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Yeah, but I wouldn't have the time to manage a puppy like that.
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Sep 23, 2015 21:18
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Triangulum posted:GSDs are loving maniacs as puppies. They're pretty biddable but holy god are they a tornado of teeth and destruction. You're probably gonna have your hands full with that little bastard  luckily we always had him playing with his littermate who my brother and sister in law adopted, so they usually passed outa life less posted:That's an admirable goal. I have deep respect for people who never need to put a leash on their dog (save to follow the law). I'd say that I'm no slouch in training my dog, but she's 6 years old and still not 100% trustworthy off leash. And she's a very handler-focused breed who listens very well. I'll walk with her off leash down roads in my neighbourhood, but on busier streets, it's a no-go due to the risk of traffic, discarded food, etc. Keep working towards your goal, but understand that it's difficult, and may never come. It will depend on your dog's personality and your ability as a handler, and it will likely take a while. Thanks! He's honestly pretty chill now, but he does occasionally just go berserk
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Sep 23, 2015 21:51
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Tusen Takk posted:or right after pooping he'll dart off and jerk me a few feet before I'm able to put on the brakes and make him sit. It's the poop ghosts. Mine go darting halfway across the yard after a poop.
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Sep 24, 2015 00:21
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This may be a bit too large scale for the training thread, but it may fit. We adopted a 6 year-old shih-tzu mix about a year ago. He's the sweetest dog ever, but suffers from pretty severe separation anxiety. He would sit directly in front of the door and would just pant for two straight hours. He wouldn't walk five feet away from the door to get his favorite treats or water. We're doing our best to work with him in tiny steps, making him stay in the living room while we go into other rooms, and leaving the house for, max, a few minutes at a time to slowly desensitize him. The bigger picture: In 12-18 months my wife and I would love to take a trip. My hope is that in that time we could get him to either be okay with boarding, or staying with a family member, being alone for most of the day in an environment he's not familiar with. Am I being overly cautious or overly ambitious? Do I need to be looking for a trainer that specializes in separation issues or is it something that any good trainer should be able to help us with?
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Oct 10, 2015 05:53
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Sudden Loud Noise posted:This may be a bit too large scale for the training thread, but it may fit. I'd take him to a boarding place for a trial run just for a night and see how he does. Often boarding places are different enough environments that there's no feeling of "my people should be here but aren't!!" like if he was staying in a house.
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Oct 10, 2015 15:31
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I think I need a different resource for house-training that I've been reading... We recently adopted a 1-2 year old ???? whatever this guy is: The foster that he was with said he was housebroken, but either that was not the case or the training was entirely lost in the transition. I have yet to get this dog to eliminate outside. The first day we had him he didn't go at all. The second day we walked him a few times in the morning....nothing. About an hour after the second walk he just stopped mid-play to start peeing, I clapped loudly as per instructions and sort of sharp-yelled, while he just ignored me and kept peeing. Oh well, we'll just take him out more. About an hour later I figured we should go on another walk, and he decides to just start pooping mid-run down the hall, sort of half-squatting half-running. I picked him up and he just let out another poo poo midair. Oh well. We had him crated at night, and this morning my wife took him on a long walk first thing in the morning, nothing. Came back and he started chewing on a squeaker toy, then vomitted all over it and while she was cleaning up he peed right behind her. Welp. He was crated for a couple hours before I got home, so I figured he would probably need to use the bathroom, and I could wait him out this time. I came home, immediately took him on a walk. We walked for two hours. I spent some time moving, some time standing/sitting around in grassy areas with nothing going on, some time with him off-lease in a fenced-in grassy area, no luck. I sat down on a bench near a grassy area right outside of my apartment and waited for another hour. I gave up and came inside, he walked around for a bit looking at me, then took a small drink of water, then starting peeing on the floor. This time I decided to try the alternate advise: picking them up. This was a bad plan. This just caused the pee to continue flying everywhere for a solid 10-15 seconds. I took him outside anyway, and we stood around for 15 minutes in the grass with him staring at me like I was an idiot. Which I probably am. I need some ideas or resources for trying to (re?-)housetrain an adult dog who refuses to go outside and can apparently hold it indefinitely as long as he's in a crate or outside. The best I can come up with is having those puppy pee pads around and when he starts to pee inside quickly put him on one, and then moving it outside so maybe he'll get the idea it is okay to poop or pee outside? I can carry around a whole ziploc full of hotdog but if he doesn't ever pee outside I can't reward him for it. edit: I think first I'm going to try walking him, then keeping him tethered to me while inside, waiting 10-15 minutes, see what happens, if nothing, go back out and repeat until pee happens. OnceIWasAnOstrich fucked around with this message at 00:41 on Nov 3, 2015 |
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Nov 3, 2015 00:24
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Have you taken him to a vet? I'd take him to the vet to rule out stuff like UTIs that would cause him to just pee suddenly wherever. If he gets a clean bill of health start from square 1 like he's a puppy. Tether him to you and don't let him unsupervised ever, take him outside a lot and throw a goddamn party when he does his business outside.
