|
I shamefully nicked my jointer plane's iron and have spent the last two hours slowly sanding it back into shape. Don't live my life, don't make the choices I my made.
|
#
?
Oct 6, 2015 20:04
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 31, 2024 05:02 |
|
|
Free Market Mambo posted:I shamefully nicked my jointer plane's iron and have spent the last two hours slowly sanding it back into shape. Don't live my life, don't make the choices I my made. How did you nick it? Stone embedded in the wood that you didn't notice?
|
|
#
?
Oct 6, 2015 20:28
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:How did you nick it? Stone embedded in the wood that you didn't notice? Worse, I had set the jointer down on its side in my workbench's tool/shavings tray, and while traversing a knotty board with my jack plane I slammed it into the exposed blade. I've almost got the nick out, but it will take a little bit more grinding. Mistakes were made.
|
|
#
?
Oct 6, 2015 21:20
|
|
|
bimmian posted:Look at analine dye, you can get really vivid colors while still allowing the grain to come through nicely. Not blue, but here is an example of a piece I saw earlier this year that highlights the grain quite nicely- Huh, that is a quite neat effect. I will show this to my wife...
|
|
#
?
Oct 6, 2015 23:36
|
|
|
MrPete posted:Dyami over at the Penultimate Woodshop finished a chair in blue using transtint dye. You might get some tips from his writeup That looks amazing and the fact it drops into shellac is a bonus for being a protecting layer. Never heard of arm r seal but it seems any generic coating, or even just a clear shellac will work very well.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2015 00:23
|
|
|
Free Market Mambo posted:Worse, I had set the jointer down on its side in my workbench's tool/shavings tray, and while traversing a knotty board with my jack plane I slammed it into the exposed blade. I've almost got the nick out, but it will take a little bit more grinding. +1 for Paul Sellers leaving planes upright while they rest on the bench I guess.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2015 00:25
|
|
|
Squibbles posted:+1 for Paul Sellers leaving planes upright while they rest on the bench I guess. The bench is softer than the blade. Sucks balls regrinding one.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2015 02:48
|
|
|
ImplicitAssembler posted:Huh, that is a quite neat effect. I will show this to my wife... Another one, it was quite vivid- 
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2015 03:21
|
|
|
Free Market Mambo posted:I shamefully nicked my jointer plane's iron and have spent the last two hours slowly sanding it back into shape. Don't live my life, don't make the choices I my made. I've learned the hard way, best to bite the bullet and grind the nick out then regrind the edge; rather than trying to grind the edge until the nick is gone.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2015 04:49
|
|
|
I'm going to be building a small belt sander for sharpening and grinding metal, bought the Bellevue woodshop plans a while ago. Looks like a wooden harbor freight 1x30 strip sander, but uses 1x36 belts (cut a 4x36 belt into 4 pieces). I am thinking it'll be good for regrinding an edge accurately, you just need to set it on it's side on the table at the right angle, which you can mark with a bevel gauge and pen. Keeping it sideways also means you don't need a super wide belt. I dunno if there are any downsides to doing it like that instead of straight on, but I've seen professionals sharpen their sideways. I have seen real fine belts up to 1200 grit and even polishing belts and leather belts you could impregnate with polishing paste. I am planning to make this machine soley for chisel and hand plane sharpening. I dunno if it'd work for knife sharpening though, maybe that's a job for a 2x72 grinder. Not sure what speeds are optimal for grinding and honing metal, might even be different depending on belt type, so I'll be making it with a step pulley system to change speeds.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2015 06:46
|
|
|
Throw some radiance rouge on a moving leather belt and become the stropgod.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2015 10:55
|
|
|
Hey dudes. Looking for advice on cutting plywood. It's for a smallish project required long straight cuts. The best way to do this is with a table saw. The second best is probably a hand-held circular saw. I'm looking for something safer; jigsaw? Alternatives? What's the best way to get a straight cut using one?
