavoidable ones (this area has awful drainage and we're at or below sea level) that caused it to stall out a few hundred feet past. And one like 3 inch deep one that only my right wheel hit did the same thing. After it stalls, it won't start for maybe 2 minutes, then it's perfectly fine. This screams electrical to me, but I can't figure out what exactly. I tightened up the belt to my alternator, which I replaced maybe 4 months ago, since it was out of spec. Then I went through and wiggled and checked all the electrical connections I could with the thing running and couldn't get it to stall. The distributor and intake are on the right, so I don't think either of those would make it stall. The only other thing I can think of is that I have an exhaust leak at the flex coupling, but that doesn't seem like it make it stall from water. What other idiot checks am I missing, goons?
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Oct 4, 2015 03:10
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The loving brake pedal.
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Oct 4, 2015 03:34
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Deeters posted:Recently I've been having problems with driving through puddles with my car (94 Camry). I've hit a couple unavoidable ones (this area has awful drainage and we're at or below sea level) that caused it to stall out a few hundred feet past. And one like 3 inch deep one that only my right wheel hit did the same thing. After it stalls, it won't start for maybe 2 minutes, then it's perfectly fine. This screams electrical to me, but I can't figure out what exactly. I tightened up the belt to my alternator, which I replaced maybe 4 months ago, since it was out of spec. Then I went through and wiggled and checked all the electrical connections I could with the thing running and couldn't get it to stall. The distributor and intake are on the right, so I don't think either of those would make it stall. The only other thing I can think of is that I have an exhaust leak at the flex coupling, but that doesn't seem like it make it stall from water. If it's stalling out from puddles wiggling wires isn't the way to do it. Get under the car and squirt stuff with a hose.
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Oct 4, 2015 03:49
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rdb posted:Not saying that this is the problem, but when you drop the pan and change the fluid your only getting what's in the pan. The torque converter probably holds 1.5x that much. Those transmissions are known for failure behind the supercharged engine. Would it make a difference to have the shop do an actual flush on it? This transmission and torque converter aren't even 3 years old yet and somewhere between 50 and 60k miles. I don't beat the thing beyond standing on it to go up freeway ramps and the occasional beans for the hell of it. As you said, these gearboxes must truly be at their limit with the blown 3800s. If I do decide to keep the poor beast on the road would something like a ZZP unit be a little bit tougher? They claim as much anyway. The rest of the car is pretty solid so I will probably fix whatever is ailing it. I really do love my car and I can't imagine driving anything else so this is a total bummer for me. I took a little video earlier today. Maybe it'll help to diagnose what exactly the trouble is. Enjoy my heavy breathing. https://youtu.be/Kpn09Fh51jI
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Oct 4, 2015 04:04
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Motronic posted:What made it stink and how wet wast it? To begin with we have to talk about surface nasty vs. wet poo poo that got into the padding. We're not exactly sure what made it smell. Is there an option that would cover both? Would an interior detailing solve the issue?
