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wormil posted:Best way: Oh, that's clever. Gonna have to try building something like that once I have room to work again.
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Oct 13, 2015 03:09
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Thirding the suggestion to use a circular saw. Honestly unless you have a panel truck or whatever it's called for your table saw, I'd have trouble seeing a table saw being safer than a circular saw for cutting a full-size 4'x8' sheet, just because moving the sheet through the saw would be so awkward. Deedle posted:Have the lumberyard cut things to size on their huge panel saw. That way you can stay well away from the saw. Thanks; bought a 4" circular saw.
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Oct 13, 2015 13:01
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A bloke over on the reddit wood thing posted a reminder that hand tools are just as dangerous when you're not paying attention https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/comments/3ogmxk/psa_hand_tools_are_dangerous_too_i_made_a_huge/
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Oct 13, 2015 22:48
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MrPete posted:A bloke over on the reddit wood thing posted a reminder that hand tools are just as dangerous when you're not paying attention I've never cut myself with a power tool, but I manage to bang myself up with hand tools all the drat time. Never as bad as that guy, thankfully. Chisels are sharp!
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Oct 13, 2015 23:10
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MrPete posted:A bloke over on the reddit wood thing posted a reminder that hand tools are just as dangerous when you're not paying attention Never don't keep pointy and sharp bits at your body Always keep pointy pointed away.
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Oct 13, 2015 23:11
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tater_salad posted:Never don't keep pointy and sharp bits at your body Cut towards your chum, not your thumb.
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Oct 13, 2015 23:14
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tater_salad posted:Never don't keep pointy and sharp bits at your body For serious. Also, take it from me: whatever you're doing with a chisel, use loving clamps to hold your workpiece down. Not your off-hand. I was very fortunate in just slicing a flap of skin of the outside of the heel of my off-hand, but it could have gone SO much worse. And yeah, I find on balance that I'm much more likely to be careless with hand tools, power tools still terrify me just a little bit. E: though how the poo poo he managed to gouge a hole down the middle of his forearm I don't quite understand. It must have been a WILDLY unsafe working practice somehow.
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Oct 13, 2015 23:17
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MrPete posted:A bloke over on the reddit wood thing posted a reminder that hand tools are just as dangerous when you're not paying attention I have a 1/2" scar on my thumb from, of all things, a putty knife I was using to scrape glue off a floor. poo poo doesn't even have to be all that sharp to cut all the way to bone.
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Oct 13, 2015 23:27
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thespaceinvader posted:For serious. Yeah I tend to forget this depending on what I'm doing.. I'd I just want to square up a router mortise or drilled hole (really any straight up and down) I'm usually dumb and don't use a clamp. If I'm doing anything that involves sliding it's clamps. I will say I need to be better about holding work pieces in the drill press with not my hands.
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Oct 13, 2015 23:56
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thespaceinvader posted:For serious. I managed to put my chisel in my arm at pretty much the exact same spot as him. I didn't take pictures though. I was trying to clean up on something that didn't quiet fit after I had just done all the heavy cutting and just didn't bother to clamp it because I was in a hurry and the piece sort of spun in place then fractured in half and the chisel came straight through it into my arm all before I could really process what was happening. I got extremely lucky that the chisel was sideways and passed between the 2 bones in my forearm without cutting any tendons but I still had to have my forearm immobilized for a while because wrist movement would tear the stitches. Trying to save 2 minutes cost me months of time and remains one of my most visible lessons learned to date.
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Oct 14, 2015 03:22
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I nick my fingers every once in a while and it always sucks. Nothing serious though. Once, I just finished sharpening a heavy plane iron. 1/4" thick SOB. Put it in a home made plane and lifted it up to eye level to adjust it. The iron slipped out of the plane, cut though my heavy canvas pants, through my boxers, and just slightly cut my leg. Luckily!!! It landed on the padded mats and I didn't have to resharpen!
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Oct 14, 2015 04:13
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My worst injury to date, a smashed thumb, happened at the drill press; and I even had the work clamped to the table. I've slipped using a chisel and cut my fingers to the bone a few times.
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Oct 14, 2015 04:26
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Now that we're on the topic, do y'all have videos to demonstrate proper chisel technique with lathes? Also care and sharpening; I bought the cheapest set on Amazon and it has not rained here in 100 days, they've been inside a cardboard box in the garage, and they're thoroughly oxidized. I use a 4" half-cylinder stone to sharpen, and it seems to do well but I'm pretty sure my technique could use some work/I wouldn't trust myself on better equipment. I almost prefer this to buying the good $70 set but loving them up in the process of learning.
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Oct 14, 2015 07:35
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Look up Brendan Stemp on YouTube. He has a bunch of videos that helped me, especially his skew chisel ones. Get a grinder for sharpening chisels. They go blunt too quickly to bother with using a stone. I went and spent a few bucks to get a sharpening jig, and love it. A minute or two and the chisel is sharp and I'm back to turning.
