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FogHelmut posted:I did the amp before I did the speakers. It fills out the range more. I wouldn't say it necessarily improves the quality of the sound, because the source is still the head unit, but it gives the speakers a more adequate amount of power to work with. I don't know what stock is, somewhere between 14 to 20 watts. There is no line out, so you'll need to get an amp that handles speaker level input. There is a guide online somewhere to solder in line level outputs, but you need to be skilled because the connections are way tiny. I thought that alpine took speaker level? Either way, I was going to run a line out converter to the amp. Was going to split the harness then run to the amp and then back to the harness. Figured that might be easier than running all new wires.
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Oct 12, 2015 17:42
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TheFargate posted:I thought that alpine took speaker level? Either way, I was going to run a line out converter to the amp. Was going to split the harness then run to the amp and then back to the harness. Figured that might be easier than running all new wires. It does. I bought a harness from http://ae64.com/ and have it running from the speaker level.
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Oct 12, 2015 17:45
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Ah pretty sure thats where I got the idea of splitting the harness. I think he makes one.
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Oct 12, 2015 17:56
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I just got a 2015 Impreza Sport. My first car in about two years and my first new car ever. It has the rails for a rack but I'm wondering what crossbars to get. Anyone know the width of usable space on the factory cross bars? They look like they have this curvy area at the sides where things won't mount. I'd like to get two bikes on top, but some times maybe three or four. Or maybe a bike and a small cargo box. The factory bars are about half the cost of getting an aftermarket system, and the after market bars will look janky as gently caress on top of the rails even though they're wider.
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Oct 12, 2015 22:55
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Naked Bear posted:Blizzaks are my go-to for snow tires. My old ones are worn out, so I put on a new set of WS80s yesterday. Even though I hate winter, I'm always stoked to drive in snow. From last week, talking about snow tires for my 3.6R Outback... All the "Find tires for your vehicle" tools are telling me to go with 17" wheels. Is it true that you're supposed to size down for winter tires vs 3-seasons?
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Oct 12, 2015 23:19
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You don't have to, but the tires will cost less, and give you some extra sidewall for rougher roads. I use narrower tires in the winter as well. In some cases a narrower contact patch can help with traction and stability.
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Oct 12, 2015 23:34
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jamal posted:You don't have to, but the tires will cost less, and give you some extra sidewall for rougher roads. I use narrower tires in the winter as well. In some cases a narrower contact patch can help with traction and stability. Tirerack gives me this as the "recommended set" for my car. Anything look wrong with it? Pricing seems reasonable... 
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Oct 12, 2015 23:58
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Check out Costco if you have a membership, or know someone that does. I just bought a set of WS80's in 205/65R16 for $600 CAD ($460 USD) shipped, installed, and road-hazard warrantied while tire rack has them for $425 USD before shipping / road hazard. Might be worth a look.
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Oct 13, 2015 00:17
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What is Sport Edition?
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Oct 13, 2015 00:19
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Naked Bear posted:What is Sport Edition? Tire rack's house brand.
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Oct 13, 2015 00:27
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FingersMaloy posted:I just got a 2015 Impreza Sport. My first car in about two years and my first new car ever. It has the rails for a rack but I'm wondering what crossbars to get. Anyone know the width of usable space on the factory cross bars? They look like they have this curvy area at the sides where things won't mount. The factory aero bars? Subaru also has the non-aero round bars which are just rebranded Yakima. I do have a Yakima Railgrab/ round bar set for mine, which I do not leave on all the time due to wind noise. But it is easy enough to put on and off. I believe I went with this at the time because it was stronger than the Subaru aero bars. If you're talking about bikes and cargo boxes, you probably don't mind the wind noise and the MPG hit. I would spend the money for the non-Subaru aero bars if you plan on leaving the bars on all the time. The Subaru aero bars have some flex to them, arch across the top, and are only connected with a hex screw if that concerns you. If you got a round bar set, you would want to get a fairing to prevent the air from going 'wump wump wump wump wump' on your roof. This is going to add another $85 to your cost. But, you can do pretty well with used Yakima/Thule stuff from eBay or wherever. With my Yakima bars, I think it's somewhere around 38" of useable bar between the rails. With the round bars, you can do stuff like get really long bars that extend beyond your roof. Other advantages are that these bars lay flat. I've put all kinds of crap on there besides the obvious from wood to Ikea items to a water heater. It is mostly used for my snowboard, and the ski/snowboard clamp also works really well for fishing rods. You will pay a lot more for a Yakima/Thule set over the $150 Subaru bars. It could be worth it depending on your usage, and you can keep them to use on your next car. And their parts are interchangeable forever. I bought my snowboard rack two years ago on eBay new in box sealed from 1993, and it works perfectly great.