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Oct 4, 2015 05:51
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95 XJ Jeep Cherokee. 4.0L. We went for a drive today exploring some tracks. We finished for the day and started to head back. We spotted what looked like a potential camping site on the side of the road and pulled over. The temperature went up. I got going because I figured it was just lack of airflow with low speed driving on dirt. It worked briefly then it went way up. I had to pull over. The coolant was vomiting out the overflow tank. Long story short we got together enough water to get back to town with a couple of stops, with it trying to overheat until the final fill, when it was "just" running around 100*C. I stopped at the shittiest supermarket in the universe to get drinks and coolant or water for the car. Couldn't get poo poo for the car but we got drinks. About two blocks later I was forced to pull over because of something my son did and I noticed water pouring out from underneath, via the overflow bottle. Limped it to a service station a block away ...which was closed of course, but they had a tap. After waiting a while I filled it up, started it, and filled it some more. That got us home to the next town with the gauge slowly creeping up to 100*C again. When we pulled up and I killed the engine it started to boil away again. The facts: *There has been an intermittent CEL. It flashes out that there's an O2 sensor problem. (Pre OBD) *Today was apparently 37*C, so it was a bit warm out. *When the engine cools below 100*C it starts to suck the coolant, well water now back in. It forms a good vacuum inside the cooling system with no signs of air leaks. Doesn't suck coolant back until it equalizes though. *When the engine warms past 100*C it starts to boil out into the overflow. *Light pressure on top of the fairly new radiator cap seems to halt the overflow. *There's no bubbling in the cooling system or cross contamination between water and coolant. I need to fix this ASAP. I'm theorizing that the O2 sensor is borderline and causing it to run lean but have no proof. What do I need to do to fix it? Can I get an O2 sensor cheaper than $150? Is the radiator cap faulty. Could the clutch fan be less than perfect? Should I bother getting coolant for it tomorrow or just keep the water in there until I've fixed it? e: Can I force it into open loop mode to avoid potential lean conditions temporarily? General_Failure fucked around with this message at 09:10 on Oct 4, 2015 |
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Oct 4, 2015 08:36
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Sounds like your overflow tank cap might be bad? Mine used to bubble over under load until I replaced the cap (forget the part number but it was from a Volvo and is a common tweak at least for 87-90 renix XJs.) Try that first at least because it's cheap and easy. Hell, replace the radiator cap too while you're at it. You're fine to leave the water in a few weeks until you fix the problem, then I'd flush and refill with 50/50 distilled water/green antifreeze. The Royal Nonesuch fucked around with this message at 09:10 on Oct 4, 2015 |
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Oct 4, 2015 09:04
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:Sounds like your overflow tank cap might be bad? Mine used to bubble over under load until I replaced the cap (forget the part number but it was from a Volvo and is a common tweak at least for 87-90 renix XJs.) Nah. It an unpressurized overflow system. The tank filled up and it ran out the little overflow spout. I do have suspicions about the radiator cap though.
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Oct 4, 2015 09:08
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I'd be worried about your water pump with those symptoms, but try the radiator cap first as it is cheaper.
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Oct 4, 2015 17:45
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  I went out quick today, and when I got back I saw this. Is this gonna cost me a fortune to fix? It's a 1996 Honda Civic, if that matters.
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Oct 4, 2015 18:08
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Best case, its a handful of plastic clips and will cost you less than $5 to fix yourself. Worst case, frame damage (probably not).
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Oct 4, 2015 18:12
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Those of you with multiple vehicles- what do you about maintenance on your infrequently driven cars? My truck only gets driven around town one day every week or two (or maybe three or four), and I'm wondering what to do about oil changes and other routine maintenance. If I go by mileage, I'd only be changing the oil like once every two years. If I go by time, I'd be changing the oil every few hundred miles. What's a good rule of thumb? At least once a year? Every six months?
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Oct 4, 2015 18:32
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BLARGHLE posted:Those of you with multiple vehicles- what do you about maintenance on your infrequently driven cars? Every 3 - 6 months is probably okay. The PO of my Miata had been putting in premium gas. It definitely doesn't require it and I've just been putting in premium too. I want to switch to regular gas. Should I wait until the tank is almost empty and then fill it up or just put in regular the next time I fill up?
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Oct 4, 2015 18:49
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  It's a little hard to see in the pictures but there are pools of oil around the exhaust valves of my engine (1986 Mazda B2000). Is this quantity normal? It's been smoking like crazy lately; previously it would just smoke for 30 seconds one some mornings, but as of last week no amount of idling seems to stop the smoking. From what I've seen online these trucks seem to be prone to bad valve seals. It looks reasonably straightforward/easy to replace the seals, especially since I've only got 8; is it? I have a $12 Harbor Freight spring compressor and 100 feet of paracord to stuff in the cylinders, which is apparently about all you need.
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Oct 4, 2015 19:12
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BLARGHLE posted:Those of you with multiple vehicles- what do you about maintenance on your infrequently driven cars? 6-8 months between oil changes, use premium gas and put stabil in it if you're not draining the tank once every month or two, and a treatment with a battery tender once in a while can't hurt.
