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What type of plants are you interested in growing?
This poll is closed.
Perennials! 142 20.91%
Annuals! 30 4.42%
Woody plants! 62 9.13%
Succulent plants! 171 25.18%
Tropical plants! 60 8.84%
Non-vascular plants are the best! 31 4.57%
Screw you, I'd rather eat them! 183 26.95%
Total: 679 votes
[Edit Poll (moderators only)]

 
Fitzy Fitz
May 14, 2005




For air flow, you can modify a computer fan to plug into an outlet. They're small and already designed for mounting, so they work well.

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foxatee
Feb 27, 2010

That foxatee is always making a Piggles out of herself.
My daughter and I were walking around the neighborhood and came across this weird thing:


What is it from? Dogwood? Some sort of mulberry? I know there's a dogwood tree on the other side of the cul-de-sac, but that's not where we found these; and although they look similar to the fruit on the dogwood, they didn't look entirely the same. Ideas?

kedo
Nov 27, 2007

kid sinister posted:

I would buy some 18" T5 fluorescent fixtures and stick some grow bulbs in them. Little 18 inch ones come with a cord already attached along with the ballast and starter, everything you need you need to drive a grow bulb. As for attaching them, maybe some double sided tape? That should be easy to get off the glass later with a window scraper.

Edit: if you really want to get fancy, get an electric timer for them too. Christmas is coming up, so you shouldn't have a hard time finding an outdoor grade one. Make sure to get one with a 3 prong outlet if you need one. Don't forget: you can plug a power strip behind the timer if you need to power several lights. I've done that before with grow lights during the winter when I lived in an apartment.

That seems like it'd work quite well. Thanks for the recommendation!

unprofessional posted:

Don't overcomplicate it. A sunny window is going to be your best bet, and a Ssscat will take care of the kitty problem.

Yeah... I'm not trying to, but I do worry about sunlight with the UV coating on my windows. I live in a small apartment and while I have southern exposure, the way my building is situated next to other tall buildings means that I only get about two to four hours of direct sunlight in the winter and that sunlight is filtered through the coating on my windows. The rest of the time I get bounced light from other buildings. I'm not expecting to see a lot of new growth over the winter, but from what I've read (and please correct me if I"m wrong here), citrus needs more than two to four hours per day?

Ssscat is a good call, though. I didn't even know something like that existed.

Fitzy Fitz posted:

For air flow, you can modify a computer fan to plug into an outlet. They're small and already designed for mounting, so they work well.

Amusingly I saw a video the other day where someone had done this for growing peppers indoors. I'll have to look into how you go about modifying it. Thanks!

Fitzy Fitz
May 14, 2005




foxatee posted:

My daughter and I were walking around the neighborhood and came across this weird thing:


What is it from? Dogwood? Some sort of mulberry? I know there's a dogwood tree on the other side of the cul-de-sac, but that's not where we found these; and although they look similar to the fruit on the dogwood, they didn't look entirely the same. Ideas?

That really looks like some sort of dogwood to me. Like an undeveloped Cornus kousa fruit.

EagerSleeper
Feb 3, 2010

by R. Guyovich

foxatee posted:

My daughter and I were walking around the neighborhood and came across this weird thing:


No idea what it is, but A++++, very colorful and pretty! Would eat (and probably die). Worth it.


In regards to UV coating and radiation, plants don't necessarily need light sources that provide parts of the UV spectrum (reptiles do though) since it's just as harmful to them as it is to us. They can get by with only the visible spectrum of light just fine, as long as it's marketed as a grow light.. Also, good thing you decided to ask this question now after I did my research binge and purchased an LED grow light bulb for my own little house plant too. :)

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

kedo posted:

That seems like it'd work quite well. Thanks for the recommendation!

Oh crap, I got it wrong. Most 18 inch under cabinet fixtures take a T8 bulb, not a T5. For fluorescents, the "T" size refers to the diameter of the bulb, where a "T" is equal to 1/8 an inch.