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Oct 13, 2015 00:57
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Any of y'all ever had an ej25 start stumbling and poo poo without a CEL? Sounds like it's probably front o2 sensor acting wonky but it's pretty bizarre. Feels like it's randomly leaning way the gently caress out when you try to accelerate. Sometimes minor, sometimes just dies for a second mid-pass. Hoping I can figure it out before the winter as I'll be damned if I can drive something like that safely in snow.
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Oct 13, 2015 01:49
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wilfredmerriweathr posted:Any of y'all ever had an ej25 start stumbling and poo poo without a CEL? Sounds like it's probably front o2 sensor acting wonky but it's pretty bizarre. Feels like it's randomly leaning way the gently caress out when you try to accelerate. Sometimes minor, sometimes just dies for a second mid-pass. Vacuum leak? if it is a turbo, there's a t-connection under the intercooler that loves to pop off.
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Oct 13, 2015 01:56
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Could be a vacuum leak, but non-turbo (and new plugs/wires).
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Oct 13, 2015 02:17
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Ok so I have a question for you guys. Over the weekend I went to a meet and some people put an idea in my head and it wont go away. So I recently had some stuff installed at EFI logics and a dyno tune done, my car dynod at 295hp and 358tq. Some people have told me that the torque may be pushing my luck on a stock block. Now being that Mikey tuned my car and felt comfortable leaving it there, Im not super worried. But my question is, at what point should I consider building the block? Ive read that 400hp seems to be the limit but I figured Id ask here. Its a '15 sti and a daily driver with 25k miles on the clock.
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Oct 13, 2015 11:44
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Assuming it wasn't tuned into killmode territory,and even then, it comes down to how you drive it, maintain it, and a roll of the dice. As a daily driver, just enjoy it. Consider building(or saving up for) the shortblock if/when you plan on needing more reliable power with consistency.
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Oct 13, 2015 18:02
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TheFargate posted:But my question is, at what point should I consider building the block When the stock one kerplodes. As soon as you go out of warranty, you need to put the $ for a shortblock replacement into the bank and keep it there. You don't need to actually spend it until it pops though.
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Oct 13, 2015 18:06
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Well I already started saving for one when I bought the drat thing, $50 a week goes directly into a savings that I cant easily even view the balance of. I guess Ill just hope by the time it explodes there will be enough in there!
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Oct 13, 2015 18:09
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Went to change the oil for the second time ever on my new to me 99 Forester. Guess I wasn't really thinking, didn't take off the splash shield, and got the drat front diff plug. I put nice new synthetic gear oil in there when I first got the car, it was pretty much pristine. "Hrrrrmmmm, 21mm, that seems a bit big. No worries. Oh man, that oil is way too clean for 7000 miles... gently caress" - An idiot.
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Oct 13, 2015 19:44
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Any recommendations on a head unit (cheaper is sort of better) for a 16 WRX with Apple CarPlay that still leaves me with steering wheel controls and all that jazz?
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Oct 13, 2015 21:38
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:Any recommendations on a head unit (cheaper is sort of better) for a 16 WRX with Apple CarPlay that still leaves me with steering wheel controls and all that jazz? Sure but it comes attached to an entire car that you'd probably want to trade the WRX in on. Subaru don't ICE.