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Oct 4, 2015 19:33
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Agreed. I normally take the battery out and put it on a conditioner in the garage instead.
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Oct 4, 2015 19:36
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Godholio posted:Best case, its a handful of plastic clips and will cost you less than $5 to fix yourself. Worst case, frame damage (probably not). Thanks. I was able to push it back on, and I think I'll be able to reatach the bolt on one side. The other one seems to be broken though, so I'm not sure what do to about that. Like so: 
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Oct 4, 2015 20:34
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8ender posted:6-8 months between oil changes, use premium gas and put stabil in it if you're not draining the tank once every month or two, and a treatment with a battery tender once in a while can't hurt. I do run premium, but I have been inconsistent with the fuel stabilizer. On the other hand, I only ever put 1/2-3/4 of a tank in it, simply because it gets driven so little. I honestly can't remember the last time I changed the oil...sometime during the winter, I think, so I guess I'm due for another one. I've been doing full synthetic for the last few changes, because costco has it for about the same price as regular oil, so I really hope they're still carrying that.
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Oct 4, 2015 20:39
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I am changing the spark plugs on my 1970 plymouth duster and the plugs I got from advance auto have about 1/3" longer threaded area. The engine is a 225 slant six and amazon and everything says these are the correct plugs. Is this something to worry about? I dont want my plugs getting his by the pistons. Old plugs are Champion RV17YC and the new are NGK GR4's.
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Oct 4, 2015 20:45
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You can just turn the engine over by hand to check. Sounds like someone fitted the wrong plugs previously?
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Oct 4, 2015 20:48
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Run the champions. That engine and ants the shortest coppers you can find anyway.
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Oct 4, 2015 20:48
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EightBit posted:I'd be worried about your water pump with those symptoms, but try the radiator cap first as it is cheaper. I hope not. That'd make two vehicles in the stable with suspect water pumps. I do find it interesting that light pressure on the cap stopped the overflow. The outer cap seal is holding fine and the inner looks fine but it may not be holding against pressure. I went through something not entirely different with the Niva a few months back. The inner cap seal had become a little unseated. Pushing it back into place stopped the boiling. Sadly the Jeep's cap looks fine. First thing I checked when I took it off. Prick of a thing is I'm sure the nearest cap would be at Repco over the border. Assuming the Niva holds up to the upcoming stress test today I'll be going for a drive tomorrow anyway and will stop off to get a cap. Can't hurt. Spare rad caps are always good anyway.
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Oct 4, 2015 20:57
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Grumbletron 4000 posted:Would it make a difference to have the shop do an actual flush on it? This transmission and torque converter aren't even 3 years old yet and somewhere between 50 and 60k miles. I don't beat the thing beyond standing on it to go up freeway ramps and the occasional beans for the hell of it. As you said, these gearboxes must truly be at their limit with the blown 3800s. I have had great luck with ZZP products for my cobalt SS/TC... not that it speaks for their transmission. Personally I wouldn't bother with a flush at this point and would take it back to the shop under warranty. 50k does seem a bit short.
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Oct 4, 2015 21:09
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Enourmo posted:If it's stalling out from puddles wiggling wires isn't the way to do it. Get under the car and squirt stuff with a hose. I was hoping that would find a loose connection, which might let water in. I tried squirting stuff with a spray bottle and got nothing, so I might try a hose when the weather clears up some. I know not to hit random puddles at full speed. I was going around 15 when I hit the smaller ones that caused it to stall, that's what caused me to think it was more than my own lovely driving.
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Oct 4, 2015 21:20
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2008 Honda Civic Coupe One of the bolt holes that holds the sun visor to the roof is stripping. The bolt appears fine. How should I go about fixing this without making it suck for the next owner? I am selling this car and the visor also needs to be replaced (we never got it recalled.)