You should be able to pick up both the fixture and the bulb at any hardware store, along with the mounting tape and a glass scraper for later.

edit: feel free to get longer fixtures if need be. Just make sure that they have cords pre-attached and that they have grow bulbs available for them.

kid sinister fucked around with this message at 22:52 on Oct 7, 2015

foxatee
Feb 27, 2010

That foxatee is always making a Piggles out of herself.

Fitzy Fitz posted:

That really looks like some sort of dogwood to me. Like an undeveloped Cornus kousa fruit.
Cornus × rutgersensis. It's a hybrid, apparently. The drawings match what I've got perfectly. Pretty neat. Thanks!

kedo
Nov 27, 2007

kid sinister posted:

Oh crap, I got it wrong. Most 18 inch under cabinet fixtures take a T8 bulb, not a T5. For fluorescents, the "T" size refers to the diameter of the bulb, where a "T" is equal to 1/8 an inch.

You should be able to pick up both the fixture and the bulb at any hardware store, along with the mounting tape and a glass scraper for later.

edit: feel free to get longer fixtures if need be. Just make sure that they have cords pre-attached and that they have grow bulbs available for them.

I looked up 18'' fluorescent grow bulbs and found a bunch of packages that come with the mount and the bulbs for > $40. I may end up grabbing one of those.

General Apathy
Apr 5, 2009
Does anyone have any experience with growing ferns from spores? I have had some growing for over a year now, but they are still stuck at the gametophyte stage.
As far as I can tell I'm doing everything right, is there anything else I can do other than misting them with water?

hasegawa
Dec 30, 2008

Wedge Regret
I've got an old cactus with some issues. History: I bought this thing when I was a kid, maybe 9 - 10 years old (I am 29 today, so this cactus is definitely pushing 20 years old). My mother took care of it after I lost interest as a kid, and it continued growing in its own weird way. Now that I'm gaining an interest in plants as an adult, I re-adopted the cactus from Mom to see what I can do for it.

This thing has always had the scarring around the base, and over the past decade or so it grew attained the bizarro bulbous shape you see today (guessing it was pot bound when it was younger, or some other stress caused the scarring). But, I'm actually interested in the white stuff on top. I suspect this plant is sick with something.

The entire album is here:
http://imgur.com/a/9TVcC

The white stuff on top is powdery, and I can brush it off with a Q-tip.

Here, you can sort of see it running down the grooves at the sides


A few years back, this cactus started growing a new cactus on the side. It too, has the white stuff on its crown:


Some of the white stuff is in the form of...pillars or towers. I initially thought the cactus was trying to grow more escape pods, but these things actually fall off. Maybe they're pillars of disease bugs or something?



This cactus has had several problems...it was pot-bound for the longest time, and I'm pretty sure my mom was over-watering it (once or twice a week), which would explain the green soil it had when I rescued it. The plant seemed to be doing ok though, because it even started flowing within the past couple of years. But now, the white stuff seems to be spreading, and I don't know what it is. I thought it might be mealybugs or something, so I've doused this cactus with ortho garden pesticide a few times, but the white stuff is still here.

Anybody have any clues what is wrong with this janky-rear end cactus?

a forbidden love
Apr 28, 2005

"It was never meant to beep boop be"
Can anyone point me in the right direction for getting a free in depth guide for growing and caring for miracle berry shrub/bush? I've had one for about 2 years (bought it when it was 1) and it's about the same size and no fruit nor have I ever seen any flowers. Leaves are green and free of disease. :iiam:

unprofessional
Apr 26, 2007
All business.
Just needs a lot of sun to flower/fruit. Where are you growing it?

Zeris
Apr 15, 2003

Quality posting direct from my brain to your face holes.
I got some marimos off of amazon. They're cool. They live in these jars I have. That is all.

Pucklynn
Sep 8, 2010

chop chop chop
What's the difference between a grow light and a regular fluorescent bulb? I have an indoor setup that just uses the standard cool bulbs that came with my lights and it works great. I am planning to add "warm" bulbs when I get paid next, but am I missing anything by not having grow lights?