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Oct 13, 2015 21:39
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I have no clue what that post means 
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Oct 13, 2015 21:42
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:Any recommendations on a head unit (cheaper is sort of better) for a 16 WRX with Apple CarPlay that still leaves me with steering wheel controls and all that jazz? http://www.crutchfield.com/car/cars...%257cFFCarPlay& Put your car make and model into crutchfields magical site. They'll tell you what you need and what to install. If you don't like their price you can just fart the part # into amazon, but I buy from crutchfield just because I like how easy their drat site is.
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Oct 13, 2015 21:42
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:I have no clue what that post means You can do it, but it's a pain in the rear end and requires a bunch of kludgey bits to integrate the wheel controls and such. Subarus are terrible at this stuff, unfortunately always have been. Then again if you don't have any of the "premium" WRX stuff it might be alright. The better the built in stuff, the harder it is to actually replace it.
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Oct 13, 2015 21:44
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si posted:You can do it, but it's a pain in the rear end and requires a bunch of kludgey bits to integrate the wheel controls and such. Has it changed beyond just needing a steering wheel control module to use the oem wheel controls with an aftermarket head unit? I've only installed two, with the last being sometime in '13, and it was fairly simple and straightforward.
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Oct 14, 2015 01:00
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McSpatula posted:Has it changed beyond just needing a steering wheel control module to use the oem wheel controls with an aftermarket head unit? I've only installed two, with the last being sometime in '13, and it was fairly simple and straightforward. Last one I worked on had a 'premium' system which had an extra separate amp and sub which had magickal harnesses that weren't quite powered or line level. Also the head units were not DIN sized, so when you put a standard 2DIN in it had an ugly gap around it. I don't know if these things have changed/etc. By now hopefully Crutchfield has some drop in stuff.
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Oct 14, 2015 01:04
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I just went in tonight and ordered a WRX. Mid-January ETA, but they said they have been coming in early and it might be here early December. Kinda excited.
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Oct 14, 2015 02:50
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Commodore_64 posted:Went to change the oil for the second time ever on my new to me 99 Forester. Guess I wasn't really thinking, didn't take off the splash shield, and got the drat front diff plug. I put nice new synthetic gear oil in there when I first got the car, it was pretty much pristine. "Hrrrrmmmm, 21mm, that seems a bit big. No worries. Oh man, that oil is way too clean for 7000 miles... gently caress" - An idiot. Hey at least you figured it out before driving the car off with the oil coming out the dipstick tube and no gear oil, right? In other old Subaru dumb poo poo, what do you guys think time for new shifter bushings? http://gfycat.com/GraveClumsyJoey That's in 1st gear.
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Oct 14, 2015 04:13
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I'd take a look at the retaining bolt on the trans side of things, just to make sure everything's still tightened to spec; I had mine back out entirely after doing a 6spd swap, leading me to think I broke the linkage while hooning in the canyons. It had enough side to side flop-slop, it could've passed as a dildo for a shifter.
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Oct 14, 2015 05:55
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Probably the bushings in the u-joint thing. You can drill out the rivet, replace the bushings, and then use an OEM bolt. I have a pretty strong suspicion the tic bushings for pre-04 will work but I haven't tried it.
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Oct 14, 2015 06:12
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Petite Dinklage posted:I just went in tonight and ordered a WRX. Mid-January ETA, but they said they have been coming in early and it might be here early December. What trim? Either way, you're going to love it. I loving love driving my Limited.
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Oct 14, 2015 06:49
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si posted:You can do it, but it's a pain in the rear end and requires a bunch of kludgey bits to integrate the wheel controls and such. Atleast before they got wheel controls, headunit changes were incredibly easy. Not including time taken to solder the plugs, it can be done in under 5 minutes.
