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Does acetylene go bad? I've got O and A tanks sitting in the garage and thinking back, I'm pretty sure I filled them up around... nine years ago.
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Sep 25, 2015 21:58
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Pompous Rhombus posted:Not a TAFE exactly, it's an adult education course offered through a community centre. Cool, all I found around here when I looked was industry training that seemed expensive and excessive.
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Sep 26, 2015 00:30
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Pompous Rhombus posted:Thanks for that writeup! I should have mentioned, cost is a significant factor at the moment and I'm currently carless, so transporting gas safely is a bit of a logistical problem. The autobody stuff would likely be a couple of years down the road, so I think I'll go with the arc welding class. Just to be sure, that'd be the sort of thing I'd want for motorcycle stuff (fabricating a luggage rack, bash plate, etc) or working with a metal-framed trailer? You can move inert gas bottles with a pedal or motor bike in a backpack no problem. The have little ones that are under fifteen/twenty kilos. Don't do that with o or a though. I do most of my work with an arc welder like Ambrose said. I have a tig now, but I hardly use it because my garage work bench is covered in parts constantly. Arc is a fine place to start learning. I started with o/a because I wanted to go through all the processes in night school except mig, and that was the slowest. But you don't need it to learn the rest. My arc machine is a beater. Weld in the mud, snow, freezing cold, whatever man, it's fine. I stopped caring about the duty cycle even, I've run beads on 3/8ths plate for a good hour at 120, 115 amps. Fucker took it all, it doesn't owe me a thing. I can do sheet, but I have to be super careful, and it's not good at it.
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Sep 26, 2015 08:26
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The thing about smaller bottles is that they'll run out pretty quickly (and probably when it is least convenient for it to do so). My local welding supply place has pretty reasonable delivery charges, so delivery may be worth looking into instead of transporting it yourself. I sold my tig welder months ago but still haven't gotten around to returning my rented cylinder, gently caress.
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Sep 26, 2015 21:43
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Brekelefuw posted:The tap size I need to make is not a standard size. 19.1mm x 0.7 Is there any reason you can't just make them out of high speed steel? It should be simpler and cheaper, and any tap and die I've ever used has been HSS. Especially if you're only using it with something soft like brass. Also, out of curiosity, did that makers mark punch thing I made for you a while ago work out for you at all?
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Sep 26, 2015 23:48
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I thought hss would be harder than o1 to cut. It was only $7 per foot of 3/4" . Those punches work amazingly. I have been stamping nickel silver with them with no issues.
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Sep 27, 2015 13:49
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Brekelefuw posted:I thought hss would be harder than o1 to cut. It was only $7 per foot of 3/4" . I suppose it would be harder to cut, but you wouldn't have to harden it. I honestly have never machined it myself. Also, good to know about the punches!
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Sep 27, 2015 19:27
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Guys, maybe one of you can help me out. I'm looking for a set of specially shaped toothing irons, and also the same forms as cabinet scrapers. One of you with access to a cnc or something like that could make some for me, I'd pay good monies. We'll talk about the specifics if you're interested. They'd look like the convex/concave scraper like in the link. https://www.dictum.com/de/werkzeuge...ernumber=703536
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Sep 29, 2015 13:50
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Are those flat? (Mostly 2d) It's hard to tell, the site is slow as balls on my phone.
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Sep 29, 2015 15:23
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Sry for the bad pic, battery is almost gone. This is how they look. If you look at this:  I'd need "s" = 40mm and "h"=2mm, one version convex & concave like in the link in my previous post, the other toothed. Can't tell yet how many teeth per cm and how deep. Need to fetch the manual. The steel should have between 50-55 HRC, 1mm thick. If you have problems finding that stuff, I'll get some good cabinet scrapers and we can work with that. Softer isn't good. Working horn dulls it really quick.
