|
finally found a way to get spray primer while overseas (aerosol shipping rules  )v stoked to get started on my IA figs tonight 
The Mantis fucked around with this message at 09:50 on Oct 5, 2015 |
#
?
Oct 5, 2015 09:35
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 11, 2024 08:56 |
|
|
TheCosmicMuffet posted:I love it. There's a reason my latest battlesuit has neither thunder thighs nor a giant robo-dong.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2015 14:49
|
|
|
Had a weird thing happen last night. I was putting in a base coat of Citadel's Castellan Green and noticed the paint was clumping on the tip of my brush. It gummed up pretty solid and probably ruined the brush. I thought maybe I'd gotten varnish in my water or on the brush or something so I grabbed fresh water and a crappy brush and it happened again. I wasn't doing anything different from what I usually do (brush dipped in water, then lightly into the pot, wiping excess off on the pot lip) and the pot was well shaken. The pot was probably a year and a half or two years old, I don't use it often but never had a problem with it before. Has anyone ever had this happen?
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2015 15:03
|
|
|
Don't know what might have caused that, apart from the age of the paint (not sure, just a wild guess), but you can probably fix the brush by soaking it in white spirits/clean spirits - just clip the brush handle to the edge of a glass jar so the bristles aren't touching the bottom of the jar.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2015 15:14
|
|
|
I had the same problem with a Model Master metallic green, that pot was also incredibly old.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2015 15:25
|
|
|
Z the IVth posted:There's a reason my latest battlesuit has neither thunder thighs nor a giant robo-dong. You let them compromise your art.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2015 17:19
|
|
|
TheCosmicMuffet posted:You let them compromise your art. I did it man, I sold out to the Goon.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2015 19:59
|
|
|
Xposting from the warhams thread - It's been a while - but remember these guys?      Photobombing the first shot, a Techpriest Dominus and a bunch of (magnetized) Kataphrons. I'm aware the focus is hosed up. But yeah, finally got some work done on these guys! The basic colors are now blocked out and I gave them all a thorough wash with Seraphim Sepia. I'm letting them dry overnight before I start cleaning up and highlighting them. Not pictured, a Forge World Fire Raptor I ended up finally finishing up for them - I gave it a gloss varnish coat earlier and I'll slap it with a matt varnish tomorrow before I start taking pictures. I'm finally painting again and it feels great to finish up old projects, eeeeee~ 
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2015 21:30
|
|
|
I've finished up the first transport for The Blood Axes! I call it Da Scrumvee:      And with the boyz: 
|
|
#
?
Oct 6, 2015 01:20
|
|
|
SRM posted:I've finished up the first transport for The Blood Axes! I call it Da Scrumvee: I'd almost go with Scrumtrack.
|
|
#
?
Oct 6, 2015 01:43
|
|
|
Cooked Auto posted:I'd almost go with Scrumtrack. Scrumtrack is only one letter off from Scruntrack, which is a mental image I really don't need.
|
|
#
?
Oct 6, 2015 01:58
|
|
|
SRM posted:Scrumtrack is only one letter off from Scruntrack, which is a mental image I really don't need. Yeah I admit my mind wandered in a very similar direction after I had posted that.
|
|
#
?
Oct 6, 2015 03:01
|
|
|
XPostin form the 40k thread: BULBASAUR posted:God drat the SRM train has no breaks and never stops. In the time he's modeled 2 tanks and painted one I barely finished my Dark Admech Magi:
|
|
#
?
Oct 6, 2015 04:55
|
|
|
If it makes you feel any better, I think those are pretty cool.
|
|
#
?
Oct 6, 2015 05:14
|
|
|
I have way too much stuff on my plate :/ Not pictured: all the other stuff.
|
|
#
?
Oct 6, 2015 07:09
|
|
|
Disclaimer: I live in the third world Wanting to spray prime my plastic figs, but was only able to find what appears to be labeled "white gloss." How hosed am I?
|
|
#
?
Oct 6, 2015 17:10
|
|
|
The Mantis posted:Disclaimer: I live in the third world Fairly. You don't want gloss for priming minis. Paint won't stick to gloss.
|
|
#
?
Oct 6, 2015 17:46
|
|
|
The Mantis posted:Disclaimer: I live in the third world I'm pretty sure that anything called "gloss" won't be good at accepting more paint on top of it. Primer paints can be bought in jars, if you can't get cans delivered. Priming by hand is no fun of course, and the result can be rough on fine detail.
|
|
#
?
Oct 6, 2015 17:51
|
|
|
You shouldn't have any detail loss with brush-on primer. Just thin it a bit like you would with paint and go to town. It'll probably look a little streaky, but that's fine. You just need a thin coat to get the paint to stick. You can also use an airbrush and it works really well, but that's not necessary. The only real downside from rattlecan is that it takes more time to brush on the primer. My personal preference is Vallejo surface primer, but there are a lot of different brush-on primers you can get.
|
|
#
?