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Oct 14, 2015 06:53
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jamal posted:Probably the bushings in the u-joint thing. You can drill out the rivet, replace the bushings, and then use an OEM bolt. I have a pretty strong suspicion the tic bushings for pre-04 will work but I haven't tried it. Thanks, I'll give that a shot. Everything in there hasn't been touched since 1999. Can it be done without moving the transmission? I do have very long skinny arms. edit: just double checking, this is the u-joint you're talking about yeah?  Also there's generally a ton of slop in the driveline that makes it surge when you let off the throttle suddenly in 1st/2nd gear, transmission/motor mounts? Hugh G. Rectum fucked around with this message at 07:50 on Oct 14, 2015 |
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Oct 14, 2015 07:43
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Yeah that's the one. You can buy a new oem one (it has to have that tab for the return spring), or you can try to put bushings in it yourself. Looking at the TIC bushings I think these have the best chance of fitting: http://turninconcepts.com/driveline/tic-06-subaru-shift-linkage-bushings.html But I couldn't say for sure. I should probably ask them to send me a set to try before I start telling people to do that. You do have to get the trans x-member off and get some other shifter parts out of the way. Would be worth it to do the other bushings while you're at it, and a trans mount would also be easy. Motor mounts are still a pain in the rear end though.
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Oct 14, 2015 08:32
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Interesting, I was looking at this part: http://turninconcepts.com/tic-5mt-linkage-update.html which has a fun fact on the page:quote:This linkage update is for the pre-2006 Subaru 5MT that DO NOT have the external return spring. Subaru stopped using the external return spring sometime in 1998. If you are unsure please look at your linkage under the car to check. It's a 98 which has a bunch of random 99 parts on it as well since it was one of the last 98s made or something. Looking in the Haynes guide I've got the joint does not have the external return spring so who the gently caress knows. Time to get out the flashlight I guess. $50 is a big difference but it might be worth it to not have to drill out a rivet and press in bushings for me. Hugh G. Rectum fucked around with this message at 09:03 on Oct 14, 2015 |
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Oct 14, 2015 09:01
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:What trim? Either way, you're going to love it. I loving love driving my Limited. Limited with navigation. Big upgrade from my 2005 Mazda 3, which I love to death
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Oct 14, 2015 13:55
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The drilling out isn't that big of a deal. You will have to drop your exhaust and punch out two roll pins. You will want proper sized punches, if you use a screwdriver or the wrong sized punch congratulations it is stuck in there forever. Punch out the pin on the shift rod and slide the old linkage off. Rebuild it or replace it. While your in there do the front shift stay bushing because it's cheap and easy. The rear is a PITA and isn't necessary but it helps.
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Oct 14, 2015 14:01
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Also if you use the Kartboy part for the rear make absolutely sure the fasteners thread in by hand before hitting them wth a ratchet. The bracket doesn't sit flush against the tunnel and if you try to make it do so, you will cross thread at least one of the bolts and have a really bad day.
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Oct 14, 2015 14:23
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Also if you use the Kartboy part for the rear make absolutely sure the fasteners thread in by hand before hitting them wth a ratchet. The bracket doesn't sit flush against the tunnel and if you try to make it do so, you will cross thread at least one of the bolts and have a really bad day. I've always had issues with getting the rear bushing in. I end up heating up the part so the rubber flexes easier and start the threads by hand and make absotutley sure they're going in smooth before sending them home.
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Oct 14, 2015 14:26
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Sudo Echo posted:Hey at least you figured it out before driving the car off with the oil coming out the dipstick tube and no gear oil, right? Yup, I took the guard off to grab the filter more easily and saw the actual oil pan. My brother kindly picked up some more gear oil for me on his way home from work. It's all buttoned up and making happy tractor/Subaru noises. Edit- It sure seems to be leaking a lot of oil around the front of the engine. The oil filter pedestal was absolutely caked in grime. It looks like a cam sender of some sort is the culprit on the drivers side, but the passenger is less obvious. Probably the cam seals, I would think, despite the magic marker on the radiator support claiming they were both done when the timing belt was about 50k ago. I guess it's about time for a timing belt job anyway, right? Commodore_64 fucked around with this message at 15:52 on Oct 14, 2015 |
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Oct 14, 2015 15:44
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