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Nov 3, 2015 00:55
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Our trainer reccomended getting a crate that was just big enough to stand up, lie down and turn around in and no bigger. We were then told to keep him in the crate for like two days with breaks out ONLY to potty outside. If he wasn't outside pooping, he was supposed to be in the crate. We ended up not needing to do this with Pax because he caught on after like a day of being crated, but I've heard that it works really well for dogs that are having issues with potty training. I think the tough part would be not giving in and letting them out of the crate unattended before they figure it out Also what the other poster said check for UTI
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Nov 3, 2015 01:01
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Also another thing: is there one place in the house where he's going more than anywhere else? If so douse that area with an enzymatic cleaner like Nature's Miracle and block off access to that area if possible. Make sure you're dousing everywhere he's had an accident with Nature's Miracle or else it'll smell like an okay place to go to him and it'll make it harder for you. I went through a sort of similar thing with one of my dogs-- adopted him as an adult and he was never potty trained as a puppy. I could NOT get him to go outside just like the problem you're having and discovered he'd found a corner of a room I never went into and used it as his personal bathroom. I blocked his access to that room and things started improving and I had him housebroken in a matter of a couple days once I took away his secret poop corner.
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Nov 3, 2015 01:15
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So far he hasn't peed in the same room twice, just wherever he managed to be, and isn't really going off to doing it, and hasn't actually manged to do it when we weren't right next to him anyway . We've been thoroughly cleaning all areas where he has, but so far that doesn't seem to be the issue. We are planning to take him to a vet for a first checkup as soon as we get all the vaccination records from the rescue, so I'll make sure to ask about UTIs, although unless he has a serious aversion to going outside I'd imagine he would probably pee sometime in the hour(s) after being let out of the crate outside before coming in and would probably go a lot more often than once or twice a day. I'm a little worried about keeping him in the crate all the time when we are there, if only because we are still in the process of crate training him and he is fine with it so far but I don't want to torment him by keeping him away from us while he's still learning to like the crate, but we are definitely not leaving him out of it unattended for a while, and will escalate the tethering.
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Nov 3, 2015 02:16
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On the topic of in-house elimination. Sterling is 99% housetrained in that he will have the occasional accident if we don't crate him at night. Otherwise he is really good at letting us know when he wants to go outside. That all goes out the window when he is visiting other houses, especially houses with carpet. We only have hardwood floors and I have to be constantly vigilant when visiting my parents house because it's like he sees carpet as an extension of grass, which is his piss terrain of choice. I can walk him around outside for ages and sometimes he'll go, sometimes he won't, but even when he does pee outside he will sometimes sneak off and pee a bit on the carpet. He most definitely does not do this kind of thing at home. Any tips for getting it through his head that the carpet is not grass? At the moment he stays tethered to me and I take him outside for regular walks but he hardly ever pees even if I know he needs to go. I would like to be able to visit my parents with him without being worried he is going to firehose it up at any given moment.