Flattened Spoon
Dec 31, 2007

a forbidden love posted:

Can anyone point me in the right direction for getting a free in depth guide for growing and caring for miracle berry shrub/bush? I've had one for about 2 years (bought it when it was 1) and it's about the same size and no fruit nor have I ever seen any flowers. Leaves are green and free of disease. :iiam:

Don't know anything about them but sometimes trees/shrubs need a few years to settle themselves and develop their roots after you plant them before they start doing anything. It was only 1 year old though so I'd expect it to grow somewhat. Is it planted or in a pot? If it's in a pot, you need a really big pot to grow a larger plant.

Wikipedia: The plant grows best in soils with a pH as low as 4.5 to 5.8, in an environment free from frost and in partial shade with high humidity. It is tolerant of drought, full sunshine and slopes. The plants first bear fruit after growing for approximately 3–4 years, and produce two crops per year, after the end of the rainy season. This evergreen plant produces small, red berries, while white flowers are produced for many months of the year.

Don't know your situation but googling around seems to provide more information.

Flattened Spoon
Dec 31, 2007

Pucklynn posted:

What's the difference between a grow light and a regular fluorescent bulb? I have an indoor setup that just uses the standard cool bulbs that came with my lights and it works great. I am planning to add "warm" bulbs when I get paid next, but am I missing anything by not having grow lights?

Grow lights can deliver a more efficient spectrum of light for the plant to use for photosynthesis. Wavelengths of light the plant can't use is wasted energy, and if you're lights are giving off more of the spectrum the plant can't use, you can harm the plant because it needs to deal with that extra energy hitting it.

That said, people use regular cool and warm fluorescent bulbs just fine. Depending on what you're growing, though, they might not be powerful enough. Grow lights are nice to have if you have the monies but not strictly necessary.

unprofessional
Apr 26, 2007
All business.
The best all around, cheapo bulbs are 6500k, which is generally listed as "day light." Don't pay extra for the same thing labeled as a grow light.

EagerSleeper
Feb 3, 2010

by R. Guyovich
I recommended getting a bulb labelled as a grow light because I'm a first timer, and I wanted to make sure that the bulb would be good enough for a plant. I'm also the type of person to buy an automated aerogarden to take the guesswork out indoor growing, so take that as you will. :v:

EagerSleeper fucked around with this message at 06:25 on Oct 19, 2015

Flattened Spoon
Dec 31, 2007
I've been using CFL's like https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/59543/FC55-DT5565RS.html and they've been working great. We recently disassembled our pool and I've been using the aluminum structural supports as reflectors since they're the perfect shape for them. Hook up your own ballasts and you're gtg.

foxatee
Feb 27, 2010

That foxatee is always making a Piggles out of herself.
So a while back i posted about my daughter's mystery plant, and no one seemed to be able to identify it. It has since grown and has developed these flower things:




Any ideas on what this might be, or how I may go about identifying it? I really wish I knew what seeds the library gave her. I mean, even if it turns out to be a weed, I can't get rid of it since she's grown attached to it. Any help is appreciated.

Bees on Wheat
Jul 18, 2007

I've never been happy



QUAIL DIVISION
Buglord
Looks like strawflower to me. Are the petals stiff and sort of plastic-y?

My mom used to grow these in her wildflower garden and dry them for floral arrangements. They tend to keep their shape and color very nicely. :3:

foxatee
Feb 27, 2010

That foxatee is always making a Piggles out of herself.
I think that might be it! I'm reading around a bit and looking at other photos. The petals are very stiff and crunchy, and that seems to hold up to the descriptions. Thank you!

fknlo
Jul 6, 2009


Fun Shoe
Not sure if this is the right thread, but a pine tree in my yard has a decent amount of brown needles and is shedding a lot of them. I think it might be just the normal yearly thing, but I don't remember this much brown or dropped needles from last year.




Looks like the tips are healthy, right? Normal or do I need to get someone to look at it?