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2015 12:08
|
|
|
I don't see anything particularly unsafe about a handheld circular saw in this case, it's one of the best tools for the job, just use a straight edge and a saw with a riving knife for extra safety. Or a track saw.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2015 12:16
|
|
|
I did all my long plywood cuts on the driveway with a handheld circular saw, 4 2x2s underneath (2 each side of the cut) and one clamped on top as a guide. 2 minutes setup, 10 second cut, quite safe. E: I made my first jig yesterday to drill holes near the end of 2x2s. I have 32 to do and I'm quite pleased with myself of thinking of doing a jig. cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 13:57 on Oct 7, 2015 |
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2015 13:43
|
|
|
Dominoes posted:Hey dudes. Looking for advice on cutting plywood. It's for a smallish project required long straight cuts. The best way to do this is with a table saw. The second best is probably a hand-held circular saw. Have the lumberyard cut things to size on their huge panel saw. That way you can stay well away from the saw. Other than that a circular saw with a plywood "track" is perfectly safe and will make dead straight cuts. Jigsaws aren't any more or less dangerous than a circular saw. Just don't be an idiot, wear appropriate PPE and use common sense.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2015 14:27
|
|
|
Thirding the suggestion to use a circular saw. Honestly unless you have a panel truck or whatever it's called for your table saw, I'd have trouble seeing a table saw being safer than a circular saw for cutting a full-size 4'x8' sheet, just because moving the sheet through the saw would be so awkward.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2015 14:45
|
|
|
Okay this took me a lot longer that I imagined because of it being too hot for stripper to work and for me to spend hours and hours outside. But it is almost done. I'm just waiting for it to dry so I can wax and polish it. Also I need to make and attach the wine glass hangers underneath with some leftover black walnut I have. Behold... The piano converted to bar. The raised area in the middle with the cut out is where the wine fridge slides in.  It's not even close to perfect, but I had a great time doing it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2015 22:35
|
|
|
That looks pretty cool, my wife thinks it'd make a pretty good craft table.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2015 22:49
|
|
|
Errant Gin Monks posted:too hot for stripper to work. Get her a fan. (or him, I don't judge)
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2015 02:29
|
|
|
One Legged Ninja posted:Get her a fan. (or him, I don't judge) Yeah I'm too cheap. Also it's done and in.  I'm happy.
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2015 19:33
|
|
|
Errant Gin Monks posted:Yeah I'm too cheap. I love it. I have a friend that would die to have it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2015 20:00
|
|
|
Errant Gin Monks posted:Yeah I'm too cheap. That's really cool, certainly a unique piece.
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2015 20:04
|
|
|
Desk is done. The finish has some streaks in it, but it's good enough for me. I would have sprayed it if I had to do it over, really hard to wipe on finish to such a large piece.
Google Butt fucked around with this message at 03:15 on Oct 9, 2015 |
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2015 03:12
|
|
|
Errant Gin Monks posted:Yeah I'm too cheap. Excellent work.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2015 03:13
|
|
|
Thanks guys. It was a ton of fun. Oddly I already have people offering to pay me to make them one. I think the next one I start will have a smaller wine fridge and be lit with LEDs with a single level bar top. Time to invest in a finishing nail gun.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2015 03:25
|
|
|
Errant Gin Monks posted:Thanks guys. It was a ton of fun. Oddly I already have people offering to pay me to make them one. I think the next one I start will have a smaller wine fridge and be lit with LEDs with a single level bar top. Which wine fridge is in the image? We bought our house two years ago, and it came with a wine fridge that's similar in size, but it died on us during the heat of this summer and I'm on the hunt for a replacement. Everywhere I look the wine fridges that are under $500 and designed for installation under cabinets have terrible reviews and all seem to die within the first 2-3 years of life. Which seems absurd since many full size refrigerators last 20+ years.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2015 04:18
|
|
|
Falco posted:Which wine fridge is in the image? We bought our house two years ago, and it came with a wine fridge that's similar in size, but it died on us during the heat of this summer and I'm on the hunt for a replacement. Everywhere I look the wine fridges that are under $500 and designed for installation under cabinets have terrible reviews and all seem to die within the first 2-3 years of life. Which seems absurd since many full size refrigerators last 20+ years. It's a Danby 38 bottle dual zone. Home Depot has them for 350ish. Just be warned you will be spending money replacing the fans on it. I have already done it and it's only 4 years old. Easy to fix though. The reason they die is the fan. It's a peltier unit as a thermoelectric cooler, a bigger version of an active CPU cooler. Letting the fan go past when it starts buzzing burns then out. The fans run a lot and the bearings wear out quickly since they are glorified PC fans. In fact next time I will probably just replace it with a high end case fan. They are cheaper. Errant Gin Monks fucked around with this message at 05:40 on Oct 9, 2015 |
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2015 05:38
|
|
|