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Nov 3, 2015 08:19
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We had a lot of success using wee pads outside. Our rescue dog (around 6 months when we got her) REFUSED to pee outside no matter how many hours we spent walking/standing/encouraging but would hold it until the moment we got back indoors. The shelter had used wee pads in her crate but discouraged us from going that route since it's hard to ween them off peeing indoors if you allow it on wee pads. So we just never used wee pads inside, but would take one with us when we went out, find a little area to lay it down, and wait. If it didn't work right away we would walk a little and find a new area to put down the wee pad. She started peeing on them pretty quickly (and we would reward heavily with hot dogs and verbal encouragement) and it was a near seamless transition to take away the wee pads (kept giving her hot dog bits for a while). She also had the problem of peeing in new places even when she was housebroken in our home. After we felt comfortable that she was trained, we introduced some negative reinforcements if we caught her in the act, just saying "NO! BAD!" in a stern voice. She also HATED crates from the beginning - bad association with the shelter? - so we gave up on crate training after a week (she would pee and poop in them anyway).
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Nov 3, 2015 15:50
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Hooray, the tiny monster (I guess he's not that tiny he weighs 35 pounds) did both outside this morning and got a party nicer than my last birthday... Let's hope the momentum continues.
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Nov 3, 2015 16:00
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Tamarillo posted:On the topic of in-house elimination. Sterling is 99% housetrained in that he will have the occasional accident if we don't crate him at night. Otherwise he is really good at letting us know when he wants to go outside. Put peeing/eliminating on cue. It's a lot easier to get the 'pee here, not there' point across if you can go outside and tell them to relieve themselves.
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Nov 4, 2015 00:51
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Is there a rough age when a dog is more safe to leave home alone? I hate to crate my dog, try not to. I have a perfect common area I can leave him in. It's relatively puppy proof, some wires he can get to if he tried; going to put bitter spray on it. But I'm just scared he's too young (9mo.) to leave alone there and that at 6-8 hours he'd be eating window sills and poo poo He's relatively well-behaved and just does the usual puppy teething type stuff.
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Nov 4, 2015 03:40
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Try it in smaller periods of time (say, going out for a couple hours to run errands) and if he's consistently good then you can leave him out all day.
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Nov 4, 2015 04:00
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Yeah that's where I was going to start of course but even brief periods I'm worried about outside of the crate. Thinking about getting a webcam and going out, watching him, seeing how long before he barks, rinse/repeat reward when appropriate etc.
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Nov 4, 2015 04:02
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Can you get a baby gate and sequester him in a smaller area (safe from wires and anything dangerous)? Our dog hated crates so we would gate off our entryway for her and leave her in there with some toys - she was 6 months old when we got her.
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Nov 4, 2015 06:03
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I can for the kitchen but it's still a small-ish area. Still cupboards for him to gnaw at and after any long duration of time he'll probably try to jump the extra tall baby gate bouncing off until it falls over
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Nov 4, 2015 06:06
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Nostalgia4Dicks posted:I can for the kitchen but it's still a small-ish area. Still cupboards for him to gnaw at and after any long duration of time he'll probably try to jump the extra tall baby gate bouncing off until it falls over Get a tall ex-pen (or two for gigantic size), carabiner the ends together so it makes a big hexagon/octagon/dodecahedron/stable blob and leave him in there.
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Nov 4, 2015 06:21
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More and more lately my dog seems to be refusing my commands until I use a loud or aggressive tone with her, which I absolutely do not like. She's a 10 month old German/Aussie Shepherd cross. For example, if I tell her to lie down, she'll just pace a bit then stare at me. She knows the command. Even when I get her to do tricks for treats she'll get very vocal when I tell her to do things, she'll make weird whining noises, not ones like she's in pain or like when she whines to go outside. It's hard to describe but it sounds like the dog equivalent to "fuuuuuuuck why are you making me do this". I know it sounds weird, but it's the best way to describe it. How do I curb this?
Ultimate Shrek Fan fucked around with this message at 04:10 on Nov 6, 2015 |
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Nov 6, 2015 04:02
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Make it fun again. Try teaching her something brand new then once you've re-established the "yay learning is fun!" relationship go back and reinforce the ones she's slipping on. Right now she's probably like "oh poo poo he's asking me to lay down I'm gonna get yelled at in a second" then gets upset then you get upset then she gets upset that you're upset so you need to break that cycle.
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Nov 6, 2015 04:34
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Aquatic Giraffe posted:Make it fun again. Try teaching her something brand new then once you've re-established the "yay learning is fun!" relationship go back and reinforce the ones she's slipping on. This makes sense, thank you.