Bees on Wheat
Jul 18, 2007

I've never been happy



QUAIL DIVISION
Buglord
I'm no expert, but it looks like a fungal infection.

Pogo the Clown
Sep 5, 2007
Spoke to the devil the other day

fknlo posted:

Not sure if this is the right thread, but a pine tree in my yard has a decent amount of brown needles and is shedding a lot of them. I think it might be just the normal yearly thing, but I don't remember this much brown or dropped needles from last year.




Looks like the tips are healthy, right? Normal or do I need to get someone to look at it?

It's always hard to tell from just a photo, but I assume that is a White Pine and it looks to me like the normal fall needle drop. White Pines hang onto their needles for 4-6 years and shed the old (inner) needles in the fall. This normal needle drop can be magnified if the tree has been stressed (drought, root damage, etc) but is still usually ok.

If the tips start to die or if the needle drop continues out of the fall season, then it's time to panic a bit. Most conifer fungal infections have no practical treatment. Best you can do is mulch the ground and make sure it has plenty of water.

unprofessional
Apr 26, 2007
All business.

Pogo the Clown posted:

It's always hard to tell from just a photo, but I assume that is a White Pine and it looks to me like the normal fall needle drop.

This is correct. You can give them a shake to hasten the transition if it's buggin' you. The needles make an okay mulch, if you can't get wood chips.

Marchegiana
Jan 31, 2006

. . . Bitch.
Yeah, pretty much every pine in my neighborhood looks like that right now. Totally normal.

kedo
Nov 27, 2007

What are these little insects on my ghost pepper plant and how do I get rid of them?



I wish I could get a better picture, but if I move/zoom any closer and it gets all blurry. I didn't notice them until I brought the plant indoors for the winter. I just neem oiled the hell out of it yesterday and today they seem to be more plentiful than ever.

Any ideas? I'm assuming they're the cause of the leaf discoloration which has also resulted in the plant losing at least half its leaves.

e: Looking at this page I think they might be thrips? Does that seem right? If so it looks like neem oil is one of the suggested insecticides. Maybe I just need to hit it a few more times.

kedo fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Nov 6, 2015

Mr. Soop
Feb 18, 2011

Bonsai Guy
Looks like thrips. Some neem oil+soap+water spray will take care of them in a cinch, that or you can buy yellow sticky traps. (They don't like to fly into the blue ones nearly as much.)

kedo
Nov 27, 2007

Mr. Soop posted:

Looks like thrips. Some neem oil+soap+water spray will take care of them in a cinch, that or you can buy yellow sticky traps. (They don't like to fly into the blue ones nearly as much.)

Ah cool, I have some yellow sticky traps laying around from when I had fruit flies. Didn't realize it would work for thirps as well.

It's always some sort of pest with indoor plants.

a forbidden love
Apr 28, 2005

"It was never meant to beep boop be"

unprofessional posted:

Just needs a lot of sun to flower/fruit. Where are you growing it?

I now have it in a pot (50% perlite 50% peat moss) getting direct sunlight in the evenings and indirect sunlight during the day in my back porch. I had it inside with a bag covering the pot to help with humidity but admittedly I had/have no idea if I was helping or hurting.

Bought it when it was about a year old (10 inches) and have had it for two (about 18 inches now). I transferred it to a bigger pot at 2 years because it was getting too big for the little pot it was in. I bought a way bigger pot because I didn't want to keep transferring pots every couple of years. I haven't seen it flower at all since I've had it. The lady was very adamant that it was a "girl" tree. I keep the acidity levels at around 4.5 thanks to my handy soil testing kit.

Flattened Spoon posted:

Don't know anything about them but sometimes trees/shrubs need a few years to settle themselves and develop their roots after you plant them before they start doing anything. It was only 1 year old though so I'd expect it to grow somewhat. Is it planted or in a pot? If it's in a pot, you need a really big pot to grow a larger plant.