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Oct 4, 2015 21:31
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Deeters posted:I was hoping that would find a loose connection, which might let water in. I tried squirting stuff with a spray bottle and got nothing, so I might try a hose when the weather clears up some. You could have a mechanically solid connection (which works perfectly fine when dry) that shorts out when wet, by providing a path to ground that isn't there when dry. Even bad weather seals on the back of a connector could do this without affecting dry performance.
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Oct 4, 2015 22:22
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Followup question from before. Can someone help me with my homework? 1994 4.0 Jeep Cherokee. Sorry about that. It has a compliance date of '95 but a build date tag for Sept '94. I was looking on eBay for an O2 sensor. After reading back the codes it's still the only important one. The other one was a battery disconnect. Anyway after spending some time looking at sensors I concluded I have no drat idea which sort I need. Please tell me? Also please tell me about O2 sensor sockets?
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Oct 4, 2015 22:55
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I can't help you with the right sensor, but the specific nature of the sensor sockets is they have a slot in them so the wiring can hang out the side. Now, in my experience, if replacing a dead sensor, you can do without them. You don't care about the old sensor, so the wiriing can just be cut to let you use a regular socket, and a normal spanner will let you get the new one in just fine. Sometimes they can be very uncooperative about being removed, so be prepared for that.
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Oct 4, 2015 23:11
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Chevrolet Astrovan, 1995, AWD (Head/intake gasket issue?) So I've spent god knows how much time and money fixing this thing up since I bought it six months ago. (fluids, sparks, rotator, filters, idler arms, fuel pressure regulator plus customizing the interior) and then about a month ago (just as it was strting to run right) it almost overheated (110-115 C). Had used up the reservoir and what I originally hoped was just a low fluid issue turns out it's blowing white smoke. A little at startup and then after a few minutes clouds of it. This tells me a gasket has blown and it's probably hosed. In addition to that the exhaust still smells pretty fuel-y, plus oil smells a bit the same but there's no leaking in the upper intake manifold so idk wtf that could be. I started taking the manifolds off in the hopes that it was an lower manifold intake gasket but quickly realized I don't have the tools to put it back together again (I have a good socket set and that's about it). What do you guys think I should do? Assume it's a head and junk it? Or should I continue down what could be a fools errand and try to check/replace the lower intake gasket and then put it back together?
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Oct 4, 2015 23:26
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Anyone ever run into sparkplugs that didn't fit into a standard sized spark plug socket for a wrench? The ones I'm trying to put in need a bigger socket but theres no clearance for the socket on the engine.
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Oct 4, 2015 23:58
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InitialDave posted:I can't help you with the right sensor, but the specific nature of the sensor sockets is they have a slot in them so the wiring can hang out the side. Now, in my experience, if replacing a dead sensor, you can do without them. You don't care about the old sensor, so the wiriing can just be cut to let you use a regular socket, and a normal spanner will let you get the new one in just fine. Oh, nice. Thanks. I realised a little while ago that the water pump is fine. I even indirectly said it earlier. yesterday when I filled the radiator with water at the closed service station I started the engine to burp the system and put the rest of the water in. Instant level drop. The water pump is circulating fine. Also when it got hot initially after we had stopped on the road and waited for a while I was putting water in and starting the motor for a few seconds every so often to circulate out the hot water in the engine for the cooler water in the radiator. So yeah that's not it. My best guess is still a bad radiator cap / lean condition combo.
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Oct 5, 2015 00:02
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Brightest OEM replacement headlight? My girlfriend bought a 2010 Honda Insight and the headlights are terrible. We're going to polish the oxidation off and make sure they're properly leveled but we're looking for a brighter than stock H11 bulb. I understand we're probably going to eat a fair amount of reliability, 200 hours of life is acceptable for a significant brightness increase. What are your experiences?
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Oct 5, 2015 00:16
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Outrail posted:Chevrolet Astrovan, 1995, AWD (Head/intake gasket issue?) What kind of condition is the rest of the van in? That 4.3 v6 is pretty cheap to fix. If the condition is good, I would remove the heads, have them checked for flatness/cracks, and replace the gaskets. It's probably a fools errand to just replace the lower intake gaskets.