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Oct 14, 2015 08:11
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tater_salad posted:Never don't keep pointy and sharp bits at your body I bought a set of Ashley Isles carving chisels on closeout years ago, thought it would be cool to learn. I was leaning on one trying to clean out a cut and next thing I had 2 neat slices above and below my navel...right through the hoodie and shirt. Lemme tellya a belly wound does not take bandaids well. I sold the chisels to another woodworker the next day for half what I'd paid...then regret set in
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Oct 14, 2015 12:52
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My worst injury recently was on my ring finger knuckle that I sliced open and bled like a pig from, and that was from cleaning the sauna. The loving grille on the heater is sharp. I still have a huge bump on the knuckle and it was only recently I was able to remove my ring.
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Oct 14, 2015 13:11
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I don't think my hands are ever free of nicks and cuts from hand tools, and I know I've been lucky that some of them weren't way worse. I constantly try to remind myself to make sure the direction of force is away from my body and no other body part is in the way, but alas, it still happens. I really need a proper vice setup, that would make things so much easier and safer. My last one that really hurt was with a chisel, but I don't really remember what I was trying to do. Basically the blade hit the front of my thumb and dug about 1/8" into my thumbnail, giving me a nice vertical cut on my thumb as well. A little lower and it would have missed my thumbnail and I would have split my thumb in half, at least until it hit the bone. I was using my thumb as a guide to start a saw cut the other night, it skipped and I gave myself a nice serrated cut down the side of my thumb. Didn't bleed nearly as much as a chisel cut, but poo poo did it hurt after a few minutes. The day I start carving is the day I buy stock in band-aid.
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Oct 14, 2015 13:30
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Quick question about finishing. I did a small walnut project that i really want to bring the most of finish wise. The flip side though is that it's going to be used quite a bit, so i also want to finish to be as durable as possible. I have a bunch of oil base semi-gloss and satin poly leftover from when I did my stairs, i know that's a durable option but i'm wondering if it'll bring the most aesthetically out of the walnut. Is there such a thing as laying down some danish or tung oil first, and then polying over that?
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Oct 14, 2015 17:38
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Aliquid posted:Now that we're on the topic, do y'all have videos to demonstrate proper chisel technique with lathes? List: http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/2014/03/learning-to-turn-on-youtube.html Also, did you guys see the armillary by Carl Jacobson, I really want to make one. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Htxkt5GdapA
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Oct 14, 2015 17:49
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I've nicked myself a few times with a chisel, thankfully nothing too bad and nothing before I started sharpening them on the jig that I have for kitchen knives (which works really well, but is awkward as hell to maintain an angle on with the chisels). I did manage to get myself with a kitchen knife all the way to the bone of my finger and caused my first ever seizure. Maybe the jig works too well in some instances. I really need a good work bench/more clamps. Both, really. Speaking of work benches, what sort of general design(s) do you guys recommend. I saw that the height should be ~wrist height for planing purposes, ~24 inches in depth, but what about other dimensions and the general configuration?
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Oct 14, 2015 21:22
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Olothreutes posted:I've nicked myself a few times with a chisel, thankfully nothing too bad and nothing before I started sharpening them on the jig that I have for kitchen knives (which works really well, but is awkward as hell to maintain an angle on with the chisels). I did manage to get myself with a kitchen knife all the way to the bone of my finger and caused my first ever seizure. Maybe the jig works too well in some instances. I really need a good work bench/more clamps. Both, really.  wormil posted:List: I can feel my throat swell just watching all that walnut dust. that is a gorgeous piece.
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Oct 15, 2015 05:20
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Hello woodworking thread. I'm just getting into the hobby more seriously after building a few bits and pieces in the past (coffee table, dining table, TV cabinet) and having done a short intro course at the local trade school. I'm in the process of kitting out a workshop, and picked up a nice table saw/buzzer combo. However the table saw which is a much older model doesn't come with a riving knife, and I can't find anywhere that sells them or even ships them to New Zealand at any kind of reasonable price. As a woodworking newbie I'm deathly terrified of kickback hurling wood into my eyes/throat/chest/internal organs/etc and wondered if anyone knows anywhere to get a riving knife at a reasonable price and that would ship outside of the EU/US?
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Oct 15, 2015 05:38
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Dominoes posted:Thanks; bought a 4" circular saw.