Getting ot sorry, but you could look at diying it with a cheap bar fridge and a thermostat/relay setup to control the temperature to your liking. I've seen kits at the local electronics shop for exactly this purpose but depending on how much you're into electronics you could diy the whole thing pretty easy. A normal compressor type fridge sounds more reliable than some gimcrack peltier setup to me.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2015 11:11
|
|
|
Granite Octopus posted:Getting ot sorry, but you could look at diying it with a cheap bar fridge and a thermostat/relay setup to control the temperature to your liking. I've seen kits at the local electronics shop for exactly this purpose but depending on how much you're into electronics you could diy the whole thing pretty easy. A normal compressor type fridge sounds more reliable than some gimcrack peltier setup to me. Peltier devices at that size are a bit of a pain and it will probably die in 2 to 3 years, but the reason wine fridges all run Peltier coolers is because they don't create vibrations like a compressor does that are supposed to be bad for the wine.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2015 04:04
|
|
|
Errant Gin Monks posted:It's a Danby 38 bottle dual zone. Home Depot has them for 350ish. Just be warned you will be spending money replacing the fans on it. I have already done it and it's only 4 years old. Easy to fix though. The junk collector posted:Peltier devices at that size are a bit of a pain and it will probably die in 2 to 3 years, but the reason wine fridges all run Peltier coolers is because they don't create vibrations like a compressor does that are supposed to be bad for the wine. Good to know thank you guys. Ours was a Vinotemp 34 bottle that doesn't have a fan to my knowledge. It looks like a typical mini fridge in the back with the small compressor and no fan. I'm sure the hot summer with no air conditioning in our house didn't help matters either. I don't mind replacing a fan every now and then, I just hate diagnosing a fridge that just quits cooling. Online searches haven't been very fruitful, so it may just be a replacement at this point. I'll start looking into the Danby.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2015 05:06
|
|
|
tater_salad posted:So apparently my late grandfather in law had one of these in the basement / workshop. And now it's on the way to my garage workshop. Holy poo poo are the blades for this a mess, no clue what he ever planed down with this. It's like he was planing concrete with rebar. I'm going to have to order some new knives from Amazon before this sees any use.
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2015 16:08
|
|
|
tater_salad posted:Holy poo poo are the blades for this a mess, no clue what he ever planed down with this. It's like he was planing concrete with rebar. Are they two sided? Maybe you can just spin them around.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2015 00:08
|
|
|
I know that there are 2 sided blades I didn't feel like digging around for service instructions. I'll probably check this week.. for $20 a pair it's not awful to have to buy a new set.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2015 01:14
|
|
|
You've got to take them off to change them you may as well do so before you buy new ones. I made shelves!  8' wide x 2' deep, I'll be adding the middle support shortly, I just hoped I could get away without it. Then I ignored the advice I'd asked for and built a workbench   8' x 28", 36" tall It's not the craftsmanship demonstrated in this thread but it gives me somewhere to work and learn to use the tools I do have.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2015 07:37
|
|
|
Just picked up a Juuma low-angle block plane, feels so good. I made a gossamer pine shaving and tried to eat it. Still not edible.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2015 13:10
|
|
|
tater_salad posted:So apparently my late grandfather in law had one of these in the basement / workshop. And now it's on the way to my garage workshop. Mr. Mambold posted:I've got that one. Gotten plenty of mileage for what it set me back. He took the infeed table off, lotta guys do that. I just picked up one of these from Craigslist real cheap. I ran some boards through and it works great, just a few nicks in the blades (ordered new blades anyway). The craigslister didn't have either infeed or outfeed tables and I can't find where to buy them. Does anyone sell them as parts, or should I just build some feed tables?
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2015 17:30
|
|
|
^^ related.. I don't see any onboard storage of the knife setting jig I guess I'm buying one of those unless I'm missing it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2015 17:36
|
|
|
RadioPassive posted:I just picked up one of these from Craigslist real cheap. I ran some boards through and it works great, just a few nicks in the blades (ordered new blades anyway). The reason guys take them off is they have cheap bolts that don't really secure, and you are more apt to get snipes, which defeats the whole pirpose. Also they're made of cheap stamped metal so building your own might be preferable.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2015 18:33
|
|
|
Mr. Mambold posted:The reason guys take them off is they have cheap bolts that don't really secure, and you are more apt to get snipes, which defeats the whole pirpose. Also they're made of cheap stamped metal so building your own might be preferable. I've seen a few people build a cart for these with integrated infeed/outfeed tables. You tram them by shimming the planner up/down on the feet. It just lifts out the top, so it's still semi-portable. My Dewalt hasn't had a issue, otherwise I would build a similar setup for it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2015 00:11
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 31, 2024 05:02 |
|
|
RadioPassive posted:or should I just build some feed tables? Best way: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/71310 http://www.finehomebuilding.com/pdf/011183072.pdf Cakefool posted:8' wide x 2' deep, I'll be adding the middle support shortly, I just hoped I could get away without it. http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2015 02:52
|
|