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Sep 29, 2015 16:09
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JaucheCharly posted:Sry for the bad pic, battery is almost gone. This is how they look. That looks like it could be suitable to either waterjet or wire edm, depending on your tolerances. That's what we do over here where I work. If you want you can shoot me a PM or an email at wdevine07@hotmail.com with more detailed info Edit: Though cheaper than the $30 or whatever on that website isn't going to happen. A Proper Uppercut fucked around with this message at 18:04 on Sep 29, 2015 |
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Sep 29, 2015 18:01
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Ok, great. It doesn't need to be super precise. 10 teeth per inch, 2mm deep. What sum can I expect per piece? If the results are good, I know a group of people who will want some.
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Sep 29, 2015 18:40
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JaucheCharly posted:Ok, great. It doesn't need to be super precise. 10 teeth per inch, 2mm deep. What sum can I expect per piece? If the results are good, I know a group of people who will want some. When you say teeth, do you mean straight teeth like a gear, or pointy? My only worry with the waterjet would be the teeth are gonna come out like crap.
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Sep 29, 2015 18:53
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Pointy. Like this, but just a single piece with both. If it's alot cheaper, then 2 separate pieces. 
Power Khan fucked around with this message at 19:06 on Sep 29, 2015 |
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Sep 29, 2015 18:59
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JaucheCharly posted:Pointy. Like this, but just a single piece with both. If it's alot cheaper, then 2 separate pieces. Might it not be easier to file the teeth in a blank and then torch harden the cutting surfaces? I'd think that might be easier than trying to get a clean cut in one go on non-tooled CNC, but that's just my £0.0s.2d after a little thought.
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Oct 1, 2015 10:06
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The Steel Yard, the school where I learned blacksmithing, is having a Halloween iron pour where the mix pyrotechnics and molten metal for a good party. I volunteered to help out with the fabrication, and I built this over the past three nights. It's huge, weighs a ton, and the legs are so springy that after moving it, it bobs and sways in a rather unsettling fashion for a few minutes. The curved sections were forged by hand. I took some 5" wide metal stock and cut triangles, then used a swage block to hammer the curves in.  Cast iron brake valve thingie I found in a scrap heap. I think it'll make a good face.  The side fangs are hand forged, too. I have very little welding experience, and I think I did alright. The propane tank was empty and filled partially with water before welding.  I've never done a metal sculpture of any kind before, but I knew that a good silhouette would be important. Look at that shadow; I think I accomplished that goal.    The propane tank adds a lot. It gives height, and some curves that look more organic. In addition, it shows where this monster came from. 
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Oct 3, 2015 23:20
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That spider is awesome, and now I want one for my yard. Time to go scrounging for scrap.
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Oct 4, 2015 02:45
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I've got an electric chainsaw on order and I learned like 5 minutes ago that I need to update my PPE. Due to the differences in torque relative to 50cc-ish 2 strokes, electric chainsaws do not stop going if they eat up chainsaw chaps (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E0ejn7wB9vM). So I've got an idea where I sew some pockets on the fronts of my jeans and put 1/8" steel plate in the pockets. This leads me to some questions: 1. Where do you get 1/8" thick steel for cheap? 2. Is 1/8" cheap steel probably enough to stop a chainsaw? (Assume I am not actually trying to cut off my own leg.) 3. Will this make my pants too heavy or otherwise impractical? edit: I want to see you fill that propane tank, put a jet engine on that spider, and see if you can't make it skitter around. DreadLlama fucked around with this message at 03:01 on Oct 4, 2015 |
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Oct 4, 2015 02:56
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1. Steel supply house/fabrication shop 2. Yes 3. Yes Also, steel on just the front isn't really enough. Chaps rotate on your leg when the saw grabs them. If you had steel plate on your leg, the saw can still grab the edge of the plate and yank the pocket off and/or wrap into your leg, conveniently guiding it to all the tasty blood in your inner thigh. I'd still just wear chaps. Chaps will stop a 9hp monster saw at wide open throttle, they will sure as poo poo slow down the chain on your average homeowner electric saw. e: and if you remain worried, get good 10 ply chaps. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 03:12 on Oct 4, 2015 |
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Oct 4, 2015 03:10
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poo poo, you aren't kidding. I can get 12 feet of 2 1/2" angle iron for less than $50. Metal isn't like lumber where you'll pay a lot more for one 16' than you will two 8's is it? edit: Maybe I could get some steel plate and heat it up real hot then bash it with a hammer against a log so it gets round. I'm going to do blacksmithing! Please everyone post pictures of your greaves / armored pants so I can copy them. DreadLlama fucked around with this message at 05:22 on Oct 4, 2015 |
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Oct 4, 2015 05:18
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Hypnolobster posted:1. Steel supply house/fabrication shop No, the whole point of the chaps is that the fibers clog up the drive and slow everything down. The torque curve on gas motors drops sharply with even a small decrease in RPM, and so they stall out almost instantly. Electrics don't have that issue, the fibers aren't enough to stop the chain if the torque doesn't drop off, and a chain moving at half speed will still gently caress up your leg pretty bad. That said metal pants will be heavy as poo poo, although you probably don't need 1/8". Thinner should work just as well, and if it's curved around enough it should mitigate the chain grabbing it and ripping it off. Bonus you won't have to worry about heating it to bend it.