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Oct 15, 2015 09:58
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Kerro posted:As a woodworking newbie I'm deathly terrified of kickback hurling wood into my eyes/throat/chest/internal organs/etc and wondered if anyone knows anywhere to get a riving knife at a reasonable price and that would ship outside of the EU/US? You might try buying a microjig splitter for the saw, I've heard they're a good upgrade for older machines. If your saw has the capability for a riving knife you might be able to just make one out of some aluminium or steel sheet and a hacksaw. Dominoes posted:Follow-up: What's the best way to use the saw, in terms of a surface to work on where the blades can sink below the work piece? A setup with a pair of 2x4s on the ground, and a flat/thin piece of wood on top as a table?
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Oct 15, 2015 11:38
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Dominoes posted:Follow-up: What's the best way to use the saw, in terms of a surface to work on where the blades can sink below the work piece? A setup with a pair of 2x4s on the ground, and a flat/thin piece of wood on top as a table? I did basically this for cutting the plywood to build my workshop, except I used more 2x4s and no "table". You want to be certain that as you cut, the piece either doesn't move or falls away from the blade (i.e. the end of the piece close to the blade moves upwards, not downwards). Otherwise the blade can bind. If you only use two 2x4s then you probably don't have enough support, even with the "table" top (which could flex). Anyway, I wouldn't characterize this setup as the "best", if for no other reason than that you generally don't want to be working directly on the floor (ow, my back). But it does work and requires minimal setup.
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Oct 15, 2015 14:43
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Dominoes posted:Follow-up: What's the best way to use the saw, in terms of a surface to work on where the blades can sink below the work piece? A setup with a pair of 2x4s on the ground, and a flat/thin piece of wood on top as a table? Cakefool posted:I did all my long plywood cuts on the driveway with a handheld circular saw, 4 2x2s underneath (2 each side of the cut) and one clamped on top as a guide. 2 minutes setup, 10 second cut, quite safe.
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Oct 15, 2015 16:20
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Thanks dudes! Simple and on the floor sounds like a plan.
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Oct 15, 2015 16:27
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Dominoes posted:Follow-up: What's the best way to use the saw, in terms of a surface to work on where the blades can sink below the work piece? A setup with a pair of 2x4s on the ground, and a flat/thin piece of wood on top as a table? Smaller sheets I clamp to the workmate leaving minimal gap for the saw blade. That way nothing but some sawdust can fall, minimizing the risk of binding the saw blade. If you have no alternative to using sawhorses or 2x4s, use 4 of them. A pair on either side of the cut. If you use sacrificial 2x4s, put them perpendicular to your cut line. Also there is no reason for the saw blade to protrude more than 1/4" beyond the work piece. I.e. my track is made of 9mm ply, so if I cut 18mm boards I set the saw for a 30mm cut. I could leave it at 66mm but why the hell would I want the blade to protrude 39mm on a cut that's only really 27mm deep?
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Oct 15, 2015 16:35
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Anyone know of a good way to cut out a 2inch(diameter) half circle on the end of a board? I bored 2inch holes halfway through a board, split it in half, then want to make slats that fit in to the half moon slots... I don't have anything that is exactly that shape to guide a router though. I made one by hand on the router, and that will do, but I need to make 20 or so of them and I was wondering if there was a better way. I basically want to invert a pattern... Figured there was a neat trick. 
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Oct 15, 2015 22:21
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Can you drill them out on a drill press?
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Oct 15, 2015 23:34
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bobua posted:Anyone know of a good way to cut out a 2inch(diameter) half circle on the end of a board? Do you have a router table or just a router? Because it seems like you could just do a couple passes over a roundover bit of the right radius using a miter sled set perpendicular to the fence of a router table. Edit: or just stack them up and gang-saw them to rough shape using a band saw, if you've got one, then just sand the whole stack down to final diameter.
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Oct 15, 2015 23:39
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bobua posted:Anyone know of a good way to cut out a 2inch(diameter) half circle on the end of a board?
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Oct 15, 2015 23:55
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MrPete posted:I've seen a lot of people use a piece of rigid foam insulation on the ground as a sacrificial cutting surface, might be worth a look. The advantage of a sheet of rigid foam over 2x4s or pallets is that it supports the edge, so you'll have a cleaner cut with less tearout.