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Nov 6, 2015 04:36
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Do folks have ideas for low-impact stuff to do with a pretty active/drive-y puppy after surgery (spay in this case)? Our days are usually training + fetch/tug/whatever in the morning, walk and play at lunch time, and then more training + a minimum of an hour (seriously) doing fetch/tug/bounding around our apartment's dog run after my wife gets home from work. Then a nap, and more training and play. Then lots of chewing (on things she's allowed to chew on). And finally sleep. Her Kong wobbler takes her all of 3-5 minutes to plow through, and she's already very obedient indoors with her leave it/recall/give. And her pain meds do literally zero for her in terms of relaxing her. We've been working on teaching her the names of toys, practicing the leave-it and give stuff even more, and finding more puzzle toys for her, but we're kinda short on ideas here, and still have another 5-7 days before we can comfortably start back into more vigorous playing with her. Here's a picture of her so she doesn't 'splode 
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Nov 11, 2015 05:52
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My husky/chow was impossible to tire out or slow down too. One thing I remember doing is having her stay in one room then hiding a toy with treats inside (like a wobbler) in another room and releasing her to find it. Then she would get the little bit that was in the toy and a reward for finding it. Reset and do it again hidden in a different spot. She liked that well enough.
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Nov 11, 2015 08:17
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Monkey Fury posted:Do folks have ideas for low-impact stuff to do with a pretty active/drive-y puppy after surgery (spay in this case)? Our days are usually training + fetch/tug/whatever in the morning, walk and play at lunch time, and then more training + a minimum of an hour (seriously) doing fetch/tug/bounding around our apartment's dog run after my wife gets home from work. Then a nap, and more training and play. Then lots of chewing (on things she's allowed to chew on). And finally sleep. Her Kong wobbler takes her all of 3-5 minutes to plow through, and she's already very obedient indoors with her leave it/recall/give. And her pain meds do literally zero for her in terms of relaxing her. We've been working on teaching her the names of toys, practicing the leave-it and give stuff even more, and finding more puzzle toys for her, but we're kinda short on ideas here, and still have another 5-7 days before we can comfortably start back into more vigorous playing with her. More tricks! Paws on objects, retrieve, backing up, going to a target, impulse control with distractions etc are all good spay recovery games.
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Nov 11, 2015 15:29
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Seconding trick training. One of my dog's simplest tricks is always a popular party trick (I taught him to boop my glass with his nose when I say "cheers!"). Every dog should have at least a small repertoire of stupid dog tricks IMO.
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Nov 11, 2015 19:37
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Yesterday was great. There was a low tide and tons of small pools of water in an area all to ourselves. Uses the water disc to throw it across back and forth and watch his happy rear end prance through. Not that I have any idea what I'm doing; but if he couldn't find it I'd try to guide him with hand signals and verbal directions. Seemed to almost work. Kind of want to put time into it akin to using a cocker to flush low brush or find game. I'm still working on the fetch. We started from scratch so it's going well I'd say. He'll fetch it and generally come back to me. But then he's a bit hesitant to give it up. He doesn't fight me per-se and I don't aggressively chase him etc like we're playing. Sometimes he'll just look at me and walk the other way which I take as his sign of being ready to go. Drop also works 25% of the time and seems to be working more so that's good. Need to really hunker down and implement treats and a proper regiment. I'm a bit torn as I want him to be relatively obedient but I also don't want him to just wallow all his emotions inside and become a characterless dog Boy he does have energy but does he poop out fast #justpuppythings http://youtu.be/tKOsMRG1qnY Like this, maybe a bit less animated. No whistle though. http://youtu.be/Tf4ettOy_Qs Welp that's all thanks for reading 
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Nov 11, 2015 23:39
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a life less posted:More tricks! Paws on objects, retrieve, backing up, going to a target, impulse control with distractions etc are all good spay recovery games. Aquatic Giraffe posted:Seconding trick training. One of my dog's simplest tricks is always a popular party trick (I taught him to boop my glass with his nose when I say "cheers!"). Every dog should have at least a small repertoire of stupid dog tricks IMO. Yeah -- she has basics like shake, high-five, and covering up objects, but more tricks makes sense (and is always cute!!). Bows/down dogs are another thing I want to work on with her, since she just started to offer them up for us. I really like the idea of that cheers trick :3 We do do it's your choice a ton, but working on backing up/moving out of the way and going to targets are also great since we live in about 700 ft^2 of apartment. Thank you~~~ Also since she really really likes to smell new things and follow them all the way to hell and back starting nose/scent games would also probably be good, huh? Monkey Fury fucked around with this message at 05:14 on Nov 12, 2015 |
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Nov 12, 2015 04:54
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How do you teach a dog to twerk
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Nov 15, 2015 06:02
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EXTREME INSERTION posted:How do you teach a dog to twerk You have to teach it to stop, then work on wiggle with it It helps if it can get low but ymmv
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Nov 15, 2015 06:43
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I just wanted to thank the thread for being a great resource. Two years ago my corgi was an escape artist who would shimmy loose of her leash and run across busy streets before I could catch her, but today she's doing great at training off-leash. Her recall is getting pretty impressive to the point I'm no longer so scared of owning a corgi pancake.