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Oct 4, 2015 06:47
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I can't wait to see this reverse Ned Kelly.
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Oct 4, 2015 14:17
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I'm finally working on those copper flasks. Decided to start with round ones- simpler to make the dies and to form. Cut myself some Masonite dies-  This is for a 4-inch flask clamshell half. The actual metal goes under the top layer of hardboard and gets pushed into it with punches. I cut more die layers than I want, so I can remove or add components to change the finished flask dimensions- for example, I can add a board to give an extra half-inch of depth and another ~two ounces of volume, or I can change the depth of the neck cutout (the lower sheets don't have the neck cutout and are just round holes) so that the neck is offset from the centerline.  here's the first test piece hammered into in the die...  front die plate removed  finished die half. very clean and crisp for maybe 10-15 minutes' actual hammering. I'll knock another half out and give hot-tinning a whirl. I need to figure out the mouth/spout part. Right now I'm slightly oversizing the neck so that two halves fitted together will accept a 1/2" copper pipe insert I'll solder in place- if I don't work out some sort of seamless even and round nozzle I doubt I'll be able to get an acceptable seal with a cork. In addition, as it stands this way of doing them is super wasteful because of the huge unused flange it leaves behind, but I don't know how much I can really improve on that. At least this way I can cut strips connecting to the edges to roll up and use as strap/chain bails so they can be worn like a wineskin. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 01:47 on Oct 5, 2015 |
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Oct 5, 2015 01:41
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Ambrose Burnside posted:I'm finally working on those copper flasks. Decided to start with round ones- simpler to make the dies and to form. For the stopper, could you solder a brass rod through a drilled hole through the diameter of the neck, leaving a lug on each side to engage a bayonet type cap with a cork or soft leather gasket at the top? I'm pretty sure I've seen that somewhere.
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Oct 5, 2015 03:30
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I thought of something like that. The problem is that they'd be very fiddly and time-consuming to do. Old-fashioned corks aren't -perfect-, but they'll let me avoid spending as much time on the cap as I do on the entire rest of the flask. Because there'll be an intact flange running at least part-way up either side of the neck, I can drill holes for a cork retainer pretty easily. A short length of chain run through an eyelet screwed into the cork, or a swinging bar that can only sit on top of the cork when it's fully seated in the neck, something mechanically simple and fast that still makes it reliable and usable.
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Oct 5, 2015 03:40
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Those are looking great. How durable is the masonite; are you going to be able to pump out a good number of these? Because if so I might want to commission a number. I think the little piece of flared pipe soldered in as the sealing surface for the neck is the most sane and least time consuming solution.