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Oct 5, 2015 00:42
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CarForumPoster posted:Brightest OEM replacement headlight? I'd look into overseas brands - something from Narva, Flosser or Osram/GE's European offerings. Most "brighter" bulbs sold in the US are just overdriven standard halogens with a blue coating that gives the appearance of being brighter, but actually deliver fewer lumens than a bone stock OE bulb. Sometimes you can find them on Amazon or E-Bay, or Daniel Stern sells bulbs and can order in bulb types not listed on that page. e: just noticed you need H11s...its also possible to modify the base of a H9 bulb (a bit of metal needs trimmed where the bulb twists into the headlight and there's an extra plastic tab on the harness connector that needs to be removed) to fit an H11 housing. H9s have nearly double output (range is 1700-2400 lumens, vs. 1100-1400 for H11s) in exchange for about half the lifespan (250 hours vs. 500.) Geoj fucked around with this message at 01:14 on Oct 5, 2015 |
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Oct 5, 2015 00:44
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General_Failure posted:Followup question from before. Can someone help me with my homework? Rockauto lists 11 different compatible 02 sensors... Mopar #56028301 being the most expensive at $61. BOSCH #15704 at $24 and NTK #23023 at $28 being midrange. I have an NTK in my XJ and recommend it... the older pre91 XJs prefer those, not sure about yours but it's a good brand/safe bet. I can't remember the cutoff year when the 4.0s went to up and downstream 02s but IIRC you probably need more than 1 sensor. The jeep thread will be able to tell you for sure. I used a crescent wrench + cheater pipe to remove/install my O2. The Royal Nonesuch fucked around with this message at 00:58 on Oct 5, 2015 |
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Oct 5, 2015 00:51
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rdb posted:What kind of condition is the rest of the van in? That 4.3 v6 is pretty cheap to fix. If the condition is good, I would remove the heads, have them checked for flatness/cracks, and replace the gaskets. It's probably a fools errand to just replace the lower intake gaskets. I paid $1300 for it and got ripped off. The body is in good condition with almost no rust (not bad in salty Canada). The mechanics are kinda crap but there's been a bit or work done on it over the last two years (the last owner was a moron though, switched two spark plugs and left them like that for months). It's running a little rich but if the white smoke/over heating/oil pressure fluctuation issue could be fixed I'd be pretty happy. When you say remove the heads you mean replace a head gasket? Isn't that somewhere in the region of $1200? So if that's what I'm looking at I'm better off getting ~$500 for scrap and looking at my options from there. Also if it's the intake and not the head I've wasted money I don't have. Outrail fucked around with this message at 01:36 on Oct 5, 2015 |
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Oct 5, 2015 01:32
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Geoj posted:
I did this exact change on my 2013 Prius C. The only thing that needed modification in my case was the plastic "key" inside the bulb's connector. WAY more light, and looks 100% stock. My car has projector lens lights, so the cutoff stays normal, and it doesn't blind people. The best part? You don't have to send away for a crazy expensive set of bulbs - an H9 is like $11.
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Oct 5, 2015 01:42
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Outrail posted:I paid $1300 for it and got ripped off. The body is in good condition with almost no rust (not bad in salty Canada). The mechanics are kinda crap but there's been a bit or work done on it over the last two years (the last owner was a moron though, switched two spark plugs and left them like that for months). Ok, I can't speak for Canada but in the states scrap is super low right now because of the collapsed commodities market. I scrapped 6500lbs of steel recently for a grand total of ~$300. $500 seems unlikely. Any $1300 vehicle you buy is going to be a mess of problems. The head gasket job is $1200 if you have someone else do it. I was suggesting giving it a shot yourself. You will need some additional tools like a torque wrench, and it's a bitch to get rusty manifolds off, but the job is possible to do at home. Your removing the intake before the heads come off anyways, so you would know before you got that far. How bad is the oil pressure? It's normal for it to fluctuate with rpm and temperature.
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Oct 5, 2015 02:11
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