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Nov 15, 2015 23:31
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You know you've done a good job when your daycare asks to "borrow" your dog to vet other new dogs and to help train dog walkers.
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Nov 16, 2015 00:36
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Does anyone have a service/support dog in any capacity in CA and can I ask you some questions? Don't quote this post pls so I can edit it out later 
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Nov 21, 2015 20:56
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Like an emotional support animal or an actual service dog?
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Nov 22, 2015 16:56
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The former
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Nov 22, 2015 17:21
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I believe you need a note from a mental health professional to use your dog as an emotional support animal. ESAs are not granted the same rights as service animals like guide dogs and seizure detection dogs and the like, they can be legally kicked out of public places if someone complains. HOWEVER a lot of assholes like to get their pets certified as ESAs when they do not have a legitimate need for one to skirt pet rules in rental properties which means people don't take ESAs seriously. I would like to emphasize these people who claim their untrained labrador Scruffy is an ESA just so they can keep them in an apartment that does not allow pets are complete and total jackasses who make life unnecessarily hard for people who actually DO need ESAs.
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Nov 22, 2015 17:41
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Again pls don't quote any of this I'm going to edit it all out Gonna preface here that my dog is on my lease and I have to pay "pet tax" before anyone tries to sway an argument towards that. Anyways Is ESA the one that you pay $60 online and have a card shipped? Yeah I've seen the rental ESA dilemma. It does suck that being upfront about that pretty much guarantees you didn't qualify for another "reason" I assumed an ESA had the same rights as far as where they could be the other just had a fancy little vest and literally was a working dog for someone with a physical disability I have been meaning to ask for a note but don't see a problem getting one. Can only assume he's open to it. I guess my concern is that for either my name will end up on some national registry. I know it's a dumb thing to worry about but unfortunately it will still carry a stigma when applying for a job, background check, etc. He's well behaved but not formally trained. I wouldn't go to a theatre or large restaurant. Although I do have money I can put towards proper certifications/training. While he's not formally trained he does obviously comfort me. I broke down last week and he low crawled to me and rested his head in my lap which I've never seen him do before Again pls don't quote any of this I'm going to edit it all out
Nostalgia4Dogges fucked around with this message at 18:17 on Nov 22, 2015 |
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Nov 22, 2015 18:12
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The way I see it it's not that different from getting a prescription for anti-depressants and your health records don't come up on background check because holy poo poo HIPAA violations batman. The only way it'd come up on job applications is if you're applying for jobs that have mental health checks/requirements like being an airline pilot or joining the military. For most regular jobs it won't come up unless you want to take your ESA to work.
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Nov 22, 2015 20:14
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Big boy jobs like state or federal level you usually sign a release having to give them access to all that information. I don't mean it's public info per-se but it is accessible to certain people. I mean it sucks but the reality is some people will see it and scoff at it because of the stigma and blah blah -edit and I didn't read the second half of your post Nostalgia4Dogges fucked around with this message at 20:57 on Nov 22, 2015 |
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Nov 22, 2015 20:55
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