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Oct 16, 2015 01:26
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Deedle posted:If you have a flush trim bit it's pretty simple. Make a half circle like you did before with radius 2"+ the diameter of your trim bit. Clamp some mdf over the semicircle, route it like you would any pattern. You now have a bit of mdf with a 2" round end that you can use as a pattern for your slats. This seems like the most exact way, does require that I make some sort of circle making jig for the router though. Really surprised there isn't a more clever way to do this:(
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Oct 16, 2015 01:31
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Kerro posted:As a woodworking newbie I'm deathly terrified of kickback hurling wood into my eyes/throat/chest/internal organs/etc and wondered if anyone knows anywhere to get a riving knife at a reasonable price and that would ship outside of the EU/US? Many older saws cannot be retrofitted with riving knives but you can use a splitter. We call them "accidents" but really it's cognitive dissonance between carelessness and the consequence. Injury is not inevitable, if you follow the rules for safely using your saw and avoid ripping green lumber, you'll be in good shape. Most importantly, never stand behind the blade while ripping and never put anything in the path of the blade that you want in one piece. I was taught to stand to the side when ripping so that if the board kicks, it will not hit me in the stomach, groin, or face. Going on 20 years I've been using a saw without a riving knife or splitter and no kickback. Don't get me wrong, if I could retrofit a riving knife I would, but that isn't an option and I love my table saw. The most common TS hazard over the years is pieces coming loose and flying backward, so wear safety glasses and don't stand behind the blade. Here is a more thorough list: https://www.tru.ca/hsafety/workinglearningsafely/work/tablesaw.html
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Oct 16, 2015 02:44
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My old-rear end saw (1965) has the blade tilt toward the fence. Doing a 45° bevel that way on a piece of poplar is the one time I got kickback. Had a nice little profile of the bevel in my chest for a few days, glad it wasn't any worse than that. Now I stand to the side, and if I need to do a bevel like that, I put the fence on the other side of the blade, even though it means less table and no measurement for the fence.
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Oct 16, 2015 02:48
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Sointenly posted:Quick question about finishing. I think the poly and oil based stuff won't mix well, so you have to pick one. The real solution is to check the finish you want to try on a scrap piece and see how it looks.
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Oct 16, 2015 04:42
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Kerro posted:Hello woodworking thread. I'm just getting into the hobby more seriously after building a few bits and pieces in the past (coffee table, dining table, TV cabinet) and having done a short intro course at the local trade school. I'm in the process of kitting out a workshop, and picked up a nice table saw/buzzer combo. However the table saw which is a much older model doesn't come with a riving knife, and I can't find anywhere that sells them or even ships them to New Zealand at any kind of reasonable price. As a woodworking newbie I'm deathly terrified of kickback hurling wood into my eyes/throat/chest/internal organs/etc and wondered if anyone knows anywhere to get a riving knife at a reasonable price and that would ship outside of the EU/US? If your model never had one you might have to do some home improvements, but riving knives in general seem to exist in New Zealand - http://www.carbatec.co.nz/powermatic-thin-kerf-riving-knife-to-suit-pm2000_c22651 Without knowing the model its hard to say if it exists specifically for you?
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Oct 16, 2015 04:44
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I knocked together some 'rustic' display boxes for my wifes market stalls from standard pine and she wanted dark shaded finish on them. Instead of faffing around with conditioner, etc, I decided to use gel stain (Varathane) and man, is that poo poo easy to use or what?. Sure, it's not very authentic and it'll need a layer of poly as any dings/scrapes will show the original colour, but for once it was literally wipe-on/wipe-off/done. This was just on a test box, but I'll post some pictures once I get the proper ones done.
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Oct 16, 2015 07:39
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MrPete posted:You might try buying a microjig splitter for the saw, I've heard they're a good upgrade for older machines. If your saw has the capability for a riving knife you might be able to just make one out of some aluminium or steel sheet and a hacksaw. Interesting - it's a pretty old saw, but it does have space for bolting on something behind the blade (I'm guessing given the age it was probably a guard of some kind rather than a riving knife but I really don't know). The microjig splitter sounds like an option if I can't find something else to suit. wormil posted:Many older saws cannot be retrofitted with riving knives but you can use a splitter. We call them "accidents" but really it's cognitive dissonance between carelessness and the consequence. Injury is not inevitable, if you follow the rules for safely using your saw and avoid ripping green lumber, you'll be in good shape. Most importantly, never stand behind the blade while ripping and never put anything in the path of the blade that you want in one piece. I was taught to stand to the side when ripping so that if the board kicks, it will not hit me in the stomach, groin, or face. Going on 20 years I've been using a saw without a riving knife or splitter and no kickback. Don't get me wrong, if I could retrofit a riving knife I would, but that isn't an option and I love my table saw. The most common TS hazard over the years is pieces coming loose and flying backward, so wear safety glasses and don't stand behind the blade. Thanks, that's very helpful. I'll mostly be working with recycled rimu (a moderate density NZ softwood, I have no idea what an equivalent would be in the US) so certainly nothing green but the recycled stuff can have splits which made me wonder if getting a knife and/or guard might not be a bad idea. Standing clear of the saw blade and wearing appropriate protection seems like a very good start though. Sylink posted:If your model never had one you might have to do some home improvements, but riving knives in general seem to exist in New Zealand - http://www.carbatec.co.nz/powermatic-thin-kerf-riving-knife-to-suit-pm2000_c22651 Oh sweet, not sure how I missed that. I don't know if they would suit my saw either, if I want to go that route I'll probably need to contact them and ask them.
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Oct 16, 2015 10:26
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