Oct 6, 2015 18:12
|
|
|
HerrMorden posted:I have way too much stuff on my plate :/ Don't eat painted miniatures they are rife with toxins! On the reals, though: I tell any hobbyist to buy one box at a time and complete assembly/painting before moving on.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2015 00:49
|
|
|
If for whatever reason you can't use spray, why not try liquid gesso instead of primer paint? It does a much better job of preserving detail.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2015 03:13
|
|
|
I'm tellin' you guys, if you're having trouble keeping details with brush-on primer, you are applying it /way/ too thick.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2015 04:46
|
|
|
Test model I'm working on. Not sure what I think about the color scheme... Something just doesn't feel right.  
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2015 08:11
|
|
|
SRM posted:Fairly. You don't want gloss for priming minis. Paint won't stick to gloss. Decorus posted:I'm pretty sure that anything called "gloss" won't be good at accepting more paint on top of it. Primer paints can be bought in jars, if you can't get cans delivered. Priming by hand is no fun of course, and the result can be rough on fine detail. damnit. thanks for the input. What are the chances I can get this level of white/tan with a grey base coat?  Sorry for the basic-rear end questions.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2015 08:36
|
|
|
Patience and many coats of thinned paint are all that stand between you, and your destiny.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2015 08:55
|
|
|
Cyclomatic posted:Test model I'm working on. Not sure what I think about the color scheme... Something just doesn't feel right. It's good work. My gut says that you want your grays on the cool side instead of the warm, but I don't have a color theory justification for that.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2015 11:47
|
|
|
The Mantis posted:damnit. thanks for the input. It takes a few coats, like the other guy said you'll need to thin the paint down. But if you're starting from grey you'll get the shading for free, sort of.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2015 13:15
|
|
|
The Mantis posted:Disclaimer: I live in the third world You should be able to find automotive spray primer, which will work. Failing that have you thought about gouache paints? Those might be easier to come by in an art supply store.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2015 13:45
|
|
|
The Mantis posted:What are the chances I can get this level of white/tan with a grey base coat? Plenty of people enter minis (of all colors) into painting competitions that have been primed in gray. You're fine.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2015 17:22
|
|
|
SRM posted:I've finished up the first transport for The Blood Axes! I call it Da Scrumvee: Looks amazing, but for the love of god Montressor, white balance!
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2015 18:05
|
|
|
Gareth Gobulcoque posted:It's good work. My gut says that you want your grays on the cool side instead of the warm, but I don't have a color theory justification for that. The color theory justification is that yellow and blue provide a good compliment, and right now the warmth of the grays is making the profile too busy and breaking the focal point of the model. Cool it out with a duller, bluer gray on the arms, at least, and then the eye will have a natural hierarchy of the bright yellow parts, then the gentler grays and darker blue.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2015 19:04
|
|
|
Sweet.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2015 19:09
|
|
|
Makes sense.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2015 19:26
|
|
|
Sydney Bottocks posted:The 2nd moisture trap is one I got off of Amazon, it has a pressure regulator built in. So I can dial up the PSI on the compressor, and then adjust the PSI to the airbrush on the fly if needed. Been using it fine for several months now with no problems. Ilor posted:Those loving own. Best use of the lovely Taurox mini I've ever seen. JackMann posted:They need to go goofier. 40K is not and never will be a serious setting.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2015 20:33
|
|
|
Is there a more paste like gap filler instead of the putty like green stuff? Not for sculpting, but repairing surfaces and filling in holes, where brittle is OK.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2015 20:52
|
|
|
berzerkmonkey posted:Nah, it's always been semi-serious, just tongue in cheek. 40K shouldn't be goofy, it should just be over the top. Which is this? 
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2015 21:05
|
|
|
berzerkmonkey posted:Which one are you using? I need to get a setup like that - I like the "adjust on the fly" option. 40K space marines will never not look goofy. Frickin' pauldrons, man.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2015 21:15
|
|
|
TheCosmicMuffet posted:Which is this? For all the work they put into it, they could have at least drilled the barrels or cleaned those mold lines
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2015 21:22
|
|
|
TheCosmicMuffet posted:Which is this? Objectively kind of dumb. JackMann posted:40K space marines will never not look goofy. Frickin' pauldrons, man.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2015 21:28
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 11, 2024 08:56 |
|
|
Cyclomatic posted:Is there a more paste like gap filler instead of the putty like green stuff? Not for sculpting, but repairing surfaces and filling in holes, where brittle is OK. Acrylic modeling (or molding) paste. You can get a 16-ounce tub from liquitex or Golden for about fifteen to twenty bucks.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2015 21:28
|
|