Wikipedia: The plant grows best in soils with a pH as low as 4.5 to 5.8, in an environment free from frost and in partial shade with high humidity. It is tolerant of drought, full sunshine and slopes. The plants first bear fruit after growing for approximately 3–4 years, and produce two crops per year, after the end of the rainy season. This evergreen plant produces small, red berries, while white flowers are produced for many months of the year.

Don't know your situation but googling around seems to provide more information.

I have read all the information out there but I was hoping to find someone here with actual experience and was willing to help a brotha out.

But drat 3-4 years? The lady I bought mine from said hers fruited in about 2, but those were fruiting were about 200 bucks more expensive :( well looks like I have to keep waiting now.


Or does anyone know how to speed up the process? The lady isn't giving up the details on what she did... probably grafted them together, bitch.

a forbidden love fucked around with this message at 01:53 on Nov 7, 2015

Mr. Soop
Feb 18, 2011

Bonsai Guy

a forbidden love posted:

I now have it in a pot (50% perlite 50% peat moss) getting direct sunlight in the evenings and indirect sunlight during the day in my back porch. I had it inside with a bag covering the pot to help with humidity but admittedly I had/have no idea if I was helping or hurting.

Bought it when it was about a year old (10 inches) and have had it for two (about 18 inches now). I transferred it to a bigger pot at 2 years because it was getting too big for the little pot it was in. I bought a way bigger pot because I didn't want to keep transferring pots every couple of years. I haven't seen it flower at all since I've had it. The lady was very adamant that it was a "girl" tree. I keep the acidity levels at around 4.5 thanks to my handy soil testing kit.


I have read all the information out there but I was hoping to find someone here with actual experience and was willing to help a brotha out.

But drat 3-4 years? The lady I bought mine from said hers fruited in about 2, but those were fruiting were about 200 bucks more expensive :( well looks like I have to keep waiting now.


Or does anyone know how to speed up the process? The lady isn't giving up the details on what she did... probably grafted them together, bitch.

How often do you water it and how much light does it get?

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
This one is a fungus, not a plant, but it's still cool looking. Devil's Fingers!

a forbidden love
Apr 28, 2005

"It was never meant to beep boop be"

Mr. Soop posted:

How often do you water it and how much light does it get?

I give it about 24 ounces of water every three days. It gets the evening sun directly for about 2.5 to 3 hours a day and about 8 hours of total light.

a forbidden love fucked around with this message at 01:15 on Nov 14, 2015

Gridlocked
Aug 2, 2014

MR. STUPID MORON
WITH AN UGLY FACE
AND A BIG BUTT
AND HIS BUTT SMELLS
AND HE LIKES TO KISS
HIS OWN BUTT
by Roger Hargreaves
Hey gardening Goons, if this isn't the right thread for this issue please direct me to the one that is because I can't find poo poo.

It took me ages to find this thread and I hope I can get some help here. In the last year I have taken up gardening roses as a hobby. When my family re-did our front lawn my father added a planter large garden bed that he populated with 9 different rose bushes and abandoned after a few weeks. I some how ended up stepping in and taking them over as my own, and I must say under my very amateur hand they flourished somewhat; with the help of a friend I learnt about correct watering and pruning techniques as well as treatments for common diseases such as Black Spot. Previously my roses were plagued with Black Spot but over the last few months I have managed to beat it back into near non-existence, with only a few minor cases a day that I remove and spray for once a week with a home made fungicide (baking powder and soap in water).

However as the Summer rains have begun (I live in central Queensland, Australia where the weather is generally 30 degree days with 45-75% humidity, with sporadic storms across the season; so you know Tropical weather) my beloved roses began to develop a new issue that I am unable to diagnose.

Basically what I think is a form of fungus has taken hold on about half my plants, it presents it self as a series of black splotches on leaves that eventually grow to cover the entire leaf; there is no yellowing around the splotches as with Black Spot. The fungus also appears to spread into the stems, thorns and base of the buds. I have also noticed extensive damage to a number of my roses, with what appears to be small holes bored into outer petals that turn browny and drop off. There is also small black fecal matter from what I think is aphids on the sepal just below the petals.