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Oct 5, 2015 15:50
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EKDS5k posted:No, the whole point of the chaps is that the fibers clog up the drive and slow everything down. The torque curve on gas motors drops sharply with even a small decrease in RPM, and so they stall out almost instantly. Electrics don't have that issue, the fibers aren't enough to stop the chain if the torque doesn't drop off, and a chain moving at half speed will still gently caress up your leg pretty bad. It might be more efficient to start with a thinner guage and work my way upward. Therefore: How about popcans smashed flat and then bent to wrap around my thighs/shins, and attached to a pair or Levis via double-sided tape. Sufficient? LookieLoo posted:I can't wait to see this reverse Ned Kelly. Holy poo poo that guy's awesome . I would literally poo poo my pants put in his situation. He's pants-shittingly awesome. But to have the same effect you'd probably have to be able to stop a 50cal. I don't even want to think about how much a suit like that would weigh.
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Oct 5, 2015 21:34
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DreadLlama posted:It might be more efficient to start with a thinner guage and work my way upward. Therefore: How about popcans smashed flat and then bent to wrap around my thighs/shins, and attached to a pair or Levis via double-sided tape. Sufficient? Well see when I suggested thinner, I kind of thought you might go with, say 1/16", and then test it by strapping it to a log and seeing if a chainsaw will cut through it. Also I recommend using someone else's chainsaw for this test.
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Oct 6, 2015 05:32
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This is why you never, ever lend tools.
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Oct 6, 2015 05:58
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Jesus christ don't try to make your own PPE via guesswork. They sell millions of electric chainsaws, someone must have a reccomended protection guide somewhere.
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Oct 6, 2015 06:32
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Yeah, just loving buy the right ppe. It's still probably thick leathers even with an electric saw b/c it's not there to keep you 100% safe, just give you a little time to get your hand off the throttle and poo poo all in your pants. Also don't make cuts that put your body in the way if something grabs or slips. Safety first!
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Oct 6, 2015 06:39
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DreadLlama posted:It might be more efficient to start with a thinner guage and work my way upward. Therefore: How about popcans smashed flat and then bent to wrap around my thighs/shins, and attached to a pair or Levis via double-sided tape. Sufficient? 
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Oct 6, 2015 14:31
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ReelBigLizard posted:Those are looking great. How durable is the masonite; are you going to be able to pump out a good number of these? Because if so I might want to commission a number. There's no visible wear on the inside of the yet, although I've only done one plate. Masonite dies are usually described as being good for "dozens" of items, but this is a relatively deep and aggressive forming operation for a wooden die so I'll have to see. Again, one of the cool things about these stacked dies in that, once the faceplate is badly worn, i just swap it for a plate lower in the stack/turn it over and extend the die's life by however long. Worst comes to worst, for future dies I include a 1/16"-1/8"ish brass or aluminium face plate in the stack so the part that gets almost all the wear- the crisp die edges- holds up longer.
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Oct 6, 2015 14:53
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It IS dread clampett.
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Oct 6, 2015 15:24
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Ambrose Burnside posted:There's no visible wear on the inside of the yet, although I've only done one plate. Masonite dies are usually described as being good for "dozens" of items, but this is a relatively deep and aggressive forming operation for a wooden die so I'll have to see. Again, one of the cool things about these stacked dies in that, once the faceplate is badly worn, i just swap it for a plate lower in the stack/turn it over and extend the die's life by however long. Drop me an email at limeyrock @ gmail when you figure out a price, would be interested in 5-10 units at the right price.
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Oct 6, 2015 16:13
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 will do.
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Oct 6, 2015 19:18
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Pop cans are well known for their chainsaw resistance. No wait, it's mountains. Mountains are known for their chainsaw resistance.
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Oct 6, 2015 19:25
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Cakefool posted:Pop cans are well known for their chainsaw resistance. I have a horrible feeling his hunt for chainsaw resistant gear is related to the madness he posted in TFR not too far back. That got adequately summed up by one of the TFR superstars as 'medieval chainsaw felonies'
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Oct 6, 2015 19:48
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oh man
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Oct 6, 2015 21:56
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You ever think this is a cover? Like he's planning on pissing off someone who would be using a chainsaw and needs a way to protect himself? That said, I think 16 GA is about as heavy as you need to go. I'd flare the top/bottom so your attacker's chainsaw doesn't slide into unprotected areas.
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Oct 7, 2015 02:03
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