Two plants are heavily infected, nearly totally covered in the black muck, and three others of a similar species are developing it now; first on their fresh growth and spreading down to older leaves/stems. I have done some googling and I am getting mixed messages on what it could be. At the moment I think it is either a form of Downy Mildew (I can't see any white on the underside of leaves though) or a form of Black and Sooty Mildew caused by the secretions of aphids. I have attempted treatment of the infections with white oil in the evenings to compact the aphids and spiders that nest on my bushes, followed by my homemade fungicide during the day; however nothing is beating it back. The fungicide causes the fungal-infected sections of leaf to turn brown and dry out, then curl up and fall off; so I think it's doing something but not much.

If anyone could help diagnose and suggest treatments I would be really grateful as I am worried that this issue will claim my plants. I have some pictures to help illustrate my problems.



These two are close ups of the leaves from one plant. They come off easily. You can see where the fungicide took partial effect.



Here is a wider shot of leaves on the plants. The black poo poo is everywhere. I will be trimming this plant down when it gets a bit cooler to try and let it have some better air flow, as with the rains it went on a growth spurt and bushed up again. As in the case of the second picture you can see that this particular rose bloomed unmolested.



This is some of the flower damage I mentioned. Not every rose has it, as in above, but most have some form; some worse then others.



Here it is spreading down the bed to other plants. It begins on the newer growth and works it way down.

big shtick energy
May 27, 2004


I have a dracena plant that's moderately sized (highest stalk is like 4 feet) but not in great condition anymore because I'm bad at plants.

It was doing well until a 1.5 week vacation about 6 months ago. Since it would have been tough to get someone in to water it, I decided to put a bunch of those water storage crystals in the plants soil, which seems to have been a mistake. It looked pretty rough when we got back from vacation, with lots of dead leaves and browned tips. It's recovered a bit since then with some new growth, but there are still a bunch of leaf tips turning brown and a couple of leaves with rusty looking spots.

I tried to remove most of the stupid crystal things from the soil, but now the soil kind of constantly looks damp even when it's dry to the touch, so it's hard to know when to water it. I'm guessing I should re-pot it with some new good soil, is that the best idea? It's sits right next to a window with eastern exposure in a room that's usually 25-30C, and I try not to over water it although I'm sure I have in the past.

kedo
Nov 27, 2007

Gridlocked posted:

Rose problems.

Not a rose expert, but a lot of those pictures sure look similar to some photos I'm finding for black spot.

Otherwise it also sounds like it could be Botrytis Blight based on your description. Either way, like the most effective treatment seems to be pruning.

Nettle Soup
Jan 30, 2010

Oh, and Jones was there too.

The roses in my back garden have that, but some of them are probably over 50 years old and it hasn't killed them yet, doesn't seem to be a huge deal. If it is blackspot, I reckon the flower damage is from something else.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

DuckConference posted:

I have a dracena plant that's moderately sized (highest stalk is like 4 feet) but not in great condition anymore because I'm bad at plants.

It was doing well until a 1.5 week vacation about 6 months ago. Since it would have been tough to get someone in to water it, I decided to put a bunch of those water storage crystals in the plants soil, which seems to have been a mistake. It looked pretty rough when we got back from vacation, with lots of dead leaves and browned tips. It's recovered a bit since then with some new growth, but there are still a bunch of leaf tips turning brown and a couple of leaves with rusty looking spots.

I tried to remove most of the stupid crystal things from the soil, but now the soil kind of constantly looks damp even when it's dry to the touch, so it's hard to know when to water it. I'm guessing I should re-pot it with some new good soil, is that the best idea? It's sits right next to a window with eastern exposure in a room that's usually 25-30C, and I try not to over water it although I'm sure I have in the past.

Did you mix the crystals in, or just leave them on the surface?

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big shtick energy
May 27, 2004


kid sinister posted:

Did you mix the crystals in, or just leave them on the surface?

I made a few deep holes in the soil and put the crystals in, I took most of them out of the holes but it seems like they dissolved and spread somehow

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